Leaderboard

When are you going to start selling bart. Your builds are looking amazing. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I don't think it's necessary to beat a dead horse and write a comprehensive review of Skyland as RWG Breitling section archive is FULL of them. Flaws This rep came out in '08 and there's nothing left to say. The "biggest" flaw is the lume application on '1, '2 and '4 markers. The fact is that you either get your Skyland rep with those markers badly or moderately screwed up. My watch definitely belongs to the latter category. The dots are very reasonable and the misalignment is almost impossible to see with naked eye. Rest of the markers are pretty much "rep perfect". Sure there are other flaws but they're very insignificant. The grey dial was actually lighter than I thought. Maybe the member pics are often contrasted or photographed in insufficient lighting? Factories used the grey one as an example so I guess the color is pretty close to the gen? I have never owned a grey dial watch before so this was welcome variation. Why v2? I asked around a few veteran members and a few Breitling enthusiasts in the community, and they all said the same: "v2 is the best version, get that one". The initial batches came with bad movements but mine has one from the newer production run. A decent one, according to Importr. Runs smoothly and has good PR. v3 is very good replication as well and has some advantages over v2. I don't bother to list them as Yodap has already written an excellent guide of the different versions. You can view it here. It would be interesting to hear different views on this matter, especially from people who have owned both. I guess you can't go wrong with either version. The size issue? Yes, Skyland is a big watch. Very thick and massive. But if you have a large wrist I would say you can pull it off. It's huge but not ridiculous by any means. This is how it looks on a '8 wrist. (Also notice how amazingly shiny the bracelet is after heavy Unipol metal polishing paste & car wax treatment. I spent a lot of time to clean up this watch and the results were very satisfactory. The bracelet shines like a mirror.) Everyone is familiar with the Steelfish. And it's big but not overly so. Skyland is almost the same size but Fish wears a bit smaller because it's thinner. But I don't think the difference is that big, really. If Fish looks good on you, I think you're good to go with Skyland. How about comparing it to Rolex Explorer II? Well... like I said, Skyland is a big watch. I disagree with people who say that it's impossible to wear smaller watches after getting used to XXL ones. I have no problem wearing my Explorer II after Skyland, it doesn't feel too small at all. Just different. Variety is the spice of life. Do I like it? That's the main question for us all, isn't it? It doesn't matter if the rep model is popular if it's not a watch for you. I just recently reviewed the beautiful and hugely popular graphite BCE and it didn't grab me at all. To be honest, I wasn't sure about Skyland, either. It always looked a bit clumsy and maybe even a bit plain, boring. The dial doesn't have the amazing "quillouche" that Steelfish has, and the the exaggerated thickness and polished bracelet made it look almost tasteless in my eyes. But on the other hand, that's exactly where the attraction is: Skyland is a bit gross and definitely very "Breitlingsque". I really like this new style of Pro bracelet and the recessed SELs combined with very high lugs create this watch a massive, masculine look. I would never call it a "beautiful watch" but Skyland has some sort of weird, unexplainable charm. Funny how I didn't like the polished bracelet on Navitimer and BCE at all, but find the Skyland bracelet very attractive. But then again the Blacksteel version doesn't do anything for me, and Skyland on a leather strap (which seems to be very popular combo) kills this watch completely, imho. I'm a steel man through and through. Different strokes... Summary I wanted another Breitling and I need at least some variation in my collection. Skyland is different enough, but still very much "my kind of sports watch". Andreww, Mickey Padge, P4GTR and others who said that I'd like this watch were right. I don't know why it took me almost 2 years to realize it. As I said, the only flaw worth mentioning is the lume at '1, '2 and '4 but even those are excellent on my watch (compared to average rep dials). The dial looks excellent unless you take a macro photograph of it. Untreated rep braclet felt really lousy, and even after heavy treatment (which improved it 200%) it's not like the gen Pro2 bracelet, which is actually one of the nicest bracelets out there. But it's very good rep bracelet when treated properly. I can't stress this enough... you HAVE to oil and polish it. The end result was good enough for me. If I ever want a perfect Skyland I'm sure I'll find one from TZ or WUS sales forums. Special thanks to my friend Importr. He said that the watch "was in excellent condition". He never mentioned that the new watch was brand new, in plastics... and a good rep example to boot. Once again it got proven: best reps come from fellow RWG veteran members... perfect QC, usually picked up from dealer previews of the actual watch, etc. One of the best reps ever and one of my best rep purchases ever... a keeper for sure. Thanks again!

Just wanted to share this beauty with you. I never thought I was into gold watches but when I came across the kit, I decided to give it a go. Now that is it completed, boy do I love this watch! Specs: - TC case with amazing work by dbane. I seriously love the finish of this case. - Gen dial - Gen hands - Gen 18k bezel - Gen insert - Gen 18k crown - Gen 18k two tone bracelet 93153 - Gen crystal - Gen retainer ring and washers - Hybrid yuki3135 with bunch of gen parts - Gen date wheel As always built by my good friend @misiekped Enjoy Some pics next to my coworkers gen 116613

Thank you my friend [emoji1303] [emoji632]

The pictures, pretty as they are, do not do these dials justice.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Get in contact with@legend mate, he's able to help you Sent from my wooden drums via Tupperware

Are yuki movements still available? Congrats on a fantastic piece! Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk

That's a serious piece, but I still prefer your double red.

Great work! Stunning watch!!

Another awesome build. You must have an unbelievable gen parts selection to keep doing these high end builds. I agree dbane's case work is exceptional. Best I have ever seen. I like his case work better than my gens. With those two guys working on a watch you know it's going to be awesome. Congrats man this is a beauty [emoji106]

Serious franken build! Looks perfect. Mike is a great watch smith. Congrats man that is a nice piece [emoji322]

I agree with you I've been learning a lot from the veterans 62xx experts that have been kind enough to educate us on their builds and what's possible and what's good. It's rare to find a community that likes to share and make this hobby fun for everyone [emoji4] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You always have the sickest watches! [emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Relumed/aged the dial myself:

I found this

Please do. Grab a train in the morning from Hua Lamphong train station to Ayutthaya for a few bucks. Meet one of the many guides over there to drive you around in his tuktuk and continue your journey by nighttrain to Chiang Mai. Worth!

382, rubber, hurricane matthew.

You must sell me this !! Lol that is beautiful !!

You'd love the fishing here. Those small lakes are loaded with fat Grayling. But the mosquitos will eat you alive!

I had to recondition some Twinlocks for various projects & I thought others might find a tutorial useful. The Problem The spring action that ejects the crown from the case tube when the crown is unscrewed for winding/time-setting is not working, the crown feels like it is slipping during winding, or you are unable to fit a stem because the tube shaft is damaged or the threading stripped In either case, your options are to replace the crown, recondition the crown's internal components or transplant them from another crown. Once the crown is disassembled & the individual components are cleaned & inspected, you can then decide whether they can be reconditioned or whether you will need to replace them (I am not aware of a source for replacements for any of these components, so transplanting is the only real option - note that while the tube shafts may be interchangeable between like crowns, the shaft diameters often differ between the various crown versions, which may require refitting of case tubes & gaskets). Crown Disassembly To disassemble the crown, secure (snug, not tight - too tight & you will deform the shaft) the tube shaft in a vice (a pin vice will also work) & unscrew (counter-clockwise) the crown cap from the tube shaft. In most cases, with the tube shaft secured, you will be able to unscrew the crown by hand. If not, use a pair of rubber-jawed pliers (if you use metal-jawed pliers, be careful not to scratch or damage the crown's surface) After the crown is separated from the tube shaft, you can remove the inner plunger & spring assembly (I needed to transplant the spring assembly from 1 Twinlock over to another, so what you see below are the components from 2 Twinlocks) Tapping a Stripped Stem Hole If the stem hole threads are stripped, you may be able to rethread them with a Crown Reamer. This is essentially just a tiny tap that you screw into the hole to freshen the threading. Fortunately, in this case, it was successful The Cleaned/Reconditioned Parts Ready for Reassembly When reassembling, do not overtighten the tube shaft into the crown - hand-tighten (with the tube shaft secured in a vice) only The Reassembled Brevet Crown

Hi everyone, I just went through tapping a Silix 6538 case to accept Athaya's 8mm Brevet crown. The cases needed to be drilled first and then needed to be tapped to accept the crown. Hope some of you find this useful Tools & Parts: - Silix 5510/6538 case - Rat tail file - Table Vise - Cordless Drill (>7.8volt) - Lubricant for metal cutting - Tap Wrench - 3.5mm Cobalt Drill Bit - M4x0.35mm Tap First step is to remove the existing tube (look how tiny that Silix tube looks!). I used a rat tail file to grip the inner tube. Once you've got a good grip, simply unscrew counter-clockwise. Voila! Next, you secure the case in the table vise. Lube the hole where the tube was and use the 3.5mm Cobalt drill bit with your cordless drill. I used my 7.8v first, but wasn't as effective so I used my 20v. Had to be patient but wasn't difficult at all. Drill all the way through. Be sure to clean off any burrs. You can use that same rat tail file from earlier. Now you need to put that M4 tap onto the tap wrench. Make sure you get the 0.35mm pitch! 0.7mm are more common, but they won't work! I've purchased mine from Merlintools on Ebay for $12 per. Get a couple while you're at it. I couldn't photograph since both my hands were occupied, but once the tap bites onto the case you do a 1 turn clock-wise and then 1/2 turn counter clock-wise. By going counter clock-wise you're removing the excess steel. Athaya tubes are pretty long so I went all the way through the case. Now you should be able to hand screw that new tube in most of the way. Towards the end I used that rat tail file again to tighten all the way down. NOTE: if you have a choice, use the triangular file. Cone shaped are very difficult to remove from the tube because it bites more area on the tube. And there we go BONUS: So we know 3.5mm Cobalt and an M4x0.35mm tap is needed for the 8mm Brevet Athaya crown and tube. For Rolex Explorer 1016s to accept the 6mm gen crown and tube, you'll need to drill out the case using 0.110" or #35 first and use the M3x0.35mm tap. If you aren't up for it, jmb is your go to TC 16610 to gen tube seems to have the same diameter so drilling doesn't seem necessary. It would use the same tap as the 1016, M3x0.35mm. See here: https://www.replica-watch.info/vb/sh...ll-this-myself Hope this was useful! Good luck!