deepsea

How much are they then?

Unfortunately, it is a common practice now. The clone seagull movements. If you buy a watch within a price range of 250-300-350, than it is MOST LIKELY clone 2824 or clone 2836... Because the GEN ETA 2824 or 2836 are ~$150. Only for the movement...

Hello, I wonder something about 2006 Cousteau diver. I'm considering getting a Cousteau diver but only thing that bugs me from photos is the wood. Is there a real wood on the back of the watch? Or is it wood patterned paper or something like that?

Hey UncleJay, The educated replica collectors are only maybe %5 of the replica watch buyers. We are %5 that know about watches and complain for quality controls. In this case, dealers doesn't want to give effort to make their %5 of the customers happy Although I'm still enjoying the watch talk, I nearly stopped buying new replicas for that reason last year. I only got 1 this year. I doubt when I'll get another one... Because whatever watch comes, comes with some unexpected problems. Dust under the crystal, scratch on the dial, misaligned hands, damaged luminova, loose screw, loose movement engraving, etc etc etc etc...

Absolutely... I'm down to 3 including a gen 113. (and modded 127 and 249) I don't want to plan to own any more Panerais in the future... (maybe if they make an upgraded la bomba (64 or 87), I might be keen on that.) And Panerai has become like Rolex. The first question from someone is: "hey nice panerai, is it a fake?" I like more undiscovered models lately. Less known is always better

How does the crooked dial look? Any photos? I'm looking forward to buying this watch in the very near future, and it will be wise which part of the dial may come crooked. Photos will be much appriciated.

I'm about to pull the trigger tomorrow or monday. I was going to buy the double AR Inge but this watch took my attention, so bye bye Inge for now What do you think about this watch? Is it a timebomb due to the subdial configuration?

I've got 4 genuine watches. 1. 113 2. submariner 3. tag heuer monaco 4. iwc pocket watch Ironically, I usually DON'T wear them. Because with submariner, everyone is asking "is it a replica?" , I don't like heuer square style... 113, I sometimes put this on, put prefer my black replicas 2,3 and 4 passed down from my grandfather in 2005. So even I don't wear them, I won't sell any of them.

Give me a break guys. Dear The Zigmeister, I quoted your OWN warning, that is not a warning I created... So if you didn't think re-lume leaves imperfections, why did you use that warning anyway? And on the other hand, this is my opinion, re-luming adds imperfections. This is NOT about the artist. Some may not even see those kind of small imperfections... (Let me give an example: there is an old guy in my gym who has a gen pvd 9A, we befriended, while drinking something after training, We handed our watches each other... There was a deformation on the T SWISS T writing on his 9A, very visible deformation.... the part "SS T" is completely deformed, I told that guy about it, he said "WOW you are right, but I own that watch for years and I never saw that, I must be blind") Again... I'm NOT blaming The Zigmeister or any other modders, I'M sure The Zigmeister is a master in watchsmith art, but I'm just stating a point of view about the re-luming PROCESS ITSELF, not about modders or watchsmiths themselves... This is a point of view... For example, a huge ding on the case.... One may think it is personality, other may think it is imperfection... There is no problem if you are happy with your ding on your watch... Nice of you... But please don't try to make everyone think of same. There may be someone who thinks it is an imperfection. For me, it is an illusion... The same illusion makes some awful straps (which also doesn't have any collectional value) being sold over $250-300 on gen forums You know, an awful strap with poor stitching and lots of imperfections, holes, damages on it... But it is made from an ammo pouch(!), it is done by hand(!) so it is very valuable, costs more than $250... A local leathersmith can make same strap for $5 in 10 minutes... Don't get me wrong, this is open market, if buyer is happy there is no problem for me. But these are my opinions... There is no need to argue, everyone may have different opinions on the same subject.

I may sound weird to you but... I never re-lume my watches (except for sandwich dials) Why is lume important for you? Do you live in dark conditions and need to read the watch under lack of light? What will you do if you own a gen. tritium panerai? OK, if a watch comes machine-superlumed out of box. It is good... But re-luming a watch ruins it in a way... Leaves unavoidable imperfections on dial/hands due to hand-work. There was a warning on The Zigmeister's price list like this: "you'll have to accept variation difference in lume on dial and hands because I do it by hand, not a machine" My watch can go 3 minutes ahead per day, that's not good but that is not a very big problem for me... Because usually I don't wear same watch for days... But I cannot live with imperfections on the dial, those are bugging my eyes all the time my .02

wow that monster looks trashed... but let's see a photo without flash if possible. I think there will be a huge difference.

WOW some heavy metal there

UPO -> + slightly better built - huge watch. if you don't have especially big wrists. you may not like it. SMP -> + goes well with any kind of clothing. - less accurate than upo For me, Both are MUST-HAVE But anyway, if you don't have problem with oversized watches, I'd go with UPO first.

What will you do with this kind of watch? It is cute but useless... I've inspected it in my hands and it feels barely bigger than 47mm... So it is too small to be a desk clock. BTW, case back is with screws. Like AP Roo.

WOW very nice, wear it in good health. but, is half of the T SWISS MADE T behind the inner bezel? if so, why? because of dial? or are my eyes playing tricks with me?