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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/24/2018 in all areas

  1. The Dark Knight Rises!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  2. Seems like you can build all sorts of things with an Explorer case. I was recently commissioned by a Bro. on a different forum to do some tweaks for a 6350 build he was starting. This is one of the more interesting case sets I've built. It starts with the basic mid case that you guys refer to as a "V2" with a T21 crystal for a more domed look. The case-back is then reshaped to simulate a bubble-back with the inside engraved in the "old" style. A vastly different bezel tops it off and the result was pretty cool. I really hated the bezel in pictures but once finished it started growing on me. Here's some pics...
    1 point
  3. I still can't believe we are even having to have this discussion. In the last 2 years my hobby has been making jewelry by designing them in either Zbrush or Matrix Gemvision (Rhino based) and then having my models professionally printed with the latest 3d printing software which is called material jetting. Material Jetting is so precise that you could 3d print finger prints if you wanted to. For the love of God and all that is mighty, let's create a team of people from this forum including myself and make 3D models of the 5513 case. Now, I can't cast models into stainless steel, but maybe I can help with the workflow of the whole process of making a 3d model of the midcase which can then be CNC machined, etc. At the vary least, we could have the midcase designed with just final thread cutting left which people like JMB could advice on. Let's freaking do this people. Let me give you an example of what can be done with technology. A friend of mine wanted a treasure coin but didn't want to pay hundreds of dollars for even just a replica. So I created an exact replica using Zbrush and then casting it in Silver. For the Love of God. With 3D scanning, we could high resolution scan an original 5513 mid case.
    1 point
  4. The perfect IWC for a skinny wrist: Mark XVI on bracelet! Just back from the spa. Thanks Vac!! Case diameter: 39mm. Case thickness: 11.5 mm. Band width: 20 mm on 6.375” wrist (16.2cm)
    1 point
  5. Yesterday evening, drinking cachaca while enjoying that newcomer ... 5500 patina Air-King I think she deserves a rivet bracelet, ain't she ? Almost forgot the lumeshot
    1 point
  6. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  7. Here is a sample of what is available: http://www.startimesupply.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY-30&Store_Code=1&Category_Code=1E_bands_Screws&offset=15 Most supply houses have the same assortments.
    1 point
  8. Nice! Now all you need is a honeycomb dial...
    1 point
  9. Greed... That is what happens when you sell modified cheap Vietnam parts, in the US, using one of the most hardcore privately owned watch brands in the world. I know a lot of you guys loved him. But all he did was reshape. When I asked him for a quote on a 6263 18K YG case it was >10000 EUR. When I asked why the big difference compared to the SS one, he said work was more complicated. When I said that work should be simpler since YG is easier to mold and work with than SS, he said "take it or leave it". Remove about 1500 EUR for the YG. Remove about 15000 EUR for a regular SS case. >7000 EUR was his profit compared to a SS one. That. Is. Bull. Shiet.
    1 point
  10. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  11. 6️⃣5️⃣4️⃣2️⃣
    1 point
  12. This one showed up yesterday and will undergo surgery in the next few days lol
    1 point
  13. "I'm going to just do the cartel case. I can't pull myself to find $650+ for something I'm going to stick a 2846 in anyway." Good decision. A $100 movement in a $700 case is... Fill in the blank. "I'll work the lugs down to where I like them, and drill out the holes to 1.25mm." I usually go 1.3mm because you can not tell the difference by looking and with replicas you often need a little wiggle room. "I wouldn't be able to live with a 26mm dial, knowing the real deal is .5mm bigger." "That, and I want the watch to have the Rolex date position (not ETA)." Oem spec dials will be the correct size...55xx = 26.0mm, 1680 = 26.5mm. All proper oem spec dials will also have the correct date offset. "SO - is it not possible to SLOWLY sand out the rehaut with, say, 2000 grit, until I get the additional .5mm?" It is easy, but only if you have a way to spin the case while sanding it to size. If you sand it evenly and measure it often you are usually OK doing it by hand. Remember...you only have to remove .25mm to make the window .5mm larger. Maybe start with 600 grit paper because 2000 basically just polishes the surface. Enlarging the window with 2000 would be slow going...like a parakeet eating a grindstone. You do not want a shiny polished surface, another reason not to use 2000. "Assuming I do pull off my intended sanding, will the rehaut/crystal/bezel dimensions be correct with my having modified the case to accommodate the 26.5mm dial? That is, will it LOOK right? Or will the rehaut now be too thin, etc etc etc?" You can not tell the difference. Sand the opening at a 90 degree angle to the case or you may end up with a tapered or sharp edge leading down to the dial. A small straight 90 degree edge will not be noticeable but a change in the reflector area (rehaut) angle will be. Measure the case first, it may be correct to begin with. "Bonus OT questions I'd love to have answers for: I bought a Sternkreuz 127 for giggles - is that a decent "top hat" to use, or do I need to also buy the Clark's? Or other?" Crystals are one part that are sometimes not consistently accurate to oem spec from brand to brand and even within the same brand. If the case neck is oem spec (28.2mm), any oem spec crystal should be a light 'push fit' (by hand) down over the case neck. It should not be tight enough to stress the crystal. Crack!. It should not be loose enough on the case neck to slide back and forth at all because the inner bezel will have to: 1...First, take up the slack between the case neck and crystal. 2...Second, clamp the crystal to the case neck. Because the inner bezel is doing 'double duty' you can not accurately tell if the pressure required to press the bezel down over the crystal is from shrinking the crystal down on the case or actually clamping the crystal down. Crystals that are loose on the case neck can also be too big for the inner bezel to start down over them evenly. I have a 'T&E collection' of aftmkt crystals and go by trial and error until the fit is right. I have had good luck with Clark and GS. After you push the crystal down over the case neck, measure the OD with a precision digital caliper (a must have). Then measure the ID of the inner bezel. If the inner bezel is about .1 to .15mm smaller that the crystal it will usually be Ok. Usually. No guarantees. This is one 'hobby' where the $pending curve can rapidly outpace the learning curve.
    1 point
  14. Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G960F met Tapatalk
    1 point
  15. Can my 16750 Matte Dial join in...
    1 point
  16. Khanjar Verstuurd vanaf mijn F5321 met Tapatalk
    1 point
  17. Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G928F met Tapatalk
    1 point
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