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Do you remember me? I joined this forum and TRC because of an issue with you many years ago, when you could not supply but had been paid, PayPal ruled in my favor but your account was empty, it was only when another UK dealer helped out that I got my money back!

Enjoying my late 60s OEM 5513

TC 93250 V5 bracelet on Caddell 25-295-C Rouge Gen 93250 (LT3) bracelet on Gen 16610 V-series sans insert. I visited TC 93250 V3 bracelet maker several times from last December until early this month for the development of TC 93250 V5 bracelet and clasp. Members have reported TC 93250 V4 maker were able to make the improvement on the coronet stamp on the clasp but did not possess the quality and skill for the bracelet portion as the TC 93250 V3 maker from China. I was able to persuade the V3 bracelet maker to make proper improvement on the coronet, marrying the merits of V3's SEL and bracelet workmanship with V4's coronet. However, the bracelet maker still wouldn't make the engravings in the SEL trench. Sterile SEL doesn't bother me too much. On a gen it wasn't meant to be seen anyway. The SEL fitment with the Sub mid case, build quality of the bracelet, and cost are my major concerns. Before the review, I want members to acknowledge that TC 93250 V5 (PJ4) has 3 places different from the gen V-series 93250 (LT3) I used as datum. Those differences are not flaws. 1. The stamp on the V5 clasp PJ4 is not as vivid or profound as Gen LT3. When comparing to V4 PJ4 clasp, the stamp is not as vivid or profound either. Apparently the Thai wins at cosmetic and the Chinese wins at overall build quality and cost. The V5 PJ4 clasp stamp still beats V2 DE6 and V3 PJ4 clasp nonetheless. 2. akron on RG reported TC 93250 V4 bracelet first link does not fold all the way like it is supposed to be. Apparently it never is a problem to the Chinese maker. TC 93250 V5 bracelet first link folds all the way as to gen. Now, noticed the mid link on the SEL of V5 is a tad thicker than gen LT3? The gen sample the Chinese maker used has this very feature. What I'm trying to say here? I want members to acknowledge even gen Rolex makes different variations from each production batch. Left: TC 93250 V5. Right: Gen LT3 93250. 3. Some members complained that TC 93250 bracelets do not have the same smoothness when folding as the gen 93250 does. I want members to know gen 93250 bracelet costs USD $1,000 at Rolex service center. TC 93250 V5 costs CNY $350. That's roughly USD $57. Both are made of 316L stainless steel. Both shared the same design, same engineering construction. It's the after process that makes gen 93250 bracelet folds and feels butter smooth. Some modders on the forums have their own in-house lubricating formula. If you are looking for that gen's smooth hand feel, I would recommend members to seek a trusted modder's help for lubricating the bracelet to gen like silk smoothness. The Solid End Link (SEL) on TC 93250 V5 has continued the lineage of the V3 and craftsmanship. The edge of the SEL is a sharp 90° angel cut as how gen is. The thickness of the SEL is also Gen like. This means TC 93250 V5 can fit TC V-series Sub mid case, Factory Direct M-series Sub mid case (AKA WM9 Sub mid case), BK's TW mid case, and most importantly a gen Sub case (with some minor sanding needed 0.02 mm-0.04 mm)。 Gen to the left. TC 93250 V5 to the right. This is TC 93250 V5 on a Factory Direct M-series mid case AKA WM9 V2 mid case. Check out the hairline brush and finish. Can you tell which one is gen? Diver's extension. SEL Fitment: Some members reported there may be gap between SEL and watch lugs. This is one of the issues I want to solve during the development of TC 93250 V5. First let me clarify one thing, that is even Gen has a tiny gap. That gap is 0.02 mm. An average male's hair is 0.08 mm. The bracelet maker can not guarantee 0.02 mm (+/- 0.01) variance on SEL width. His best effort was 0.05 mm (+/- 0.02). This is how 0.05 mm gap looks like. Since the time I received KH 16610 dials, I felt the drive to push the bar for quality a step forward. I started to use a caliper to measure mid case lugs distance. Then I found out TC Sub mid cases lugs distances have variances, and the variances may be dramatically big. So I placed an order of 2 different SEL specs from the bracelet maker this time to solve the problem once for all. The specs are 20.10 (+/- 0.02) mm and 20.15 (+/- 0.02) mm. Before each assembly, I measure the lugs both the 6 and 12'clock sides. Then I can simply decide which spec bracelets to use to make that perfect gen like fitment. Caddell 25-295-C Rouge to the left. Gen V-series to the right. Thanks for reading. TC 3/6/14

Still wearing my beater

351 on new strap

That is not a replica, it is a rip off, pictures are of genuine watches not replicas, I hope you have not paid as I think you will be disappointed if you have! Unfortunately just as people have said before the watch you want does not exist as a replica, the closest you will get is the day date speed master with an Asian 7750

What most of these folks don't seem to realize is most of the folks here are also owners of genuine watches. I have probably twice as many genuine watches as replicas. I'm not a "poseur", I don't need to be, and never was. I do like what mtbkr65 said, that replicas are a good way to " test drive" a particular watch before you buy. Lots of folks see the prices that Rolex and a few other really popular brands command as used, but realize this, there are many, many other brands that are not as well known, and these have a huge depreciation when resold. If you don't believe this, go over to the sales forum on WUS or TZ and see what folks are selling practically new watches for. With many brands you are lucky to get 70% of your purchase price back when you resell. So from that standpoint, I would rather buy a 400.00 USD rep of a 5K watch and try it on for size, If I like it, I might start searching the genuine forums for a gently used genuine. If it doesn't resonate, then probably the gen won't either. Much easier to sell the rep on for 300.00 USD and take a 100 buck loss rather than selling a gen and taking a 1k or more loss! Just makes good economic sense to me.

Repaired the bracelet but still not sure how long it will hold out. I just love this watch so much!

Zixen vintage dsr for today Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

Black SMP. 14 years old!

Nice weather today together with my friendswatch Have a nice Saturday Cats Send with Sony Experia Z using Tapatalk Pro

Back to this one tonight

I just bought a gen crystal for my milgauss cost me a Fortune and its hard to get since rolex really keep a close eye on their green crystal produktion but my watchsmith Got one for me but did cost me 650 dollars and get a Real swiss movement in it for 250dollars i didnt get the lume done which i forgot i really regret that haha

Useless post without details. Like saying "beware of pickpocketing in the subway"... Really?

Those are fake celebrities as well.

Exactly. Don't want to get busted? Don't put your rep on Instagram. And again it shows how spoiled we are around here with our Super Ultimate 1:1s. There's stuff on there that this forum wouldn't touch with a ten-foot pole.

Wow some of you really hate this guy eh? I'm impressed that he's able to spot reps and discern the differences in such great detail.

Is fakebusta the same as the old 'fakewatchbuster' account? ...or is it a rep?

Two month anniversary tomorrow actually, Martin.

Welcome to the forum! This may help http://www.replica-watches-guide.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=6930

168000

Be sure you get the correct crown. They come in 2 sizes. One is 6mm for the large tube, and one is 6mm for the small tube. The stem is a standard eta 2836. 2834, 2824 etc. You will need to cut the new stem to the correct length. If you are not comfortable doing it yourself, get some who is familiar with watches, watcsmith etc.

That sub looks like my fossil that went through Iraq, Saudi and Afghanistan twice!!!

I figure if you can read a newspaper through the gap it's time to think about replacing the endlink.

Glad you figured it out. One dial clamp should be ok. You could use a dial dot or if you don't have those some glue on the dial feet will do just fine... Although I believe that glue and watchmaking are 2 things that don't belong together