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Everything posted by alligoat

  1. But wait- it has an original Rolex rotor! LOL! Is that a 2789-1 movement? So what's you theory on the same SN?
  2. 1680 sub 16800 sub 16610 sub pretty boring, but there's a bunch of other watches, 5508, 6238, 6239, 1016, 5513 and the list goes on... A WIS or a watchaholic- which is it?
  3. Looks like a Sellita would be a little less- maybe around $180. ETA would be a little more- this is for the 2824-2/SW200 versions. I'd expect similar for the 2836-2/SW220. Seagull clones are quite a bit less- $60 or so. ST-2130 is the 2824-2 clone and ST2100 is the 2836-2 clone. This came from eBay.
  4. https://rwg.cc/topic/196701-rolex-sub-franken-help/#comment-1574728 This is from 6 months ago Things that are still true 1. very few gen parts are available- most of them are high priced fakes 2. using a gen 1030 movement is a waste of time and good money- you can do it, but the pros discourage it. What impresses me the most is the guys that can build a nice rep for $400-1000, one that's aged and looks the part. You can spend $4,000 -7,000, but what do you have? An overpriced replica. One that 99.99% of the people could give a $hit about. Oops, that was a year and 6 months ago!
  5. Building a 6538 is simply a question of how much do you want to spend? Phong is the top of the line so to speak, but I wouldn't recommend putting a 1030 movement in any watch so that leaves you with a case and a dial- looking for a movement. 2846-2s are a good slow beat ETA, but don't know if it will fit in the 6538 case. A slow beat 2824-2 would be another possibility- but that's somewhat of a misnomer since 2824s are all 28,800 bph. But maybe you could find an older ETA that's the predecessor to the 2824 with the 21,600 beat or even a 18,000 beat and close to the 4.6mm heigth. You could check out Ruby for a little less money. http://rubyswatch.com/Products/watch-cases/sub-c6538 Get the case and dial and once again you're looking for a movement, but it's probably a fair amount cheaper than Phong. HR, Helenarou has a 6538 and it used to be that you could get the branded 6538 with an ETA clone for around $500-600 maybe- you just have to ask since they don't publish it on the site. I ran across a 6538 on Trusty- might be a good place to go first- see how you like the watch and maybe even try some case reshaping yourself. https://trustytimewatch88.io/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_11&products_id=15561 But the problem with Trusty these days is he'll say he can't get the watch anymore- it's out of stock. Last time he told me that, I went to Marvellous and he got me the watch I wanted. I'm not sure what Silix's deal is these days- last time I tried to go there it messed up my computer. Rolojack is a master of case reshaping but he's MIA these days. That leaves you to age your own case- bang it up, smooth it down, repeat. Google 6538 and check out the pics and go to work.
  6. Well, I'd like to see a price for a 1680, but I'd assume it's about the same as a 1655 or the 1675 from 1975- around $450 or so. I bought a 1500 Date in 2006 for $1100- today those watches are going for $3K-5K- crazy!
  7. So beautiful in its simplicity! Is Yuki still around?
  8. Those Houston GTGs seem like ancient history! And RWG.cc has slowed down considerably. RWI seems fairly active but it's a group more focused on the modern Rolexes it seems. I'm even surprised that I've hung in here as long as I have, but I still enjoy watch collecting. I was reading up on the Zenith El Primero 3019 PHC today- it's a watch movement that's over 50 years old- came out in 1969 originally and it had a rebirth of sorts in 1988-9 when Rolex contracted with Zenith to provide the movement for the next generation of Daytonas like the 16520. Rolex reduced the movement from 36000 bph to 28800 and did away with the date feature. 10 or 12 years ago I got in on a group buy from Phong and got a pretty decent discount on a 6238 case. You might see if if he would cut you a better deal on the 16520 case. Ruby is ok, but I don't know if she has the 16520 case. I have read that MQ can be difficult to deal with and sending money to Vietnam has never excited me. From time to time people around here have built the 16520, but Ubiquitous, Randy, is the only one I remember. Haven't seen him around in a while but he was very helpful to me in the early days when I was building franken DJs- but that was 15 years ago!
  9. Phong comes to mind http://jewelryandwatch.com/contents/en-us/d145.html You might check rubyswatch.com- there's a listing for the case but nothing shown. http://vintagewatchesmq.com/minhquy/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=122&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1 Minh Quy is another possibility.
  10. Welcome aboard! Here's an easy one- rafflesdials.com https://rafflesdials.com/watch-dial/milsub-dials/ The 26 mm dial is for a Rolex case or decent quality replica case. The 29 mm dial is for the standard chinese replica cases. You might check raffles for a crown- not sure what he has, but it would be rep. I don't know of anyone in the LA area but check around. Good luck
  11. The ARF 16610 is a decent place to start- hope it's still available. https://trustytimewatch88.io/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_7&products_id=22886 TC is gone, JF is gone and maybe morphed into ARF, but that's about all there is today. The Startime supply 16610 replacement case hasn't been seen in a while, so I guess it's gone. https://www.startimesupply.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=1610bc009d0487e9e0bcab63d8a20f30&Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=1&Category_Code=1_07_1D_Rolex_Case&Product_Code= It looks like the Trusty ARF has a SH3135 movement- I didn't do well with mine- bad autowind assembly, and weak date change and decent parts to fix was going to be too expensive. I opted instead to get a VR3135 for around $160 and it's doing fine. The BP 16610 may still be around and is a cheaper alternative- it looks ok but has a non-gen bezel assembly. TC went to Ginault and a few people have used the Ginault case as a basis to build a 16610 but that's a more expensive path to take- could easily run $1500-2000 or more.
  12. The VR 3135 is the best clone movement. I personally wouldn't buy a watch with the clone 3235 movement- not sure how reliable they are. Another choice is to get a DJ with the A2824- at least watchmakers can deal with that movement.
  13. I always think of F520117 as the original noob. Later there was one- M092117, a second gen noob. After that I moved on to an MBW, WM9 and ST3035 because of the gen like construction. TC, JF and ARF(?) followed. I think of the other SNs- like D320840 as cartel watches. One of the earliest of the cartel subs was R863698, also seen as Y863698. Sometimes these cartel cases would be used for other watches like the GMTs and YMs- the chinese would just swap out for the appropriate bezel insert. They could be made into decent reps by trimming the cgs, swapping out the bezel insert and maybe installing a gen crown and tube. I do have a Y863698 sub case that's in decent shape- trimmed cgs, decent insert. With a noob dial, some hands and a movement, I could build a budget/beater 16610, but I need another beater like a hole in the head.
  14. Finding a watch case with a plastic crystal is going to be a challenge. I didn't see anything on eBay. It looks like Rubyswatch.com has them Products | Ruby Watches (rubyswatch.com) But I would figure around $600 for a case. Yuk! I didn't look at Ruby's dials- I'd allow $350-400 though just as a guess. Gone are the days when you could build a rep for a decent price. Back in the day- maybe around 2009 I built a 1016: Case- DJ 1601 from Andrew Shear- $132 Dial from LHOOQ- $125- this was a gift in that it was relumed in a vintage relume 2824-2- Swiss NOS- $80 hands from Clark's- say $15 good lume also crown- 24-6000- $35 crystal from Clark's $20 JMB smooth bezel $50- you can't beat that anymore since Justin has retired Mary's bracelet- $55 Watchmaker to put the parts together- $50 So, I spent a little over $600. Watch is WR- at least in the pool. Oh, I used the Clark's DJ springbars, because I wasn't going to drill the DJ lugs to Explorer spec- too close for comfort. But the DJ pins fill the lugholes nicely. I'd figure the big question is can you fit a plastic crystal to a rafflesdials.com explorer case? I'd think it can be done with a little bit of work. And a few plastic crystals!
  15. I don't think JMB is doing the Explorer cases anymore. But rafflesdials.com has cases for $49.99 and dials for $34.99. The cases may have a sapphire/mineral crystal but I don't know if people would notice. You can also get hands, and a bracelet from rafflesdials. A Miyota 8215 movement for $30-40 and I would think you could build a 1016 for around $200 or so.
  16. My first try would be with a 2824-2. Many moons ago I built a 1016 Explorer in a DJ 1601 case and the 2824-2 fit beautifully. If that doesn't work, then I'd try a 2836-2. A 2846-2 would be about the same as the 2836, but they're hard to find these days. A Miyota 8215, dg2813 and the 2836 are all similar in fit and stem location. The 8215 and the 2813 have the slower beat which is closer to the Rolex 1570.
  17. Welcome aboard Eng! you've resurrected an old post that is 10 years old. This is a custom watch that Rolexaddict built back in the day. I don't think he's still active on the forums, I can't recall seeing him post anything in 6-7 years. But the nice thing about RA or JJ as he is sometimes referred to as is that he always was so kind as to tell us exactly how he went about his builds. First, he took a cartel 1655 Explorer II rep with the DG3804 movt. He then modified the case to make it closer to the 1675 case- this in itself is not an easy chore! BTW, the cartel 1665 case is still available as far as I know. Next is the Yuki dial and hands- I don't think Yuki is still around, but I could be wrong. Mary's watches might have a nice GMT dial, but I can't even find Mary's Watch today. Phong is another possibility- jewelryandwatch.com- he should have a GMT dial- maybe not the UAE one used in Rolexaddict's build. WSO's bezel assembly- check out wholesaleoutllet990.com Clark's supply also used to have the 1675 bezel assembly. Nostalgia-2000 on the bay And crystals also- Crystal Ref. # 25-116 116 for Rolex "CLARK" crystals | eBay Finding an aftermarket blue insert shouldn't be too hard- start with Clark's. Aftermarket bracelets can be found at rafflesdials.com Now days it looks like the dial may be the most expensive part. If you were to gather up the parts- maybe less than $1000 usd and then could find someone to build it for you, maybe you could have a nice watch for $1500-2000 usd. Good luck and welcome aboard!
  18. Speaking of MBW, I recently picked up an MBW 1680 from a fellow who wasn't happy with it- couldn't get a gen crystal to fit. This is a later 1680- says 1680 on the case- 5513 like the earlier ones but still has the L462xxx SN. Lugholes were close to gen spec. I installed a 702 tube and crown, trimmed the cgs in the process and had the 2846-2 which I had waiting for such a project serviced and installed the silver dwo. I've sent the MBW white dial and hands off to be relumed and have installed a gen crystal and bezel insert while I wait. Also have a gen 93150 with 580 ends ready to go. I picked up most of the parts 10-12 years ago maybe longer so prices were reasonable. MBW 1680 with swiss 2836-2 and white dial- $350 2846-2- $80 plus $200 to service DWO- $25 702 crown and tube- $100 gen 93150 and 580 ends- $400- c. 2006-8 relume- $100-$150 insert- $80- service insert bought in the late 2000s crystal- maybe $50- they were cheap 15 years ago So, I have $1400 in this watch give or take and an extra swiss eta 2836-2 which is running fine for another project. This is all I'm going to do these days- a good looking rep with a swiss eta and gen parts if I have them. But typically my Rolex reps these days runs $400-700 with a few mods. It's a rep, not a franken!
  19. Having done the franken route with gen movements back in the 2006-9 period, I've definitely quit that path. I built a 5508 with case and dial from NDTrading and a not quite correct 1520 movement from an Air King. I paid $880 for the AK and surprisingly it came with 7835 bracelet with 571 ends- whoppee! I spent $2500 putting the watch together including a service in there. I picked up a couple of gen T-16 crystals in the day for $100 each or so- gone are those days! I could work on making sure that the watch is WR, but I just don't see the point. I do have an older AK with a 1530 movement which would be correct for the 5508, but I haven't gotten around to swapping them out. The older AK with a gold plated case- maybe I paid $1000-1100. I just don't remember. Second watch is a 1803 watch in SS. Picked up a 1556 movement on the bay with a silver day and date wheel for a good price, a redone white dial with silver stick markers and got a 16000 DJ case that Phong modified to accept the 1556 movement. A white dialed 1803 in SS. I love the watch- it flies below the radar. I'm wearing it on a 93150 and call it the Sportman's Day Date. Once again I spent around $2500 putting the watch together. For all around beatability, I like my two DJ frankens- a 16014 and a 16013, both with 2836-2 swiss movements. There are WR tested watches and are great at $500 each
  20. Interesting watch- a knock-off of the first Rolex sub Rare Invicta Men's Homage 1953s COMBAT PRO DIVER Automatic ALL Black IP SS Watch 886678410309 | eBay I like the NH35s that Invicta is using these days
  21. I'm thinking that the NH35 more closely approximates the 2836/2813 and the 3135 is closer to the 2824, so it might tough to fit a 3135 in a NH35 case.
  22. Looks like a Swiss 7750 to me- can't tell if it's a Tudor movement or not- Tudor rotors are a dime a dozen. Not sure about the 16620 marked bracelet, but the 455B ends are rep. But it's a nice chrono with that dial and hands. Finding a gen dial and hands these days would probably be pretty expensive. Enjoy!
  23. Beautiful dial! I ran across this discussion from VRF (18) The Early Rolex Military Submariners. - Vintage Rolex Forum (tapatalk.com)
  24. It would help if you told us what the problem is. If it's a movement issue, it shouldn't be too hard to fix.
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