Watch service pricing? UK/EU

[fraggle42]

* waves at the regulars and newcomers *

Been a couple of years since I last had anything done with any of my watches apart from wearing them (and a couple of bits falling off).

What's the sort of average price that is being charged for plain service & clean nowadays?

 

Employment glitches mean I'm thinking about whether any of my hobbies could be pressed into topping up a pathetic pension for early retirement, and restarting my self training on watchsmithery is one such option.

 

[kernow]

Dunno. Most of mine go to Micky. You could try a PM to him with what you're looking for. 

[denimhead]

Good Morning Fraggle,

I think its fair to say that you would be a very valued UK source for watch servicing etc. As kernow states Micky is our Englishman in Finland so another EU based set of hands would be great. I'm sure he'd be happy to provide some guide line in terms of prices etc. Perhaps avoid the 7750 secs at 6 movements!!

[samuelramna]

Here is a good one...I just now posted this and it came up under the name 'samuelramna'  

automatico

 

"What's the sort of average price that is being charged for plain service & clean nowadays?"

It depends on:

1...automatic or manual wind

2...chronograph or not

3...with or without date or day/date

4...cheapo China movement or quality swiss etc movement

5...genuine watch or replica

6...vintage or modern model

Extra costs:

7...needs parts or not

8...parts available or not (usually not)

9...needing balance staff or hairspring work

Basic requirements:

10...good quality common tools

11...specialty tools

12...etc, etc.

　

A fair price is what customers are willing to pay...not what they are sometimes forced to pay because of few options for service (independents vs 'official' channels) and no parts or connections to get parts.

The bottom line is it takes a LOT of practice and more than a little bit of skill to work on these things (as you know) and a few major screw-ups can put you out of business if you are low on $$.  You also might need to be able to r/r different types of crystals...mineral glass/sapphire and, PA, ET, DT, PK etc acrylic crystals (GS designations) along with r/r pressed in and screwed in case tubes, fitting stems etc.  Vintage rolex crystals are mostly PHD (snap in) or PA (held on the case neck by a pressed on bezel).

I started working on watches as a hobby in the 1970s and learned the 'ins and outs' from three pros who were as good as it gets.  Besides knowing these guys, I have a natural mechanical aptitude, 20/15 vision, and a steady hand but it is still not nearly as easy as they made it seem and to this day I stay away from hairsprings if I can.

I left out the part about some customers being Absolute [censored], some that can never be satisfied, and some that will not pay their bill.  Now I patch up one of MY watches and sell it hoping to make a profit.  I no longer take in any repair work at all.  I learned my lesson the hard way.

Not to be discouraging, but you could probably make more $$ in a kiosk installing quartz watch batteries "While you wait".  

 

"Perhaps avoid the 7750 secs at 6 movements!!

Very good advice.

Edited November 4, 2016 by samuelramna

[fraggle42]

17 hours ago, samuelramna said:

Here is a good one...I just now posted this and it came up under the name 'samuelramna'  

automatico

 

"What's the sort of average price that is being charged for plain service & clean nowadays?"

It depends on:

1...automatic or manual wind

2...chronograph or not

3...with or without date or day/date

4...cheapo China movement or quality swiss etc movement

5...genuine watch or replica

6...vintage or modern model

Extra costs:

7...needs parts or not

8...parts available or not (usually not)

9...needing balance staff or hairspring work

Basic requirements:

10...good quality common tools

11...specialty tools

12...etc, etc.

　

A fair price is what customers are willing to pay...not what they are sometimes forced to pay because of few options for service (independents vs 'official' channels) and no parts or connections to get parts.

The bottom line is it takes a LOT of practice and more than a little bit of skill to work on these things (as you know) and a few major screw-ups can put you out of business if you are low on $$.  You also might need to be able to r/r different types of crystals...mineral glass/sapphire and, PA, ET, DT, PK etc acrylic crystals (GS designations) along with r/r pressed in and screwed in case tubes, fitting stems etc.  Vintage rolex crystals are mostly PHD (snap in) or PA (held on the case neck by a pressed on bezel).

I started working on watches as a hobby in the 1970s and learned the 'ins and outs' from three pros who were as good as it gets.  Besides knowing these guys, I have a natural mechanical aptitude, 20/15 vision, and a steady hand but it is still not nearly as easy as they made it seem and to this day I stay away from hairsprings if I can.

I left out the part about some customers being Absolute [censored], some that can never be satisfied, and some that will not pay their bill.  Now I patch up one of MY watches and sell it hoping to make a profit.  I no longer take in any repair work at all.  I learned my lesson the hard way.

Not to be discouraging, but you could probably make more $$ in a kiosk installing quartz watch batteries "While you wait".  

 

"Perhaps avoid the 7750 secs at 6 movements!!

Very good advice.

Thanks for your replies all.

 

Apologies for the mess of a reply, can't see how to get away from the WYSIWYG editor to edit the quoting properly

 

Anyway, yes, it would certainly be a case of walking before I try running, and I've seen enough budding watchsmiths pack it in because they just accepted far too much work and got overloaded and freaked out.

I'm curious about these two:-

4...cheapo China movement or quality swiss etc movement

5...genuine watch or replica

If it's purely a service, no parts needed, and assuming any rep movements are built to a reasonable standard so they're as easy to reassemble as a gen, why would the time to do the service vary?

Or are you varying the charge for the same amount of work to match expectations of gen and rep owners?

 

7750 secs at 6, hah, yes, I know what you mean. Got one which has been modded properly, and got another which has been done cheaply. I'd initially avoid anything that wasn't a bog standard movement.

 

Thanks,

 

[nikki6]

Few glitches lately guys, but the Boss has flushed the pipes, so hopefully no more hassles!

Micky@ssteel is a top modder, he has a great reputation and most brits use him!

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[samuelramna]

"I'm curious about these two:-

(Q1)  4...cheapo China movement or quality swiss etc movement

(Q2)  5...genuine watch or replica

(Q3)   If it's purely a service, no parts needed, and assuming any rep movements are built to a reasonable standard so they're as easy to reassemble as a gen, why would the time to do the service vary?

(Q4)   Or are you varying the charge for the same amount of work to match expectations of gen and rep owners?"

 

My posts are still coming up under the wrong name but I am still 'automatico'...far as I know.  

Addressing Q1 & Q3...It takes longer to service 'China junk' than swiss Eta etc.  Why?  Because much the CJ is basically hard to work on.  Date works on Miyota clones (NN, DG etc) are a pain for instance and the 3/4 plate construction is a real hassle.  They are made to sell, not to work on.  I have had so many apart that I am pretty fast on them but still do not like to work on them at all.  Imho the Seagull ST16 'magic lever' Miyota clone is the best of the bunch and the tried and true Seagull ST6/ST6Date is also OK but the date works are somewhat fragile.  The ST6 is made in the traditional manner with the autowind assembly screwed to a basic hand wind movement.  The Miyota clones and ST16 are 'integrated construction' with the autowind parts under the same plate that covers the train wheels.  The ST16 uses the Seiko type 'magic lever' type autowind device where the NN, DG etc use a reverser.  The Asian etaclones (2824/36) are better but need c/o more often than not when new because of poor QC and storage/assembly conditions, most parts are relatively hard to get.  Swiss Eta 2824\36 are relatively easy to work on and parts are easy to get.

Addressing Q2 & Q4...Many repair guys charge more for higher grade movements depending on price and availability of movement parts.  Flip a DG pallet fork into oblivion and you are out $1 or maybe nothing for a replacement...flip a rolex 1570 pallet fork and you are out $100.  Kill a DG hairspring and you are out $5 for a 'balance complete' from another member...kill a rolex 1570 hairspring and you are out $350 to $500 for a 'balance complete' from a seller who has you by the short hairs.  You are taking much more of a risk when working on expensive watches/movements.  It is easier to satisfy someone with a NN/DG/Seagull movement than a swiss Eta, omega, rolex etc...at least it should be in the real world if the NN/DG/Seagull owner understands what they have.