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Found this on youtube. Enjoy Gentlemen!! I enjoyed it. The question now is who makes the best rolex replica crown since most of the master craftsmen are declining?

I’ve been active and buying them lately. Here is my small collection that I collected in the last 2 months Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A little bit more aging and some proper pics of my recently completed 6350 Gilt honeycomb goodness

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Ah Gun jam.. The 6350 build thread. The Original explorer

"The inside diameter for where I think the gasket should go is around 33mm." Case back gaskets are sized (and ordered) by the inside diameter and thickness (cross section measurement). "Generally speaking, I think some people would order an inside diameter that is 1 mm smaller than the inside diameter to stretch the gasket into the groove." Using an undersized gasket can allow it to crawl out of the groove and get between the case and case back when tightening the case back. With small cross section gaskets you may not notice it. "I'm guessing the thickness of the gasket should be between .80 and 1mm?" If the correct gasket thickness is unknown, it will depend on the width and depth of the gasket groove. You want the gasket to compress enough to properly seal the case while making sure the gasket is not so big in diameter that it does not allow the case back to seat against the case. This usually involves trial and error. You might be surprised at how little the O ring has to compress to seal the case. Lightly lubricate the case back threads with grease...$Fomblin$ etc to prevent galling/seizing. I use Krytox GPL 205 on screw down threads and gaskets, silicone grease on snap back gaskets. Note...many types of grease can dissolve rubber gaskets over time. $Fomblin$, Krytox, and silicone grease do not. Silicone grease is not the best for lubricating threads but it is better than nothing. Do not over tighten the case back. All you need to do is snug it down tight enough to fully compress the gasket and keep the back from coming loose. I will never understand why so many rolex etc case backs are cranked down so tight. Maybe to keep fools like me out of them...

One of the old timers, and a one time forum favorite : MBW 1680

Mate it's just so crazy.... What you have done is soooo amazing[emoji7]. I can't find words to describe my admiration. Just wow. I'll use your thread as a guide for my classic builds... Sent from my Lenovo K53a48 using Tapatalk

I've been on this forum for some time now, been off for a bit and just recently came back to check. I see lots of new members joining and see similar questions that I have seen years ago. So I thought I just want to pass on some of my insights as a small time collector to the bros here. 1. Almost all reps will have issues - get used to it. Problems could range from movement stopping, bracelet breaking, hand stack not aligned, and other cosmetics issues. The only rep that didn't give me any issues was a Rolex all gold which was one I seldom wear. My advice would be to find a good watchmaker who is happy to work with reps. 2. Resolving issues - sending problematic watches back to the dealer is bit of pot luck, you could sometimes get lucky and the watch is repaired properly. In my experience, the hit rate is about 50%, so some watches that were sent back came back with the issue not fixed. I think best bet is not to send them back, try to get local repairer or if you could find one in this site. 3. Even so called trusted dealers here can be dodgy at time - my experience is that even when you buy Swiss movement, you could actually end up with an Asian / Chinese movement. I have had gotten a watch which I thought I paid more for Swiss but when it was repaired, the watchmaker told me it's just Asian movement. So my advice is don't pay more for fancy movements which is marketing hype, just buy the ones with the Asian movement which is usually $50 cheaper or thereabouts. Then get it serviced and it should last a long time. 4. Which is best rep i.e best Sub etc? - the cheeky answer is the Gen one. Unless you are prepared to spend $$ to mod and replace parts, any rep is still just that , a clone. It will not match the gen. Having said that these days there are some very good clones. Think you can find some threads on some good ones. My advice is really to find a rep (style / design) that you like and just get it. If it makes you happy then that's all that matters. 5. Learn, and continue learning - this forum is full of experts who can tell you all the intricacies of the various models. This hobby can be addictive, and only way you can become knowledgeable is to keep reading and researching not just in this forum, but other forums too and even on forums about the gen watches. I like to think the members here who has contributed so much knowledge to the community. Well done guys! Have fun!

noob 5.1 on top VS noob 3.5 "wet" below

Very nice indeed! Congrats!

5517 today

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6350 Explorer 1

Happy 4th to my southern Neighbours. [emoji482] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh yes, very nice. I didn't want to rain on your parade but it seriously needed a different crystal. This is a huge step in the right direction. Well done!

@kinkinza I have just also taken the opportunity to decide that I will put a 20% premium on servicing or modifying Breitlings. They go toward the sacrifice of my ocular health.

Another shot of it on a vintage art piece I made ...

That is an achievement and a watch to be very proud of. You can scrub the "Noob" from your thread titles now, work like that commands respect

How could I miss this thread. I'm thinking of a future 6542 project. I will follow closely your progress. [emoji632]