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Found 32 results

  1. Hello guys, my first post here! From SF. I have a collection of both reps and gens. I just received my noob v4 Pam 111, the watch looks gorgeous, but it will not function. i wind it all the way till the click stopped, and nothing happens? If I wind all the way till I can't wind any more, and turn it little more and clamp it down there with the clamp , the movement then moves and watch works for maybe half a minute then stops again? any possible help would be greatly appreciated. thank you!! steve
  2. Hi All, I am new to your community and came to it through researching 1016 rolex builds and saw @1680 's amazing post/blog on his very cool build. I have literally zero expertise in watchbuilding, and am pretty cack-handed, but its really cool to see what you guys are producing. So far I have loved @rolojack 's work and with a bit of luck I would like to get a custom 6610/1016 build from him. In the mean time, it is great to have a browse around these boards and read the incredible depth of expertise on show here. Having visited several legit London dealers researching 1016's, I can honestly say that the knowledge base here is far stronger than with some of the capital's best jewellers. Please keep up the good work, and keep welcoming noobs myself... who knows, maybe one day i'll train myself enough to build something (I hope)! So long, and thanks for all the fish, Headtube.
  3. My work for a lazy Sunday guys hope this helps noobs and our long term members alike........ Some movement info 2824-2 ETA automatic date movement 2836-2 ETA automatic day/date movement 2892A2 – ETA automatic movement with date. One of the best movements made, thinner than a similar Rolex model, strong rotor bearing that doesn’t have rubbing problems (which the Rolex has), and smooth sweep seconds. Costs less than $200, Rolex model is in the thousands… 2893-2 – ETA automatic movement with date and GMT function. Based on the 2892A2 with added gears to make it into a GMT model. 6497-1 ETA handwind movement, found in the large PAM watches 7750 - Chrono movement, can be Swiss or Asian, has 3 sub dials in addition to the normal hands, 30 minute counter, 12 hour counter, and running seconds. A true 7750 has subdials at 12 (30 minute counter) 9 (running seconds) and 6 (12 hour counter). Any different subdial layout and it’s not a 7750. 7753 – ETA Chrono movement, subdials at 9-6-3. Has quick set date pusher at the 11 o’clock position on the movement. There is no quick set date change via the crown. 8215 – a Miyota automatic movement. A genuine one does NOT Hack Analog: A watch that shows the time using hour and minute hands. Aperture: Small opening. The dials of some watches (in French: montres à guichet) have apertures in which certain indications are given (e.g. the date, the hour, etc). Applique: Applique or applied chapters are numerals or symbols cut out of a sheet metal and stuck or riveted to a dial. Automatic watch: A watch whose mainspring is wound by the movements or accelerations of the wearer's arm. On the basis of the principle of terrestrial attraction, a rotor turns and transmits its energy to the spring by means of an appropriate mechanism. The system was invented in Switzerland by Abraham-Louis Perrelet in the 18th century. Automatic winding: This term refers to a watch with a mechanical movement (as opposed to a quartz or electrical movement). The watch is wound by the motion of the wearer's arm rather than through turning the winding stem. A rotor that turns in response to motion winds the watch's mainspring. If an automatic watch is not worn for a day or two, it will wind down and need to be wound by hand to get it started again. Balance: Moving part, usually circular, oscillating about its axis of rotation. The hairspring coupled to it makes it swing to and fro, dividing time into exactly equal parts. Each of the to-and-fro movements of the balance ("tick-tack") is called an "oscillation". One oscillation is composed of two vibrations. Battery EOL: Battery End Of Life indicator. This function forewarns of impending battery failure in a quartz watch by means of the second hand jumping in two or sometimes four-second intervals. The wearer usually has approximately two weeks before battery failure. Bezel: The ring that surrounds the watch dial (or face). The bezel is usually made of gold, gold plate or stainless steel. Bidirectional rotating bezel: A bezel that can be rotated either clockwise or counterclockwise. These are used for mathematical calculations such as average speed or distance (see "slide rule") or for keeping track of elapsed time(see "elapsed time rotating bezel"). Blacksteel: A DLC (diamond-like carbon) Coating used on a few of Breitling's limited edition models. It is an extremely hard surface coating that gives the watch a black appearance. For more information, see wikipedia's definiation of DLC. Bridge: Complementary part fixed to the main plate to form the frame of a watch movement. The other parts are mounted inside the frame. Calendar: A feature that shows the date, and often the day of the week. There are several types of calendar watches. Most calendar watches show the information digitally through an aperture on the watch face. Some chronograph watches show the information on sub-dials on the watch face. Caliber/calibre: Same as Movement. Cambered: Often used in referring to a curved or arched dial or bezel. Chapter ring: An outer ring around a watch dial that contains some sort of unit measurement of time such as minute increments. A chapter ring can be attached to the dial separately or painted directly on the dial. Chronograph: Watch or other apparatus with two independent time systems: one indicates the time of day, and the other measures (stopwatch function) brief intervals of time. Counters registering seconds, minutes and even hours can be started and stopped as desired. It is therefore possible to measure the exact duration of an event. There are many variations on the chronograph. Some operate with a center seconds hand which keeps time on the watch's main dial. Others use sub-dials to time elapsed hours, minutes and seconds. Still others show elapsed time on a digital display on the watch face. Some chronographs can be used as a lap timer (see "flyback hand" and "split seconds hand"). The accuracy of the stopwatch function will commonly vary from 1/5th second to 1/100th second depending on the chronograph. Some chronographs will measure elapsed time up to 24 hours. Watches that include the chronograph function are themselves called "chronographs." When a chronograph is used in conjunction with specialized scales on the watch face it can perform many different functions, such as determining speed or distance (see "tachometer"). Do not confuse the term "chronograph" with "chronometer." The latter refers to a timepiece, which may or may not have a chronograph function, that has met certain high standards of accuracy set by an official watch institute in Switzerland. Chronometer: Technically speaking, all watches are chronometers. But for a Swiss made watch to be called a chronometer, it must meet certain very high standards set by the Swiss Official Chronometer Control (C.O.S.C.). If you have a Swiss watch labelled as a chronometer, you can be certain that it has a mechanical movement of the very highest quality-- undergone a series of precision tests in an official institute. The requirements are very severe: a few seconds per day in the most unfavourable temperature conditions (for mechanical watches) and positions that are ordinarily encountered. Complications: Complications are additional features or mechanical additions to a watch over the standard time and date. For example, a chronograph is a common complication, as well as a day/date or big date. More exclusive complications include minute repeater, tourbillon and retrograde hands. C.O.S.C.: Control Officile Suisse de Chronometers or Swiss Controle Officiel des Cronometres- the independent Swiss regulatory organization that rigorously tests and certifies (or fails) watch movements for chronometer status. Côtes de Genève: A form of decoration in higher grade watch movements which look like stripes on the movement plates. These used to be applied by hand; in many cases in modern times, they are very simply applied by machine. Also called Geneva Stripes. Crown: Also called a stem or pin, a crown is the knob/button on the outside of the watch case that is used to set the time and date. In a mechanical watch the crown also winds the mainspring. In this case it is also called a "winding stem". A screw in (or screw down) crown is used to make a watch more water resistant. The crown actually screws into the case, dramatically increasing the water-tightness of the watch. Crystal: The transparent cover on a watch face made of glass crystal, synthetic sapphire or plastic. Better watches often have a sapphire crystal which is highly resistant to scratching or shattering. Day/date: A watch that indicates not only the date but also the day of the week. Dead-beat seconds: A complication on a mechanical watch where the second hand does not sweep, but jumps forward in one second intervals, much like a quartz watch. Dial: The watch face (plate of metal or other material). Dials vary very much in shape, decoration, material, etc. The indications are given by means of numerals, divisions or symbols of various types. Digital watch: A watch that shows the time through digits rather than through a dial and hands (analog) display. Deployant buckle (Foldover): A three-folding enclosure that secures the two ends of the bracelet and allows enough room for placing the watch on the wrist when fully deployed. When closed, the buckle covers the two-piece folding mechanism. Escapement: Device in a mechanical movement that controls the rotation of the wheels and thus the motion of the hands. Set of parts (escape wheel, lever, roller) which converts the rotary motion of the train into to-and-fro motion (the balance). Flyback hand: A seconds hand on a chronograph that can be used to time laps or to determine finishing times for several competitors in a race. Start the chronograph, putting both the flyback hand and the regular chronograph seconds hand in motion. To record a lap time or finishing time, stop the flyback hand. After recording the time, push a button and the hand will "fly back" to catch up with the constantly moving elapsed-time hand. Repeat the process to record as many lap times or finishing times as needed. In chronographs with numerical display, a "function" having the same effect. Geneva Stripes: A form of decoration in higher grade watch movements which look like stripes on the movement plates. These used to be applied by hand; in many cases in modern times, they are very simply applied by machine. GMT: GMT (Greenwich Mean Time), also known as Zulu Time, as set to the international clock in Greenwich, England, reflects, through an additional hour hand, the world time on a 24-hour scale and is used by pilots worldwide. Guilloché: A style of intricate engraving that is popular on watch dials, usually very thin lines interwoven to create a surface texture. Hack/hacking: Describes the feature of a movement whereby the seconds hand can be stopped for exact setting of the time. Usually done by pulling the crown out to its outermost position. Horology: The science of time measurement, including the art of designing and constructing timepieces. Incabloc: Incabloc is a trade name for a type of shock absorbing device/spring used to protect the delicate parts of the mechanical watch escapement. Mentioned here as it is probably the most widely used and some watch manufacturers used to draw attention to it by referring to it on the watch dial itself. Integrated bracelet: A watch bracelet that is incorporated into the design of the case. Jewels: Synthetic sapphires or rubies that act as bearings for gears in a mechanical watch. The jewels reduce friction to make the watch more accurate and longer lasting. Generally made of synthetic material, except for the precious or semi-precious stones (ruby, sapphire, garnet) which are sometimes used in "de luxe" watches. Jump hour: A jump hour indicator takes the place of an hour hand. It shows the hour by means of a numeral in a window on the dial of the watch. The word "jump" refers to the fact that the numerals jump from 1 to 2 to 3, etc., rather than showing intermediate times between hours as hour hands do. The minutes and seconds in a jump hour watch are read as normal from the analog hands and dial. An example of this type of watch is the Breitling for Bentley Flying B. Kelek: Kelek was established in 1896 & now owned by Breitling. Their was changed to Breitling Chronometrie in 2002. The company decorates and modifies all of Breitling's base movements for them as well as developing in-house modules. After their purchase we may see much more innovative horological additions to watches from Breitling. Kif: Another brand of shock absorbing device similar to Incabloc. Kif is probably the next most common shock absorber on the market. Lugs: Projections on a watch face to which the watch band or bracelet is attached. Lug width: Distance between the lugs which determines the size of strap or bracelet that the watch requires. Main plate: Base plate on which all the other parts of a watch movement are mounted. Mainspring: The driving spring of a watch or clock, contained in the barrel. Manufacture: Short for "manufacture d'horologie", this is a French horological term that is typically used to describe a company that fabricates all or most parts of the wristwatch and movement in-house rather than outsourcing. Mineral crystal: Watch crystal made from what is essentially a form of glass. More scratch resistant than acrylic, a mineral crystal will however scratch and is extremely difficult to polish. Minute repeater: A Complication on a watch that can strike the time in hours, quarters, or seconds by means of a push piece. Movement: The inner mechanism of a watch that keeps time and moves the watch's hands, calendar, etc. Movements are either mechanical or quartz. Moon phase: An indicator that keeps track of the phases of the moon. A regular rotation of the moon is once around the earth every 29 days, 12 hours and 44 minutes. Once set, the moon phase indicator accurately displays the phase of the moon. Power reserve: see reserve de marche Perpetual calendar: A calendar complication that adjusts automatically to account for different lengths of the month (30 or 31 days) and leap years. Perpetual calendars, which can be powered by quartz or mechanical movements, are programmed to be accurate until the year 2100. Quartz movement: A movement powered by a quartz crystal to. Quartz crystals are very accurate. They can be mass produced which makes them less expensive than most mechanical movements which require a higher degree craftsmanship. Reserve de marche: A feature that shows when the mainspring in the watch will need to be wound. This is a complication for mechanical watches that is quite useful and is usually indicated in hours, except in the case of watches that have a very high power reserve numbering in the days. Rehaut: The flange or projection around the inner edge of the watch that typically holds the watch crystal up and reinforces it. The rehaut is typically referred to mostly on Rolex watches as they are inscribed for anti-counterfeiting measures. On most Breitling watches the rehaut is covered by an applied chapter ring. Rider tabs: The four tabs located on the bezels of many of watches from Breitling such as the Chronomat Evolution and the SuperOcean. They are located on the 3, 6, 9 and 12 o'clock positions. Rotating bezel: A bezel (the ring surrounding the watch face) that can be turned. Different types of rotating bezels perform different timekeeping and mathematical functions. Rotor: The part of an automatic (or self-winding) mechanical watch that winds the movement's mainspring. It is a flat piece of metal, usually shaped like a semicircle, that swivels on a pivot with the motion of the wearer's arm. Retrograde: Used to describe a pointer hand on a watch dial (often a subdial), which returns to zero at the end of a prescribed period. For example a watch may have retrograde date - in this case the hand moves up a scale a day at a time, pointing to the current date - when it reaches 31 it will spring back to 1. Repeater: A device that chimes the time when the wearer pushes a button. Some repeaters, called "quarter repeaters" sound just the hours and the quarter hours ( by means of two different pitched tones); others called "five minute repeaters", sound the hours, quarters, and five minute periods after the quarter; and still others called "minute repeaters", sound the hours, quarters and minutes. Rattrapante chronograph: The addition of a flyback hand (rattrapante) significantly increases the potential uses for chronographs. It makes possible the measurement of split second times or timing simultaneous events of unequal duration. Sapphire crystal: A crystal made of synthetic sapphire, a transparent, shatter-resistant, scratch-resistant substance. Screw-lock crown: A crown that can be screwed into the case to make the watch watertight. Skeleton watch: A watch in which the case and various parts of the movement are of transparent material, enabling the main parts of the watch to be seen. Slide rule: A device, consisting of logarithmic or other scales on the outer edge of the watch face, that can be used to do mathematical calculations. One of the scales is marked on a rotating bezel, which can be slid against the stationary scale to make the calculations. Some watches have slide rules that allow specific calculations, such as for fuel consumption by an airplane or fuel weight. Sub-dial: A small dial on a watch face used for any of several purposes, such as keeping track of elapsed minutes or hours on a chronograph or indicating the date. Tachometer: (aka. "Tachometer") A feature found on some chronograph watches, measures the speed at which the wearer has travelled over a measured distance. In watchmaking, a timer or chronograph with a graduated dial on which speed can be read off in kilometers per hour or some other unit (see "timer"). Totalizer: A mechanism that keeps track of elapsed time and displays it, usually on a sub dial on the watch dial. Same as a "recorder" or "register". The term "totalizer" can be used more generally to refer to any counter on a watch. Unidirectional rotating bezel: An elapsed time rotating bezel (see "elapsed time rotating bezel"), often found on divers' watches, that moves only in a counter clockwise direction. It is designed to prevent a diver who has unwittingly knocked the bezel off its original position from overestimating his remaining air supply. Because the bezel moves in only one direction, the diver can err only on the side of safety when timing his dive. Many divers' watches are ratcheted, so that they lock into place for greater safety. UTC: Universal Time Coordinated. A universal time based on the Greenwich Meridian used by the military and in aviation. Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) can be considered approximately equivalent to Universal Time Coordinated (UTC). GMT as such is now obsolete however, being replaced by UTC. Using this time zone/standard avoids errors and problems associated with different time zones and summer times operational in different countries. Vph (vibrations per hour): Movement of a pendulum or other oscillating element, limited by two consecutive extreme positions. The balance of a mechanical watch generally makes five or six vibrations per second (i.e. 18,000 or 21,600 per hour), but that of a high-frequency watch may make seven, eight or even ten vibrations per second (i.e. 25,200, 28,800 or 36, 000 per hour). And some more Replica watch relevant info too…… AD = Authorized Dealer ANDREW = owner of Trusty, or Trusty Time ANGUS = owner of PureTime AR = anti-reflective coating. BCE = Breitling Chrono Evolution. BPH= Beats Per Hour BR = Bell and Ross CF= Graham chrono fighter, also available in carbon fiber. CG = Crown Guard, the piece of metal surrounding the Crown, which is the round knob used to adjust date & time on most watches. Chronometer = A watch that has been rigorously tested for accuracy & precision at various temperatures and atmospheres. Chrono = Chronograph (see above) C&R = Catch and Release, to buy something and immediately sell it on CHS = Correct hand stack CN = CHINA. CNY = Chinese new year, the week or so every year when reps arent shipped. CONUS = Continental United States... (for our purposes seems to include Alaksa, Hawaii and all the protectorates... PR and such.) CH = Crazy Horse. Strap model by Greg Stephen. Dagger = refers to the pam "dagger' movement - since it resembles a dagger. DSN = Davidsen. A dealer. Maybe the best out-of-the-box PAMs DD = DayDate Deployment /Deployant = Type of buckle DJ = DateJust DW = date wheel DWO = Date wheel Overlay DSSD = Deepsea Sea Dweller ETA = Refers to a movement which adheres to a high standard of precision for timekeeping named after a highly regarded Swiss Manufacturer that bares the name ETA or ETA SA Fiddy = Panerai 127 1950 or "fifty" or....'fiddy" Gen = A genuine watch. GMT= Greenwich mean Time GS = Greg Stephen. Strap maker. One of his most popular model is the...CH (crazy horse) HBB = Hublot Big Bang (Hublot watch model) ICHS = Incorrect hand stack IWC = International Watch Company JF = maker of fine pams, no longer in business, but watches come up once in a while Josh = a reputable dealer on this board. MB = Moneybookers MBW= Maria's Best Watch (so called ultimate sub) Watches originally sold by Maria's Best Watch, Sourced in just one stall in the MBK shopping Centre, Bangkok, Thailand. Modded = Modified / Modifications Moonie = omega speedmaster professional M2M = Member to Member sounds bit weird doesn't it........lol referring to a sale generally MOP = Mother Of Pearl Noobmariner = Submariner from the "noob" factory Noob = member just starting out in the rep hobby PAM = Panerai Model PCG = Pointed Crown Guard PM= Personal/Private Message PO = Planet Ocean model of watches. For example, Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean PP = Patek Phillipe PP = Paypal PT= Pure Time OR Precious Time (dealers) Pumpkin = Omega Planet Ocean Orange Bezel PVD =physical vapor deposition (a technique used to deposit a ultral thin layer of various material, commonly found in PAMs) Rep = A replica of a genuine watch. RGM = Rep Geek Member ROC = Rolex Oyster Cosmograph RWG= Replica Watch Guide (watchforum) RWG1= Replica Watch Guide (watchforum) http://www.rwg.bz/board/ RWI = replica-watch.info (watch forum) http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/index.php SEL= Solid End Links SFSO = Steelfish SuperOcean SG = Sapphire Glass ****inerand = A marking inside the back of a Rolex Submariner. Skeleton = See through face so you can see the inner workings. SL = Super Lume SMP = Sea Master Professional, by Omega Sub = A Rolex Submariner, one of the most popular replicas made because of its mass market popularity. SS = Stainless Steel TANG = A type of buckle. the standard buckle on just about every watch you see in the real world....not a deployant. Ti= Titanium TRC= The Replica Collector (watchforum) TT = two tone (blue black gold etc) UPO = probably the most popular single replica Omega watch model ever "Ultimate Planet Ocean". VPH: Vibrations Per Hour. A more accurate term than BPH. WBK = Wacko Bird Keeper - a great dealer on the forums! WG= White Gold WIS = Watch Idiot Savant. A term from the genuine forums that we seem to be stuck with... WOK = (or Wokky) - about the shape of the rehaut resembling a wok WM = Watchmaterial pearl for submariner bezel insert. WM = Watchmaster, similar to MBK, etc WU = Western Union YG= Yellow Gold 28k: 28,800vph. Highest quality beat rate in replicas. 21k: 21,600vph. The beat rate of vintage Subs, old 7750 copies and Asian 2 Accuracy – mechanical watches are anywhere from a few seconds a day to a minute a day fast or slow, this is normal Asian movement – Chinese copy of a Swiss movement. Most Swiss parts are NOT interchangeable with the Asian copies of the same movement. Generally, Asian copies are great value for the money, and well-made and dependable. Asian movements and parts – there are no parts available for Asian movements, not even for Miyota Automatic – Movement that winds as you wear it. Balance wheel – the most fragile part of the movement, and the part that breaks if you drop the watch. It swings back like the pendulum in a grandfather clock. Beat – the adjustment of the position of the balance wheel, pallet arm, and escape wheel. A watch is said to be in “Beat” when all three are aligned, and the balance swings the same amount in each direction (see Swing) Bezel – a metal ring around the crystal attached to the case. It can have numbers on it and rotate around, as in the case of a Rolex Submariner, or Omega Seamaster. Or it can be fixed and not moveable, as in a Rolex DateJust. Normally a separate piece from the case itself. It is held in place with a spring or a compression ring. Bi-Directional winding – an automatic movement that winds when the rotor turns clockwise, or counter clockwise, examples are ETA 2836-2, 2892A2, etc. BPH – Beats Per Hour – how fast the watch runs. A manual wind 6497-1 runs at 18,000 BPH (18,000 Ticks and Tocks each hour). A 2836-2 runs at 28,800 BPH. More BPH is equal to a smoother sweep of the seconds hand on the dial face. 18,000 BPH is 2.5 “Ticks and Tocks” per second, 28,800 BPH is 8 Ticks and Tocks per second. Speeds are 18,000, 21,600, and 28,800. Bridge – part of a movement that is held in place at more than one end, the part over the mainspring is normally a bridge. Cap Jewels – two piece jewels found on the top and bottom pivots of the balance wheel. They are the only 2 piece jewels in the watch, and are taken apart to oil them. Case – what the movement and dial are inserted into, normally made of stainless steel Caseback – the back of the watch that is screwed into the case and seals the watch, normally there is a rubber ring in the caseback to dust and water proof the watch CG Lever – on PAM watches, it’s the small lever that closes shut over the crown Chrono (chronograph) stopwatch type of movement, has sub-dials Chrono Center Seconds – the seconds hand in the center of the movement, which only works when the Chrono is activated. Chronometer – a movement that meets the accuracy standards set out in the COSC rules, accurate to –4 to +6 seconds per 24 hours. Click – as applied to the mainspring of the watch, the small spring or tab that ratchets as the mainspring is wound up. It is the “click, click, click” you can hear on some watches when you wind them Click Wheels – on automatic movements, click wheels are the small wheels that act as clutches and allow the watch to be hand wound, without turning the rotor. They are very fragile and prone to damage if the watch is hand wound too often or too fast. Compression Ring – used to hold mineral or sapphire crystals in place in the case. A crystal press is needed when installing the crystal and the compression ring compresses during installation, and secures the crystal in place Crown – the part that you use to wind the watch, set the time or date Crown (Screw Down) – found on many watches, is used for water proofing. The crown is screwed down towards the case and seals up against O-rings. Crown Guard’s (CG) – the part of the watch case that is next to the crown. On a PAM model, it’s a separate part with a lever attached to it. On most Rolex models, it’s part of the case and projects on each side of the crown, to protect it in case of impact. Rep CG’s can be too thick or the wrong shape, and are sometimes filed down to make them look more realistic. Crown Positions – either 2 or 3 positions depending on the movement type. If the watch has a day/date function, there are 3 positions, 1st position is the one with the crown closest to the case, this is the winding position, farthest out position (3rd or 2nd depending on the model) is the time setting position, the center or 2nd position is used to set the date, day, or GMT hand. Crown Tube – the small tube attached to the case, that the crown fits into Crown up, Crown Down, Dial Up, Down, etc (CU, CD, DU, DD)… Position of storing the watch, the watch runs faster in positions other than the dial up and dial down ones, due to side loads on the pivots Crystal – the glass on the watch through which you see the dial. Most are made of Sapphire an extremely hard mineral (only thing harder is diamonds), but they can be Mineral (glass) or plastic Cyclops – a small magnifier that is glued to the crystal and sits over the date window. It magnifies the date so older people can tell what day of the week it is Date-wheel overlay – a decal put on over an ETA movement date-wheel to simulate the position of the date-wheel on a genuine Rolex. Daytona – type of Rolex Chrono model. Two versions, a pre-2000 with running seconds at 9, and a post-2000 version with running seconds at 6. The ones with running seconds at 6 are problematic due to the modification on the movement. Dial Feet – small posts attached to the bottom of the dial, used to secure the dial to the movement. The dial feet (2 of them) are specific to the type of movement in the watch, and are not in the same location on all watch models. Dial pads or tape – small double-sided sticky dots used to secure the dial to the movement, if the dial feet don’t line up. A perfectly acceptable way of securing a dial to the movement. Dial washer – a small spring washer made of brass, it fits over the hour wheel (the gear that the hour hand fits onto). When the dial is installed on the movement, the backside of the dial presses against the washer, and this holds the hour wheel in place and engaged into the minute gear. A missing dial washer will cause the hour hand to slip out of engagement when the watch is turned upside down. Direct Center Seconds – most Swiss models have the Second wheel (the first one after the escape wheel) in the center of the movement and driving the seconds hand directly, this produces a much smoother look to the seconds hand DRSD Double Red Sea Dweller – type of old Rolex End links (bracelet) – the part of the bracelet where the watch case and the bracelet meet. Escape wheel – a special wheel with strange shaped teeth that allows one tooth of the wheel to “Escape” every time the pallet stones move out of the way ETA – Swiss type of watch movement, very good quality Fine Rate Adjuster – a small arm or screw on the balance [censored] with a + - markings and indices. It is used for fine adjustments to the rate of the watch. The general rule of thumb is that each index represents about 5-10 seconds a day adjustment. GMT watch – a watch with a 4th hand that does one turn around the dial face for every 24 hours. The hand is set independent of the time. Hacking – Something that happens if you smoke too much. On a watch, pulling the crown out to the time setting position, and causing the seconds hand to stop running is called Hacking the movement. This allows the time to be set exactly to the second. Hacking lever – the small lever that moves and touches the balance wheel, thereby stopping the watch from running. Hairspring – a very small fragile spring attached to the balance Hands – Swiss hands are mostly the same size between like models. For example, most automatic Swiss movements have hands 0.25mm for seconds, 0.90mm for minute, and 1.50mm for hour. Asian models will have 0.17mm for seconds, 1.00mm for minute, and 1.55mm for hour hands, on their automatic models. This is a general rule of thumb, unless the movement is identical, the hands are not interchangeable most times Impulse Jewel – the small post like sapphire jewel on the bottom of the balance wheel that the pallet arm fork hits and imparts an “impulse” to, causing the balance to swing around. Incabloc – type of shock absorber and spring, looks like the letter “H” Indirect center seconds drive – on most Asian automatic movements (including the Miyota), the center seconds hand is driven by a wheel turning a pivot, this causes some “jumpiness” of the seconds hand, especially in the downward direction with gravity, in the upward direction, the hand will be smooth as gravity takes up the slack in the gears Interchangeability – Swiss and Asian parts are not interchangeable. Jewels – an automatic watch will normally have 25 jewels, a manual one – 17 jewels. Jewels are made of sapphire (Ruby) and installed in the various plates and bridges. The jewels are press fitted (35 lbs pressure needed to insert them) into the bridges into precision holes reamed 0.01mm smaller than the jewel diameter. The jewels have small holes in them for the pivots of the gears to sit in and turn on. Oiling the watch requires perfectly clean jewel holes and gear pivots, and application of the correct amount of oil. The oil is held in place by capillary action. On the escape wheel, the oil needed is about the size of the point of a pin. Jewels are used to reduce friction in the watch. Keyless works – old term going back to when pocket watches used “keys”. Refers to the part of the watch that the crown and stem are attached to. It winds, and sets the time or date on the watch. KIF – type of shock absorber spring, looks like a triangle Mainplate – the basic large piece of the movement, sort of like an engine block. The mainplate and various bridges and cocks are normally made of brass, and nickel or gold plated. Mainspring – the large spring in the movement that makes the watch run, most watches run for 36-52 hours with a full wind MBW – highly specialized Rolex copy, accepts genuine parts and is a direct copy of a genuine Rolex Miyota – Asian movement made by Citizen. Automatic, date, very reliable Motion works – the part of the watch that starts at the mainspring, and ends at the escape wheel, it’s the gears that make up the motion from the mainspring to the escape wheel. Gears are named in the order found from the pallet arm: Escape wheel, 2nd wheel, 3rd wheel, 4th (or Great) wheel, and then there is the mainspring barrel. O Rings – o’rings are found on the caseback, and crown, they keep water and dust out of the watch Oiling a watch – taking a watch completely apart, cleaning each and every part, then assembling the watch, and “oiling” each pivot point with the correct type and quantity of oil. Open 6’s and 9’s – older Rolex date-wheels had open 6’s and 9’s (meaning the circle on the 6 or 9 was not touching the other side, there is a gap in the loop). Overwinding a watch – a misnomer, as there is no way to overwind a watch (see Winding) Pallet arm and stones – a small “T” shaped part that has square stones at the top of the “T” part and a small notch at the other end. The pallet stones are connected to the escape wheel, and as the watch runs, each pallet stone allows one tooth of the escape wheel to come free each time the pallet arm moves from one side to the other. As the pallet arm moves, the escape wheel provides an “impulse” to the Pallet arm, which is connected to the balance wheel, this in turn, causes the balance wheel to swing back and forth… The engaging and disengaging of the pallet stones to the escape wheel, are what makes the “tic/toc” you hear. Pinion – the small part of the gear in the movement, think of it as the part of the bicycle that is attached to the front forks Pivot – the small ends of the watch gears that sit in jewels and are oiled during servicing Plastic Crystal – installed with a special tool that compresses the crystal, then after it’s inserted into the case, is released and the crystal expands and locks in place Pusher – on a chrono model, a small post or lever above and below the crown, used to Start/Stop/and Reset the chrono. Quick date change – a movement that switches the date instantly at midnight. Rate – how fast or slow a watch runs, any more than a minute a day either way, and the watch needs to be serviced Rehaut – the small ring between the bottom of the crystal and the dial face. Normally silver in colour, it can be polished or brushed. On some models, the depth of the “rehaut” is too shallow and a dead giveaway that the watch is a replica. Rotor – the part of an automatic movement that moves around and winds the watch Running secs – means the seconds hand that is always “running” when the watch is working. On a Chrono model, it’s normally in the 9 o’clock position, or the 6 O’clock one. SEL – Solid End Link’s – same as End Links, only not hollow but solid metal. Found on more modern Rolex models. Shock absorber – the balance cap jewels are installed and held in place with small springs that act as shock absorbers, since the balance is the most prone to damage due to shock. Reason that the balance is prone to damage more than the rest of the parts, is due to two things: 1. the balance pivots are smaller than a human hair, and 2. the balance has a lot of weight around it’s outer edge, so that it will keep on ticking…if the watch is dropped, this weight will come to bear on the tiny pivots and they will break off. Singer Dial – Company that makes dials for Rolex, the back of the dial has “Singer” engraved in it. Spring bars – small tubes with posts on them, that are inserted into the bracelet end links and hold the bracelet to the watch Stem – the part of the watch that the crown screws into and that activates the keyless works Subdial – a small dial on the main dial of the watch. It is normally found on chrono movements, and could be at the 12, 9, 6, or 3 o’clock location on the dial. Sweep – the motion of the seconds hand around the dial, it can be smooth or jerky. The faster the movement beats, the smoother the “sweep” of the seconds hand. Swing – a normal balance should swing about 270 degrees in each direction. From the neutral position, the balance will swing Clockwise 270 Degrees (1 ¾ Turns), come to a stop, return to the neutral position, then do the same thing in the Counter clockwise direction. It swings due to the “Impulse” it gets from the pallet arm. Tritium – a radioactive glow in the dark substance used on some dials and hands Uni-Directional winding – an automatic movement that winds in one direction only, it free wheels in the other direction. If you swirl the watch in your palm, you can feel the rotor swinging in the free direction. Examples are most Asian movements, (Miyota 8215), and all 7750 movements and their variants whether Swiss or Asian made (i.e. 7753). UV Glue – a special type of glue used to secure the Cyclops to the crystal, or to secure the crystal to the case (plastic crystals). It cures only when exposed to UV light. Wheel – the large part of a gear in the movement, think of the wheel as a bicycle rim and tire Winding – an automatic watch can’t be over wound, there is a clutch that protects the watch from being over wound. A hand wind can’t’ be over wound either, you wind it until it reaches the stop and you can wind it anymore. Spring breakage is very rare in modern watches. Some of the dealers you'll find around the forums, not all of them are TD's here though.......... Robbie: Aoobuy Stan: BK/WBK/WackoBirdKeeper Connie: Kingwatch Josh: Perfect Clones Andrew: Trusty Time Mehmet, Amanda, Alen: Kuvarsit/KW Michelle: Silix Toro: ToroBravos Reg: Narikaa Mark: TSWatch Mary, Rochest: Watch International Dan/P4GTR: Migliorestrap TC : Thomas Caddell Mehmet/Amanda - Kuvarsit/KW Angus: Puretime Ryan, Jordan: Intime Saed: Supermirrors Lucy: Truetime Trevor: Trevor watches Ken/KB: Bergies Ken: PsYcHoSPIKE Tim/FatPanda: Watchfinder Tony: Asian7750 John/TimeWillTell, Michelle: Lion City Watches Sora: ShineWatch David Wong: DW TC: Thomas Caddell David: Davidsen Eric/Donerix: Hamilton Leather Works Vic/SMP_Lover: Haute Strapmakerie Please feel free to add more as we go..........
  4. I really need help. I am going to buy an omega 42m Planet ocean and Would like to ask two things Movement;Asian 2836 automatic or Japanese MIYOTA 8215 is better? Production; Noob or V6F? http://puretime02.com/special-offers/planet-ocean-professional-ceramicorange-bezel-42mm-11-noob-best-edition-on-ss-bracelet-a2836.html http://puretime02.com/planet-ocean-professional-ceramic-bezel-orange-markers-42mm-v6f-1-1-best-edition-on-black-rubber-strap-a8500.html# Thank you in advance
  5. Hi guys, I'm calling myself Tagman1 , I'm new to this site and am looking foward to gaining some knowledge, it's been a while since I bought my last rep but would love some tips before my next purchase. kind regards kind
  6. Hey fellas just received my Noob LMPO and I'm in awe!This is hands down the best Omega rep I have seen in my plus 20 years in the rep game!It surpasses BP CrPO in fit, finish, weight, AR, crown tube assembly, bezel, insert, dial, pear placement, etc and is on point with the gen. I'm very impressed at what noob has done despite the initial batch with the poor dials. The only cons I would say is sizing the band is a bear!The pins are super tight and I recommend taking it to a professional jeweler unless you have an hour or two to spare, patience, and a very good watch repair kit. Also the divers extension could be tighter and does come loose occasionally. Overall this watch is a go and the best Omega rep out there to date! I opted for the Asian ETA although Swiss is available as well from Puretime. Highly recommend pick one up. Enjoy to the max!
  7. There's a new HULK set to be released soon which makes the V5 look ridiculous. No word on which factory will be releasing it but will keep y'all updated. Now some pics (NOOB V5 on the right)
  8. Hi guys, Thanks to Ryan, I have the opportunity today to give you a pictorial comparaison of three famous bracelets. We hear a lot about those, the best combo being "NOOB CLASP + LF BAND" for great franked 116710 projets, which Im deep into it. I Then bought - Noob 78200 - LF 78200 - LF YachtMaster 78200, known as one of the best. I took some pictures, make some trys, I went for the classic combo Noob clasp + LF Band, its the best fit for my Noob V2 116710 Case. Engravings are not quite good but 78200 correct, coronet is superb, SEL fitment is almost very very good, quality of every links has been checked, noob clasp working perfectly, bracelet has been oiled.. Here are the pictures - NOOB on the LEFT and TOP - LF at the middle - YachtMaster LF at the right, and bottom. Please share your thoughts ! Cheers
  9. Hi everyone I'm glad to have found this forum with so much people and information I want to thank the creators for this as so far I've learnt a lot. The patek Philippe aquanaut 5167 is why I joined the forum and hope to find some pictures and a good website to buy from
  10. Hey all, Firstly WOW - think i just read 42 rules about what to post and what not, guess i will bear the wrath sooner or later. Sure everyone feels the same as they are looking into their new hobby. Hey, i'm Levi in Sheffield UK, looking at starting a collection - my other hobbies include photography so looking forward to combining the two. Always been hankering after a Cerrera - but so much choice, the one definite would be the space (automatic) with white dial. I have seen Angus has the black dial on quartz, which isn't perfect for me and my first one has to be (not wanting to break any rules I appreciate it won't be 'perfect). Be Nice!
  11. Hi everyone! After reading several reviews regarding the Noob LMPO replica, I was really to pull the trigger but am having a hard time finding someone who has them in stock. I also recived an interesting response from Joshua at PC stating: "Hi This is out of stocks.. The stocks are all flawed and bad quality ..maker is forced to call back the stocks cos no one wants it . Dont consider it . it is very badly made." Any input/insight would be great appreciated!
  12. For some time I've had my eye on the Safari and think I'm about to move on one. I noticed pure-time released a new line of Noob Royal Oak's on bracelets last week. This is a great addition because I think very few people do anything with the fake croc straps except throw them in a box and leave them there. Can anyone chime in if this is a new version of the 42mm Noob or if it is just a re-release on steel. I've done my due diligence and think i'm going to go with the Noob over the JF and pic up an APBands strap. I've tried the gen on a few times and have noticed differences and imperfections between gens which is strange but seems somewhat common among AP watches. This should make for a nice little fanken project. If this is different than the older Noob, does the forum have an opinion??? Thanks, here are the pictures from puretime. PS: Can anyone chime in if this is the current bracelet dealers are selling that will fit the new AP Divers? I have a version 6.1 http://pure-time.com/product/royal-oak-offshore-safari-noob-11-best-edition-on-ss-bracelet-a7750/
  13. Hello, I am soon to be buying my first rep, and I really like the PAM177. I tried to buy it from Pure-Time, but it seems as though my bank won't allow it. I want to make sure that if something goes wrong, my bank will cover it. Pure-Time doesn't allow Paypal, so I had to search for another source that does. I found Andrew's site, which seems to allow Paypal transactions, but I couldn't find the same watch as the one I saw on Pure-Time. On Pure-Time, I was going to buy the Noob Ultimate PAM177 for $288, but what seems to be fairly equivalent to that on Andrew's site is the H Factory PAM177 for $258. The specs seem identical, and the watches look identical, but I'm fairly new to this. I heard the noob 177 was great, how does this one look? trusty-watch.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_49&products_id=8700 Is there a reason why it's less expensive? If so, should I go for this one from Andrew, or should I bite the bullet and just go for the Noob one on Pure-Time? Thanks
  14. Hello, I'm about to buy my first rep, and I'm torn between the PAM111 Noob V3 and the Noob PAM177. I'm leaning towards the 177 because I like the brushed titanium and I think I prefer that to the very shiny polished case of the 111. However, I know that the 111 V3 is supposed to be an excellent rep, is the Noob 177 as good of a rep and as reliable? Also, I am planning on getting the rubber strap, but I'm worried about the rubber breaking at the lugs (I don't know why), should I be worried about this? Here is the link to the 111 that I'm considering: pure-time.com/product/pam111-n-v3-noob-best-edition-on-black-rubber-strap-with-pre-v-hands And the 177: pure-time.com/product/pam177-n-noob-best-edition-on-black-oem-rubber-strap Or is there a better 177 rep around? Thanks!
  15. Hi all, i'm new and have taken the time to browse the forums. After much research I ordered an Omega LMPO from Noob through Puretime yesterday. The website is now down, is there any way to contact them to check up on my order? I have had no confirmation or anything although the money has been taken off the credit card. Thanks in advance.
  16. Hi everyone, I'm looking for a Panerai 111 N-series V3 noob? Don't hesitate to contact me. Many thanks
  17. Good news everyone! So I get asked about this issue on a fairly regular basis, and I don't think that bumping my older threads is a good way to alleviate the confusion on this subject. The truth is always somewhere in the middle and this is no exception. This is a long read, for which I apologize, but maybe you'll find something that you didn't think of before. I'm going to combine from several of my posts and private discussions so this may look familiar to some of you. The data is collected over a pretty sizable chunk of time, all first hand with my own tools, and I would estimate from close to a 100 watches or in that ballpark. First some numbers and findings: Crystal diameter on manual wind models (3.5mm center thickness): o OEM Panerai 35.50-35.52mm o Aftermarket/replica 35.49mm to 35.57mm \_ this varies slightly, but more so on the plus side, e.g. I encounter a lot more 35.53mm crystals than 35.49mm ones. Crystal I-ring gasket thickness: o OEM Panerai - 0.56mm o C3 - 0.56mm * o Noob 111J - 0.39-0.42mm o Noob 005/111/112/219M - 0.37-0.40mm o Noob 005/112/111N v3 - 0.49-0.50mm o H-F all models: L, K, M & N - 0.49-0.53mm Crystal I-ring height: o Between 1.00 and 1.25mm will work with any case crystal bed. * C3 gasket is OEM size and thus will only fit a JimmyzFu or OEM case. Secondly, you cannot underestimate the importance of using a good crystal press to do all of your installs. If you're a weekend warrior and can't justify getting a Bergeon or another good quality press, do not get the $15-25 presses from eBay with all-nylon dies. The following two presses are the next best thing on a budget - 1, 2. I recommend getting both as the dies are interchangeable and sometimes when you need a bit more oomph use an alloy die from the pliers press. Also, if you create your account on WatchBitz and then email Alan about getting a RG/RWG discount, he'll set you up so you see lower prices in your cart automatically. If after reading this you feel this exercise is not for you, have someone with a good press install the crystals for you because guess what - there are no readily available gasket replacements anywhere. You mess up a gasket, you might as well toss the case. You may get lucky with some DSN or CousinsUK gaskets, for example Cousins p/n: IG363355C1 sometimes works in Noob 111J and 111M cases but there is never any guarantee either will fit in your specific case. Reason for this is simple, though PAM reps are better today than ever before, we're still having all the same issues we had 8 years ago. The tolerances have gotten higher due to better machining, but we also have ten times more combinations of parts available. Multiple models from the two major factories came off different masters/molds, several crystal manufacturers have been employed along the way, and don't forget custom and boutique makers like C3, LH, JF, Taka, DSN, etc. Moreover, there's an ever-present x factor, which in reality is nothing more than a combination of inconsistencies working against you. They are usually a slightly over-sized crystal, a slightly tighter than spec case rehaut, a slightly thicker gasket or not enough give in the gasket. To illustrate this better, stay with me through this exercise as the below scenario is common. You are installing a H-Factory crystal in your new Noob case; the crystal happens to be 35.54mm instead of 35.50mm, your Noob case crystal bed is 36.25mm instead of the usual 36.30mm, BUT the gasket in your case just so happens to be 0.40mm on the nose. Result - you won't be able to install this one. Your gasket needs to be 0.22 to 0.25mm thick at the most in order to offset the tolerances on other parts. Once you start doing the math it becomes obvious why you have this issue: (35.54-35.50)*2 + (36.30-36.25)*2 = 0.18mm, that's how much thinner the gaskets needs to be for your crystal to fit. There are no gaskets that are that thin or can get squeezed that much. Thirdly, and equally as important as all of the points above, you need to make sure that if you or anyone else took out your crystal gasket for any reason, when you go to put it back in the case - it's getting put back the right way up. In a perfect scenario your case has a proper spec. crystal bed, you have a mint original gasket that came with the case and you have a crystal that's not overly gigantic - 35.50-35.53mm. You go to instal and pinch and crease the gasket because you didn't check the orientation. Pick up a jewelers loupe and take a good look at the inside of the gasket. What happens when the crystal is pressed in for the first time is the "I" gasket becomes squeezed into an "L" gasket. Some nylon gets pushed down and forms a tiny ledge that lives comfortably in the bottom bevel of the crystal. It's not hard to miss this tiny amount of extra nylon when you're replacing the gasket, but it makes all the difference. This ledge always needs to end up on the bottom. To recap, for a successful crystal install the following are essential: 1) Original gasket that came with your case in good condition, no pinches, creases or flats. 2) Good quality crystal press with alloy or brass inlay dies. 3) Correct orientation of the gasket inside crystal bed. 4) Non-gigantic crystal is also a plus, I have a 35.57mm crystal sitting in my box, it's never getting installed. In conclusion, it must be said that if you have all the parts in front of you, and you have a digital caliper precise to 1/100ths of a mm, it will take a minute to figure out if it's a doable job beforehand. Thank you for reading and I hope I didn't bore you too much.
  18. Hi chaps, I'm relatively new to Omegas but have found one that I love and am hoping you might be able to assist me with a few noob questions! I've read through pretty much every related thread so hopefully they won't be too painful. Big thanks to everyone for the info/reviews, particularly Cougar and Khashayar. This will be my first rep. I came to RWG for a Breitling Navitimer but the inaccuracies and the fact that there will be a new model in circa 6 months put me off. The Omega model I'm looking to purchase is this one on Trusty: http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_114&products_id=11114 Firstly, is this model the new rep from the noob factory, or the older one from BP just updated with a new strap? I understand the noob one will be of higher accuracy and that there has been a delay in their rep coming out. If this is the BP one, would you advise I wait? This one looks pretty damn good to me! Secondly, is there anything I should keep an eye out for when it comes to QC? I've seen that the pearl being as close to centre as possible in the triangle is something that can vary and also the straightness of the '12' marking. Is there anything else I should ask Andrew to try to avoid for me? I'm a bit of a perfectionist so would like to pick up the best possible version. Thirdly, could anyone advise what the correct box would be for the gen of this model? I'd quite like to pick one up to go with it and found the following two on Trusty. Wooden: http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_102&products_id=2056 Leather: http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_102&products_id=727 Lastly, it may sound ridiculous but for clarity what is the correct term & acronym for this model? I've seen a large number of acronyms (CrPO, POLM, ti) related and also some numbers, e.g. 300. From what I understand, this model is made from titanium, has a ceramic bezel (on the gen) and is made from titanium - does that make it a POLMCrTi?! Many thanks in advance for the help/patience, much appreciated.
  19. I was searching for a Omega watch and I found this forum. I am glad to see that I have found this place before making any investment. I will read the reviews and will use the search option a lot before starting very basic questions to all members... saying Hi to all Mayukh
  20. Hello all! Earlier this week I bought my first Rolex replica after a long (long long long long long) time searching, reading and asking questions. Please welcome my Rolex Submariner Ceramic Noob V1. If this looks boring, and it probably is, just skip to the pictures! (i'm sure they will do some justice!) Why Did I Go With The V1: Trust me, I know the V2 is out! But if I were to buy it and spend the $300+, I only wanted to buy it new with a Asian clone mvnt. Pureti.me was the only person I was talking to about Stock availability in the V2, and they kept telling me 2 weeks until they get it in... 1 week passed, 2 weeks passed, 3 weeks passed and still no stock for them. So I decided to spend less money on a V1 and live with the flaws! It has nothing to do with the differences between the V1 and V2, I simply bought it since I was eager to have my first rep Rolex! My First Thoughts: I definitely never noticed how white Rolex' lume applicator was until I went in a local Rolex store and took a peek. By the looks of it, the V1 doesn't have many flaws... Okay maybe if you know your watches and get in its face then you can tell the flaws, but the quality of this watch is amazing. Flaws I've noticed w/ out Having to go Back to the Books: By this, I mean what I noticed myself that differed from my genuine Rolex research without having to go back on the Forums and ask questions or search for differences of my V1 to the Gen. It seems like the flaws are minimal. I bought this watch via M2M and the previous owner did a Bezel paint mod and waterproofed and tested. With that it is very gen-like already. However I did noticed the minute markers do not reach the reheut, the 'm' in '300m' is not spaced away from the '300' enough and not italicizes enough. (I have not done research on the following so don't judge me). --> the pearl is definitely off on this one. It is centered to the triangle, however, if you can tell in the following pictures - the previous owner must have accidentally brushed the paint on the pearl while trying to do the bezel paint mod. This is not that big of an issue to me as I am currently searching for a replacement Bezel + Pearl. As for the bezel, I don't know much about the difference with the gen. ceramic and rep. noob ceramic so I will let you all be the judge of the. The bracelet feels light to weight but the fit and feel is as comforting as a leather strap. Ok maybe I'm exaggerating... The brushed S/S is a nice look but the 314L definitely does not compare to Rolex' 904L S/S uses. I can already notice some wears and marking just from moving the adjustment clasp up and down. The date-magnifier gets a lot of reflection and does not look gen-like at all when taking a close look, or even when trying to take a picture of the watch outside. From what I remember, I will need to have the mag AR? coated. Future Expectations (modding): - I don't know if it would fit, but I'm thinking of buying a Noob V2 bracelet from another member who has an extra one lying around and try to fit it in. - I definitely want to replace the ceramic bezel and pearl on this one, something doesn't look right to me and I can't put my eye on it! From here I will need to do some more research on modding a Rolex to decide what else is necessary for mine to look more gen-like, but I will definitely appreciate any suggestions! The main reason I wanted to write this review: I wanted a better eyes opinion. Not because I can't live with it, I love it, but I would like to know what you noticed that I haven't. This will help me in the future when buying Rolex. Do you think there are major differences between the Noob V1 and Noob V2?: No, honestly a replica watch is a replica watch, each will have its own flaws, they will never be spot on but like we all say, buy it if you can live with its flaws! And I'm still living. . . . . _____________________________________________________________________________________________ Now for the close-up shots. Bezel Close Up (paint mod outcome) Pearl Close Up (I believe you can see the paint on Pearl.) Direct View of Dial Well, for now that's all. I look forward to reading your comments, replies, remarks or suggestions! Thanks for looking
  21. My little collection. Do not judge strictly...
  22. Here's a dial on the bay that I am thinking about buying http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-dial-for-steel-or-white-gold-Rolex-Submariner-/331034919809?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d13380381 I need to know; would this fit the Noob V2 SubC or BP ? Also, I don't have a watch-maker so who should I go to to put this together with the Sub i end up buying? (i.e i live in NY) How much would it cost to pay someone for replacing a dial with this? THANKS
  23. Greetings, anyone from Msia? Newly joined, need guidance on rep. I have some queries that need inputs and thoughts from you guys if anyone mind sharing - Anyone (specifically from Msia) has any experience with Trusty Time? Like the quality, price, delivery satisfiable? Do they look very similiar to genuine? *I'm looking for an AP (navy or bumblebee or panda) and a Hublot BB Steel Ceramic - BTW, why AP bumblebee wasn't labelled "BASE" but "TACHYMETER" in the inner yellow ring? and it doesn't has a forged carbon casing right? will there be a new breed of reps or any possibility in ordering the parts stated above? Cheers ~~~~
  24. So I have been lurking here for quite awhile and I think I am ready to make my first move in the rep world. I've decided I want to run a Breitling Skyland Avenger in graphite, now that I've made that decision I need to narrow down which model is best as always I know they're are going to be pros and cons to all of them. From what I've seen the v2 updated is the best version. These are what I see from Andrew with SS bracelets, please give me your advice on which one is the best and if the best is available somewhere else where? http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_137&products_id=9897 http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_137&products_id=3112
  25. Hello to all. New member here but not a newbie. I've been in the rep world for a few years but no way an expert like most of the crew here. Bought the noob IWC Sport for Good from Mark at Timeshops. Service was great and he responds well. Read a lot about how great this watch is, and I'd been to the AD to check it out. They had the regular Invenieur in black without the solid caseback (could see the movement), and after loads of research pulled the trigger! Watch arrives in 10 days and first impression is Woah!! An awesome piece if you like a dressy look. Dial and hands well done, close to gen. Hands look good and the movement on the Swiss is impressive. The dome is a little less than the one I saw but barely noticeable. Did I say great movement!! The blue color of the dial screams quality, and the strap, while nowhere close to gen is better than many reps. Power reserve clocked at 24hrs, and keeps good time. So what's bugging me? The caseback has engravings from the Sports for Good Foundation. The gen seems to have a deep/dark engraving (first pic). The one from Puretime has a similar look (second pic). Mine seems to have a white-ish, almost printed engraving (third pic). Reached out to Mark who said the factory makes one quality for the Swiss version (450 bucks +). I've sent him Puretime's pics. This is the biggest tell on the one I got. Else super-rep, but not really super if this is different from gen. Any thoughts guys? Did they pull a fast one? From the pics the difference is quite obvious, unless (a) I have to scrape off the white coating! or ( this is how it's supposed to be on the gen/super-rep and the pics show different. Comments welcome!