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TenJed69

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  1. Thanks. When I asked about pleats I meant for a business suit, I'd instinctively never wear pleated trousers casually!
  2. Thanks for the advice. I'm getting a suit made to measure, and I think from now on I'll get my sports jackets (which is what I normally wear) made to measure as well. I'm 5'9" and a little overweight. Don't want to overstate that, I'm not hideously obese or anything. Think Alec Baldwin in The Departed, 30 Rock etc. Based on what I've read so far I'm thinking: No cuffs on my trousers and a low rise, to make me look taller. A single vent on the jacket as I gather the others are better for slimmer men or to show off a good butt? Seems to be conflicting advice on pleats. Some places say pleats are better for larger men as they hide unsightly bulges, while others say they just have no place and you should wear flat fronted regardless since pleats merely draw attention to that area. Also split on two vs three button jacket. Three button is said to conceal a guy better, but other places say a business suit should be two button regardless. What about things like regular vs kissing buttons, shirt cuffs (round, square, French etc), shirt collars (tall, short, French etc)? I've read that peaked lapels are preferable but tbh even if it's just me being ignorant I think they draw attention to themselves so pretty sure I'll go with notched. I have brown hair and I'm a little pale, thought not like a ghost. What would be a good colour for a suit? What about sports jackets/trousers?
  3. So I'm coming to the end of university and I'm going to be having graduate job interviews and soon enough starting on my career. I'm ambitious, and it seems to me that dressing well is, apart from anything else, another tool in the toolbox to getting ahead in life. For that reason I'm looking to revamp my style and start dressing properly. This I have never done before. Where can I find a good book or online guide that will basically teach me how to dress myself, to put it frankly? I'm talking, how to pick a suit or clothing in general, an outfit, that fits my body shape, complexion, matches, puts across the image I want it to and so on. I've so far been recommended Alan Flusser's 'Dressing the Man' and Nicholas Antongiavanni's 'The Suit: A Machiavellian Approach' so any opinion on them or other suggestions would be much appreciated.
  4. I have a V2 Chronomat Evo. The crown slowly started to get harder to screw back in, it would 'slip' out and not stay stuck in, taking a couple of tries to get it to stick. Finally it stopped sticking at all and now cannot be screwed in. My first question is, how can I tell if it's the stem that has stripped, or the threads in the case itself? Secondly, if it's the stem, can I order a replacement stem somehow? I'm looking to buy a second BCE so I'd like a couple on hand in case this happens again. Presumably I can then take it to the watchmaker in town and he can replace it (he's fixed a rep movement for me before). Thanks.
  5. Thanks guys, a friend was asking, I'll tell her to stick to the official Tiffany site.
  6. Is there anywhere you can buy genuine Tiffany & Co jewelry that is cheaper than buying direct from Tiffany? There's a couple of sites like sterlingtiffany.com that claim to offer genuine Tiffany at a (substantial) discount but I suspect they're scams selling reps. Anyone know anywhere actually selling the real deal?
  7. I recently got a 6.75. The dial is very good, virtually flawless. There are three tells so far as I know on the outside of the watch. First, the chrono second hand is a little too short. Second, the date is too sunken compared to the gen. Third, the cap for the slide-rule gears on the side of the case is too high. It has the correct 60s chronograph, it's the Motors that is supposed to have the 30s chrono. The Speed bracelet it came with looks good but was too stiff to wear when I got it by a long shot. I'm wearing it on the moo-croc deployment strap I got, and I'll put it on the bracelet when I've oiled it up to see which I prefer. The lume on the hour and minute hands is much brighter than on my BCE, but the lume on the hour markers is useless. It only has a light AR coating on the inside so it doesn't have the disappearing dial that a gen does (at least not from an angle) but I'll fix that by getting it re-coated. The movement is much smoother than my BCE, but there's no quick set date so far as I can tell, it seems to be wither in 'wind' or 'set time' mode, with nothing in-between. Not sure if that's correct for the gen or not.
  8. Ignore me, solved the problem I think :-P
  9. How is the Bentley Motors model? What position is the sub seconds at and does this affect the reliability of the movement? Does it have the 30-second chronograph like the gen does? How does the slide rule line up with the dial? Are the pushers/crown offset as on the gen (though it's hard to tell because of the case design)? How is the AR coating? How does the white dial look? How does it stand up to a Super Avenger or Skyland Avenger?
  10. Ok, he must have a new site then. I thought it was him but his site is different now. Thanks guys :-)
  11. There was a watch dealer I remember. I think he was in the UK. His website was quite snazzy, made in flash. As you moved your cursor over the various categories (Rolex, Breitling etc) it made a really loud clicking sound. When you selected an individual watch there was then a slideshow of various images of it that you could cycle through (I think... might have been a gallery). There was no facility to buy through the site, it was just an elaborate picture repository IIRC. Anyone know who I'm thinking of?
  12. The AR coating is stunning when you get it. However, mine has worn off after many months - most likely from rubbing away fingerprints on the crystal with a cloth. It's still coated on the inside obviously, so it still looks better than, say, a Rolex (no AR at all) but not as good as when I got it/a gen. I had my rep pressure tested but it failed - ok for rain or in the shower the guy said, but don't try swimming with it. Some people get lucky and can go diving with theirs though, just luck of the draw.
  13. As I understand it the old Super Avengers in that price range are rubbish. The $260 ones are very good.
  14. The ASC is quartz only (A73390), the AS is automatic only (A13380). The ASC has magnetic pushers, the AS has traditional mechanical pushers. The ASC has a helium release valve which the AS does not have. The ASC is a 3, 6, 9 subdial layout as opposed to a 12, 6, 9 on the AS. The subdials on the ASC have very obvious vertical lines on half of them, on the AS they only the 6 o'clock subdial has lines, and they're very hard to see. The ASC has silver hands, the AS has white plastic ones. The ASC bezel has only full stick markers, the AS has 5 degree numerals and partial stick markers. The ASC has a compass rehaut, the AS has a 100 degree rehaut. The ASC has square lume markers on all the numerals except 12, which has a triangle, and 3, 6 and 9, which have dots. On the AS all the numerals have dot lume markers, no squares or triangles. The ASC has a yachting counter between 11 and 12, this is absent on the AS. The ASC is 40g heavier. The ASC is .6mm thicker. The ASC is brushed, the AS is polished. I think the texturing on the crowns are very slightly different.
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