Winston_Wolf

Thanks, and I will! I'm pretty intrigued myself...

THANK YOU! That's exactly what I'm looking for! Any chance you might shoot me the vendor's info via PM, if you don't want to post it?

Thanks for the advice! I've read By-Tor's guide many, many times and it has helped me a great deal. In fact, it's much of the reason I have a UPO now because I couldn't let such a great rep that came SO highly recommended go unbought. I also have to be honest, I really hadn't noticed the differences in the Seamaster dials until about a week ago. But like many other "little" flaws, once you notice, it's all you look at. I went back and checked all of the vendors I'm currently familiar with and came up short, which is why I posted this. I thought there either had to be a source I'm not aware of or someone knows WHY this particular detail isn't currently being replicated.

Hi guys, I'm kinda new to collecting replica watches, but through James Bond I've certainly caught the bug. My first watch was a SMP GMT, getting as close as I could to the Bond Seamaster while staying in my price range. Not long after getting the SMP, after not caring for it much at first I later realized my life wouldn't be complete without a Planet Ocean, so that's my most recent conquest. But I'm still thinking I'll eventually need the correct Bond Seamaster, but after looking closely at all the replica versions *I'm* aware of, I still haven't found any that actually replicate the correct Bond Seamaster. So my question is, are there any available, and if so, where should I look? Thanks! Just to be clear I

Cool that's what I figured. Thanks again for all of your help!

That was actually my next question...Where would be a "safe" place to get the movement switched out? Obviously NOT an Omega dealer, but is this something I should ask about in person before just taking the watch in cold to have the switch made?

Thank you for the help Andy! I can certainly handle paying $20 for a movement, though I'm sure shipping will probably double that price. As for the Planet Ocean... You're TOTALLY right!

Well, I looked back at some of my earliest attempts at watch photos, and I'm clearly in your "target audience." Thanks for the tips. The makeshift lightbox idea was especially helpful.

Just wanted to say thanks for the tips! I'm trying them now on some of my pics and they're working great!

Well, I got into collecting watches through James Bond, so I'll probably stick to the Bond-type Omegas for now, but who knows for sure? I thought the SMP was going to be enough but after seeing how good the Planet Oceans are I had to have one of those too... I got the back off of the SMP, so here's a look:

Yeah, for that kind of money I'd go ahead and get a genuine PO.

Thanks for the advice, guys! If I can get the back open I'll post a pic of the movement, but it might be a better choice to just get another watch in the long run...

First off, what a cool present! I've just recently got into replica watches, and in the last couple months I've purchased a Seamaster GMT with the Asian 21J, a 45mm Planet Ocean with the Asian 21J and finally a Ultimate Planet Ocean with the ETA movement. Cosmetically the Seamaster GMT is a great watch, hefty and solid, but the movement in mine went screwy after about three weeks. The Planet Ocean with the Asian movement has been running perfectly accurate for me, but the fit and finish leave a little to be desired. Mine isn't the "UPO Lite" and isn't quite as accurate compared to the UPO. It's still a great watch, especially for what I paid for it. The UPO is my newest and it is a great watch. As soon as I took it out of the box I knew exactly where the extra cost went. Hefty, solid, and very impressive. Great looking and feeling and a very classy watch. All in all, I think you get what you pay for in either watch, it comes down to what you're really wanting to spend.

Hello! A while back I purchased an Omega Seamaster GMT with the Asian 21J movement. Not long after buying it the hour hand and GMT hand went screwy so that the GMT hand no longer tracks accurately and the hour hand is loose enough to change position whenever you tap on the case of the watch. I suppose my two options are to have the movement repaired, or replaced. I'm leaning towards buying an ETA movement but I'm too new to watches to know how easy that would be. Can I just get an ETA 2824 and have a watchsmith just switch them out? Are their complications involving the GMT hand? Does the movement itself need to be modified to run the GMT hand? Is this something I can get done locally with getting too many suspect looks? Thanks in advance!