m3amg

Did you get pics before the trade? I wouldn't even bother trying to refinish. Previous owner must have been a plumber who wore this watch to work

I'm in for a 201/a matching. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hear, hear Pete! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I only care about who makes the best watch and both factories have their greatest hits but i agree with Tanya that currently the v3 noob is hands the down the best version available. I'm using a v3 caseset and cg for my h factory 390. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Interesting and comedic to see the broad conclusions and stereotypes members here buy into just from seeing a modern Rolex on somebody. I guess that is how the Amish view people who drive actual automobiles and not the good old horse and buggy

Not passe for me and I still love it. My grail watch when I got it. I remember seeing the Pepsi dial GMT in the 70's and fell in love with the watch and had no idea what a Rolex watch was until I got much older. Then I learned about subs and got a 16610. Then I learned more and wanted a 1680. Now I want a 5513.

+ 1 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Unless this is a shill post I have no idea why you would buy from a place that is not a TD especially since they are using a gen photo from a known watch reseller (gemnation). Good luck getting anything and more luck getting anything that resemble a >200,000 USD PAM.

After you put the spring back on the push pin you can use purple loctite around the edge of the module and put it back in the hole. If the complete module has come apart I think you new a new complete module and use the loctite to secure it. This happened to a V1 312 I had. Had no problems with it afterwards.

Haha no worries cougar I made sure I did not move my wrist and no damage was incurred btw they are both 45.5mm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

PO 2500 from an AD and bought the 8500 off a friend.

Haha yes they are, great eye! I love them!

+1 And that would be on the low end especially if it still has its sharp edges. Paperwork such as service or original papers adds to the values. Unless the box is original to the watch you might be better off selling it separately D. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks guys. The dial is an MK 1 and the case still has all of its chamfers/bevels and the lug pin holes are still nice and flat so the case has either never been polished or very lightly if at all. Here are some macros.

Yes. The insert is a fat font that has faded to a nice blue-gray.

I don't post here much but wanted to start and since there has been a few 1680 threads recently I figured I put some pics of mine.

I would buy one or 2 depending on cost.

Better grab one now or wait for a used one. It is a limited edition run of 1948 to commerate the first yr the Seamaster was introduced. As with all new tech I'm sure this Liquid Metal technology will eventually find it's way to other regular production models. For now I heard these are or were only available thru Omega boutiques and not your regular AD's.