mymanmatt

See below

I have been sick since thanksgiving. It has been one thing after another. Flu, covid (twice) in hospital, out of hospital. Leg wounds, blood clots circulation problems etc etc. had 9 doctors appts in one week. None of the doctors really sure what’s wrong. 😂😂😂😂😂. So, here it is 5th of April., and just like it  came on, it’s starting to go away . Very strange. I’m feeling better than before it all started. So, I’m not out of the game yet. I do have a couple of repairs that have Ben postponed that I need to complete before I take new work. If you are trying to repair yourself or have a repair shop that has questions, don’t hesitate to email or text me. I’ll help in anyway I can. 

To renmove a balance assy, it is best if it is stopped. To suddenly loose full power to the drive train, can possibly damage members of the drive train. If you release the main spring gently, it’s almost guaranteed you will not damage any parts. Good luck. N

Timing them is tricky. The brass piece on the bridge lever also adjust the speed. Turn right or left to find consistent speed in all positions. Then move that same lever in or out to speed it up or slow it down. Be sure your amplitude is sufficient before you do anything. It could take an hour or longer to time it. I assume you have a time graph and are not using kelo Good luck

Be sure the screws are tight in the balance bridge. 

No. Different case tubes. 

What movement does it have?

I do. 

Ck your cannon piñon. The third wheel turns it too. The third wheel is the most sensitive of all. Sometimes it looks like it’s in the train bridge but it’s not. If you can’t see the post in the bridge, it’s not in place, and will break every time. Good luck. 

It will turn freely when you spin it and then break when you add pressure from the mainspring. 

On 3/7/2022 at 11:05 PM, kernow said:

You’ve not been banned, there is a software issue. If you can access via Tapatalk then you’re account is working okay.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s working for me now. 

Fully branded case and dial by helenarou. There are plenty of detractors to his case out there, but I have had a gen, and have compared this to gen 1969 and 1970 models with same crown guard shape and lug hole spacing. Crown guards in this time were often shaped by hand and variations abound. These are spot on with several examples. The crown position is perfect. The bracelet is a Yuki 93150. I've recently aged the lume plots and plan to swap the bezel assembly with a Clarks or wso... Haven't yet decided.

Well done Boss!

Sounds great to have extra protection, especially these days!  

I can probably help, if your in the states. Lmk

The 3055 is a thick movement. I doubt seriously if the caseback would go on. If it did I think it would lock the rotor down. I’m pretty sure about this. 

The 3135 will fit. But if you want the same dial, Sogeha is correct, 2824 is what's in there now.

The gen hands are slightly shorter than the gen 16000. By slightly, I mean barely shorter. 

On 5/20/2021 at 4:55 AM, mymanmatt said:

The feet on the dj II dial are outside the movement. I cut 2 slots in the movement ring for the feet to sit in. The movement ring is attached to the movement with screws, and the ring is attached to the case with tabs and screws. 

I have used the 3135 yuki in several datejust cases made for a 2824.  The only issue I found, was the dial fitting in the groove under the rehaut. Some times the groove cut from the factory is a little to tight for the dial to seat flush with the bottom of the rehaut.  In each case, I opened the groove just slightly and the dial would sit flush under the rehaut. Then the stem would line up perfectly. Hope this helps.

Try removing the stem again. Be sure when you pull the stem to the time set position , that the set lever is all the way out in the yoke corrector. Then when you reinstall the stem that the set lever goes all the way in on the yoke corrector. I can’t imagine anything that would stop it, especially with the stop lever removed. Good luck

No, it’s there. With it dial down and the stem on your right the release button is slightly above the stem. Press it very gently. 

I think the 2824 escape wheel is different than the 2836 and 34. I agree with everyone, if it’s a gen eta, pallet should work great

Escape wheel must be steady. As you know, it spins quite freely with the pallet fork removed. The only time I’ve see an escape rock is because one of the staffs is broken, usually the one in the base plate, or I have changed the second or third wheel, and their the wrong one. Either could be to tall and not letting the train bridge seat properly. Then the escape wheel will wobble because it’s not fully in the jewel in the train bridge. Good luck. 

I have a black only. 

You are correct.