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horologist last won the day on March 9 2020

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    watches both replica and genuine as they all tell the time

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  1. did it screw down all the way up to half a turn before fully tightening or only screwed down for half a turn? This is a great post, which is a very important part of horological but seldom discussed! Thanks to the OP for asking as I was about to attempt to straighten dud threads on my gold 1601 using the case back of a replica! I could have made it worse! years ago I purchased an 18k gold DJ 1601 (head only) with dud threads from a now banned member on rolexforums.com, but the case back threads were squeaking and chattering upon the last few turns! My guess is that it is @#$& and I never attempted to open it again in case i would never be able to close it! I was thinking of sending it to the RSC but never did as they would most likely tell me that I need a new case!
  2. totally agree! There is no close substitute for any natural process! Analogous to the Law of entropy!
  3. Hopefully I won’t be banned for responding to your post.If you have a PAM111 in mint condition-of same quality from trusty or Andrew ( something not too way over the top in the 4 digit mods) please pm me. I was contemplating in building my own but can’t seem to source dial anywhere! The homage watches forum do not take too kindly if you just become a member to buy a once off only from them!
  4. let us know how you go as I too have been on the same band wagon! I myself was thinking of buying a sterile dial and letting a dial refinisher print all the inscriptions! There is not much to do if done properly! I am not too fussed about it as no dealer has any complete replica for sale since the raid. Beggars can’t be choosers! Don’t know which would be more cost effective
  5. I have to agree with the earlier response that since the parts issue has become a huge problem, there has been very little happening in the replica world. I have a lot of unfinished projects that I took up prior to parts market drought. In particular with eta movement parts that are not only expensive but also hard to find. I have been in limbo as to whether to wait and see until something that I need comes along, or just dismantle everything and sell for parts myself. This is a difficult one for me as I am in different minds on different days. How much worse for those that have invested a lot more into this game than myself!!!!!! I too believe that the short supply parts issue has also been an agenda in the horology world, purely to stop repairs and in particular to destroy the replica market as nothing else has deterred people from buying replicas. Then there has been the big raids on the factories!!! Too much happening to say its just ' coincidence!!! Nobody is going to spend big $$$$ on a replica that may break down early in its stage and then there are no parts for maintenance. This is a good plan for the big brand company's to put a stop onto this hobby of ours and also so that genuine watch buyers buy new watches all the time. One watch repaired is one watch less sold!!!! What the big brands fail to see is that in a way the replica world is indirectly providing them free advertisement as replica buyers will always ponder on the fact that they may own the genuine product and I assume some already do!!! What puzzles me is that the same way we hobbyists have found this forum to share our like minded interests, so too can others that are not on our side. Who knows what spies the big brands are using to monitor what is happening out in the real world and also what we do and therefore plan ways to make it harder for us? Has anyone ever thought of this? It is sad to acknowledge, because this hobby has given me a lot of emotional and mental therapy when I have been at my worst and I have never done it for financial profit, just as I can assume with most of others here who have purely lost money to enjoy what keeps us ticking (excuse the pun). Money isn't everything, but the way the trend is going, it appears to be that Big watch brand companies are not interested in the satisfaction of their consumers but purely PROFITS, PROFITS & PROFITS!!!! Just my opinion only!!!!! BTW Welcome back Rolojack, this has been the best news so far!!!
  6. After nearly 12 years on this forum I feel like a noob with this sort of question. I am trying to buy a new PaneraiI with the crown locking lever /hatch (whatever it is) of decent quality for a family member that had been asking me for quite some time! Not really my cup of tea as I know nothing about them. Most of the dealers seem to only have the automatic one! Has anyone recently purchased a manual version (6497) with the see through back preferably on a rubber strap or leather? If so please let me know which recommended dealer here should I try to bother? thanks for any information
  7. I tried to order a watch through some of our trusted dealers whom I have dealt with in the past , who are also well aware of my contact details! Just about every model I asked about was sold out! I was then informed that there has been a raid on the factories and have been shut down! I was shell shocked!! Has anyone else heard about this?
  8. This is not an embarrassment at ALL by any stretch of the imagination!!!!!! I myself struggled in the early days with the amount of mainsprings that I have damaged because either I fed them in the wrong way or my fingers were not yet upto it. It is a skill which I took a long time to cope with at the cost of many mainsprings. They can be tricky to orientate which is where I think most of the problem with installation comes from. That is why there is also special tool made for installing them in. In fact, according to this professional watchmaker on the watch repair channel, he does not encourage it either!!!!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KcI3X7oovbc After I had acquired a way of installing one in by hand, I got worse when arthritis hit me and in your case having Carpel Tunnel can totally cripple your hand dexterity at many levels of watch repair and not just with mainspring installation!!!! I usually take strong painkillers for my fingers if I need to install one in by hand as I know that as soon as I get to the end, my fingers will give way!!!! Thank you for sharing with us your story and NO we are far too broad minded group of people here to be judgmental of this!!!! You are with the elite of elite when it comes to our interests!!!! Good Luck!!!
  9. if you have a premade template from a soft solid object when you press in the dummy dial, the holes will be a carbon copy of when you position in your new dial feet for the intended dial to sit on orthogonal to the plane of the dial! This way you will get to press it down firmly and get it dead straight! Machining a shallow indent under your dial helps a lot but must also be flush otherwise you will experience the resulting feet to be offline! there should be no issues with the dial spacer as everything would then be level and straight
  10. Can I suggest!! I have had my pain and grief with this very problem for some 15 years!!!! Different permutations and combinations of trials were ok until fatigue settled in on upon the dial with the many times of setting the time in pulling out the stem. I found that the best remedy that worked for me was to epoxy (strongest possible epoxy you can find) dial feet with a broader bases. This will minimize your shearing forces upon the dial lateral movement when setting the time in addition to a good case ring and tightly fastened screws. Ok, all seems easy but you may need to find a soft object where you can press in a dud dial with feet still on the back for the dial positioning to be pressed into. I bought a florists sponge and pressed in the dummy dial with some dabbled ink on the bottom of the dial feet, marking out the positioning of the dial feet. I also marked the position of the center of the stem with a fine pen for better centering. While leaving the dial still in place I poked a round tooth pick into the center of the dial opening for the hour wheel and positioned another tightly into the date window, giving an accurate stencil of where to position the new dial without feet. I then gently pulled off the dial keeping the toothpicks still in place and firmly pushed them in further to avoid any lateral movement, keeping them perfectly orthogonal to the sponge. Repositioning the dummy dial for a final check may help. I then positioned the new dial feet in the marked positions with their bases facing up and dabbed some 50kg strength epoxy on them,. I then gently placed the new dial with cropped dial feet (also nicely clean sanded back ) onto the sponge base while slowly feeding it through the toothpicks and then pressed down making sure it lined up with the stem centre marked with the fine pen. Left it for some 40 hours and it was dead straight centered. Catch is ; You need the right brass feet with wider bases. I bought mine from Walter (Carbinet) on ebay some years ago and they were the only ones that worked. The Bergeon dial feet bases that are too thin and will not work as well!!!!! You may also need to sand the base down so that it is as flush with the dial back as possible. You may also need to sand down the tips a bit to tailor them for the movement hole to clamp the movement clamps. You will find that you may also have to mark out on the back of the new dial where to make a small recess with a broches to accommodate the new bases of the dial feet you are going to epoxy . Most importantly. DO NOT RUSH !!!! BE Patient!!!!! it sounds long winded but the dial came out as strong as new!!!!! I have removed it from my movement several times when doing repairs to the movement and servicing and feet are still holding. Forget your dial dots and double sided tape. Good for Quartz throw aways but not for something that has the type of tension as these sturdy replicas!!!! Lastly, Good LUCK!!!!!
  11. Thanks guys!!! Very inspiring to read your input!!! I do agree that it is expensive junk, but that is the law of demand and supply!!! With marketing, if you cannot sell, then try to sell by raising the prices and restrict supply at the same time, then we all rush to the sales before they keep rising!!! Common psychological reaction!!! Anachronistic ? Yes, that too!!! it is an incurable disease I have!!! Keeps this Swiss industry afloat!!!
  12. Got out my eta 2824-2 for a total disassembly until I dropped my escape wheel on the floor somewhere in the abyss! By the time I found it, it was crushed by someone in the household as it must have been stepped on , possibly even me?😒 now these are near impossible to replace as the parts policy we all know! Don’t want to buy generic as I agree with Automatico that when you mix generics with genuine you can get more problems! Been there and done that! for those of you with more experience, if I were to get lucky and find a genuine one for sale, am I out of trouble or do I also need to buy a matching pallet for it as the stones may be slightly off or not work at all? 🙄
  13. Looking at the data of the movement , the stem height centre is 0.25 mm off the stem height of the 2738, so I would be reluctant to buy this movement unless you already have one to try out ! As for the thickness of the movement itself , it seems to be within the range of one that will not rub against the inside of case back! If you have a dud dial with no feet, try to set it onto your movement and try out the hands first to see if there is any clearance between them so you know that the posts are long enough to accept them! Take into consideration that your DWO will play a part to this verdict! If this step is successful, I would insert the stem without the crown and try to position it in the case to see if the stem is centred in the case opening! If so, then bingo you are on a roll! I always kept away from the 28xx pain in the a$5 series for these builds but this one seems to be an earlier version so you might be lucky! Good luck !
  14. you mean the eta 2789? this is the same movement as the 2783 but with the addition of the day wheel which is what I originally tried because of the extra height of the hour wheel, minute and seconds post! Upon initial planning and brainstorm assembly with a dummy dial, I noticed that the rotor was rubbing the case back! I was thinking of sanding it down to resolve this problem but the play in the jewel would always rub against the inside of case back! My research at the time from records was that it was 0.15mm thicker than the original Rolex movement that came with the watch! How do I remember? Because I still have my notes from when i attempted the build in case I were to build another but then discovered the world of replicas! I did not have a problem using the 2783. I just had to play around with the date wheel which I sanded down to adhere the right date wheel ( from a far wreck) for the right window of the dial, it was so long ago but somehow the for caliber datewheel saved the day as it just missed the date window of the dial! keep away from the 2824-2! It will give you problems! Also it would not look right for this vintage of watch and will be a dead give away that it is a replica It is not just the stem alignment isssue but also the spacer between the DWO and the seconds wheel will not give you enough latitude for the hands! Maybe someone more cleverer than me can suggest what I may have done wrong but it did not work! Good luck!
  15. Long before I discovered this forum or the replica world of watches, I made my own replica or Franken as they are known here using this very same model. I recall purchasing a case kit with a nice navy blue dial from Andy Tolley ( aka timeman) back in August 2002 and also a bracelet for just under $AUS365. He had lots of great deals in both watches and parts!!! Miss him so much!!!!!! I had both eta 2824-2 and the eta 2783, but opted for the 2783 as it was a 21000 beat as opposed to the 28000 beat in the 2824-2, which closely mimicked the 1575 genuine. The construction was very simple using the 2783 as the stem was in perfect position with the aperture of the case opening whereas with the 2824-2 movement involved a lot of messing around with spacers and getting the positioning right and the hand positioning. It was also a higher beating movement that would have given away that something was not right to the trained eye and to me. The ebauche of the 2783 had a lot more meat on it for me to position the original dial feet of the dial to preserve the dial feet in the event I ever did come across a genuine Rolex module for me to assemble a genuine rolex watch! I positioned the dial exactly on the movement and marked out where the dial feet were to be pressed in. I had a jeweller to drill holes in those exact locations for the dial to be friction fitted without having to use dial dots, glue or any other temporary solution. I recall getting a datewheel from an old FHF movement which I do not recall the caliber and sanded it down enough to lower the thickness for it to be glued onto the 2783 datewheel (for which I did the same to bring down the thickness of it also, so that it would not stick up too high.) I actually got the datewheel ia hair thinner so it would not interefere with the dial upon flicking at midnight.. FYI the dial feet from the 2824-2 are slightly different in position from the 2783 which even my watchmaker was unaware of. There was no need for any case ring or any other adjustments because it was an almost perfect fit with just case clamps. I was so proud of it that it was indistinguishable from the real McCoy unlike some of the best replicas that always have a flaw that give them away to those with a trained eye for these knit picks. I wore it for 3 years without a problem and it gave me a lot of pleasure, until I foolishly sold it for a genuine Tudor that I also no longer have. The guy I sold it to who is a real estate salesman, still wears it today , accompanied with a nice late model Porsche and is often seen wearing suits that are worth far more then my ex watch. My opinion and my opinion only, is the 2783 is a better and more robust module that the next generation 2824-2 as it has never been cloned. Also you can find lots of them for a song and plenty of spares from most unknown watches ranging from Tudor to Bentley and non name brands such as Felicia and vintage Tesco timepieces.
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