Datlore001

The 2893 is thinner than the Omega 1128. It looks like about a millimeter. The dial feet stick through the holes and actually block the rotor from turning. Maybe clipping the dial feet some would allow it to work, but I didn't want to destroy either of my dials. If you could get it on and secured, it might work. I couldn't verify whether the stem height was the same. The other issue on my 2893 was the cannon pinion was too low. Couldn't have attached the GMT hand if I wanted to. So, while a 2893 MIGHT work - it is not a drop-in replacement for the 1128.

Beautiful piece! What's the movement? 2836? I will most likely never find another steal like this one; I think I used up all my luck with it.

The hack lever is cheap enough, but I don't know if I'm up for that part. I'll probably just stick with it as is and when it's time for a service, have them install one.

No real sharks involved in this one. Instead, a couple of weeks ago I was browsing Ebay and just happened to catch an "as-is" genuine Seamaster GMT Great White for $450 shipped. It was the full watch with box, books, cards, etc. The seller was offering it as-is because the stem had broken off. The ad stated that, fortunately, the movement's auto-wind mechanism still worked, so I knew the movement was probably ok. The pictures provided me enough detail to figure out that the watch was gen, and knowing that the case alone was worth more than the asking price even if I couldn't get it going, I pulled the trigger. An anxious week-and-a-half later, I had it in my hands. First thing I did was pull the movement. I discovered that the stem had broken in two places: Just outside the crown, and a section that went through the winding and sliding pinions. After discovering there was a bit broken inside the keyless works, I thought it might be out of my hands. I was not excited about forking over a couple hundred to my watchmaker, as I have to take my Bond in for a service soon, so Friday evening I worked up the nerve to get inside the watch - after figuring out that the new 2893 I had purchased to put in temporarily would not work. Pulled the hands and dial, and went to work on the keyless. Using ETA's step-by-step assembly and disassembly diagrams of the 2892A2, I managed to pull it off. Got the keyless back together, got everything back in shape, and after finally finding some time today to put the hands back on, I have a fully functioning watch. I have to go back in and cut the stem a bit, as I left it a tiny bit too long. Also, there was no hack lever installed - or maybe the hack lever is broken. In any event, the one oddity is that she doesn't hack anymore. But she's running like a champ, and I still can't believe that I only have $460 in this thing. My best Ebay find, by far. P.S. - I learned that the ETA 2893 is not interchangeable with the Omega 1128. Now I have a brand new 2893 sitting here.

That 2254.50 needs a PO seconds hands. Kidding, your collection is fantastic. Congratulations.

Interesting. I guess by the way you said "old" means that those aren't available. Josh has a couple listed with 2892s at 40mm. I wonder if those would work.

Anyone done with a 2892-based rep? I'd really like to build one, but not sure if any of the reps are close enough in dimensions to make it work.

There he is! It's undoubtedly my lack of experience. Part 2569 seems to be fine, as it will turn the wheel if screw 52595 is not fully screwed in. Of course, it will only turn a bit without jumping the v-spring of 2784. When it's all together and I turn the crown in date set, the corrector will just spin without turning the date wheel. It almost seems like either the date wheel I have is too thick or maybe 2595 is bent. Now that I'm trying to put it back together I can't find 2595 anyway, so I have to order a replacement. :-/ Thanks for the thoughts. I'll order another date wheel from another source to try as well. Edit: found part 2595. Reassembled, same behavior. Will try to upload pics later.

Hey guys, I have a 2836 that I got from Rolexman, fully serviced. It didn't come with a date disc, so I got a black disc to use for my Planet Ocean project. Before I realized it wasn't necessary, I removed parts 2595 and 2784. I replaced them and reinstalled the disc, but it won't change with the date quickset. I have limited abilities here, so I'm not sure if I might have simply messed up either 2595 or 2784 or if I'm missing something else. I really would like to get this going but don't want to pour money into this movement when I can get a new one for less than $100. Thanks for your help!

This is my dilemma... I want to build a white dial SMPC so I'll need to change for the stainless bezel. I'm really not excited about tearing apart a gen bezel just for the insert. :-(

Omega Seamaster Pro. Either the chrono or the classic diver. They clock in at 42mm, wearable and classic.

Been wanting to do a franken SMP Chrono, but want a stainless bezel instead of blue. If I can find a good deal, I'd just do the whole bezel swap. I seem to remember reading they would accept a gen bezel. Any ideas?

He has his own Trusted Dealer forum on repgeek and replica watch info.

As some of the hands off the Val/ETA 7750 are not compatible with the A7750, does anyone know a source for A7750, such as Daytona hands? Been searching and can't find much info.

How is the current version being sold by Josh with the 2824? Thinking of getting one to franken with a gen dial as my first Breitling rep.