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SWATCHman

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  1. Hi, the dial of the PAMs tend to move a little bit, when you bang your watch accidentally against another object. In this case, the dial presses against the pinion of the seconds. This stops the movement alltogether. I had several goes with my local watch smith fixing this glitch. Ultimately he glued the dial to the movement in oder to secure it in place. I'd suggest you have a watch smith look at it. Cheaper and less nerve wrecking than sending it back...
  2. After having a real close look at the gen, I took the time to update and more importantly rectify some earlier statements. Hope this helps members who are considering this their next purchase...
  3. Don't get me wrong, I really love Sinn but this sucker is 18mm (!!) high. It looks ridiculous! No wonder it works up to a depth of 1,000 meters. It will drag you under water like a lead belt.
  4. Introduction UPDATED PASSAGES IN THIS UGLY COLOR I odered this watch from Silix a couple of days ago. I guess it's not different from the ones the other dealers sell. I made a few pictures to show you the good and the bad of this rep. Firstly the overall impression of the Sport Chrono is quite nice. Subtle AR coating on the crystal, nice dial with a distinguished style. Nice tight bezel with crisp print. The chrono works flawlessly but the pusher at 2 o'clock is pretty tight, so have to push it like hell to start the chrono function. The reset pusher is similarly stiff. So once you succeed to push it, it kind of slams the hands back to their starting position. Im curious how long the center seconds hand will take this kind of abuse. Quality of movement assembly seems ok to me. The winding mechanism detaches nicely when the crown is screwed down. Setting the time feels a little bit stiff, but a lot better than the wobbly feel of my Tag Aquaracer. Winding is ok as well. Now for the Pictures As you can see the dial layout is scaringly accurate. The Seconds hand is as long as the gen, nearly touching the rehaut. Minutes and hour hands are perfect in length as well. The Hour hand on the gen may be a tad fatter, but not by much. The surface has a strange sheen though. Looks a little bit like cheap plastic. AS A MATTER OF FACT THE GEN HAS AN IDENTICAL DIAL FINISH. THEY HAVE IT ON DISPLAY AT OUR AIRPORT WITH A LOUPE INSTALLED TO SLIDE OVER THE DIFFERENT MODELS. SO I HAD A CHANCE TO TAKE A REALLY CLOSE LOOK THE OTHER DAY. IT LOOK EXACTLY THE SAME 10 OUT OF 10. I could not find any large pictures of the gen for comparision, but I will take a trip to the mall on the weekend to compare it with the real thing. The print on the dial is really good. Everything is where ist should be. The markers are positioned perfectly as well. All subdials are correct too. The bezel print is a real kicker. It is flawless compared to the gen. THE LUMINOUS DOT AT 12 IS TOO BIG THOUGH PLUS IT IS NOT LUMINOUS. Two things are clearly off: Firstly the the date font is incorrect. But you would need to compare it side by side to notice. Secondly the the circular indent in the center of the dial is extremely shallow. WRONG AGAIN, IT IS EXACTLY THE SAME 10 OUT OF 10 ONCE MORE. SAME SHALLOWNESS AS THE GEN. I would give the dial 5 out of 5 points. The lume is clearly above average on this rep. Initially it glows like hell. But compared to Superluminova it fades pretty fast and does not last all night. THE LUME IS ALSO GREENISH ON THE REP. ON THE GEN IT IS PURE WHITE. Markers and hands have the same color and intensity, another plus. The lume is applied somewhat unevenly compared to the gen. I guess it is tricky with this watch, since the lume is extremely pointed towards the center of the dial. There is noteable quality difference when compared to the gen. Lume and lume application gets 3 out of 5 points. The date magnification seems to be off as well. The mag lens is on the inside of the crystal, unlike with Rolexes. The placement is fine, but the magnification seems to be higher on the gen. Not terribly but noticeably. The date gets 3 out of 5 points. The engravings are very good on this rep. Both on the case and on the caseback. But the edges are not polished so they are pretty sharp. You can't see it but you can feel it. But compared to the razor sharpness of i.e. the IWC Ingeneur engravings, the Montblanc is considerably better. Engravings get 4 out of 5 Points in my book The overall finish of the case looks very good. No sharp edges, chrono pushers look perfect. The growngurads are great too. The crown feels feels smooth, it has obviously been polished. The lugs are a perfect fit with the bracelet. No visible gaps, great. The Montblanc logo on the crown is a little bit off center and there is a small irregular gap beween logo and the rim of the crown. But this is hardly noticeable. The Case gets full 5 out of 5 points. The only real turnoff is the bracelet. There are numerous flaws, the biggest of them being a general razor edginess. It has the silky smotheness of tank tracks, both on the inside and the outside. All sharp edges are acceissable, so the problem can be resolved with filing and sanding, but it's a lot of filing and sanding since the sharp edges are countless. What looks like small screws are in fact pins. My watch smith claims the gen has screws, but I'll have to check that at the mall as well. The Montblanc trademark at the first link of the bracelet is not ingraved but inserted into into the link, probably glued. On my bracelet it does not sit level but crocked adding yet another sharp edge to the lot. The double folding clasp works nicely, but the the filing marks on the sides are too visible for my taste. Again bad finish. MEANWHILE I SANDED THE BRACELET. IT STILL HASN'T THE GEN FEEL TO IT, BUT IT'S COMFORTABLE NOW AND THOUGH IT STILL DOES NOT FEEL QUITE RIGHT, IT LOOKS VERY ACCURATE ON THE WRIST. The bracelet gets a 2 out of 5 due to a severe lack of finish. Apart from the bracelet the Montblanc Sport Chrono is a pretty great rep. It is prove that there are great reps outside the Panerai, Rolex, IWC and Breitling Omega circle. If this watch was an Omega, it would be labelled "ultimate". But most importantly it looks great on the wrist. THIS WATCH HAS ACTUALLY BECOME ONE OF MY FAVORITES. THE FLAWS ARE QUITE MINIMAL AND EVEN WATCH EXPERTS WOULD NOT BE ABLE TO SPOT THIS WATCH AS A REP, UNLESS YOU LET THEM TOUCH THE BRACELET THAT IS. THE DESIGN IS CLASSY, YET SUBSTANTIAL. IT IS DECORATIVE BUT NOT BLINGY. LIKE THE MONTBLANC PENS IT HAS CHARACTER AND STYLE. NOT A "MUST HAVE" BUT CERTAINLY A "NICE TO HAVE".
  5. A pic of theh gen should illustrate the definition of "butt ugly" in Wikipedia. And a pic of the rep should be used to demonstrate what a blind man create from a piece of stainless steel with his hands tied behind his back. This piece of crap gives replicas a bad name...
  6. I think the Montblanc Sports Chrono is a seriously cool watch. But so far I have not seen any reviews on it. So whoever got it, please share your experience.
  7. I was looking for Joshuas website today, no luck. Did he change domains?
  8. The Meistersinger should be easy to replicate - no lume - Unitas movement - only one hand The Sinn U1 is a seriously cool watch, too cheap they say. - case made from U-Boat steel - filled with silicone oil to waterproof it practically without limit - glib German design
  9. If you look at the last two pics, the gap is pretty much removed. Had to do some additional sanding to achieve this...still not perfect, but hey I'm still young, lots of time to take care of this.
  10. Yes it does. My lever was totally too loose. It was just flopping around. Now it stays in any position I leave it. Did the same md to my 111H. Had to hold it by the lever when sanding and filing crown guard an pin into the right shape. Still nice and tight, so far no wear at all. And even if it wears out after some time, reheat it and it will be like new...
  11. I just experimented with filing it down a little bit, then I use 600 grid paper and drysanded it a bit. But is was already 2 in the morning and I just wanted to be done with it. I had just spent the previous hour finding one of the screws that fell into my rather deep carpet. I did my wifes 217 yesterday, the results can be seen in the modding section. That went better. But still room for improvement. I guess you sanded crown and pin together, right?
  12. This mod is extremely simple, effective and very durable: I read about different methods of modding the PAM lever in order to make it nice and tight. There are two techniques around. One requires cable insulation to fill the gap between pin and lever, another one employs silicone for the same purpose. The more sophisticated solution is the cable insulation, the quick fix is the Silicone variant. I did not have cable in the right diameter and I was not to crazy about the silicone option either. So while agreeing on the general principle of filling the space around the pin to tightn it, I did not like the means. So based on the general idea of the existing techniques I thought about alternatives that do not require materials with a certain diameter require as little fumbling around witht the lever pin as possible in order to keep it from disappearing don't require any wait (like the Silicone overnight option), cutting down on time in which screw an pin can get lost is very easy to apply and does not require special skills can easily renewed after wear and tear has loosened the lever again hot glue adhesive, which is readily available in most households. Tools required: a pistol for hot glue adhesive a screw driver to loosen the crown screws a pin removal tool or small drill a small hammer Step one: Fire up the glue pistol. Step two: Detach crownguard from your pam and safely store the screws away. Step three: Put the crownguard bottom up on a piece of soft wood. Use the pin removal tool or small drill to dislodge the pin from the crownguard. Be careful not to loose it once you pushed it out. The result should look like this. Step four: Place the lever on a table. The hole for the pin needs to be vertical. Then place the tip of the glue pistol on top of the lever without squeezing out any glue. Now the lever is slowly heated up by the glue pistol. Step five: Once the lever is really hot apply glue to the pin hole in the lever until it comes out on the opposite side of the lever. Then let the lever cool for 5 minutes. Step six: Remove excess glue, your fingernails should do the trick. Step seven Place the lever back in the crown guard and reinsert the pin just a tiny bit (1mm). Step eight: Put the glue pistol on top of the pin and wait until it picks up the heat. After a while, it will just sink into the crownguard until it is all the way through the lever. Stop pushing when the pin is still sticking out 2mm. Step nine (optional): If you want the pin to sit flush with the surface of the crownguard, now is a good moment to file or sand the top of the pin to a smooth flat finish. Flat surface after filing and sanding. Step ten: Place the tip of the glue pistol over the pin and heat up both pin and crownguard. This takes a couple of minutes. Step eleven: Gently push the pin down. If you want it to sit flush with the surface a hard piece of wood will do. If the pin is supposed to be sunken, the pin removal tool or small drill will do. Step twelve: Remove excess glue with your fingernails or with some solvent. Step thirteen: Re-attach the crownguard to the watch and enjoy the great new experience of opening and closing a tight lever. And now the best thing for last. Should the lever ever become loose again (the glue will definitely outlast any silicone though), just use the glue gun again to reheat the lever. You don't even need to disassemble the crownguard this time around. Just press the pistol on the crownguard for 2 minutes. The glue will melt again and settle tightly around the pin. Once it has cooled off, you're good to go for another couple of months. You can repeat this indefinitely, one application should last the lifetime of the watch. .
  13. Doing a much better job than I did. The lever pin looks absolutely perfect. I will probably have another go at mine, but the hole is not drilled as well as on yours. So there is a sunken part just below the pin on the crown guard. Thanks for sharing!!
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