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And so it starts, my headlong dive into a trio of gen-stein-franken-Tudors. It started with a 17j Tudor ETA 2784. Picked it up off VRF for a reasonable price. Or so I thought until I discovered not only did it need a full service cleaning but replacement automatic works Bridge, keywords needed to be rebuilt, and a new balance required (still waiting on the balance). Regardless this inspired the first project, a blue 9411/0. - MQ Case w/ lugs reshaped, CG’s reshaped, tube retapped, chamfers recut, and repolished. - WSO Tension Spring (en route) - Clark’s 7030 Tube (en route) - Gen 704 Crown (I know 702 is correct but I came into this one for free) - TC Hand Set (aged in organic Pacific saltwater, reluming forthcoming) - Phong Insert (aging forthcoming) - Phong Dial (reluming forthcoming) - Erika’s Original MN Strap The pleasure of working on genuine movements and gen spec VN cases inspired me to continue the trajectory into these gen-stein-franken-Tudors. I’m partial to them for their cost - Rolex movements are out of control. Tudor movements are still reasonable, parts are readily available, and easy to work on. Ive decided to continue working my way back in time. The next two movements that arrived today are an ETA 2462 and an ETA 2461. Both picked up for a bargain on WUS and sold as “great running condition”. Hardly the case... The 2462 was missing a barrel bridge screw and someone installed the wrong screw in the minute c o ck. I was able to harverst those from the 2461 and it was off and running nicely. It even came with an interesting Tudor crown. The 2461 is now missing the two above mentioned screws plus the winding pinion, and stem. Hopefully a few parts and it’ll be up and running. And now begins the hunt for 7021 and 7016 case/dial/etc. I think I’m going to go for a 7928 dial on the 7016 and a black snowflake on the 7021. Guess what this is all leading me towards? Hunting for a Tudor 390 movement to eventually build a 7922 big crown. Oh the rabbit hole....

Mister Skanky gets some exercise today

Wow. Well done. That hand work turnout great. This week I had to sand down the tip of the hour hand on my Milgauss 1019 You know your deep in it when your shaping hands. [emoji38][emoji38] It is very delicate work but the results are well with it. Good job ! I like the seconds hand. Very unique. I have one on my 6350 and it’s very distinctive. Love it. Awesome work bro. [emoji482] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hum ... sorry but no [emoji6] After reading what automatico an Sogeha said about that model and knowing that it's sold about 1/2 the price ... I can't give a link because I'll buy it. Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk Thanks !!! really informative and helpfully. It seems that at $90 it's a steak ... about 1/2 the price. That baby's coming to me [emoji16] Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk Thanks !!! Good news, as I already have a spare WSO 5413 bezel assembly [emoji16] Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk

I don't think it matters whether you work from above or below, as long as you keep the blade perpendicular to the hand itself (on the z axis). I ended up doing whatever was easiest based on the fact that I had to hold the hand in my left hand carefully without bending it. Just light pressure and many passes to keep things even, it's easy to go too far by accident. The Raffles 6204 minute hand is the full 13mm, which ended up being too long for my chapter ring. I'm not sure what the exact size of the chapter ring is on gen dials, but 26mm is right to the edge of my "gen spec" case, so my chapter ring is more like 25mm. Depending on the size of your chapter ring you might have to shorten the hand. I merely cut off the tip square and basically whittled a new point. I was worried that I'd never be able to make a good looking, even point, but again it wasn't as hard as I imagined. Just go easy because the damn things are 25 dollars a set JK hands: http://www.jkhorological.com/Product-detail.php?product-id=2477 The JK minute hand isn't terrible but it has some issues that are impossible to correct in my view. Can't wait to see the result, your milsub is going to be a monster

Gonna take the Tour Auto out for a drive.

I'm in Finland, drop me a pm and I will get you booked in

Real nice 👍. Very nice clean dial - ultimate clarity on these. Picked up a Gen LHD just recently and I haven’t been as impressed with a watch for years!!

6538

Actually I think it might be no harm to have found us after gaining a little understanding of the rep game. We look like an also ran on the face of it, because we are a quiet little haven of peace. However as Mike said, we have the guys with knowledge. I am constantly awed by the technical knowledge and horological repair skills here, my ability and confidence has rocketed in my time here, but never for one minute do I consider myself anything more than a total beginner I am proud to serve you guys and happy to do so for as long as the community wants me to. You all know how to reach me if you need me at any time

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Whoppy DRSD

Of the 4 rep boards I'm aware of, I stumbled upon this one last, which is unfortunate because it's far and away the best community and best knowledge base, IMO. My understanding of vintage builds took off once I found this place, even though it's the one forum without a vintage section

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Ready for the weekend [emoji57] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi guy Sorry if I'm a little harsh but ... do you ever read advices ? You keep on buying overpriced (IMHO) parts since last October (so 4 months ago) and it seems you want to keep on that way !!! Sorry to read that ... Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk

Pam 662 on gen strap.

The crown clutch, tube and all will unscrew from the crown cap on 7mm crowns with the steel or gold 'bottle caps' crimped over a base metal inner frame. The last one I had apart was the type of crown made with a skirt for the O ring on the outside of the case tube so it was a later model. I use a 'ww' type chuck in an old 8mm 'watchmaker lathe' to grip the clutch tube and hold the lathe still by the drive pulley while unscrewing the cap from the tube. A pin vise will work if you can get it tight enough to keep it from slipping and scratching the outside of the tube. Once it is apart the trouble will be easy to spot...maybe a weak spring, maybe a bad center tube where the stem screws in etc. Check the spring before taking it apart...does it have enough tension to push the setting works from time set position to winding position before it contacts the case tube threads (assuming the stem is cut to the correct length)? Does it always snap back into the extended position when 'push in' pressure is released? To check the clutch, remove the crown and stem from the watch and hold the stem in soft jaw pliers or a pin vise and see if the crown slips internally while turning the crown both ways with a little bit of 'pull apart' tension applied to the stem and crown. It should not slip when 'pulled apart' and turn freely when compressed. Use Loctite when putting it back together, taking care not to get any inside the clutch. Also use a tiny bit of grease on the internal clutch parts...KT22 etc. I have not tried to remove a tube and clutch assembly from a later 'mono block' type 7mm crown.

Never too much wrist-time for that one [emoji41] Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

Looking at this watch.. something still wasn't right. I thought: I finally have hands that are the correct length and general proportions, but they nonetheless look off. I looked around at some gen flat hands, and what I noticed is how incredibly thin they are structurally. Compared to mine: 🎳 Gen is on the left. I knew what must be done.. The thought of trying to thin out tiny, delicate hands while somehow maintaining their perfect lines seemed like it would end in disaster, but I had to give it a shot. I started with the minute hand. After removing the lume, I simply held it by the post hole and scraped a #11 blade at about a 45° angle against the interior of the two columns that hold up the pointed tip. After about 20 passes of shaving off small bits of metal, making sure to remove material evenly from the entire interior of the lume plot, I stopped to check the work. Before long, I had nice, thin columns. I thought: this is great, but surely the complex curves of the hour hand will be a different story. I noticed that just about everything on the hour hand needed trimming: the interior of the point, the whole ball of the Mercedes logo, and the rectangular plot at the bottom, which needed to be lengthened all the way to the post. I set to work, and soon realized that curves are even easier and more forgiving than straight lines. The hardest part was extending the bottom plot and keeping right angle corners square.. even the tiny tip of the #11 blade starts to round them out if you're the slightest bit imprecise. After about an hour of work on each hand, I was able to get a satisfying result: They aren't perfect, but overall, I was really surprised how easy and forgiving it is to alter these hands, and I'd recommend to anyone that they order some spares and give it a shot. It was a lot easier than luming my dial 😓. I'm sure that someone skilled with a rotary tool could get better results in less time. My big ball second hand was an unfortunate casualty in this experiment; it was just too thin and flimsy to work with after I've over-sanded it trying to get an even finish, and I mangled it trying to shave down the tip. So this was a two steps forward, one step back sort of endeavor, and my nice looking hour and minute have to endure being stationed with a crummy generic sweep second hand for now.

I tried "both ways" and I found it easier to do do from the dial side. Plus you can put some grease where needed on the keyless works so that it works smoothly. But I'll have a look at this video nevertheless Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk