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Looking for best quality replica Submariner with blue face (either gold or two tone)


JLT1978

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Hi everyone,

I am looking for some advice here as it looks like many of you have this exact watch.  I am still really new to this forum and am trying to understand as much as I can before purchasing.

I asked about this in another unrelated thread, so thought I would create a new post to make it clearer.

I am looking to buy a blue faced Submariner and I want it to be as high quality and close to genuine as possible.  I am having trouble deciding between all gold and two toned and have a few questions.

1) on these replica watches, does the gold flake off?  Am I better off going for two tone if I am going to wear this to work everyday and use it a lot?

2) I am having a lot of trouble telling why certain versions of the same watch are more expensive than one another and which one to buy.  For instance, this is $366 http://www.puretimewatch.pw/rolex/submariner/rolex-submariner-16613-ln-ss-and-yg-blue-dial-on-ss-and-yg-bracelet-eta2836-sku5102.html and this is $938 http://www.intime01.co/rollie/2686-submariner-bp-116613lb-blue-ss-yg-wrapped-swiss-eta-2836.html.  Both come from dealers I have read about on this site, but what am I getting for $938 that I won't be getting for $366?  I will pay the higher price if it is worthwhile as I am looking to buy something for the long term.

Thanks again!

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Noticed I made a mistake in my last post.

I am looking for a 116613.  Here is the Puretime version at $428 http://www.puretimewatch.pw/rolex-submariner-116613-ln-blue-ceramic-sku5456.html versus the Intime version at $938 http://www.intime01.co/rollie/2686-submariner-bp-116613lb-blue-ss-yg-wrapped-swiss-eta-2836.html.

I was hoping some more experienced than me could advise on the price difference, as well as any quality differences and suggestions.  

Thanks so much!

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presidentwatch - that is beautiful!  Is that a replica and if so where did you purchase it from and which model was it?

sogeha - thanks for the reading material.  So what I get out of it is that the "wrapped" in the intime version is preferred.  Is that right and is that why the $500 higher price?  

Does anyone have either of these and have any suggestions or advice?

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Yes basically, plated is a thin coating, wrapped is quite thick relatively speaking and more hard wearing. You will quickly find in this hobby that you can always spend more money. Plating won't do? Buy wrapped. Wrapped won't do? Buy aftermarket solid gold parts, that won't do, buy gen. 

There are a couple of guys rocking two tone Rolex builds with solid gold mid links, bezel and crown. Genuine dial, hands and crystal. Depends how you look at it. Ludicrously expensive replica, indistinguishable from genuine at less cost or an absorbing hobby. Possibly all of those :-)

It is worth taking time to figure out exactly what you want from a particular rep. Sometimes a hundred Dollars will do all you want and sometimes only the very best is going to make you happy. Just buy what makes you happy rather than trying to impress others would be my advice.

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Thanks again very much.

I plan to wear this watch everyday for work and so what I am looking for is something that obviously looks great and works well, but that will be durable.

I am OK with spending the $1,000 on the intime version as long as it is high quality and will last.  I was just wondering if the price difference versus the puretime watch was justified and whether the durability would be considerably better with the intime version.

It seems like most replicas purchased on here are more in line with the puretime than the intime cost and just wanted to make sure I was not getting ripped off and paying more for nothing.

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"I am having trouble deciding between all gold and two toned."

An all goldtone watch will usually be plated and the gold will quickly wear away on sharp edges and bracelet links.

"I plan to wear this watch everyday for work and so what I am looking for is something that obviously looks great and works well, but that will be durable."

Two tone will hold up better.

"There are a couple of guys rocking two tone Rolex builds with solid gold mid links, bezel and crown. Genuine dial, hands and crystal."

I put a few sapphire 36mm DJs together with genuine dials, solid gold bezels/mid links/crown/swiss etas etc and they are as rugged and 'handsome' as genuine.  High gold prices have made them go from around $700 or $800 to $1500+ though.  I bought a nice tutone 15053 with 22 link jubilee for $1200 a while back so a genuine watch can be a better deal if you shop around.  Submariners are a different animal though.  One big problem is there are not many (any?) aftmkt gold parts for the newer ceramic bezel submariners...bezels, SEL bracelets and glidelock clasps are going to be very expensive.  Otoh DJ project watches are quite a bit cheaper than 16613 type submariners because DJ dials, bezels and bracelets are easier to find and cheaper to buy.  ST has 18k submariner bezels for around $400 and a ss/14k bracelet is close to $800 (it is hard to tell 14k from 18k if the 14k color is made to match 18k). 

So...a 16613 project could still be 'affordable'...maybe $2500 with a good case and swiss Eta but that is still a lot of $$.  You might look at it this way...if you wore it for 10 years with one $150 movement/gasket service figured in, you are looking at maybe $125 a year (only a little bit over $10 a month!) assuming the watch will sell for close to $1500 at the end of the run.  That is not bad at all.  In 10 years you would probably go through 3 plated $428 watches or two $938 'wrapped' watches that would be worth virtually nothing at the end of the run.   :pimp:

 

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Thanks for all of your advice!  This is hugely helpful.

automatico - I don't think I have the time or passion at this point in time to build my own watch, but it is awesome that you and other members do.  Pretty cool!

presidentwatch - your watch looks beautiful!  So are you saying that if you were me you would go with the cheaper option and feel comfortable it would last and that it is just a small aesthetic difference for the $500 extra?

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I agree 100 % with automatic. First off for everyday use even a genuine gold is not a great idea. 18K gold is soft. It will wear. Of course it's gold all the way through so it won't show, but over time things will get thin, the bracelet will get stretchy (Faster than a S/S bracelet) and replacing gold parts are really expensive. So from that I would go with the S/S ,gold TT version. Personally, I would buy the cheaper version and see if it's "singing to you". Hate to see you spend a ton of money and then decide it's not for you.

If you really like the watch then you might start thinking about upgrading. The cheapest and easiest to do today is the 16613. Lots of gen dials, bezel inserts and crowns around, aftermarket 14K bezels and with a good case and bracelet you are in business.  On the other hand, the newer 11613 is a lot newer watch, thus the parts are not as available and are more expensive. I have no idea what a gen insert and dial would cost you. Also a TT bracelet is not even available as and aftermarket at a reasonable price. So, if you were to build a really high end 11613, it would probably cost you twice what a comparable 16613 would cost. Mymanmatt  built me a pretty nice 16613 a couple of years ago. We started out with what I thought was a fairly good 16613 rep. NOT!! by the time we finished, the only thing left was the bracelet and movement. Mine has a gen dial, gen crystal, crown and bezel insert. aftermarket 14K bezel and an aftermarket case correctly engraved by jmb. Matt plated the midlinks so no S/S is showing. I would expect that including the cost of the 1st watch, I have under 2K in the watch.

Here is mine

Genuine 1.jpgGenuine 3.jpg

 

  

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Thanks to all of you for the advice - massively helpful!

panerai 153 - gorgeous watch!

I am definitely convinced now to go with the two toned versus all gold based on all of your expertise.

The question now is wrapped or the $500 cheaper option.  It seems like on this there are differing opinions.

I love the look of the watch on the intime site (both versions), and will wear it every day as long as the reality of it matches the pictures.  Some of you have said that the wrapped will last longer than the cheaper version.  I guess what I am wondering is, what do you think the shelf life of each would be if I wear each every day?  That is really how I will make my decision since they both look good.

Sorry for all the questions, and I promise when I buy it I will post pictures for all of you to critique!

Thanks as always!

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Just to make it more complicated, there is a Gold wrapped 11613 for sale over on RepGeek. Guy wants 730.00 USD. About 200.00 less than new. May be worth a look.

AFA the wear factor, it's impossible to predict how long either will last. Everyday to one person is not everyday to someone else. Are you working in a hot environment that generates sweat, or are you in and a/c office with a long sleeve shirt on? What I will say is this, the gold wrapped is going to last longer than the plated if both were worn under the same conditions.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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Thanks again everyone for your valuable input!

I have decided to go with the "wrapped" version, but after doing more research I have a couple of other questions I would love some advice on!

1) What are the main differences between the BP and Noob versions of this watch and which would you recommend?  Intime is selling the BP wrapped version and Watchoutlet the Noob wrapped version.

2) I like the look of the watch with diamond markers.  Do any of you have replicas with these, and if so, how do they look/last?  I am thinking of trying to find a dealer that could add this to the watch but want to make sure it is worth it first.

Thanks as always!  

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