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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/10/2018 in all areas

  1. Just added a Phong insert to my 5517. Very impressed with the quality, check out those serifs!
    3 points
  2. Put one on mine too, it the only accurate one available.
    1 point
  3. Thanks! The build was a while ago, some of the parts are now unavailable unfortunately. However, here goes: Cartel 5517 midcase with fixed spring bars. Together with caseback. Both with correct markings (no longer available) WSO bezel assembly (better than current batch) Ingod44 dial (no longer available) Hands (HR, If I remember rightly. Second hand tail trimmed to be more gen-like. Something often overlooked on many builds) ETA 2846 movement. Gen T19 service crystal Phong Insert, Yuki pearl (better than current batch) Phoenix NATO strap in Admiralty grey (they manufactured the original MOD straps) Think that’s about it!
    1 point
  4. That looks absolutely delicious! The 5517 is one of my favorite watches. Great pics, BTW! Since I'm relatively new here, would you mind giving a little more detail of your build, such as case used, dial, hands, crystal, movement, etc.? I'd love to know more. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    1 point
  5. Wow, that is a beauty. I’ve always had a soft spot in myself heart for this beauty! Congrats on the upgrade!
    1 point
  6. Besides the LHD Destro tudor I received this Blue boy. I really needed a summer watch so, I ordered a blue breitling GMT along with it. Again, thanks to Andrew! Great guy and truly a trusty gentleman. Package arrived within 5 days, nothing to complain here. Specs from Trusty; http://www.ttw-138.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_137&products_id=17054 Top Quality GF Factory New Avenger II GMT Made with a Genuine Avenger II GMT A3239011 ONLY available at Trusty Time!!! Comparison Pics of Genuine vs. Replica: https://imageshack.com/a/Sbnl/1 MOVEMENT: Nickel Plated Asia Eta 2836-2 Automatic Movement, 25J 28800bph with Working GMT Function & Decorated Rotor CASE DIAMETER: 42mm THICKNESS: 12mm DIAL COLOR: Blue Dial with Stick Markers (With Swiss Grade SuperLume Applied) CASE MATERIAL: Solid Stainless Steel 316F High Grade BRACELET: Blue Rubber Strap with Insignia with Double Tang Buckle FRONT GLASS: Sapphire Crystal with AR Coating (Swiss Grade) CASE BACK: Solid case back with Detailed engraving BEZEL: Uni-Directional Bezel (Anti-Clockwise) - With Superlume Pearl Insert on Bezel HACK MOVEMENT: CLASP TYPE: Double Tang Buckle DATE INDICATOR: At 3:00 Position (Adjusted via the crown) - Correct Date Font as per Genuine OTHER REMARKS: Waterproofed to 30m direct from Factory ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Case: First thing I noticed was the 100% superb strong polished case, if I think of breitling a strong polished case is what crosses my mind. The factory did a great job on that. Really worth mentioning. Bezel: In contrast to the case the bezel has a satin/matte finish which pops out strongly, I love the combination of the two different finishings. The numbers in the bezel are also very crisp. Dial: As I already mentioned in my tudor review earlier today, I am a sucker for matte dials which this GMT also has! The bright white markers are popping out strongly. Strap: Butter soft with nice details like the text "Breitling''! For the BR nitpickers, the datewheel is not sunken so you guys will love that. I am impressed with the overall quality factories nowadays are producing. The difference between REP and GEN are getting extremely close these days. I am happy with this blue summer watch... It looks sporty and classy. 100% satisfied! Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
    1 point
  7. Jin Swee! "There are more than 1 road to Rome...."
    1 point
  8. Sent from my Lenovo P2a42 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  9. Tourby back in action again A lot of work done.
    1 point
  10. This makes me smile. [emoji41] Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    1 point
  11. Thanks, you are right. If anything I can do for the forum, let me know
    1 point
  12. First of all, thank you for tolerating the numerous posts regarding this build. The whole build process is detailed here http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/176345-6538-build-progress-movement-discussion/ When I joined the forum, I always thought certain vintage Rolex models were out of my price range. I have been wearing a Rolex since 1987, but just bought a new one every few years and traded in the old one. I found this place doing research for a new Rolex; this was near the end of 2013. So initially I was just looking for information about the new models and stumbled on this forum and figured I could try out some rep models for minimal cost and figure out which gen I would buy. So over a few months I tried about every modern Rolex I liked the looks of—found out I really do not care much for modern Rolex’s. One thing happened that I did not expect, I became part of the community and started participating in discussions and became friends with some of the members here. I really had no idea that I was diving into a new “full time” hobby. As time went on I became more fascinated with the vintage models that members were building and displaying. This led to a few of my own vintage builds. Made some mistakes and had many learning experiences but have been mostly happy with the results. My wife notices how much peace and joy I get from being part of this community and the hobby and actually encourages the “watch thing” as long as I do not go into details about builds as that puts her to sleep. She thinks it is funny that I am a WIS… No one ever really notices my watches. About once of year I run into another WIS and talk watches but really as most of you know this hobby is for yourself and these communities. One of the models that really grabbed my attention was the 6538 Big Crown Submariner, always thought to be too expensive for me to ever afford. Mainly I am talking about Nanuq’s, CC’s and more recently Dbane’s builds. My first real reading as a kid was Ian Fleming’s Bond series and 007 and his 6538 have been favorites of mine for a very long time. I tend to like watches that are simple with no dates and minimal text/distractions. So I did some research and figured out to do one right it would take some knowledge, a lot of help, and it could easily exceed the cost of a nice gen Rolex. Being that I had never worn one, I decided to start with a more conservative approach and bought a nice modified HR 6538 to see how she felt and looked on the wrist. I was pretty much hooked from there. Right away I started doing more research and developed some connections with some of the great members here who had completed these builds. Developed a build plan and a spread sheet to track costs, and then started sourcing parts. Dbane helped throughout this process as for the most part I still an unsure at times of the authenticity of parts and what part is correct for what model. I am learning but always good to have another opinion. It took a while to source all the parts… Dbane is really responsible for putting this together. He has helped me throughout this project. He did the case shaping, the beautiful bevels, lumed the hands, had the movement serviced and did the complete assembly. He is an amazingly skilled and intelligent person who seems to take great pride in whatever he does whether it is building watches or handmade speakers. I have nicknamed him the “case whisperer”. Thank you my friend! Thanks to CC33 and Nanuq who shared their knowledge and experience freely and whose builds were initially responsible for the inspiration. This project was only possible because this forum exists. Specs: Minh Quy case set (mid case, bezel, case back) shaped by dbane and custom engraved by NeckyZips—serial number is period correct but has significant value to me. Genuine spec real gilt dial—hand produced by the nameless one Classic Watch Parts hands lumed by dbane Genuine cal 1030 movement fully serviced Genuine NOS 8mm crown, tube and stem Genuine T-17 dome plexi Genuine MKII long 5 insert. Genuine 7206 bracelet restored by Classic Watch Parts . Thank you so much for being here and for all the help on this project. I really find much enjoyment spending time and sharing with you. This is really the culmination of all the years of collecting watches and my time here so far. Needless to say, I am very happy with the way she turned out. The dial and hands reflect light like no watch I have had. Truly a work of art. I think Mr. Bond would approve. Pics coming from my phone:
    1 point
  13. Mine came in as stated. I ordered this on the 7th today is the 11th. That is record time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pics Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  14. 1 point
  15. Friends, Since I get quite a lot of PM's with questions about frankens I decided to write this thread. An AP franken is something special so it deserves it. hehe Basically this thread is about "How to build an AP franken?!" what you need and what to do. 1st step Since it's quite an expensive build, think about it, if you want it. If you are happy enough with the current reps, then don't do it. If you want something special closer to gen and you have the cash to spend, you are passionate about AP and/or you love the pieces then do it. Investment wise, I'm pretty sure you can get back what you invested. Parts are rare, the parts price alone you can sell and get your investment back. The case will go lost since only a franken AP uses this case. The 1st step I propose is thinking about the project. Also bear in mind, this is a special project and it needs time!!! My ultimate franken project took about 1,5 year to get completed. Don't get stressy, find everything you want to get your own personal build. Patience is needed!!! 2nd step If you decided to move on and take on the project then take a look at the regular AP dials, a limited edition dial is very very hard, nearly impossible to get. Once you have a dial you like then look for one. Ask around, contact some grey dealers that sell AP, for example in diamond districts etc. Contact some workshops that customize watches, like diamond setting etc. The price you should pay for a dial and tachy should be between $700 - $1200 (MAX!). I have now bought 7 dials in total, and these are the prices I have paid. 3rd step Once you bought a dial and tachy you need to look for an LWO movement. These are harder to get these days. Contact some watchsmiths, wholesalers etc. What you need is a Dubois Depraz module 2000 on an ETA2892 movement. If they don't come with canon pinion or hour wheel, don't worry, those are available to order. As for the cyclopse, you can use the rep cyclopse or if a cyclopse came with a movement you can use that as well. A few years back Uwe (finedd) made some cyclopses with a blue-purple AR coating, those are good as well. My advise, try to get one with that coloured coating. Gens came with purplish AR hue. The price of an LWO movement used to be $350 for a NOS movement. Right now I bought 3 movements, fully serviced with cannon pinion and hour wheel + cyclops at $550, sold them to some great members at the same price. Those came from 3 donor watches. As for donor watches, old Tag Heuers, Baume & Mercier, Chopard, Longines, Etienne Schwarz, Girard Perregaux used these movements. Ask around and you should be able to find this. Look on eBay as well, there was a set of 10 pieces Etienne Schwarz LWO's sold somewhere below $4.200. Divide it by 10 and you get a price below $420 per piece, canon pinion, hour wheel and cyclopse included. 4rd step I would propose to search for a datewheel I made, 1:1 to gen spec, unfortunately those are sold out but maybe some members have a spare one. Price for a new one was $61 shipped 5th step Depending on the build you want, search for gen hands, bezel, crystal, pushers and crown, this will be the hardest part imo for the search. This is not needed for a build, if you don't need this, skip this step. Basically the biggest difference between gen and rep hands is the shape. The center of the gen hands (hour and minute)is smaller vs the rep hands. The subdial hands look similar, though the rep hands won't fit immediately on to the LWO movement. This needs a slight modification. The gen pushers and crown use a different rubber substance, a more durable kind of rubber. Offcourse the crown is much better than the rep but, I feel if you want a gen crown you also need gen pushers due to the same aging process of the rubber. The gen crown does work on a rep crown tube, at least when I tried, hehe. The problem with the gen pushers is that when installed they sit a bit too deep vs the rep. If they sit too deep it's not 1:1 as per gen, with the reps it's much closer imo. Price for hands: $345 - $555 Price for pushers and crown: $280 - $450 A gen bezel is different than the rep, it needs a gen crystal gasket as well and gen screws too as the rep screws are slightly too large. A gen bezel is quite expensive. I bought 2 bezels, 1 second hand between $140 - $345 and 1 6th step buy a donor watch, the rep $518 7th step This step is not necessary at all! But I try to offer a guideline with steps to get closer to gen. This step includes the case milling to the correct thickness as per gen. The cost is $550. 8th step Once all of the above is done you will need to search for a competent watchmaker to perform these mods. Discuss the work on before hand, discuss the price and try to arrange a price on beforehand. I am open about the price I paid my watchmaker for the work, pricing was €300 for the modding work (drilling crown tube hole, shaving caseback, making movement ring, adjusting movement to COSC norms, re-engrave caseback, complete assembly) and shipping with UPS next day delivery was included. This to give an idea. 9th step Enjoy wearing your piece... TOTAL PRICE OF A PROJECT LIES BETWEEN USD 3.795 - 4.850. From my experience.
    1 point
  16. That is a beauty! Incredible attention to detail. Input from the best on the boards. Enjoy it and wear it often. "No Mr. Bond...I expect you to give me your watch."
    1 point
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