Resistor

It's too bad that physical pain cannot be delivered to stupid or selfish buyers. I would go insane (more so anyway) if I had to deal with people like that.

SOSF is certainly not an underrated rep...it's just been out forever and is not currently "in style". I have an ancient black dial fish and it's a great watch. In fact, I sold my gen Steelfish years ago because I didn't believe it to be worth $1400 more than my rep.

You can remove AR coating with red Scotchbrite and elbow grease. I much prefer the appearance of an AR'ed crystal, both as reflectivity reduction and the effect it has on the dial's look. If your original coating gets scratched, it can be replaced, but it's not easy to find someone who's available to do it (most crystals have to be coated in multi-piece runs).

I give up. Chronoluvv knows all about Breitling reps and I know a bit. You DO NOT want to handwind an A7750. Good luck with your time bomb if you wish to do so.

Uhhh...this applies to basically any Navitimer rep, as almost all use an A7750 or similar mechanical chrono movement. Are you trolling, or.....

What? That is all pertinent information for a 7750 rep watch.

Almost everyone will say to choose the Asian clones, and for good reason. Even if the dealer says a particular movement is Swiss, he'll either not be sure or you'll receive a piece of Swiss crap which has been run through the ringer, contain Chinese parts, or be a clone which was stamped as an ETA. The radiused baseplate on the Swiss ETA's used to be a hallmark of a genuine movement, but even that has been detected on clones. I always choose clones and my watches run great, without the added cost of a "Swiss" movement.

There is a huge amount of Speedmaster rep info in the Omega guides both here and at the other major forums (RG, RWI, etc). The topic has been covered to death but it doesn't get discussed much these days, since there are no convincing reps outside of the day/date models. Have a look at the pinned Omega guides.

Yes! I've heard about a page!

I agree that the Speedy is a near perfect size. I used to wear big watches (and still wear a Seawolf) but 42mm is the sweet spot for me. My favorite 42mm Omegas:

Noob, if you can find one. There's nothing particularly wrong with the Miyota versions, but the noob with the ETA clones are just so nice. I've had two and they have both been outstanding build quality-wise.

Like you, I try to stay out of political discussion, as my views are not in line with the majority and I'm not well versed enough to argue. I don't see any viable options for fixing our government, as long as money and power are the only things that matter. The entire system needs flushed, but the replacement will last for only 100-200yrs before the same shiz creeps right back in.

Post a WTB thread in the wanted section. I just sold my 2531.80 franken a couple weeks ago and I'm sure others would be willing to part with theirs. You can also check with WackoBirdKeeper - I heard he may still have a couple of new Bond Seamasters for sale.

I'd say it doesn't get much attention because of the fatal subdial spacing flaw. Most people are turned off by discrepancies which are immediately noticeable. In fact, even though the Speedmaster is my favorite watch of all time, I never bought a rep and instead waited for the real thing. Your rep is VERY nice though.

The Noob

Two things I cannot leave the house without: watch and phone. I'll turn the car around and correct the situation, regardless if I'm already late.

Today: Tonight:

I bet the watch is on its way. I've not had any recent tracking which was frequently updated. Typically, the tracking gets updated when the package is delivered to my mailbox. You're probably fine.

Cool! Quite similar to the normal Pelagos though and a nice option for me since 95% of my watches are black. I agree that Rolex's blue is horrendous.

Received a few days ago:

Likely not. The principle behind fading aluminum inserts is the degradation of the anodize dye, or in Nightwatch's case, complete removal of the anodize coating with a highly alkaline solution. Ceramic is not colored with a dye (I believe pigments are added to the precursors during manufacture of the material) so it is probably impervious to attack - one of the reasons manufacturers switched from aluminum to ceramic for their bezels. Don't quote me on this as my only experience with ceramics is the application of non-colored aluminum dioxide via plasma spray.

12F here yesterday, 50F today.

A lot of the variation in the reaction of the insert to the aging process comes down to the thickness and pore size of the anodize and whether or not it was properly sealed following the dye step. Colored anodize generally runs from .0004" to .0008" thick; thicker anodize will hold more dye and will be somewhat more resistant to fading. Similarly, properly sealed (with hot deionized water or nickel acetate) will resist aging since the coating features additional protection from attack by the elements (in this case bleach or saltwater). The bleach actually attacks and dissolves the anodize coating, creating a lighter and lighter color as the dye is leached out and the coating itself is destroyed. There is no way to predict how a particular insert will react so it will be important to start off slow and gradually re-expose the insert to your bleach solution (rinsing in between each step) until your desired color is achieved. Alternately, you can use a strong UV light source to fade the color - this will degrade only the colored dye without harming the anodize itself.