All Activity

Welcome back. Sadly, we lost Bob (Nanuq) recently. There may be others, but I only recently returned myself, so I am not really up on the social aspects of RWG.

Hi everyone. I know it's been some years since my last posting, but I wanted to check in to let everyone know that LHOOQ is still alive, healthy, and still in possession of all of his beloved project watches. Maybe I'm being an egomaniac, or maybe I know that this is a pretty tight-knit community of good, helpful people. I was spurred to write this post due to certain recent events. Recently someone recognized the dial on one of my few Panerais, bolstering my belief that the rep crowd is so much keener-eyed than your average WIS. He pointed out that he was almost certain that my dial was one of a small run produced by one legendary German Paneristi. It was nice to chat about this after we'd established our rep bona fides to each other, but then I learned that the German in question, Rolli, had died five years ago. And I felt terrible. Rolf wasn't a close friend, but we had exchanged many messages in the past and I always appreciated his rigorous, crabby pursuit of the perfect finish, the perfect lume mix. Who else have we lost, and who else will we lose, and never find out about? Two unfinished items pulled me back in: 1) To fix a jmb-cased 1016 project that has never quite worked right ever since I took it to my watchsmith in the Philippines for assembly, and 2) To finish a Daytona project that really started 12 years ago. (80% of the parts were just sitting in a drawer.) I couldn't have done either of these without good old alligoat, who took those parts to the right people, and even tossed in a few from his own collection. (BIG parts, at that!) And that's why I have this lovely black-dialed 6239 sitting in the pile. I can't promise a full-on return to the rep world, or that I'll be especially active on the forums again, but I will do my best to respond to PMs. Especially now that my access to the original LHOOQ account is borked, making my stuffed inbox irrelevant! Quick thank-yous and hellos to the following: alligoat: I owe him at least a couple of steak dinners by now! jmb: He smoked me a brisket! Unfortunately my current job doesn't take me to Texas as often as my last one. Chiman12: Met him once all too briefly in Calgary so many years ago. The MBW 5512 that prepared for me still gets a lot of praise, and unsolicited offers. Akira: Spent an afternoon with him in Arnhem last summer. I would have gone to see him in Germany, but that was a bridge too far. (No, really, we were in Arnhem.) Donerix: I'd love to catch up with this strapping man of mystery again! ubiquitous: My original inspiration for all this extravagant foolishness. And a top guy. There are so many others. Please don't be upset if I forgot to mention you here.

Looks fantastic!!

Collector's item, T.C. new condition, only worn a few times around the house

62 MAS today

Horo is right. Vintage Omega Rules: Rule 1: Nothing Fits. The part might look right, but it usually won't fit. Rule 2: Many 'front loader' dress Seamasters have rusty movements. I call them 'Rustmasters'. Q...How do they get rusty? A...The two piece crown wobbles, the gasket wears out, and water gets inside. Rule 3: Stay away from them unless they are complete, running, and oem spec...or cheap as dirt. Something else...on many models the crystal helps hold the bezel on. The crystals are 'mushroomed' at the top. If that is not bad enough, most no longer have oem spec crystals (no 'shroom top) so the bezel falls off.

Has anyone sourced a 43mm Aquaracer blue dial ever? Id be open to a 41MM but I would like a blue dial still, any ideas?

"I want to share my latest project. Not ready yet but gives a clue how it comes out." Looks like it's off to a very good start! My abandoned '1675/16750' project from 10 or 15 years ago, in shady B&W... In living color... Still nos, came with new Swiss ETA 2836/Asian 24H conversion. Abandoned because...closed 6/9, crystal is too tall, crown is 6.0mm, not 5.3mm, dial is fair but not properly signed (guess where). Would make a better 16750 than 1675 with the 28,800 2836. Probably a vintage submariner 1680 case. Better off with a Raffles case. Otoh...bezel turns both ways, no clicks, bezel insert is Ok and mounts flat in bez body, good spacing on lug holes, Ok to drill them out. Did I ever get started on it? Not yet. Will I ever finish it? Probably not. Crown pulled out to stop it from running. Pics taken 4-12-24.

"5513 Comex with gen dial"

Another really excellent review! Thanks!!!

Some refinishing on the Case,install a gen Tube and 5,5 mm Crown and a good bracelet. Gesendet von meinem 23078PND5G mit Tapatalk

For reference - 5513 Comex with gen dial

Tribal's RED 1680😎

Looks great! What is left to do?

New fine project!👏👏

I'm planning the same build, only I can't decide between the Yuki or Mochacha dial. Yuki dials are fine, the prices are Ok, and I would like to have one for my SD except... "Flat rate shipping cost: USD 48.00 to worldwide." It would be Ok if ordering 4 or 5 dials...unless they try to charge $48 for each dial. This Higher and Higher priced 'hobby' is beginning to $Burn Me Out$.

Don't ask for me about... Ask for Mr. Tribal😎

I got both, Mochacha is nice too but more expensive.... For the bugs the Yuki is really nice[emoji3577] Gesendet von meinem 23078PND5G mit Tapatalk

Hello Gang, I want to share my latest project. Not ready yet, but gives a clue how it comes out.[emoji3577] It's mostly Raffles, reshaped the really big CG's inside out. Dial and Hands are also Raffles. Better Plexi T-116, good flattop Date and gen Springbars. Needs a gen Tube and 5,5mm Crown and a good bracelet.

Regarding uncommon vintage submariners... This is not about the milsub, but a '5513' type case can also be used to put a 'pre COMEX 5514' submariner together if anyone does not want to hunt down the $$ milsub case, dial/hands and bez insert. I stuck a couple 'precoms' together using '5513' cases and non-operating H2 valves. The fixed spring bars were made using stainless steel rod stock similar to eBay item 284520669214 or a bracelet can be used. A short piece of SS rod can be polished on one end and pressed into a hole drilled in the case for the He valve: I'll leave the fixed spring bar installation details out, but it was not too bad. Imho, a bracelet is a better choice for a '5514' anyway. A regular '5513' dial or COMEX logo dial can be used along with a standard bezel insert. I would like to have a milsub but already had the '5514' COMEX parts. My COMEX dials are not too hot, but I already had them too. rolex 5514 - Search Images (bing.com)

Case looks good. Although the ‘20’ in the insert is also incorrect. Just decide whether you want a: 5513 circa 1972 onwards 5513 with 5517 engraving on the lug aka double reference - 1975 onwards? 5517 - 1977 onwards? and match the serial you want accordingly. you also want to consider whether you want W10 (army/SAS) or 0552 (navy/SBS) engravings. For my project I’m using VN dial and 5517 case, Jensen hands, and a CAC insert w/ correct ‘20.’ I’m just waiting to source a correct hacking 1570 from the same period.

Appreciate your feedback. What do you think of the phong cases (images above)?