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Here are my thoughts and some of the current crop of 126600 seadwellers. I’m by no means an expert, so these are my basic observations. I currently have 3 different 126600s. I bought the first cheaper version from BP when that was released. Obviously there were a number of issues with that version such as the wrong bracelet width, small font on the insert and the wrong pearl size, shape and height. I haven’t been fortunate enough to see a gen 126600 in the flesh, so my observations are based on comparisons with photos and videos of the gen which obviously doesn’t compare to seeing the real thing. I then bought the BP ‘best’ version when it was released. This addressed the biggest issues, particularly the bracelet width and bezel insert. The pearl on the bezel is lower like the gen but the profile doesn’t look exactly the same as the gen pearl to me. It looks more like a lowered version of a deepsea pearl. The font size and colour seems pretty good and the bezel action is smooth but not too slack, which is good. Recently I also bought the ARF version. For me this is the best version so far. The bezel insert looks particularly stunning. The font colour is lighter and looks much better in low light than the BP best version. The BP colour is lighter than noob v7 but the ARF is lighter than the BP. Also, the font is slightly larger on the ARF bezel but this seems correct when I’ve compared it to gen photos. The BP font is slightly larger than the font on the deepsea v7 but not as large as ARF. The Cyclops on the ARF is also slightly smaller than that on the BP and the magnification seems slightly less. It is true that the bezel teeth are sharper on the ARF compared to the BP and you can feel it when you turn it. On my particular ARF, the bezel action is the most disappointing part compared with the BP. The ARF has more of a rocking action when you press down on it and the action when turned is quite loose and sloppy. I’ve noticed it moving during general daily wear. The action on the BP is much firmer and it does not rock in the same way. This, however, may be just the watch I have. Other ARFs might not have this issue. Both bracelets feel and look good. I’m still in two minds about the 904L thing. At first glance there doesn’t seem to be a difference at all when you compare the 904L and the 316L. However, in certain lights, to me especially in low light, the 904L does seem to reflect the light with more ‘lustre’. I’m not sure if this is an actual difference or wishful thinking. Both the BP best and ARF looked good on the QC pics but on closer inspection once arrived, the cyclops is a tiny bit off being straight and the pearl is not absolutely dead centre on the BP. Everything is spot on on the ARF. There is a difference in the weight of the watches. All the weights are taken with 2 links removed from the bracelets. The original ‘cheap’ BP is 163g, BP ‘best’ is 175g and the ARF is 181g. I have to say that I’ve messed about with the BP cheap version. I swapped out the pearl for an old style one I had hanging around and I swapped the original insert for an old noob deepsea one I had. The insert fit perfectly but it is about half the thickness of the 126600 insert, so it now sits lower down in the bezel a fraction. In all the photos the original cheap BP version is BP1 and it has the white deepsea insert, not its original. Both the BP best and the ARF are great watches but the bezel insert on the ARF is the thing that clinches it for me.

Almost two years in the making !!!!! The dial here is a pure beauty with every detail right. Enjoy the pics !!!!

I read several threads on the difference between gen and rep Omega bracelets and wanted to find out for myself if it's worth the cost. I was able to acquire a gently used gen at a very good price! Here's my take the gen is lighter and the links are rounder. It feels slightly better on the skin but not by much. The average person would not notice. Being the rep bracelet is heavier and shinier most untrained would think it gen. The rep bracelet does have slightly more sheen to it. My thoughts are the rep bracelet is fantastic and good enough unless you're building a super uber franken gen is not necessary. Below are pics of my LMPO with rep bracelet and gen clasp and the gen bracelet I acquired. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

http://www.repgeek.com/member.php?46399-sacsha1 Sells many Gen parts for Rolex models.

Nice one. Thanks for the shots! How well does the lume on the hands match the dial markers? On the QC shots from Josh‘s site, the hands look a little darker.

I’ve been seeeing a few of the benzes here in LA, and I gotta say, dang do they look great in person!! I like the 8 as well. I’m very familiar with the old E31 before going backwards, way backwards, to Air Cooled

Yep! Agreed. The door is closing quickly. I (mostly) daily drive my ‘84. It’s a pain in traffic but the smiles it has given me for 6 years or so has been worth it. The gauges matched my old Lava AP nicely!

Lol!!! Related sidenote: The E-Type is on my list to own before I leave this planet!

Droool! I’ve been a 911 daily guy for years but the F type is incredible

By-Tor, I agree that it is a beauty! A friend has one he got last year. It’s white which is not my favorite color but it’s really nice looking regardless.

Thanks for the share brother ;-)@legend Indeed I wasn't very aware of this, but have since dropped Louie a msg on his WeChat already regarding OP's issue. It's very useful to note what's going on, and hope for the best that he'll make right what has been wronged.

The Daytona...a watch that everybody has an opinion about. A watch icon, the mother of sport watches, the most known chronograph in the world and a pain for most when it comes to replicas. The common replicas were all way too thick and for most far from the sporty look of the gen. The usual thickness of a fully functional Daytona rep with a7750 is around 15,5mm which is about 3mm more than the gen. Some say "hey...that's only 3mm" but for most these 3mm are too much. For many years the only way to get a decent 5 digit Daytona was to get a vietnam or phong case and no chance for a 6 digit. But that means one has to invest an average 4 digit sum which for most just isn't possible. That meant for some years the only way to wear a Daytona rep is to live with the thickness of around 15,5mm. But then there was 2016 and JF entered the market with a 23j Daytona rep with a thin case. Finaly there was a chance to own a Daytona rep that looked gen like and was as thin as the gen. The chrono wasn't functional on these Daytonas but that didn't bother most...the gen like look was their aim. But some (including me) couldn't live with a chrono watch that looks like a chrono but isn't a chrono due to the movement not being a chrono movement...so we waited for an update. There were rumours that the makers are working on a new version with a 4130 clone...wow...that would it be...gen look, gen thickness and a fully functional chrono...maybe like the SH31xx movements being able to take gen parts...that'll be a dream... And...some month ago ARF maker joined the rep market with a new version of the Daytona. The look...gen like just as the JF Daytonas. Thickness...close with 13,2mm. The movement...well...they call it a4130...they call it 4130 clone...but...it's not even close... The base of the movement is the well know a7750. To make it thinner they got rid of the minute and hour counter which in my eyes makes it a non-chrono movement so nothing better than the 23j movement (okay...the stop second works so it's a 1 minute chrono...hoorrayyy :raisedeyebrow: ). Being an a7750 the movement isn't able to take gen parts and it's not possible to mount a gen dial without destroying it's value because one has to cut off the dial feet. This new ARF Daytona was a big downturn for me (and some others)...and...the 904L steel that they seem to use on these new Daytonas is just a marketing gag. I mean...904L isn't superior to 316L...it's just different. Some say the look and feel is completely different...from my own experience there is no haptic or visual difference. The difference between a ARF Daytona with 904L and other Daytonas with 316L comes from the finish I'd say. I bet there wouldn't be a difference between a ARF and "Johnny Depp" modded Daytona... But...back to what this thread is about...the Domi Daytona! I waited long with buying a Daytona since I was waiting for a real 4130 clone. A fully functional movement is very important for me and the thought of being able to just put a gen dial on it without destroying its value was the icing on the cake :). With that ARF Daytona all my hope for such a Daytona was gone and I decided to buy an a7750 Daytona. 15,5mm thickness is something I could live with...better than a non working chrono! My decision went for a BP Daytona since this was the only one with a slate grey racing dial. The "new" 29jewel movement that they also call 4130 clone became very reliable, so no fear that I bought a "time bomb". Domi said they copied his mod and even improved it. The only thing to do on this movement is to check if it's clean and give it a little oil here and there and it's good for some years without any fear A few days after I received my Daytona from Trusty Time I went to Domi to have him taking a look at the movement if it's clean. While he was explaining to me why this movement had become such a good movement we decided to take off the fake 4130 deco plate to make sure that none of the glued on parts can become loose and harm the movement. Without this cover plate it was possible to use a flatter rotor and with that flatter rotor it was possible to use a flatter caseback. And since the crystal height was way too high he shaved the gasket to bring it down to gen height...version 1 of the "Domi Daytona" was born with a fully functional movement and only 14,2mm height over all...cool With just a few mods it was possible to bring an a7750 Daytona from 15,5mm to 14,2mm. And since I already could've lived with 15,5mm I was more than happy with 14,2mm But that was just v1...another BP Daytona was on its way to me. BP again since only BP has a blue racing dial Daytona. As far as I know this is a fantasy model but it's one Rolex should've done :). Last week the Daytona arrived and I had the time to visit Domi again. He said he had some ideas that he would try out and since I have 100% confidence in his skills I let him First thing to do was of course to remove the fake 4130 deco plate. The next thing he did was to shorten the hour, minute and second pinion to bring down the hands to gen height and being able lower the crystal seat. For lowering the crystal seat he had to turn (shave) the case and the bezel. After all this was done successfully he installed a flat rotor and turned a very flat custom case back...version 2 was ready with a total height of only 13,3mm and a fully functional movement...amazing!! During that process he found out that there's still some room for getting it slimmer...13mm are maybe possible but this has to be tested with v3...stay tuned @dmuit was and is still a magician and...something we both thought of...look what he was able to do with his limited possibilities as a watchsmith and guess what the makers would be able to do with all their machines and skills...there is no need to give us a Daytona with a non-chrono movement to be close to gen height. They could easily build a fully working Daytona with 13mm or even less...my guess is that the makers just made this because they know that they can sell xtimes more of their watches when they continue with their versioning system... v1 before v1 after v2 before v2 during process v2 after Comparison v1 - v2

For me it has to be JF’s oyster perpetual.

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Can’t wait to get this on the wrist Jack, great way to kick off the new year! Thanks again!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My guess is that it’s magnetized. Sudden and extreme positive rate increases are almost always magnetism.

Keyless work needs resetting, hands and dial off I'm afraid, I'm in EU too, and can help if you don't mind shipping from Poland to Finland.

Pam 449 on rep asso Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk