2671

Looks like a 7750 spacing, $200 is considered generous with ST19 movement, not 7750, my 2 cents.

Amazing build, thanks! I am on the fence for one...

I didn't wrap up the deal when was told they are upside down. Two makers in GZ for 6263, both run by ST19s, one with working totalizer @ 6 while the other's non. But they both source the same band from this new maker with wrong 571...

Yes, it's a dummy. Cartel ST19 6263 has the hour totalizer wheel glued onto the top plate.

The problem with recent batch of this cartel 6263, they all have upside down 571 stamps on endlink pieces. Unless Angus has some old stock that you may wanna have him check.

Thanks alligoat, I've talked to the person whom are related to the 2 families that make these, factory of origin to be the same : ( I guess the only way is to pay Phong $25/piece and live with his widespreaded 571 stamp. Wonder if any fellow members have the old cartel endpieces with proper markings to sell... I'd better off run a WTB in the sale section. Happy Holidays!

As titled, where can I purchase those with correct 571 stamps. There used-to-be-correct cartel ST19 are no longer legit. I've ordered 2 last week and they all came in with 571 stamped the wrong direction! New batch 571 stamps are facing toward watch head instead of band. I had my connection in GZ contacted the maker, she was told they are all like that in this new batch! Do not wanna dish out $400 for a gen, so what is my next best bet? 6263 gurus please chime in, thanks. Happy Holidays!

Here's mine, look at the awkward spacing 160 14 compares to yours 1 60 14, you have a much better round "0" than my pointed one. The 1 and 6 on mine look unbelievably sharp and straight. In reality the incision is shiny and clean. Mine has 5.6 mil serial dates it back to 1978 matches Registered Design, see Stainless Steel is right justified between lugs. So, my attention will be how sharp and clean the engraving is carried out technically rather than the neatness of the individual font or spacing is. That's a great idea to do the last 4 or 5 digits for some special memory or meaning unless you could find a gen to replicate everything from dial, bezel down to movement, including the vintage busted look if it is... Blown up pics again:

Nice made over V72! From the way you have it set up: the engraved train wheel bridge renders a pre-80s model. The "Registered Design" incision and an early 6 mil serial would be safe. I too am in doubt regarding the random last 4 or 5 digit, so gurus chime in please... I wouldn't worry too much about the alignment of letters but the laser sharpness (not laser engraving) and clean incisions is what very difficult to replicate. I have older DJ cases with both crooked and neat squary engravings from different eras, some are even left or right justified between lugs but they all have one thing in common, super sharp, narrow and clean incisions. We are on the same boat pursuing the best engraver to do the same thing, I have 3 cases from the same eBay seller, group buy? LOL I may have a Viet bezel for you, PM me for details.

Yes, there were a bunch of re-sellers back then, all marketing high quality Taiwan made 18K DD cases in different trims, even the hallmarks could be stamped with the earlier queen head style inside the case back, too bad they were suddenly disappeared after 2007...

Is the HK dealer you've been dealing with in Sham Shui Po, Kowloon?

Superb as always, keep up! Sent you a PM regarding this

@ rolojack Got it, thanks.

From what I have read, the 3 and 9 subdials are spot on while the one at 6 is faux but sits too low on ST19/Venus 175, a simple mod that brings it up then V72/gen dial would fit. I am not sure about dial feet location...

Fantastic build! Is it necessary to mod (clip and relocate) dial feet on V72 based dial to fit this movement? Thanks.

Rep is just watch head by itself, gen is with band.

This particular 3836 23J movement has a faux timer hand and running second hand at 6, means the minute hand will never get to hit the sapphire crystal. In other words, clearance is not a problem. It's also impossible to swap in a 7750 due to case thickness and crown stem height.

Try these: 1) Fully wind the watch to see if it works; 2) Adjust the time to pass where it stopped, to see if it runs; 3) If it does, then set it at 5 mins BEFORE that time it stops, it could be the hour hand interfering w/the running sec hand at six. If that's the case, it's an easy fix (adjust both hands so they don't touch each other) any watchsmith in town can do it. If it doesn't work, send it back to the TD you bought it from.

@sacsah1 Relumed, no? Great job!

I have one needed a stem, gen or Yuki won't fit...

Back to your question OP, sorry for veering off topic Take into consideration that Noob Sub with SA3135 utilizes better parts (in the watch, not movement) than A2836 version, i.e. case construction, bezel ring, the band etc... Purchase the SA then replace the movement with an Asian or Swiss ETA 2824 may also be a good idea for DIYers, recoup the money by selling the SA in the trading section, it may end up as a wash. That way, gen ETA smokes the SA thousand miles away in terms of reliability.

Thanks for the info on the Asian and Gen ETAs. Rule of thumb, gen is always better than reps! I had a couple of Day-Date 18238 frankens built in late 90's, I was able to source the Mido version 2846 at 36000 bph, for super smooth sweeping motion though wrong, but it still runs like a champ! One may consider the Yuki 3135 over SA 3135 at a premium, then part source is unlimited since gen parts will fit with added reliability and value.

Thanks Rolojack. Yes you are right, they are gen constructed screws, 2 O-rings on each, coming from inside out, threaded tip into spring loaded pushers.

+1 @Rolexia Not worth the premium. As we speak, there's still NO parts readily available for SA3135 regardless version, no one knows who makes it. Everybody knows crown stem is fatal. Parts are of poor quality + NO gen parts will fit except superficial parts like DW and hands. The pro is, with this movement you have a true to gen crown height + gen mounting style without movement spacer. vs the ETA. Rep 2836 or 2824s are much more robust built, desk of parts everywhere, gen or rep they both fit! Anybody can service and work on them. They are workhouses, period. But you have to live with the low crown height on 2836 in Rollie applications while the 2824 sits higher and is visually correct to gen.

Few requests for the mods, so I figured to take better shots for you all. I had all the subdial related levers/rods removed this time for an even cleaner look. Instead of epoxy gluing the wheels to the main bridge, I had it glued to the top thin metal plate. They come right off with the top plate when next service is due. Here ya go: