mymanmatt

Be sure the screws are tight in the balance bridge. 

No. Different case tubes. 

What movement does it have?

I do. 

Ck your cannon piñon. The third wheel turns it too. The third wheel is the most sensitive of all. Sometimes it looks like it’s in the train bridge but it’s not. If you can’t see the post in the bridge, it’s not in place, and will break every time. Good luck. 

It will turn freely when you spin it and then break when you add pressure from the mainspring. 

On 3/7/2022 at 11:05 PM, kernow said:

You’ve not been banned, there is a software issue. If you can access via Tapatalk then you’re account is working okay.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s working for me now. 

Fully branded case and dial by helenarou. There are plenty of detractors to his case out there, but I have had a gen, and have compared this to gen 1969 and 1970 models with same crown guard shape and lug hole spacing. Crown guards in this time were often shaped by hand and variations abound. These are spot on with several examples. The crown position is perfect. The bracelet is a Yuki 93150. I've recently aged the lume plots and plan to swap the bezel assembly with a Clarks or wso... Haven't yet decided.

Well done Boss!

Sounds great to have extra protection, especially these days!  

I can probably help, if your in the states. Lmk

The 3055 is a thick movement. I doubt seriously if the caseback would go on. If it did I think it would lock the rotor down. I’m pretty sure about this. 

The 3135 will fit. But if you want the same dial, Sogeha is correct, 2824 is what's in there now.

The gen hands are slightly shorter than the gen 16000. By slightly, I mean barely shorter. 

On 5/20/2021 at 4:55 AM, mymanmatt said:

The feet on the dj II dial are outside the movement. I cut 2 slots in the movement ring for the feet to sit in. The movement ring is attached to the movement with screws, and the ring is attached to the case with tabs and screws. 

I have used the 3135 yuki in several datejust cases made for a 2824.  The only issue I found, was the dial fitting in the groove under the rehaut. Some times the groove cut from the factory is a little to tight for the dial to seat flush with the bottom of the rehaut.  In each case, I opened the groove just slightly and the dial would sit flush under the rehaut. Then the stem would line up perfectly. Hope this helps.

Try removing the stem again. Be sure when you pull the stem to the time set position , that the set lever is all the way out in the yoke corrector. Then when you reinstall the stem that the set lever goes all the way in on the yoke corrector. I can’t imagine anything that would stop it, especially with the stop lever removed. Good luck

No, it’s there. With it dial down and the stem on your right the release button is slightly above the stem. Press it very gently. 

I think the 2824 escape wheel is different than the 2836 and 34. I agree with everyone, if it’s a gen eta, pallet should work great

Escape wheel must be steady. As you know, it spins quite freely with the pallet fork removed. The only time I’ve see an escape rock is because one of the staffs is broken, usually the one in the base plate, or I have changed the second or third wheel, and their the wrong one. Either could be to tall and not letting the train bridge seat properly. Then the escape wheel will wobble because it’s not fully in the jewel in the train bridge. Good luck. 

I have a black only. 

You are correct. 

No! Any time you polish electro gold plating, you loose some of the plating. Not so on the new gold watches that have the “hot plating” process. 

I got your text. Typically when using a pipan dial, the first thing to ck is the position of the stem in the case tube. Be sure it's centered. Mount the movement in the case the way it will be when you're finished. You can raise or lower the movement with movement ring. Once that's done you can work on the hand height. Typically the long post hands are shorter in length than the standard hands, You will probably need to change the cannon pinon. I'm sure you've seen references to an H4. eta also makes an H5 which is usually what you need for a 4 digit build. You will need to change the hour wheel, the minute wheel, and the second wheel. The hour and minute are easy to change as it's just a swap. The second hand is a little harder because you need to remove the train bridge. This is not difficult, but it is very sensitive to alignment when you reinstall it.  If you've never done it before it might be a good idea to take it to a watchsmith that is familiar with that process. If you want to try it, I'll help walk you through the process. Startime does not carry the H5 parts, but there is another popular supplier that does. Do you have the open 6 & 9 overlay? You need one for that build. Good luck and lmk if you have any questions.

Did you know that Gene Simmons from KISS got them started to fame. He did

Obey your instinct