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New hands, new dial… Theses hands are perfect, thanks again for your great work @slay

Thank you Automatico, JackFlash, and a lot of other people in addition to the whole forum who helped me over the years I've been learning. This 5513 is by no means perfect but I definitely could not have gotten this far with getting the look I want without this forum. Thank you! The dial and hands are HR and I used watercolor markers to make the indicators and hands slightly yellowed. The key is to use one that is ochre colored and to also use a clear one so you can blend or erase. The dial was given a light spray of matte lacquer. The pictures don't show it but it really gives it a nice matte finish and you have to do this if you use water colors on the indicators or they would change/disappear. The crystal is a PA 462-67 from Otto Frei. This was the only Tropic 19 from Otto Frei that seemed to fit. The MQ case definitely uses 28.2mm as the case neck and not the smaller 28.03mm diameter found on early submariners. So the other generic tropic 19's were too small and would crack. It would be interesting to try other tropic 19's though, I wonder if other famous crystals like the german Tropic 19 or genuine Rolex tropic 19's would work? The midcase is a 5513 replica from MQ Vietnam. The caseback is a HR 5513 caseback. (It not only fits perfectly, but even the genuine spec O-ring gaskets fit perfectly so I think HR really replicated the 5513 caseback. I wonder why he won't try to make gen. spec 5513 midcases? The bezel assembly minus the pearl is from Watchman408 on Ebay. (Great guy, highly recommend, he makes sure the insert fits snugly into the bezel and that the bezel snaps onto the retaining ring if you ask him to check before shipping) WSO parts from Ebay never fit and are utter crap in my experience. I bleached the insert before attaching the Athaya pearl. The 702 crown replica and the pearl are from Athaya The movement (for now) is a SeaGull 2824-2 with datewheel removed and no spacer since that's all that will fit in a gen. spec 5513 case until I buy a 1520, 1530, or 1570 movement in the near future. I used a Yuki ETA adapter movement holding ring which was a little too big in diameter so I had to gently remove material until it fit perfect. This was fine because it's Okay if it's too big, you can always remove material but not add any. I don't know if Yuki error's on the side of too big so you can remove or if maybe Seagull 2824-2's are .3 or .5 mm bigger in diameter than Gen. ETA 2824-2? Either way, not big deal. I took my time to lock the movement down really snug, because I wear my watches hard so I didn't want any slop. Just like you guys taught me, the stem will still not perfectly line up when you put a 2824-2 in a 5513 case. It will work but I notice the stem has weird problems when you try to install, remove, or set the times every now and then. I got it working and the watch is watertight to at least over 200 feet so I'll just leave it as it until I buy a rolex movement. I used a DIY waterproof tester and the watch easily passed 200 feet of water resistance. I think it can go higher but the DIY waterpoof tester might explode if I go beyond 200 feet of water pressure and unlike you lucky bastards across the pond, hospital visits are expensive for me. I paddleboard in the ocean fishing and lobster diving (only to 35 feet) and surf. I can't take a phone with me and I lose track of time out on the water so it's good to have a watch back on my wrist. I'm hoping to find a 1520 or 1570 no date movement which if I understand correctly, will drop right in to gen. 5513 spec cases so at that time I will probably just buy a Vietnam dial and hands.

@Bart Cordell just fantastic I received my handset too and they are just right, can't wait to get started on another watch.

Sorry for the late reply! The engravings have been done by@neckyzips Here are some more pics of the case further refined with engravings, shape adjustments and refinished with lapping and brushing.

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