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New photo studio


redwatch

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Hi guys,

Got a new photo studio to snap some pics of my girlfriends on-line jewelry store so I thought I would test it out on a watch. Definitely happy with the results. I will try out some other shots later this week.

Here is my Omega SMP. I think the color looks pretty good! Opinions are very welcome!

IMG_1121.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

Here's a few more shots done with the copy stand. The obvious benefit is that you can shoot straight on with the subject. Having the diffuse light to the sides lights the object evenly and minimizes reflections from the camera. Unfortunately, one of my bulbs burned out today, so I could only use one light - hence the shadow's to the left of the subject.

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It looks like you're getting lots of blown-out highlights. Are you sure you've set the light meter to the right setting? Try dropping it 1/3ev or 2/3ev and see what happens. :unsure:

Once you've locked in the settings on this rig, you're going to get some amazing shots. That Deville shot is superb.

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White balance setting is better. The DOF 3 pics up is the best. I think either the watch isn't perfectly flat, or something is at an angle in the last pic. It's hard with that copy stand to get things perfectly square (I have the same one), so it might be easier to stop it down for better DOF. If you're maxed out, that's where the true macro lenses help...or you can shoot farther back, and crop in Photoshop.

I agree with Pug, that Deville shot is smokin'.

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I just realized what I did differently. The first shot was set to aperture priority and it was set to f/22. That would explain the better depth of field. Once the batteries charge up on my camera, I will try going back to that. The other shots have all been in program mode and so everything is being set automatically by the camera. That should help a lot.

Thanks for the tips guys! I will keep on playing around. Now that i have a good reference point (the Deville shot), I know what to aim for.

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The other shots have all been in program mode and so everything is being set automatically by the camera.

Rule number one: Aperture Priority, every time. :victory:

If my selector was broken and stuck on Aperture Priority and broken in every other setting, I don't even know if I'd notice. :)

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Finally took some time to shoot some pics of my photo studio set-up. I have a large diffuser tent and a large copy stand for shooting horizontal shots straight on.

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Nice set....you're making me jealous!

Rule number one: Aperture Priority, every time. :victory:

If my selector was broken and stuck on Aperture Priority and broken in every other setting, I don't even know if I'd notice. :)

I'm with you on the AP A-.......

BTW: Got the Lady Pam today! I've got some cleaning up to do! :thumbsupsmileyanim:

Thanks!

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Guest ThePhilosopher

Nice setup - try f/11-f/16 I think it'll give you enough DOF (I could be wrong) and not have to worry about such a long shutter time or pump up the light output.

PS: Full manual FTW :p.

Edited by ThePhilosopher
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Now we're talking!!! Yup Aperature Priority.

BTW...I always wrestle with this...the reflection on the datemag (or in general). I've played around with trying to solve this. Try getting a white board or a black board (totally different effect) and position it in various places to cancel out the reflection in the key parts (in this case the datemag). That will bring things even closer to perfection.

The thing to remember is with the Deville shot, it works because of SELECTIVE DOF. You had things set for much shallower DOF which works artistically because of highlighting a selection of details, and the taxi adding interest and mood but fuzzy so not distracting.

With these face on Sub shots, it's a product shot, so stopping down for full DOF is more the goal rather than an artistic thing.

Thanks for posting this, it's good reading.

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Thanks folks! Your input as always is invaluable!

@Philosopher - will try the slightly lower F stop setting and see if that helps with the lighting. I need to get the other bulb fixed so the lighting is more even. I may pop out to the camera shop later today and pick up some new bulbs.

@Toad - good call on using a board to kill some of the reflections. I was wondering about that. The cyclops certainly makes it much more difficult to shoot a good sub shot!

@Trailboss - I noticed the same thing, but currently I am focusing more on the lighting and DOF and once I get that one figured out, I will give the watch a much deserved bath!

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Guest ThePhilosopher

Now we're talking!!! Yup Aperature Priority.

BTW...I always wrestle with this...the reflection on the datemag (or in general). I've played around with trying to solve this. Try getting a white board or a black board (totally different effect) and position it in various places to cancel out the reflection in the key parts (in this case the datemag). That will bring things even closer to perfection.

I'm not sure what your setup is like, but if you have a copystand similar to this try to fashion a piece of white or black foamcore that you could slide around the barrel of the lens somehow to minimize the reflections of the camera and such. I generally will use my ringflash for the same purpose.

Red, be careful with those bulbs (I'm not sure how much yours cost) but mine are $70 a piece (for the basic one) and no one in my city stocks them or any flashtubes really.

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