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Hours from left to right : Silix, HR 2015, new HR 2016. Minutes : Silix, HR 2015, new HR 2016. Seconds : Tiger Concept, HR 2015, new HR 2016. HR 2015, new HR 2016. HR 2015, new HR 2016 [emoji632] HR 2015, new HR 2016. [emoji632]

Gilt Sub Hands... Most people put effort into their case, then the dial, the movement and the hands become an after thought. I have always thought that the dial and Mercedes hands are KEY elements and key "tells" on any vintage build budget or high end. There are so many myths surrounding what is correct, good, accepted in this world and I find learning this stuff as frustrating as everyone else, I have had to learn this stuff through trial and error (and error, and error). I get asked the question all the time when I post builds about what hands were used and read all the time "what hands are best" etc. etc. and finding a definitive answer is near on impossible because everyone says something different. I thought it was time to dispel some myths and help a whole mass of people out by showing these hands side by side. So here we go... Every hand set that I have, laid out next to each other, and all photographed to the same scale, next to a gen reference set (not my photo)... It should be noted that some of these have been aged and/or damaged, some are as delivered. Gen Hands I tried to make some general points about the gen hands, some rules that we want to get close to Points *1 - The second hand should have a tapered end The lollipop should have the same size of the base of the hour hand and be roughly twice the width of the minute hand *2 The walls of the hour hand shaft should be almost half the thickness of the lume plot The height of the shaft should be slightly SHORTER than the diameter of the Mercedes sign *3 - The diam of the Mercedes sign should be roughly a third bigger than the base *4 - The size of the Mercedes lume plot should be as big as the diameter of the hole (however the hole sizes differ, gen is 0.8 and ETA is 0.95mm) *5 - The length of the "point" should be more than half the diameter of the Mercedes sign and a third of the width at the base *6 - The distance from the hole to the start of the lume plot on the minute hand should be short *7 - As with the hour hand the walls of the minute hand shaft should be almost half the thickness of the lume plot *8 - The distance from the end of the lume plot to the start of the point should be small, approx 2x the width of the side wall There are more observations that can be made but these are the main ones. All Together The comparison candidates - Left to Right 1. Gen reference. It is important to say that this is a reference image and is not my photo. I have scaled this to an approximate same size as the other based on knowing the size of the hour hand hole (. compared to the other ETA (.95) 2. HR New - 2015 these are the replacement hands that HR currently have, the minute hand is not long for their oversized dial. However the hour hand is better than the older ones. 3. HR OLD - circa 2014. The minute hand is long for the HR oversized dial and the dimensions to a gen minute hand are almost perfect. A MUST for an oversized dial. (HR is apparently getting these back in stock but this is unconfirmed at time of writing) 3. Clarks Tudor Sub hands for ETA 2015 - These new hands are excellent and in fact probably the best of all for a very reasonable price $20 USD inc shipping 4. Tiger Concept (OnlineStoreHK). These are the clear looser, terrible in fact. Only buy these for the lollipop second hand if MY is out of stock. 5. Michael Young (Classic Watch Repair CWR) - An excellent set of hands that comes with 2 lollipop second hands, a gilt one and a white one. These hands have an excellent finish but the edges are not sharp and the lume job is terrible and hanging over the edge of the hands. At $65 + $28 Shipping these are the most expensive hands here and I would say, from a shape perspective, only slightly better than the $20 Clarks hands. It should also be noted that the hands shown are for a gen movement, not ETA. But MY used to stock these for ETA but he was out of stock when I asked. 6. Clarks Vintage Sub hands for 157x - I am including these because i have them, I struggled to broach these and ended up bending them. A good shape but now superseded by his Tudor Sub hands for ETA builds. Hour Hands Minute Hands Conclusion I hope it is clear to see that many of these hands are "wrong" not close to vintage sub hands AT ALL. The Tiger concept hands are in last place, however, these come with a lollipop second hand. The winners are Clarks and Michael Young if you don't want a lillipop second hand Clarks is the hands down winner. But it must be noted that by the time you buy a set of Clarks Tudor Sub hands and a set of Tiger's to get a lollipop second hand, you are basically at the same price as the MY hands (if he has them in ETA) An additional note must be made for HR "oversized" dials, for this dial there really is only 1 minute hand, the old HR hand as it will correctly reach the chapter ring on the dial as it should. PLEASE NOTE, I am talking solely about vintage early sub GILT hands here. By the time we get into 5513s particularly the silver hands and most definitely the later ones, the design of the hands has changed very slightly. Many of the gilt hands from the 5512 and early 5513 appear to be the same as the "6538" or "50-60s" era hands I am comparing, maybe these were old stock at the time?. But as the years move forward it is easy to see changes in particular the side walls of the hands get thicker, so if you are doing those builds this reference will not hold up. I hope this helps and means you don't have to buy all of the damned hands that I have bought Kime

I'm just amazed that some fool bought that watch for $6K. I've been keeping an eye on tonnywatches' dials for a while now. I'm kinda surprised he'd try to sell a franken for that much- wonder what will happen when the buyer figures out he got taken. The only thing old on that watch is the movement- insert is recent service insert, crown could be a 702 and worth $100, maybe $150... I guess I'm disappointed in tonnywatches.

Oh Fluffy, Fluffy, Fluffy! I thought I told you to behave?! Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Gen forum members are a lot like us, except less inclined toward intricate details. Also, quite a number of the members do not own expensive gen watches, or even own gens at all. Let's not be judgemental toward gen forum members on the whole. I believe that you find asses in both camps. Disdain is often a result of a lack of knowledge or understanding, and often more of an individual decision rather than a general attitude of a community. Message crafted while riding a leathery juvenile T-Rex and charging toward the horizon.

Nice.. Any pics? Here is some pics of my current Franken in progress. BP case drilled spring bars Gen xtal Gen bezel assembly Gen insert Gen crown Gen dial Gen hands Gen date wheel Gen 93160 Yuki movement Almost complete! CG next to my gen 14060m

You also missed the whole point with the thread. el oh el

Try getting a genuine dial online. I think that will be an ultimate upgrade! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can try us at Trusty Time at www.ttw8488.com. Feel free to drop us PMs or emails at trustytime@gmail.com. Email us for a faster reply. We look forward to serving you! Cheers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Shop? I hope you mean online - please see the Trusted Dealer section. Welcome!

Blueberry 42 !

Lovely Sent from my wooden drums via Tupperware

It's time for a litte recap and update on this project. To disable the day date subdials on this JF 116520 Daytona, all you need to do is to remove TWO wheels as shown below. If you know what your doing and don't have a fainted heart, it's a great weekend DIY project for you. Removing the movement from the case is pretty straightforward and I'll skip a thousand words. Dial off, first thing you'll notice is a plate or bridge, being held down by 11 screws! Carefully remove them and get the plate out of your way. Exposed are the day and date wheels, take off the two wheels as shown in my pics. You can also leave the levers there since they don't mean nothing now. A litte dab of epoxy glue on the two wheels to make sure they don't spin when you put the subdial hands back on. Voila, mission completed! Since the movement was out, I spent sometime to sand off the rehaut engraving to a period-correct 2000-2005 year model and shaved off a chunk of metal (from the top) to thin out the thick rehaut. Reshaping the crown guards and polish the SEL on this JF band to my liking. In fact, this band is not that bad compared to the BP band I acquired from my GZ friend, nothing a bit of proper sanding and polish can't fix. The awkward SEL curve to some don't bother me too much cos I have small wrists. The BP band I got was $50 but quality wise don't even come close to any late model TC Sub band, so forget it...

The Twisted World of Watches... (A) The majority of the genuine watch forum bed wetters are: 1...Jealous. 2...Disappointed. 3...Disillusioned. Jealous because replica owners get the Wow! accolades (and the Damsel) same as any Gomer wearing the Real Deal and Disappointed because in reality their $10k 'investment' was a fool's errand, especially when it breaks and needs 'official' $ervice. They are Disillusioned because they believe 'High Achievers and Heroes all wear genuine watches.' All the others are sinners and destined to burn at the stake in Geneva. (B) 1: They do not know much about watches in general and can not tell a higher grade replica from a genuine watch. 2: They have very little or no sense of humor. 3: They tend to identify with the brand and wear 'Macho Brands' and/or certain types of watches as a badge of 'manliness'. Replicas take this all away from them because the guy wearing the replica has the same status, therefore replicas are something to be hated and/or feared along with the person wearing it. They have no problem with pirated DVDs etc though. (C) Most of the genuine watch forum members are replicas of sane, reasonable people.

I get really upset when somebody mentions gens on rep forums [emoji23]

The case profile and lugs are thicker. Overall not a bad watch. Make sure to get a thicket gasket for the plexi-to-case sealing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

realy nice build![emoji1303] Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk