sneed12

 I believe mate that the Asian 2813 is a copy of the eta 2824

No

 therefore a slowbeat movement.

The 2824 is not a slow beat movement, it beats at 28,800.

The two movements are not related to each other. Not in the slightest.

 I always have trouble sourcing the parts, I wish watch parts were readily available the way computer components are. 

They are, for legal watches. Not so much for counterfeits.

Honestly, doesn't sound like the keyless to me. It sounds like a couple of missing or damaged teeth on the ratchet wheel. The teeth on the castle wheel all mate at once, so even if one was damaged it shouldn't be a "once per revolution" problem, it should either slip or not slip.

Where are these listed...?

I realize this is an older thread but these are available and they're very good

If you don't frequent the AP forum you don't know this, but BigCrown just crashed and burned on his second project; I think he lost over $1k and also failed to deliver to a bunch of people. I don't think there are going to be any more BigCrown crystals.

I thought the blue on the AR was quite bad, to be honest.

I would like to know too, and also the list of reps that accept a gen crystal.

I tried compiling one once, too many variations to list.

I never said anything about getting a SWISS ETA from a dealer. I am simply suggesting that anyone who has the option of going with swiss vs. asian should just go ahead with swiss.

The only time you have an "option" of going "swiss vs. asian" is when ordering a watch from a dealer.

The factory may sell you a fairly new Sellita or (rare nowadays) ETA movement. They may sell you a very old Swiss movement out of an Enicar from the 70s that probably hasn't been serviced in two decades. They may sell you a clone anyway and tell you it's Swiss.

 I would say its very poor advice to tell someone that can afford the alternate to go asian as we all know the swiss ETA is a much better movement.

Not at all better. A good clone is pretty much identical to a Swiss movement. The trick is getting a good one.

What you pay for (and get, with a factory-sealed Swiss movement) is much, much better QC, proper lubrication, and that's about it. Virtually any part from a clone ETA will swap to a Swiss ETA with minimal problems.

 if they can not afford the difference then asian is a good alternate 

If you really want Swiss, buy the Asian clone and swap in a factory-fresh Swiss movement yourself. That's the only way to know what you're getting. Otherwise, ordering Swiss from a dealer is often just a waste of money.

Great advise matt! Also go swiss ETA if its within your budget! 

Less great advice--Swiss ETA from a dealer is rarely worth it.

If anyone needs a spare date flipper wheel for a 2836, I think I have a couple.

I'm using a Clark's crystal.

I emailed Gary asking for a discount on shipping for three more since I keep breaking these damn things and he is sending me two for free. Very generous of him.

DW = David Wong, a guy who sells watches and cases, his 6263/6265 offerings are the best bang for the buck IMO (not as good as Phong but 1/3 the price)

WatchNY = WatchNY, he's an ebay seller who makes a pretty nice 6263 bezel (better than the DW offering, IMO)

It's the WatchNY bezel, not the DW bezel, and it seems to press over the crystal just fine if it's not installed on the case...? I'd much rather grind on a $5 crystal than a $200 aftermarket bezel, so I hope it's not absolutely necessary to shave it

I've broken two trying to fit these damn things. I know that the inner lip needs to be sanded; am I missing anything else? I did this before a year or two ago and didn't have any problems (this was a different watch, same case).

I can get the crystal to fit but it cracks when I install the bezel over it.

I think Chiman once installed a gen insert on one of these puppies. I could be wrong but I was very tempted when I saw it up for sale.

He definitely did, and I think Concepta did as well. But it was definitely just the insert only, not the entire bezel assembly.

thanks for the additional photos. Too bad all those rep builders that tout their 1:1, Just like a genuine watch, copied directly from a genuine watch ,etc,etc. really are just spouting sales pitches for the most part.

Yeah, the first thing I discovered about this case is that the ID of the crystal retaining ring is larger than a gen--the gen gasket and crystal don't work with the rep bezel assembly (but would with a gen assembly)

Sneed Give me a PM back please about your watch? thanks

Responded to both of your PMs yesterday...

EDITED TO ADD: Ah, I see you sent some more. replied.

 So now my question is how many different bezel setups have there been on the GMTIIC?

I personally have seen at least 3. Can't answer for sure how many but I'd be surprised if it was a lot more than that.

Another question, looking at the gen like construction of sneed12's case, there are no indentions around the edge of the case opening, so how does the click spring work with that case

The indentations are on the outside of the crystal retaining ring, I'll snap a pic when I get home I have it apart right now anyway.

EDITED TO ADD PICS

If you move the movement back, you have to change everything to make it look right. All the hands need to be extended, datewheel needs to be moved forward etc.

Here is a photo of a gen bezel assembly and all it's parts. Saw this one over on VRF the other day

Yeah, it's been there a couple of months. Good price but I don't like to buy from Europe.

Correct hand stack is a waste of time.

Meh--I've owned plenty of ICHS reps and been fine with them, but CHS is nice to have and is surprisingly noticeable.

CHS and superlumed with gen crystal, so a gen bezel assembly would finish it right up

Good, Because you are going to get to do your first one  . the gen bezel/insert, spring, the whole works are on the way to me right now!!

That case will not take a gen bezel assembly. It's not gen-style construction, it has the paper-clip wire style bezel that clips into the rehaut. It may take the gen insert.

If it doesn't work, I have a case that has gen style construction that will take those parts.

Mind if I ask how much you paid?

Long stem is a good guess and an easy thing to try and fix first.

YEARS LATER....

 

I am still doing this project. 

That's awesome.

and of all the crazy... an Omega 2500C co-axial escapement movement. This is essentially a 2892 as I understand it.

 

Alternately:

Sell the Omega movement to an omega rep builder and get a 2836 or other and finish the build.

 

Why did I buy the Omega? Because I missed out the 2x times I came across a 1570 that was close to my budget. The co-axial seemed technically intriguing.

Get a 1570. No point in using a 2500c in this case (and yes, it's very closely related to--but not the same as--an ETA 2892). There's one in the sales section right now in fact.

Save (or sell) the 2500c for a built that needs it, like a display back aqua terra.

I'll be surprised if Rolex DOes not go after this company.....too close, but then again I'm not a lawyer.

Why would they go after this company, and not these?

Yes. There is a thread here somewhere that contains a short video I made showing how the GMT function on my rep works (you can probably search it out), but, due to its finicky movement, it is best not use the GMT function.

Interesting. The new CHS movements don't do that, but on the other hand they seem much more robust.

Yes. It works exactly like the gen GMTIIC.

"Exactly"? 

So the hour hand goes in either direction and the date will jump in either direction when the hour hand crosses midnight?