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1680 GEN Crystal Worth It?


tinpusher

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I'm curious about the 1680 and it's crystal. Is it really worth spending $150+ on a GEN crystal when there are replacement T-127 crystals all over the web for $25 or less? I've read some info about a "Black Hole" and witnessed it with a 1680 that I had briefly last year. As I begin this new build, just thought I would solicit some info from all of you experts that know way more than me. 

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Rolex crystals are probably clearer when new than replacements, whether or not it's worth 125 USD difference is up to you. I will say a genuine "Top Hat" Crystal for the 1680 is outstanding. None of the replacement or aftermarket crystals can come close to it.

The "Black hole" is not relevant to the older non AR Crystals. They don't have any "Black hole" effect. The "Black hole" is a phenomenal of the later sapphire crystals like the one on the 116710 GMT IIC. These crystals had no AR on the crystal overall, except for the area under the cyclops. When you turn the watch in certain ways, the cyclops blacks out, thus the "Black hole. Much easier to read the date as the AR cuts down the reflections.


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I have lots of experience with 1680 crystals, gen and aftermarket. The last couple I bought were MIchael Young and they were VERY nice. Fit my gen perfectly and glittered like God's own bling.

I'd avoid the really inexpensive ones, they look "dead" in comparison, like a piece of plastic. Gen and MY have tons of colorful internal light refraction so they look "alive".

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Awesome! Pardon my ignorance, where might I source a Michael Young crystal?

8 minutes ago, Nanuq said:

I have lots of experience with 1680 crystals, gen and aftermarket. The last couple I bought were MIchael Young and they were VERY nice. Fit my gen perfectly and glittered like God's own bling.

I'd avoid the really inexpensive ones, they look "dead" in comparison, like a piece of plastic. Gen and MY have tons of colorful internal light refraction so they look "alive".

 

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Gen 1680 Plexi will definitely be a fantastic upgrade. These can sometimes be had for around 125 - 150 euro so I´d say if you intend to build a nice watch with a beautiful dial...make sure you can clearly see it. Dial is the most dominant factor in a watch :-) just my 2c

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Everyone knows this by now...

Keep in mind a genuine crystal may not fit a replica watch because the case neck and crystal retaining bezel have to be the same spec as oem.  For this reason I usually go with aftmkt crystals on project watches...but this in itself can be a minefield of problems as everyone knows.

On fitting crystals:  When you find a combination that works...measure the case neck, crystal OD (after it has been pushed down on the case neck), and the crystal retainer bezel ID with a precision digital caliper and write them all down for reference.  If the crystal is a snug fit on the case neck it only takes about .1mm, .2mm or so difference between the crystal OD and bezel ID to make it tight.  A correctly fitting crystal should turn on the case neck with some resistance but not fall off.  If the crystal is a tight fit over the case neck it may crack.  If a crystal is loose on the case neck, it will be hard to determine if the crystal OD will work with the bezel ID without pressing the bezel down over it to see how it goes.  The crystal retaining bezel should slip down over the crystal skirt without chattering or popping when pressing it on...if it chatters or pops, look for cracks in the crystal skirt between the case neck and bezel with a 10x loupe to be sure it is Ok.  If the bezel can be pressed down over the crystal by hand, it is too loose and may work above water but the whole shebang can be knocked off fairly easily.  Whole shebang = both bezels and crystal, sometimes including a hand or two.

No glue.   :nono:     Except in an emergency.

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I tend to prefer Gen crystals in the builds I have as keepers mostly T19 prefer them as slimmer profile my 1680 has Gen and the look is much better than aftermarket ones I've seen


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