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sneed12

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sneed12 last won the day on August 28 2014

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About sneed12

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  1. A couple of months ago I ordered myself a Damasko DC82 as a promotion gift to myself: It's one of the few mechanical center minutes chronographs available today. I had it fitted with orange chrono hands and an 1-11 hours bezel instead of countdown minutes. I'm very happy with it, but life's funny and I got fired less than 3 weeks after I got promoted (not fired-fired but "it's time for you to find a new firm, let's figure out a transition plan" fired). Just signed an the offer for the next job today, and have this coming in I've been on a bit of a Seiko kick lately, have bought 3 in the last 3 weeks. Unemployment is clearly something I'm not very good at
  2. The CHS ETA movements are hit or miss, but to be fair I've had decent luck with them -- I have one that's been running for 7+ years. It's just luck of the draw. Now that the SH3186 clone is out, I expect the CHS ETAs to basically disappear. https://puretimewatch.io/featured-products/gmt-master-ii-116710-ln-black-ceramic-904l-steel-arf-1-1-best-edition-sh3186-chs.html
  3. That's exactly what I'm saying -- a broken 3186 will typically "get stuck", not "slip". The construction is different, so the failure mode is different. OK, I saw your sales thread. If you bought the watch that's in the included trusty time link, it's a CHS modified ETA. It's NOT a clone 3186. You can swap in the ICHS ETA 2836. Dial will fit. 2 of the 4 hands will fit, the other two need to be swapped (but buying an entire handset is simpler obviously).
  4. I have a several spares in the parts box left over from builds. I can't guarantee it will fit, but you can have for free plus cost of shipping.
  5. I'm not sure what you mean by "it should be the clone". If it's the SH3186 (which I don't believe was available in November) then I'd do a movement swap and ask the dealer for a credit or to send the movement or whatever. Movements are available on ebay for $200. But I doubt it was the SH3186 clone. That failure doesn't sound right, those movements can't really "slip" -- if it broke it should jam the hour hand up. Can you post some pics?
  6. 1) If by "small hand" you mean the local hour hand, that is a common failure mode of the CHS-modified ETA movements. 2) I've had mixed success fixing them; I currently have a 16570 build (https://rwg.cc/topic/195213-birth-year-16750-build/) with a CHS ETA movement that's ~7 years old and running well. I removed the jumping hour hand adjustment feature years ago, however. The extra drag on the movement doesn't help, and it's not correct to gen function anyway. 3) Speaking of gen function, there's now a clone of the gen movement (SH3186) so these CHS ETA movements are pretty much going to go away. I got the ARF as soon as it came out and it's fantastic. 4) Your options for your current watch are, try to fix the CHS movement or convert to ICHS. Conversion is straightforward, and all you need are movement + hands. Movement will cost ~$100-150, hands ~$25-50, it's a pretty simple swap.
  7. I don't recall the exact year, but the 42mm 5th gen Planet Ocean rep (of the 2500 series Omega) came out ten-ish years ago.
  8. Part number is 086 ST 0115 If that's a 5th gen 42mm PO (and it looks like it is) the gen part will fit
  9. How are you thinking you will shave the rehaut? From the front of the case? I'm struggling to understand how you will achieve a shallower rehaut depth while maintaining the overall geometry of the case. Feels like shaving the front will just lower the crystal a bit; milling the inside will throw off the stem height.
  10. Posted on the other forum, but figured I'd share here also. <February> So years ago I built a 16710 with an ETA CHS movement: https://www.repgeek.com/rolex/172833-chs-noob-gen-bezel-construction-16710-gmt.html I wore it for years, and liked it, but eventually for some reason I cannot remember I parted it out and used most of the parts for another build. Ended up with the movement sitting in a parts drawer. I've also, over the years, built 1675s on cartel cases: https://www.repgeek.com/rolex/178000-cartel-1675-converted-low-beat.html https://www.repgeek.com/rolex/205489-1675-el-cornino-build.html Again, for whatever reason I've ended up selling these on. So I haven't had a Pepsi bezel watch in my collection for a couple of years. I got to thinking a few years ago that it would be fun to make a "birth year" watch -- a Rolex rep that could have been produced in the year I was born. After some thought I decided to do a 16750 build. The 16750 case is identical to the late 1675s, but the movement is a high-beat CHS GMT movement (in other words, the hour hand is on the bottom and GMT hand sits above it in the stack, like the 3185). It does not have jumping hour hand but does have quickset date. Since the ETA based CHS movement I had lying around matches that functionality, I thought that would be a good fit. I also wanted a matte dial, so I ordered a cartel rep 1675 (same base I used for my last two 1675 builds). But this time around, I decided I wasn't satisfied with the 1680-based case. I decided to use just the dial for this build. I had no idea where I was going to source an acceptable case, so I ended up with yet another box of parts sitting in a drawer for years pretending to be a watch build project. Fast forward to this year, I start seeing yodog builds featured in the forum (I've not been active much lately, so maybe this is old news, but these cases weren't available back in 2012 when I was doind a lot more modding). I reach out to yodog and he graciously offers to source a case for me. Finally I'm in position to do this build. What I'm after is a watch that could hypothetically have been sold by Rolex in 1981 when I was born -- not that it necessarily was a configuration available from the factory, but that these were gen parts in production at the time. So I'm going to use a 1675 case which, other than engravings, should be identical to the correct 16750 case I'm after. Using Clark's 1675 bezel assembly since yodog only provided midcase, caseback, and crown. Matte dial. I've always liked silver open 6/9 datewheels, so using a polexpete DWO. I start with his case: It looks great, and it has the slim profile and short rehaut that the cartel case can never get right. Some tool marks (and he said he cleaned it up a bit already) that I'll clean up later, I'm anxious to put this together and see how it looks. I dig the old movement out of a drawer and make sure it's still running right (which, PS, this one has been running like a champ for 7+ years now) Pull the cartel dial and test fit into the case. Well, it doesn't fit. Too big. Needs to be reduced in diameter in order to fit the case correctly. So, I set up my poor man's watch lathe aka Dremel: I slowly rotate the dial and file down the edge until it sits in the case properly. Interestingly, I actually think it looks better with a smaller dial opening, in the cartel case the dial opening went beyond the minute markings and made the dial look too small for the case (look at one of my old 1675 threads). Here it looks like it fits properly. Once the dial is the right size, I reinstall on the movement, put the hands back on, and fit into the case. Fits like a glove and the stem height is, miraculously, almost perfect. As long as I've got my lathe set up, let me give a light polish to the bezel ring (they come from Gary bead-blasted) and put it all together. Was not sure what to do about a bracelet, so first tried a Speedbird NATO which I quite liked but decided I ultimately wanted a bracelet. Dug up a rep rivet that fits ok And a shot in its natural environment today, on an airplane <October> Updated with Yuki dial and a rep 93150, 580 endlinks and a GMT/explorer fliplock clasp (i.e., without diver's extension). Ended up sacrificing some no-name ETA dial to use as the dial feet / spacer / plate for the Yuki dial, since obviously the feet didn't fit. I bored out the center hole to make room for the hour hand wheel and drilled out the date window. Bit of a bonus was that the hour hand wheel sits a little higher than the date disc + overlay, so I was able to keep everything nice and tight under the dial. Clipped the Yuki dial feet and used glue to attach, the whole thing is bombproof now. Check out that beautiful open 6 I just swapped on a T-38, will post up some pics maybe tomorrow.
  11. Let me know what you find, I've been looking for 5 years
  12. Nope. Other than the fact that there's less empty dial real estate, there's no reason why they'd be any different. You can put a date window at 6 o'clock on an ETA 7750 with no modifications at all, it just ends up in the hours totalizer subdial. You can put one at 4:30. You can put one at 9 if you want to, although it would be stupid looking and the running seconds would run over the window for ~20 seconds out of every minute. No mods to the movement are required.
  13. The only "modification" generally required for date at 6 is to print the numbers in a different orientation, and cut the date window into the dial in a different place. The date disc is a circle, it's there under the dial already. 99.9% of movements that come in variants with date at 3, 4:30, 6, 9, whatever are identical except for the printing on the date disc.
  14. If you are looking at the refinished 16750 dial on ebay right now, it means "garbage"...
  15. I was also born in 1981, and I started thinking about this a few weeks ago -- I think I'm going to go 16750. http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh568/devildog267/16750-2_zpszaoyqgo6.jpg http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh568/devildog267/16750-1_zpsskia9dbe.jpg Best of all worlds in some ways, I can use the open 6 datewheel, I can use a CHS ETA movement without having to drop $1k on building another 3185, and I get the lovely acrylic crystal. I'm thinking cartel 1655 explorer case. Still haven't found a source for a dial unfortunately.
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