azbank Posted January 10, 2017 Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 Gentlemen, I recently bought 3 subs from Josh for various projects ( by the way his 1680 case is better than 5513 and the rest of them ). Naturally, all three watches came with bracelets, However! all three bracelets are really bad. 1. First of all, the extension system inside the clasp is horrible. What is a remedy? did anyone try to simply take it out and connect the bracelet straight to the clasp? 2. Secondly that end middle link which attaches to the end links, has this line cut don't know why, but it is a tell and it is annoying as it should not be there. What is your remedy for this? 3. Finally, what is the alternative source(s) for a good aftermarket bracelet for a 5513? Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lumbee Posted January 10, 2017 Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 Yuki has good bracelets, in my opinion. I'm not sure about the 20mm ones, but the 19mm for my AirKings are darn near perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marrickvilleboy Posted January 10, 2017 Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 No real good 93150 bracelet contenders to be honest. All have their flaws. Best to pick up a used genuine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickFlorida Posted January 11, 2017 Report Share Posted January 11, 2017 But the price difference is insane to go with gen. If the endlinks are bad and the clasp, isn't it cheaper to replace the clasp with gen. (200) and endlinks, etc? A gen bracelet is nice but nearly 800 dollars or more. 3 hours ago, lumbee said: Yuki has good bracelets, in my opinion. I'm not sure about the 20mm ones, but the 19mm for my AirKings are darn near perfect. If you look at the Yuki bracelet image from his website, doesn't it show the same line that runs across the connector to the endlinks? This means it's the same exact maker and flaws unless that is not the flaw he means. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azbank Posted January 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2017 Yes, the gen is too expensive, i thought maybe an aftermarket clasp or gen clasp, take one bracelet apart for parts and replace that end link, drill it through to accept fat springbars, add wso endlinks. I wonder if anyone did this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickFlorida Posted January 11, 2017 Report Share Posted January 11, 2017 I'm new but yeah, people use parts. I know you can buy good endlinks from wholesaleoutlet ( seller on eBay). But that does not replace the weird connecting link on the cartel with the line across it. So from reading the forums, it seems options are to find an old MBW bracelet, try to find and mix match parts, or a 800 dollar gen. What I don't understand is that with the giant world of Rolex replicas....How is only one source providing the same faulty 93150 bracelet to all the different sellers? That line on the connecting link clearly shows on the Yuki photos and comes on the cartel bracelet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted January 11, 2017 Report Share Posted January 11, 2017 "First of all, the extension system inside the clasp is horrible. What is a remedy? did anyone try to simply take it out and connect the bracelet straight to the clasp?" My Frankenstein 5512/13/1680 project watches are made to mimic late 1960s/early 1970s models and I use folded oyster 7836 bracelets from 'Mary'...should be 9315 but that is all they had. For the clasp, I use older model clasp caps with 8 holes in a row without a dive extension with notches crimped at the end to keep the inks under the clasp cap (like some genuines). Later models did not come with folded bracelets so this is not an option with them. I have seen quite a few older genuine submariners over the years with the dive extensions removed. If you do not need them, they are just in the way. "Secondly that end middle link which attaches to the end links, has this line cut don't know why, but it is a tell and it is annoying as it should not be there. What is your remedy for this?" I change the mid links that connect to the spring bars at the watch to a hollow rounded type and do away with the 'figure 8' links that came on the bracelets...and go with WSO 580 hoods. "A gen bracelet is nice but nearly 800 dollars or more." When you blow that much on a bracelet, it takes a lot of the fun out of owning a replica in the first place...imho. Besides that, you see lots of replica bracelets/bracelet parts on older genuine watches so replica bracelets/parts abound in the real world. We seem to worry more about genuine bracelets that the average watch guy...average, not an All Original! All Genuine! rolexnut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickFlorida Posted January 11, 2017 Report Share Posted January 11, 2017 (edited) Automatico, can you please elaborate how you changed the midlinks that connect to the springbars ? In other words, if someone starts out with just the cartel 93150 bracelet, they purchase new endlinks from WSO, but where can we find the connecting link you also change out? I think I found some "connecting pieces" online so that may solve the problem. Cheers. Thank you. Edited January 11, 2017 by RickFlorida Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted January 11, 2017 Report Share Posted January 11, 2017 I had a few oyster type no name bracelets with end links like I needed so I used them. They were the right size, about 8.7mm wide and 6.5mm long. The tops are gently rounded and the undersides are made like a 'figure 8'. If the bottom side is not made like an 8 to keep it in place, it can turn and lock the bracelet against the hoods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azbank Posted January 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2017 Thank you for your comments guys. Yuki bracelets are not perfect either, they also have that line through on the end link, and as automatico has rightly mentioned it is not fun to put in 800 or more on the bracelet. I would rather spend a fraction of that on the ETA movement. So, I think I will try to frankenstein a bracelet out of different ones I have and cut our that extension system from the clasp, see how it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickFlorida Posted January 11, 2017 Report Share Posted January 11, 2017 Star time sells connector pieces that might help. I may try it and report. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted January 12, 2017 Report Share Posted January 12, 2017 "Star time sells connector pieces that might help." If it is p/n RMOSS-BC104 it is the wrong part, it goes between the dive extension and bracelet. You might be able to grind it down to work because the thinner part is the same width as a mid link. Here is the catch...the wide end is made for a 1.0mm press pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickFlorida Posted January 12, 2017 Report Share Posted January 12, 2017 After inspecting my cartel 93150 tonight ( I haven't worn it yet), I can see why you guys say it's not much good. At first, I thought you guys say replace the clasp because the coronet is not good....Now I think it's because the clasp does not close well. I noticed my clasp is a bit sloppy and loose. Kind of like the cartel bezel assembly. I know this is beating a dead horse, but is there really no high quality replica bracelet being made today? You would think in some back alley shop in Italy or Switzerland someone is making high quality signed bracelets. 47 minutes ago, automatico said: "Star time sells connector pieces that might help." If it is p/n RMOSS-BC104 it is the wrong part, it goes between the dive extension and bracelet. You might be able to grind it down to work because the thinner part is the same width as a mid link. Here is the catch...the wide end is made for a 1.0mm press pin. Thank you. I noticed there are two different connectors so maybe it's the other one they sell? If you go to their Rolex clasps page, you'll see two kinds of connector pieces . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted January 12, 2017 Report Share Posted January 12, 2017 If it is p/n RMOSS-BC89, this link goes between the clasp and bracelet at the flip lock end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted January 12, 2017 Report Share Posted January 12, 2017 On 1/11/2017 at 4:46 AM, azbank said: Yes, the gen is too expensive, i thought maybe an aftermarket clasp or gen clasp, take one bracelet apart for parts and replace that end link, drill it through to accept fat springbars, add wso endlinks. I wonder if anyone did this. i did exactly that on an mbw bracelet. also used a dremel to cut a line in the end link connector. the mbw is still far from perfect but a bit closer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alligoat Posted January 12, 2017 Report Share Posted January 12, 2017 But alas, 93150 MBWs are no longer available! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickFlorida Posted January 13, 2017 Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 Why not? If they are the best replica 93150 bracelets, why is someone not using that same maker or tooling again? I don't get this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted January 13, 2017 Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 19 hours ago, RickFlorida said: Why not? If they are the best replica 93150 bracelets, why is someone not using that same maker or tooling again? I don't get this. i wouldnt say theyre the best. the links are too thin and polished, the clasp is from a 93250 stamped 93150, and the end link connector does not accept gen bars with out mods and needed the dremel mod to look more correct like two pieces Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nanuq Posted January 13, 2017 Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 I approached this a little different. But my solution is the expen$ive way to do it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan71 Posted January 13, 2017 Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 Maybe I'm wrong ,but buy the entire startime bracelet (I read only 12,95$) and use only the final endlink connector ? It seem the 'solid' connector not 'coevo' with the period but better that the weak/poor cartel connector ..It accept 2mm spring bar ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan71 Posted January 14, 2017 Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 Edit: 12,95 $ is only the buckle( the endlink ?) item MOA-3C(SUB), but the entire bracelet cost 75$ :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted January 14, 2017 Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 "i wouldn't say they're the best. the links are too thin and polished, the clasp is from a 93250 stamped 93150, and the end link connector does not accept gen bars with out mods and needed the dremel mod to look more correct like two pieces" True. Another pretty good bracelet came on some 'noobmariners'. Many had thick links with hollow mid links and good screws. The main faults are: 1...they are SEL 2...have a half link 3...have wrong clasp marking/dive extension 4...marked 93250. The SEL part is fairly easy to fix if you can pull the SEL links apart and substitute a proper last link to be used with hoods, same for the half link. Find a good dive extension and clasp and away you go. Not easy at all as I have done it a time or two and you also need a bunch of 'repjunk' to complete the project...clasp 'Z' blades, dive extensions, links etc. The Z blades need to be changed not only because of the 93250 stamping but because most had tabs bent over the hinge pin in the Z bar where vintage bracelets had the pin pressed in. It's a lot of trouble but maybe one possible fix...of a sort. The last mid link that connects to the spring bar...you can use a solid link if necessary and just drill it out to 2mm. They are solid but this will usually not be noticed and they will also keep the bracelet from folding under like can happen with some hollow links. "But alas, 93150 MBWs are no longer available!" Along with the watches (afaik). Sure would like to know who, when, and where the cases really came from. If it was the guy 'Paul' got them from (from the guy's wife), the guy must have had a pretty good setup in order to make them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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