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  1. My silix arrived last week, I wore it for a few days and when the weekend arrived I couldn't resist, I had to build what I've been waiting for for about a year. before- dial and hands ageing, case and crown ageing and reshape. Finished- with a Clark tropic-19 sanded slightly lower and added. and with it's little sister Wristy Cornholio lume shot.
  2. Here's a dial on the bay that I am thinking about buying http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-dial-for-steel-or-white-gold-Rolex-Submariner-/331034919809?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d13380381 I need to know; would this fit the Noob V2 SubC or BP ? Also, I don't have a watch-maker so who should I go to to put this together with the Sub i end up buying? (i.e i live in NY) How much would it cost to pay someone for replacing a dial with this? THANKS
  3. The 5513 was produced for around thirty years. Over that time, it saw many dial variations. I would appreciate your help deciding which one to match to this case. It's a gen midcase with serial number removed. Based on its thin profile and original tube, a 24-7000, I would date it to the mid-to-late 60's. Do you agree? A 700 crown screws down perfectly. What dial(s) are correct for it? Thanks!
  4. Hi all, I have an ultimate version of the deep sea dweller with 2836 movement that I got from perfect clones about 2 months ago. I've worn it maybe 10 times. I just shook my wrist and the bezel insert fell off without provocation. Anyone ever have an issue with that before? If I get a replacement insert will it fit and if so how do I secure it to the bezel? Thanks E
  5. The Topic does not lie! I just made my first purchase with TrustyTime. After speaking to Andrew for a good amount of time, a lot of research and a feel for one watch, I finally sealed the deal. The watch: Ulysse Nardin Black Sea Marine Chronometer 263-92-3C (Red Markers) Picture will be posted below. I will also update this thread as much as I can, including when the package arrives and my notes on it. May even upload a video and some modding? My question is, since I know a lot of people here have good faith in TrustyTime, what was the first watch you bought from them? How long did it take for it to arrive? Upload your pics!!! Do you have a Ulysse Nardin? Upload picks i'd love to see it. Have you done any mods to your Ulysse Nardin? Upload pics & info - i'd love to read it! Also, if anyone can answer this question: From the date that Andrew gives me the tracking #, how long should it take to arrive to New York, USA? Thank guys looking forward to seeing your photos and comments below!
  6. Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum, I tried researching this subject but couldn't find an answer. I recently bought a DayDate II from Trusty Time and I'm having a little issue that I hope you guys can help with. When I first got the watch and set the time, day, and date, everything was fine and it was switching the day and date at midnight just fine. After not wearing it for about 4 days, I set the day and date, but now it won't switch day and date at midnight, it does so either at noon, or at 3pm. I've tried changing the day/date at noon and at midnight to maybe offset it, but no change. Is there a trick to this to make sure it changes day/date at or around midnight? Thanks in advance
  7. Hi all, I'm new to this, but I'm after a rolex sub 116610LN. Looking to spend $500 on one. Any ideas of where I can obtain the best possible on for this price?
  8. Hello all, this is my first post on the site! I have done some thorough searching before I came to the conclusion that I need to start a new topic. I don't really know how to use this forum yet but I am here to stay and learn, so please work with me! First off, I do have a few reps but they are all low-grade and worthless. Recently I came to the conclusion its best to pay good money for good quality. And thats what I need your help for. Searching through the forum, I found a lot of people talking about someone named 'Andrew' and a company named 'Trusty Time'. At first I was going to buy from 'James' who has a website that he promotes ww w . iparadisiac . co. I came to the conclusion he promoted crap quality watches compared to what reps are out there. So, I have been searching for Andrew, but found nothing but a bunch of people talking about purchasing products from him. I think he is connected to Trusty Time? And, I have been searching trusty time, I found ttw888 . com, trustytimewatches . com and yourtrustytime . info So, which one of these websites is the REAL trusty time? Or is trusty time just a user on this forum that has the best quality reps? Or is Andrew a seller from Trusty Time that sells to us on the forum. Basically, I don't want to buy from the wrong websites / person. So please if someone can help me make sure that I am buying from the right person and points me in the right direction, I would appreciate it so much. Also, if anyone knows a website or person that sells the best quality Ulysse Nardin watches, please tell me!!!! Thank you, all of you! Pay Homage. If any ADMIN sees this, please understand my reasoning for posing website links, for me it is just to clearly understand and let other have the most information needed to understand my situation. Thank you
  9. Took only 6 days after I approved the qc pics from tt to get here. Dial was crooked but easily fixed. Not terrible for a cheapy. What I can see and what I've learned here is that the rehaut engraving isn't supposed to be there on a 16710. The bracelet says 72200 and I believe if that's what style its supposed to be the clasp is also wrong and I don't think that bracelet ever came on a 16710. Anything else I'm missing? Its my first cheapy in about 10+ years. Definitely going to have to start a build now that I've got the watch bug again.
  10. Hey all, Having trouble locating a specific rep clasp. Anyone have anymore info on this/know where I could source one? See link: http://www.rwgforum....real-after-all/ According to Alligoat, these came on 2006 era DRSD's Any help would be greatly appreciated
  11. This has been 8 months in the making, not long by some standards on this forum I know, but the longest for me. I've had some great help along the way, special mentions to Mel, mark_midlands, Elias and 951MAX. The original inspiration came from the movement that I picked up late last year. I know it's not gen but it's a beautiful thing and I couldn't see it mounted in anything else. The case is River's 6154 with a lot of reshaping. Because the stem was 0.9 and I couldn't find a replacement I decided to replace River's crown and tube with one from Athaya (his new bronze 8mm would look amazing here but he doesn't have it in 0.9mm) I drilled out the hole for the tube and wanted to raise the tube away from the case and solder it up like the old Rlx's , after many failed attempts mark stepped in and did an amazing job at soldering for me. Never one to let it be and despite Marks amazing job, I had already ordered the 'correct' solder and decided to add to what Mark had done and sand it back. The dial is one of V's amazing Rol's that I have lightly aged, it is so stunning that I can't bring myself to go nuts with it. The movement is still a little vague, as far as I can make out it's Swiss made and branded Nacar, and all I can find reference to is Turkish railroad pocket watches. I gave it a clean and filled the engraved text with red acrylic, it's the most accurate movement I've owned. Hands are Adrians, I had a spare set of cali hands that I'd stripped off the blue and had been heat treating but I decided to 'borrow' a double pencil minute hand from another set and treat it the same, it's a combination of heat, then egg in a bag, then lumed with the good old stuff AKA cornholio, topped off with a faux CP The strap I made along with Elias's nickel vintage knife edge brass buckle. I wanted it to have some vintage Rol feel the way it is stitched and it is soft as butter. On to the pics, I just re-finished my 6152/1 with an LP dial and new hands so that's crept in to some of the shots too I had some issues with the movement slowing, i think screwing the crown down may have worn away some solder that got on to the thread, I filed down the stem a fraction at a time and it seems to have worked. The crown is not pressing the stem against the movement now and when it's screwed down everything ticks along nicely. Oh and I decided while it was off that I would 'bronze' the crown too.....just becuzzzz here are somenew pics.
  12. HI Everyone, I'm new here. I would like to ask forum members how to get in contact with Tony of asian7750.com because I'm interested in a watch listed on the website. I've tried many times to reach him by email with no success. Please if anyone knows how to get in contact with him, I would greatly appreciate it. By the way, what do you think about this watch as far as quality, etc? It's the SS Oyster Fluted White Sticks Asian 2813 21J Model: RX2508 Thanks, Andy
  13. It's been really lacking some Tudor action here for the last few weeks so I thought I'd share mine if you share yours too Currently in the box Sub to start Heritage Black Flake Blue Flake (snow for Nanuq) Now it's your turn
  14. This is the 4th version of TC 93250 bracelet. It's predecessor was TC 93250 V3. TC 93250 V4 is made by a different bracelet maker. The V3 bracelet maker refuses to make improvements on the V3 clasp coronet or place engravings in the SEL trench. To me, the V3 bracelet served as a good quality stainless steel bracelet. However, the coronet on the V3 clasp is the Achilles' heel because it is not as protruding as V2 clasp, which representing gen oyster clasps from 2002 to 2007, or is not as slim and crisp as gen oyster clasps from 2008 to 2010. Earlier this year I promised Janeto72 to persuade the V3 bracelet maker to make Janeto/TC 93253 bracelet for the two tone Submariner 16613. With the V3 maker reluctant to make further improvements, I had to seek alternative options/makers because making two tone bracelet requires even more accurate tooling and machining. Another reason being the V3 maker was reluctant to make any more counterfeit watch bracelets. I will try to debrief the atmosphere in China some time later. Let's just stick to the topic for now. Sifu L hooked me up with a reputable bracelet maker in Thailand. He vouched for me that I'm not some undercover agent from FHS (Federation de l'industrie horologere Suisse). Then the project 93250 V4 went on. TC 93250 V4 bracelet maker gave me a tour of his factory before I placed the order. I was quite satisfied with what I saw - a clean, organized manufacturing facility with seemingly civilized, Westernized administration, which translates to easier communication. Before my review, I want you to know the batch I received has some variance issues. Here's SSTEEL's review: My Interim Review of Ordering/Purchasing TC's Type II LV Sub. Here's the problem reported from HeuerTag and pbwatch on RG: Pictures: TC 93250 V4 bracelet. After reading the reported problems, I spent the whole weekend unpacking every piece of TC 93250 V4 I received and inspect each one of them. I did find variances and some I would categorize as defective units even by rep standard. To make sure TC 93250 V4 has the best fit with TC Sub case, I have to hand pick and match the bracelet to the case. Therefore I will no longer pass TC 93250 V4 to members as a stand alone part. SSTEEL reported TC 93250 V4 safety clasp edge being a little sharp. It is true. I checked my gen safety clasp and I confirm it is a gen feature. See how gen edge is polished to the point it begins to turn just mirror finish. Same with TC 93250 V4 safety clasp. If you are already accustomed to the modern super cased Submariner 116610 all rounded edges, just a tad sharp at the safety clasp is how classic Submariner 16610 really feels like. If you don't like it, the edge can be dull out by a nail file. Take away the variance issues, TC 93250 V4 bracelet is probably by far the best stainless steel Submariner bracelet I ever found. The V4 SEL has the same good fit to TC Sub watch case as V3 did. TC LV Sub to the left, Gen 16610 Sub to the right. The bracelet edges are gen finish. TC 93250 V4 clasp coronet against gen. Gen to the left, TC 93250 V4 at the center left, TC 93250 V3 center right, TC 93250 V2 to the right. While my pursuit is after the perfect sub, we have to remember that we are also paying 1/15th of the price compare to a gen. With this said, I will have to strive a balance and pick and choose which I will have to sacrifice with my limited resource. This is my logic of evaluation. Since my goal is the aesthetics of looking and feeling like a gen, the improved coronet is a big step forward in the right direction. The SEL trench etching is an added bonus but when push comes to the shelf, the etching I can do without since no one will see. Over all, the improved coronet on the V4 clasp along with the etched 93250 are the winning points for me. In the end of the day, TC 93250 V4 represents the original 93250 finish better than any of its predecessors. TC 8/14/13
  15. Hey guys, Is anyone in touch with Uwe or knows if he's still active and accepts jobs?! For those who don't know Uwe.. He's a German watchmaker (modder if you will) from Dortmund and worked on this http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/157009-dlc-ap-diver-v3/ for example! I tried to contact him but nothing yet?! If anyone knew about his whereabouts or could advice me on how to contact him, I'd be very thankful.
  16. Hey there, I'm looking to purchase a brand new Rolex Milgauss, one of the black with green tint ones. I am looking for a very high quality rep that feels and weighs the same as the original. I need this watch to last a long time and resemble the original as closely as possible. The highest I'd like to pay is $180 and I can only pay with PayPal. If any of you know where I could pick one up, that would be great. Thanks, Henry
  17. Hey all, I'm trying to source a set of Rolex service 1665 hands with no luck. Biggest hurdle so far is getting the service part number for the hands: Apparently naming the model ISN'T ENOUGH I've been googling like crazy for the past couple of days with no results, does anyone have access to a Rolex service part number...guide?
  18. while browsing the TT website, i came across these two rolex DSSD reps: ROLSD017 - http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_8&products_id=6579 ROLSD029 - http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_8&products_id=10333 017 was released in 2010, but costs more than the newer version 029. 029 claims to have improved the bezel by making it pitch black instead of the greyish bezels of the early reps. one interesting thing i noticed while looking through the QC pics was the shape of the triangle around the pearl: ROLSD017 - 2010 ROLSD029 which one is the better rep in your opinion? any others you would recommend? edit: AR doesn't seem to be very good on ROLSD029
  19. What do you guys think? Gen? Phong/Minh? Cartel? - ok maybe not the last one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rolex-1665-casebody-used-/300924332213?pt=AU_Watches&hash=item46107ce8b5
  20. Hey fellas, Can anyone possibly identify the maker and/or quality of this sub? Basically(as we OCD watch geeks luv to do) critic the heck out it! It does have a smooth sweeping hand that appears to be high beat Swiss movement. The case back hasn't been removed to verify it.This is the first LV release Pre-rehaut engraving. I know the crown and lume dot are not up to specs.The DWO looks like TC's and appears to be very good quality. Any other observations would be appreciated. Now have at it boys!
  21. thebestsub.nl is a site I ran into while looking for purchasing a Submariner 116610. I am a noob but I have been doing some research. The watches here seem to have the correct rehaut engraving, the hour markers seem good with correct size and borders, the cyclops seem to project the date at 2.5 times. The descriptions of the watch on the site are very thorough and have close up pictures as well as a video. The watch runs on a ETA 2836-2 movement with pictures to show that it isnt a clone, which I'm okay with. The bracelet has that hairline finish with no polished links like bad reps have. The guys who run this website also disclose that these watches are from their supplier in Guangzhou, perhaps one of the TDs on this forum? Apologize for any noob remarks but hoping you guys can help out with this. Thank-you
  22. Hello Gents, Check out this eBay listing. Is it me or it this a replica and bad one at that! The pearl is hideous! http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROLEX-SUBMARINER-50TH-ANNIVERSARY-16610LV-MINT-COMPLETE-WITH-BOXES-AND-PAPERS/360676850844?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D8496584489995847805%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D4%26sd%3D321146471515%26
  23. The gen has the blue masking tape on the cushion or always on the left/top. Gen like quality of the rep will be judged from 1-10 (10 being like gen). Notice that this rating CHANGES based on the pictures being compared since the differences may or may not be spotted at another set of comparison shots. The gen used in the comparison is a random serial number model. The rep used is from Timesshop (Mark). It is from the noob factory. This particular one has the A2836 movement. Larger size pictures available in album The comparison is broken down into components of the watch. Case/Bezel Front Elements/Dial Bracelet/Clasp Backside/SEL Fitment Feel in Hand Feel on Wrist Movement Adjustments Suggested Improvements Case/Bezel: 1. Front - Overall:Dial: 9 - Dial maker surroundings being thicker and uneven lume Hands: 8 - all hands are noticeably skinner on the gen; makes it appear longer but actually same lengths Bezel: 8.5 - Gen's engraving is a bit deeper and the color is slightly silver. Rep and gen has 24 clicks but the gen adjustments are consistent through-out. Gen is also quieter when adjusting. My rep had a 1/3 minute of free play. SEL: 8 (the gen SELs sit more flush with the case). Crown Guard: 7.5 (noticeably rounder on the rep, sharp straight edges on the gen) 2. Bezel Edge (close up): You can see the gen has slightly polished teeth while the rep is simply raw (drilled) finish. When you run your fingers over the teeth, the rep is slightly smooth whereas the gen is pointy. 3. Bezel Engraving (close up): Here you can see the differences not only in depth and width of the engraving but also the style of font (notice the 1 has a curved top on the gen and the 8 is slightly more squared). The picture does not show this, but the color is slightly different on the gen; since the gen's numbers are colored with platinum its slightly gray (especially on the triangle). 4. Side: Side: 8 - Overall same dimension but the ends are not as sharp, the gen is quite pointy Crown: 8 - Very good overall, dimension appears to be the same, again sharper teeth on the gen. Front Elements/Dial: 5. Crystal and Bezel (6 inches from watch): Cyclops: 5 Obviously no AR on the rep, also the rep seems to magnify too much... there's a lot more distortion in the magnification on the rep. Rehaut engraving: 8.5 - Sharper and deeper on the gen, of course its aligned perfectly on the gen, reps may have a good alignment of rehaut Crystal: 9 - The crystal on the gen has a slightly polished edge giving it a more defined look. Notice that the gen has more spacing between the crystal and the inner edge of the bezel. The laser etched logo on the rep is too big; you can barely see it with the naked eye on the gen. The logo is drawn by dots on the gen rather than straight lines on the rep. 6. Dial and Hands Printing: 8 - The "GMT - MASTER II" printing on the rep is slightly darker and spacing is a bit off from gen, the print also looks 3d on the gen rather than flat on the rep. Overall font size and color (on the white wording) is quite good. The hole in the coronet is noticeably bigger in the rep. Indexes: 8 - quite good from this view, aside from having slightly thicker surrounds the lume is not as applied as evenly as the gen. you can also see the gen has a much more polished look, the rep has more sharper corners at 6 and 9; the triangle index is the biggest difference between the watches here (due to the application of the lume) Hour Hand: 7.5 - appears to have the same length as gen, but is slightly fatter. the triangle is also larger on the rep; edges are not as clean) Minute Hand: 8.5 - appears to have the same length as gen, but is slightly fatter than gen. Again, edges are not as clean as gen Second Hand: 9 - the hands on the rep is a bit thicker than the gen; especially towards the outside edge. The gen hands has a slightly tapered appearance GMT Hand: 8 - color is quite close in the rep, but the paint/print is completely different than gen. on the gen you can see the paint is thick and is slightly raised, the rep appears flat; triangle is almost identical; ever so slightly thicker around the lume for the rep. This rep has the ICHS but that is hardly ever noticeable; I bet 8/10 gen owners would not know if the GMT hand sits above or below the hour hand... 7. Cyclops and Date wheel Cyclops: 5 - obviously no AR on the rep, but this can be modded. The magnification is higher on the rep. You can also notice more distortion in the magnification. The gen's magnified date still retains the rectangular appearance. Date Wheel: 6 - The date wheel on the rep is completely different specially the number 1. On the gen, the number 1 is more of a letter "I". You can also see 2 and 3s have tails on the gen. Other numbers are also different but 1 2 and 3 are most noticeable. Bracelet/Clasp: 8. Brushing and PCL: 9 (7.5 before custom brushing) - I polished and brushed the rep links myself. Originally the rep's brushing is much thicker than the gen. The thicker brushing gave the bracelet a brighter appearance. Polish is very similar on both models. 7. Flexibility: 6.5 - The rep's bracelet feels quite cheap when held, it rattles more than the gen. The rep bracelet has more lateral movement than gen. The gen links are held on much more tightly. 9. Clasp: 5 - This is the biggest flaw of the rep. The clasp edges are very poor compared to the gen. The coronet on the clasp has a more web like appearance on the rep. Each of the spokes on the gen's crown has more clearly defined spaces. The securing cap is also poorly defined on the rep; it is slightly rounded on the inside edge. The securing cap also does not sit flush with the rest of the clasp. 10. Clasp Adjustments/Inside: 7 - Biggest difference is the engraving inside the clasp. The rep's engraving is thin. I have also sharpied my rep, but still does not have the same appearance in color as the gen. The inside of the gen clasp is sand blasted, the rep has a smoother flat finish. The fine adjustment is there, but its much harder to adjust on the rep. I can easily move the fine adjustment on the gen. The easy link works just like gen, but does not snap in as hard. The rep also seems to scratch the PCL under the clasp more easily than the gen. Backside/SEL Fitment 11. SEL: 5 - It just looks bad on the rep, but in reality the fitment is quite secure. Although, I did modify the fitment and spring bars on the rep. The SEL also does not sit flush with the case on the rep. 12. Case Corners: 8 - This difference is rarely pointed out. On the gen the corners are pointy and sharp. The rep has more rounded corners, probably from polishing the case. 13. Case Back: 8.5 - Sharper teeth on the gen, although the rep may be sharper when new. The brushed part of the case back is smaller on the gen. 14. Backside of Crown Guard: 8 - The gen wraps the crown more than the rep, also much straighter edges than the rep. Not noticeable when worn. Feel in Hand 15. Weight: 9.5 - The rep feels about the pretty much the same as the gen. 16. Feel: 8 - The bracelet and clasp brings this down. Again the entire bracelet is nosier and feels flimsier. Perhaps tightening the permanent links would improve the bracelet feel. Feel on Wrist 17. Comfort: 9 - Rep is just as comfortable to wear. Sets and sizes the same way as the gen. Oiling the bracelet on both models benefit contributes to the comfort as well. 18. Feel: 9 - Feels the same in weight and proportion. Again the bracelet rattles with a more canny sound than the gen. Movement Adjustments The adjustments are shown below. I actually prefer the adjustment settings of the rep than the gen . It's easier to set the date and times on the rep. It has been noted that with A2836 reps, the GMT hand experiences issues. I have seen the GMT hand on my watch lag or stop moving from time to time (usually happens after infrequent use). I have not experience it stopping while being worn. Gen: Unscrewed: winding (CW) First notch: +/- hour hand (1 hour increment) +/- Date (hour hand needs to go around 24 times) (CW/CCW) Second notch: +/- Hour, GMT and minute hands (CW/CCW) Rep: Unscrewed: winding (CW) First notch: +date (CW) +GMT hand (1 hour increment) (CCW) Second notch: +/- main hour and minute (CCW/CW) Suggested Improvements Listed in order of importance: [*]Clasp - needs much more definition in the coronet and securing cap [*]Bracelet Links - needs to be tighten to lessen lateral movement [*]AR Cyclops - very obvious difference from afar [*]Crystal Beveled Edge/Spacing - very easy to spot at wrist distance, the gen crystal seems to shine around the edges [*]Date Wheel - noticeable when up close; especially number "1" [*]Bezel Engraving - more noticeable during side viewing, slightly different color on rep [*]Crown Guard - quite good at this point, but can be straighter, most of the definition of the CG is lost due to heavy polishing... [*]Bezel Edge - very noticeable difference when touched... hard to tell from afar; however the grooves between the teeth are slightly polished on the gen [*]Brushing of the Bracelet - the brushing from the factory is thicker than the gen; it actually gave the bracelet a brighter look than gen. Easy to fix with some scotch bright! Overall, the noob GMT rep is quite good. It was quite hard to tell which was the gen on certain pictures. The dial is very good on the rep as well as the case dimension and looks. The biggest downfall of the rep is the bracelet and clasp. However the AR cyclops would be a great modification as this can be a telltale sign of a rep.
  24. Hey all, Thought I'd put some feelers out here to gauge interest on which vintage rollie dials are in demand. I'm a graphic designer by day and am considering trying my hand at replicating (to a high degree) several vintage dials. What are some dials you guys would like to see/need to improve?
  25. Hi Guys, I noticed that there have not been any post regarding the RG Daytona, maybe its somewhat unpopular? Despite that, It seems like an interesting piece, but I am unfamiliar with the accuracy of this RG version. The @6 has its regular flaws, but just want to know if anyone has a RG version out there they'd like to share about. I'm referring to this FYI: http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_6&products_id=9767 Let us know what you have. Itd be nice sharing Thanks
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