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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/08/2016 in all areas

  1. I really don't understand this whole dilemma. I was a machinist for over twenty years (from before CNC was the norm). Every dimension today is programmed into the computer - I just can't understand how there can be this much "hit or miss" variation. B
    2 points
  2. Thanks Team for the help, all sorted now. :-) Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
    2 points
  3. My raw A7750 are still functioning. For me, I will service or replace them when they failed me. More than 1 road to Rome...
    2 points
  4. for what its worth, I have notified Phong and his son of this thread. Lets hope they take all our concerns seriously and improve their product quality.
    1 point
  5. There should be no need for a v1, v2, v3 requirement when laser scanning and CNC'ing a Rolex mid-case. I can't think of a simpler object that I have had made in my line of work. Bezel ring and caseback is a tiny bit more complex to absolutely nail ......but there's no excuse for not getting the mid-case and CGs right with a CNC set-up. There's an initial tooling cost/investment ....but for $1500 a pop, there is no excuse for anything less than true 1:1. I think Phong's 16610 is true 1:1 but his vintage stuff is probably a rep of a rep of a rep that he "hand-finishes" using pictures (not actual side by side gen)
    1 point
  6. "I really don't understand this whole dilemma. I was a machinist for over twenty years (from before CNC was the norm). Every dimension today is programmed into the computer - I just can't understand how there can be this much "hit or miss" variation." This is something I have always wondered about too. Ten or twelve years ago a guy who travelled around the southern USA selling replicas always had maybe 100 cheapo stainless steel 16610 type submariners and they were all exactly the same. Not true to oem maybe, but they all were exactly alike in every detail, every time he showed up. This proves it can be done and done cheaply...his watches were $50 or so each and a bit less in quantity. I still have maybe 10 submariners and 30 or 40 DJ left from back then that I keep for projects with Raffles Time sterile dials etc. The submariner cases have lug holes and the DJ have 'no hole' cases similar to what JMB offers but made for Eta 2836 instead of 2824 and come with DG 28xx, Seagull ST6D, and ST16 (no case clamp grooves though). Fast forward to 2016...why not take a genuine example of a 5513, program the measurements into a CNC setup and crank cases out for a few bucks each? If they are very close to genuine to start with there would be very little detail work. I have always believed a $1200 case is just a $100 case that was pretty close to oem to begin with that has been detailed. If a $1200 case still has to be detailed after it is purchased, why not just buy a Yuki case to begin with and detail it...or a $200 cartel watch? From what I have seen, the 'unfixable' tells are the case back stamping and engraving between the lugs anyway, not the basic contour of the case. I am perfectly happy with Yuki cases. Heck, I even like DW cases...wearing a DW '1680' right now with 1570, Yuki dial etc. Put it on because the date was right. I'll see how long I can stand to wear it (automatics are a real hassle compared to an Accutron II).
    1 point
  7. Yes David. The datewheels for the ROO frankens would be the same as the ones for the diver. Message crafted while smacking a wayward chicken with a salmon.
    1 point
  8. I love the Glashutte Panomaticlunar. Will Prob be my first true dress watch. Wore this around for a spell today. Not mine it's a buddies. Not for me at all. Didn't like it. However, it did weigh a ton.
    1 point
  9. My serviced 7750 are very reliable and show great Power Reserve. There is such a difference between a raw 7750 and a serviced one. Winding is smooth, PR over 40 hours.
    1 point
  10. I have 3 watches A7750 in my collections & they are still beating well till now. Of cos, i dont play the Chronos often. "More than 1 road to Rome..."
    1 point
  11. Watch is fake 100%. How do I know? Check the second hand. On gen the reminder of the second hand is longer than on reps.
    1 point
  12. 7750 are the flakiest movement around. Gen or reps have the same unreliability issues. Not sure what you mean by swiss 7750. I would ask a TD for a replacement 7750, get it serviced by one of known modders here. It's going to cost you a solid $200-$300 but that's how you have a solid 7750. Chinese factories don't have the QC that swiss manufacturers have. From my experience all rep watches need to be cleaned. From dial to movement. Good luck.
    1 point
  13. If the shoe is fake, what are the chances the watch is real. I put the over under at 2%.
    1 point
  14. Are those holes tapered? Sure looks like it from the pictures. He's a tricky one. I've had him do magic for me, and I've had him attempt to bend me over. I'm lucky (sorry guys) I can play the "Admin at RWG" card and get him to pay attention to my complaints. I know that's not right nor fair, but it helps. Sometimes.
    1 point
  15. 1 point
  16. No, my opinion, the seconds tail has exactly the right length. See here some Pics from an original 7016.
    1 point
  17. Brought this Queen from my box today. More things to come.
    1 point
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