freddy333

Still dragging my Aryan 'Master around

Ditto Ssteel. Either the stem is broken, which will require a replacement (available from most watch parts houses) that matches the movement or it somehow was released from the movement, in which case you'll need to unscrew/depress the release to reinsert the stem.

Wearing my Aryan 'Master again today

Very nice.

A light coat of (non-permanent) silicone sealant applied between the case & xtal will seal it, & should last at least 10+ years.

Be wary of cheap, aftermarket Rolex case openers. Most have shallow/dull teeth, which may mar the teeth of your caseback, making it that much more difficult to remove with a proper tool (best not to ask me how I know). If you need a case tool for regular use, get a genuine or good Swiss-made tool. Otherwise, most watchmakers will r&r your caseback while you wait & often gratis.

Yes, but, as described in my Phase I construction threads, it will require significant modification of the ROLS176 case to fit the crystal & gen-style bezel. After being unavailable for so many years, I am very surprised to see that rep model available again. Silix must have received many requests for it. However, I chose it at a time when there were no 6542 reps available. Although I have not been following the offerings of rep makers in several years, there may be other/better options available. So, before starting on a '42 project, I would recommend that you check the offerings from the sellers who have sections on rwg to see if they have either accurate 6542 reps or other Rolex models that have a similarly dimensioned case that you can use as the foundation for your project.

(Phase II in center, Phase I on right - both fitted with JoeyB inserts) Ditto JoeyB's plastic inserts. There are none (other than a gen) better, but they are designed to fit a gen or gen-dimensioned bezel, so, unless it is made to gen spec, you would need to measure your rep/aftermarket bezel to be sure the insert fits. As others have said, '42 builds are complicated & expensive. The options really come down to spending thousands on a mixture of gen & gen-spec aftermarket parts, or heavily modifying a rep Sub or GMT case (these are generally made to fit ETA or ETA-clone movements, instead of gen Rolex movements) to mimic the '42. Several years ago, for my Phase 1 '42, I used a cheap Silix Sub as the basis for the build (I do not recall the exact rep model, but I believe it has been unavailable for several years - if you can locate the model in 1 of my Phase I construction threads, Silix may be able to locate a similar rep for you). It was selected because the basic case was close to the '42 in size/dimension, but the crystal & bezel mounting were different, which required a great deal of modification & input from other advanced members (you can search out the several threads on the subject for details). Whichever way you decide to go, be prepared for alot of headaches & budget excesses.

Whenever I begin to wonder if the world is turning upside-down, I just look at Nanuq's pics & I am sure.

I have a feeling Tony may soon receive a letter, of an official nature, from Rolex SA.

What, no mid-week wristies? Everyone asleep today? Wearing 1 of my Newmans

Some nice metal in today's wristies, gents. Still wearing my Mystery today

Great write up. Well done.

As most of the old timers learned years ago, there are few investments as safe as vintage Rolex. And with the creme de la creme chasing after the creme de la creme of vintage Rolex, it should come as a surprise to no one that vintage Rolex prices -- especially for those coveted mint pieces -- are stratospheric. After all, if they were within reach of average collectors, they would not be so highly sought after. All I know is that those of us who paid the ridiculous prices for our gens & frankengens did so at the right time.

Friday the 13th

Everything is possible if you have the time, skills & tools to re-construct the bridge, rotor & mainplate. But, realistically, I cannot see a way to do this. If there were a way, we would have been doing it for decades.

Robert - Nice Slytech! Is that new?

The week of Mystery continues -

Mystery today...

Markers on most aftermarket dials are barely attached as they are, so they are often very easy to remove, realign & reattach with a better adhesive/cement. Just be careful not to splash the adhesive onto the dial. If you do, your only option may be replacement.

I would transplant the coronet from the 1 on the left to the 1 on the right. Then, you are on the right track.