cjjoyce1

+1 Me too. There have been improvements to this movement over the years too. I put one of these newer ones in my 1675 when they came out - and transplanted the old one into a Seamaster GMT. Both are unserviced and run flawlessly after several years. The one in my 1675 is +4 sec/day per Kello, but I've never had to reset it - and has a 38-40hr power reserve. But everyone turns their noses up at 'em. Can't figure out why. Also, drop in. No stem height issues in a gen case or canon pinon height problems/sunken datewheel, period.

haha - his DECK is bigger than my HOUSE! (I'm in NH too)

It's also astonishing when you consider that at one time Daytona's were poor sellers and were bargain priced in the sports model line up. It's one thing to see some G.I. bought a 1680 or 5513 at the PX in Southeast Asia for $125 compared to what it's worth today - but a Daytona?? Whew!

I looked at that too, but I magnified the photo. You can see it actually has three notches. Therefore I vote "real"

Awesome piece. Sometimes you find these incorrectly listed as yachtmasters because of the bezel

I like how there are flush mount screw holes in the case holder to mount it to your bench. Between screwing that to the bench and a two handed opener handle, I wonder just what kind of torque value Rolex was expecting to be imparted sealing an oyster. Although we all know it's easier to crank on a caseback than get it off.

It no theory. Compare the first three DWO's in the pic compared to the last two. The white and gold came from mansionhousemanor, and the first silver one came from a M2M deal on one of the forums. Of the second two, the silver DWO on the right is made from one of JMB's water slide decals and the other white one came from a sub (of unknown origin) I swapped for a BK in another members watch. Look at the first three. The numbers get progressively closer to the inside of the overlay in the teens, are the closest in the twenties, then move back out. Just look at the 1's in the teens. Now compare that to even Polexpete's overlay - nice and evenly spaced. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ETA-movement-part-date-disc-silver-2824-2836-2893-rolex-oyster-date-/121587655451? Pretty hard to center up a DWO that isn't concentric in the first place.

Do yourself the favor and justice of making that build 100% gen on the outside - you'll never regret it! I know I never have..

What this problem is actually about has to do with skewed printing. If you look at many of the DWO's produced in the last 4-5 years you'll notice that the numbers from 20 - 29 all get progressively closer to the inside edge of the overlay. This isn't a problem of date window size/location. It stands to reason that any dial that can sit under a gen or gen spec crystal with a date mag has the date window in the same location size as the gen. I don't think it's necessary to measure numerous dials. I also think if you're going to use another overlay as your base by which you get measurements you should use a gen overlay. FWIW, I have a polexpete silver overlay under my gen 1675 dial and EVERY date number is just a tweeky bit left justified.

^ This.

Clone http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/175267-gen-eta-2836-2-gmt-movement/?hl=novodiac#entry1384432

Somewhere the artwork on this has already been done and is in this forum - people were making waterslide decals with them. I have a couple of these in my parts bin, but never used them as once they were under magnification, the injet printing was too obvious. A closed 6, hooked 7 version would be cool too.

Grreeeaaaattt. Snobbish outsiders drawing attention once again to our world, even though I know there is a gentleman's agreement of detante. We get enough trolls around here as it is. Can't wait for the hoards... Join Date - 32 seconds ago Posts - 2 "I have a Priceless John Maher PN Daytona that I need a bezel for. Can you help me source a new one from a rep dealer? What I would really like is an NOS gen one, but I just don't know where to get a good one that I can tell is really gen."

So, so much better! Well done!

I thought the Seville dial may have been bigger because the dial feet actually fit into the spacer holes (seen next to the movement claw catches) not the movement - but in measuring it, the old dial is still only 28.5ish mm. The dial feet are only relocated further toward the outside of the dial to accommodate the day wheel - I was hoping the dial was bigger - sorry.

What if you sourced a Bulova Super Seville spacer ring? I once bought a Seville for the higher pinion 2836 to use in a Datejust franken build. I was able to use the larger plastic spacer in place of the raffles #2 after a bit of shaving, but it was about as close to a stilty spacer ring as you could get. Worked awesome.

Yeah, I'd love to know where to source one!

Any gen Rolex crown of any mm size, in SS or gold - with the exception of the latest 704 monobloc series - will have a crimped base. Forget all the nonsense of comparing coronets or whatnot. All you have to do is turn it over. If there are crimped ends, it's gen. If not it's rep.

A nice place to start. I've introduced many friends who "don't like Scotch" to our world through Auchentoshan. Light, sweet, easy to like. Auchentoshan is also a great value IMHO.

Just the tip, just to see how it feels...then we'll talk about using the whole tool

I love the Macallan, which is why my bar is currently devoid of it right now. I went through withdrawal after they stopped making Cask Strength which was my all time favorite.

THAT's right..I forgot that! Hence the 23 jewels

Take your pick...

The ETA 284X movements are essentially slower beat 283X movements, not 282X. They have different balance bridge assemblies, but the rest is basically the same. As such, the standard dial to pinion heights and stem heights are the same between the 284X and 283X.

Absolutely. The railroad industry fueled the need for accurate, reliable timepieces.