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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/19/2017 in all areas

  1. "From my point of view, this gen watch having been repaired and serviced several times with aftermarket parts, is still a gen." This of course is a matter of opinion. Imho a watch needs to have 100% genuine parts to be 'genuine', not 80 or 90%. Some internal parts can not be identified as genuine or aftmkt (mainsprings for example) so they pass as genuine. RWC does not make mainsprings anyway, they are made by General Ressorts. Stems and some internal wheels, screws etc are nearly impossible to tell but almost no one looks at them because they are fixated on cases, dials, hands, bezels, bracelets etc. A watch with a few aftmkt parts may pass as genuine but it is not 100% genuine. I have watches that are 100% genuine and some that would strain to be 90% genuine (aftmkt bracelet links for example). The difference is that I will tell what is what when I pass them on. The problem is when the next guy sells it and does not mention it is not 100% genuine. Trade shows and the internet are full of watches like this. I got a 34mm manual wind no date replica rolex in a trade 12 or 15 years ago that looked more or less genuine so I engraved "This ain't a real rolex Bud" inside the case back to keep someone from getting robbed on it and traded it away with full disclosure. A few years later a watch trader showed up with it bragging that he 'made out like a bandit' on a trade and got a 'rolex' for nearly nothing. I opened it up and showed him the inscription. We had a good laugh. He gave it to his kid.
    4 points
  2. In the case of my Big Gonzo build, I wanted to build a 6538 Big Crown Sub that would hearken back to the days it was for sale in the showroom. What does that mean? Back then it was a nice durable watch that could go in the water, nothing more. It had no aura of "Bond" or exclusivity, it was a tool. I'd think it would be a lot like a good Seiko diver today, not very expensive and pretty durable. I'd never think twice about taking a Seiko in the ocean, and if I dropped it on the desk at the end of the day I wouldn't notice or care. Nobody in their right mind would do that with a genuine 6538 today. So I used a sturdy aftermarket case and bezel with the right dimensions, got lucky with a gen crystal and found a gen crown and insert for good prices. I finally found the dial I wanted, and into this housing I plunked an ETA movement. Heresy? Nope. Just like a 1030 movement during the 50s and 60s, the contemporary ETA is robust and easy to find parts for. If I flood it and ruin the ETA, it will be no big deal to simply replace it. Not so with a 1030. In the end I have a watch that's impossible to tell from gen without a strong loupe, or by opening the back. I get to use it any way I want, with total disregard for it being "Bond" or exclusive. In a way it's taken me right back to the 50s and 60s, and I get to use it swimming and diving ... like it was meant to be. That usage is what I've replicated. There's a lot of freedom and enjoyment in that. You can replicate the usage of a tool stopwatch with your 6263 the same way.
    3 points
  3. Well take a look at this that is a ten grand watch, but a genuine in that condition would be God alone knows how much, so I guess the point is either the satisfaction of doing it or being able to own, wear and enjoy a watch that otherwise would be an unobtainable dream.
    2 points
  4. These watches are the ultimate tool watch !!! The dents are the scars one needs to feel the warrior ! It's the only model for which I recommand a subtle aging when otherwise I prefer a serviced look. A crisp 1665 simply lacks charm. Base watch was a JF. Vietnam made dial, swiss T39 and Athaya crown. A full reshape of the case was performed to achieve this look. Crown tube seat was recessed as well, so the crown is now where it should be. Note the aging done between the lugs: the serial numbers were sandblasted, then the surface was rebrushed to simulate what salt does over time on metal. Surface is a bit grainy and engravings are not as sharp.
    1 point
  5. What he said ^^^ There are different movements that will fit the midcase. Different rings exist to hold the movements. Fit your assembled movement+dial into the ring and slip that assembly into the midcase. Then the bezel screws onto the front of the ring, and the caseback screws onto the back of the ring, creating a sandwich with the movement inside.
    1 point
  6. Amazing pictures! Thanks for sharing these
    1 point
  7. thats exactly what im looking for..... fantastic!
    1 point
  8. LV day! Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G928F met Tapatalk
    1 point
  9. 253 on python strap. Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  10. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  11. 684 on python. Sent from my ME173X using Tapatalk
    1 point
  12. Rolojack's got mad skills [emoji108] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
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