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New strap came in today... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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might sell it for $1100, or equal trade but other then that im savin up for the 6204 case

15% more than you paid as a finders fee. [emoji6] I do t think the stem height will work with my JMB caseset otherwise I would have one hella cool Franken 6350. [emoji1362] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

what you willing to pay? haha this is actually a nice movement too, the balance is good, i just need to service it. im gonna wait on that tho

Have a good one gents [emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Some rep vs gen

6538 I can definitely see the date!

Sent from me

Continuing with my lume practice and experimenting, tonite I have a sterile faux-gilt submariner dial from RT. For this one I tried a different technique. I applied the lume as I would normally but once the plot was done I “dry brushed” some dark brown lume pigment onto the top of the wet lume. By dry brush, I mean I took the oiler fresh and still with some wet lume on it, dipped it into a pile of dry pigment, then carefully applied the dry pigment granules to the plot. I think it’s a fairly successful attempt at aging tritium that has turned inconsistently dark and pebbled on the top of the plot. Because it takes a little extra time, I had to mix a second batch of lume half way through.

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Gen 424 😘

I picked up this solid gold gen for the ever-patient Ms Nanuq for $220

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I agree that double ARs look nice for some watches, but for APs, it actually makes the watch look inaccurate as gen AP crystals are all single AR. Also, the double AR accentuates the flaws on the tapisseries and printing for the rep. Double AR crystals are also prone to surface scratches and marring. My gen 15400, with single AR crystal

Big difference indeed, the one without AR looks cloudy here; nothing better than this upgrade !

"But your lathe is professional (big tool) or those little lathe for model building?" I have enlarged quite a few dial windows and dial seats with a small Sherline precision lathe with the case mounted in a three or four jaw chuck. A three jaw chuck is more or less self centering but it still may be off a few hundredths mm or more. A four jaw chuck is more of a hassle because the part to be machined has to be centered with a dial indicator or something similar. For something like a dial window, I mount a pointer and adjust the jaws until the object is centered using the pointer to check runout...or just eyeball it. A three jaw chuck is good for making something start to finish without removing it from the chuck. A three jaw chuck will probably be Ok for enlarging dial seats and windows as long as you 'chuck it up' a few times to get it as true as possible before cutting. A four jaw chuck is more precise but a hassle to set up and you have to adjust it every time you r/r the project. You might need to grind tool bits to make the cuts and this may take longer than the lathe work. A friend has a machine shop but I find it easier to do close work like this on the Sherline lathe. Big machinery can be a hassle to work around and many of the accessories are too big for watch cases etc. Attach the case in the three or four jaw chuck by clamping it inside the case where the case back threads are when enlarging the dial window. I clamp the case in the lathe using the 'case neck' where the crystal is mounted when enlarging the dial seat. You have to be careful not to clamp the case too tight and scratch or distort the case neck. I have clamped the case in the lathe with a (used) crystal mounted to prevent scratches on the case neck but usually not. Sometimes the case back threads and dial window are not concentric. It's rare but I have seen it and it was not enough to matter. Off topic...also have seen some cases with uneven lugs that will rock back and forth on a level surface...a few were genuine vintage DJ. The case backs screwed down Ok so they must not have been bent, maybe the lugs were finished differently on the bottom side. Had a genuine Seamaster 300 that was 'egg shaped'...the case back would come off (with effort) but not screw back on. Had to round it out in a small arbor press and run the case back on and off 15 or 20 times with fine automotive valve lapping compound on the threads. If you can figure out a way to spin the case more or less precisely (and not too fast), you can probably enlarge the dial window with sandpaper. The dial seat will be harder to sand to size. Maybe try this...if you have a spare case back, drill a hole in the center and put a screw through the hole from the inside. Tighten a nut against the case back on the outside. Chuck the screw in an electric drill and sand the dial window while spinning the case in the drill. You may need a helper...and a medic. Ha! No matter how you do it, practice on a low $$ case first if possible.

66

Can my 16750 Matte Dial join in...

Retro:-) Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G960F met Tapatalk