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About neils

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    Gettin' to know the place...
  • Birthday 01/31/1969

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  1. They don't fit the SA3135. They may fit the SH3135 I'm led to believe but most of the watches I've had off Joshua are using the SA3135. I have genuine and generic 510 wheels from different suppliers including cousins. They do not fit.
  2. SA3135 is a proper clone NOT just a decorated 2836. I'm a reseller here in the UK have been for 15 years. I have only been supplying the Rolex models with this particular breed of movement (SA3135) since Christmas 2017. I estimate 20-30 of my customers now have this movement, I'm now seriously concerned as to the reliability of this area of the SA3135. I've had 3 fail with exactly the same issue. If I can't get any spare 510 wheels, I'm in trouble! I've been servicing and repairing the A2836, A7750 and other movements for years and have many spare parts here. I only hope Joshua can convince the MZ factory to start supplying a few spares. I'd be happy to pay good money for them!
  3. Hello all, I am starting to experience failure of the auto wind on these SA3135. In particular the "ratchet wheel driving wheel" part no. 510 (brass wheel with four holes) The teeth on these wheels are being worn down, probably due to poor tolerances and engagement with the Reversing Wheels. Is anyone else experiencing this issue. Can we get/buy replacements (part 510) does anyone know? I'm hoping to get some from my TD Joshua. Unfortunately the original part from Rolex does not fit, the pivots are larger on the original part and don't fit the jewel holes of the SA3135. I do my own service work here at home and have 10 years experience as a watchmaker.
  4. I am a watchmaker, no I didn't service it, it wouldn't of made any difference to this area. Poor tolerances are the problem and possibly a failing Reversing Wheel 540. I've only just started using these SA3135 instead of the ETA2836. I'm disappointed it's failed this quickly. I note the Reversing Wheels 540 (2x) in this SA3135 aren't like the originals or the ones I've seen in the Yuki 3135. They do not come apart and do not look the same on the underside, you cannot see the ratchet. I bet these are the problem. Someone has cut corners again and served up rubbish!!
  5. I have a SA3135 in a Sub HULK, its just 8 weeks old and the "Driving Wheel for Ratchet Wheel" (part:510) has failed. the teeth are worn down on one side :-( Can anyone help with this part? Or does anyone know if the original rolex part 510 will fit this asian clone movement. I can buy the original part here in the uk easily. Thanks.
  6. I have a SA3135 in a Sub HULK, its just 8 weeks old and the "Driving Wheel for Ratchet Wheel" (part:510) has failed. the teeth are worn down on one side :-( Can anyone help with this part? Or does anyone know if the original rolex part 510 will fit this asian clone movement. I can buy the original part here in the uk easily. Thanks.
  7. I agree, why are the TD stating it's a cloned 4130! Its not a clone at all! If it's an A7750, are we going to see the same reliability issue as the previous thicker Daytona with fully functioning Chronograph? There is a fix for this reliability issue but you'll need to strip the movement down and remove the problematic wheel which means the Running Seconds Subdial at 6 will no longer work. I have had to perform this fix on 90% of all the older thicker Daytona and that equates to hundreds!!! See my post about this yesterday:
  8. The large centre Chronograph Seconds hand does start/stop via top Pusher and is Reset via bottom Pusher. The Subdials at 3&9 do not work. I am a watchmaker and service all watches. I can see underneath the faux bridges/plate that it is indeed a A7750 and Joshua has confirmed this to be the case now that I have questioned it. He now tells me the actual cloned 4130 is still in the making, which completely contradicts what he states in his description. There is no mention of it being the A7750 in this model. I'm not sure exactly what they have done to get it into a 13mm case. I will understand better once I can have worked out how to remove the Rotor which in turn will allow me to remove the faux bridges/plate to get to the actual working movement. As you say this is very poor on Joshua's part and very misleading. I'm not at all happy about it. I have bought at least 6x of these pieces now for my customers on the belief that this was indeed a clone of the 4130 and not just a faux bridge/plate hiding a A7750. And more to the point..... am I now going to get the problem with the Running Seconds Subdial @ 6 which normally needs to be disengaged to enable the watch to even run properly because of a problematic wheel further up the chain. This has always been an on going problem with the modified A7750 when used in the Daytona.
  9. I bought a few of these Daytona 904L from Joshua (RLDS00911) he states these have the cloned Rolex 4130 movement. I noted the "Rotor" was noisy and free spinning in the anti-clockwise direction (typical of the 7750). I normally like to lightly grease the Rotor bearing on the A7750 movements, it makes them much quieter. When I opened up the above Daytona, I found it's not a cloned 4130 movement at all! I want to remove the Rotor to grease the bearing but the obvious 3x screws are fake and just imitation. Has anyone removed the Rotor on these movements yet? If so how is it held in place? I don't want to risk breaking it. From what I can see under the fake 4130 bridge plate its just an A7750. The way Joshua states it on his website, I expected it to be a genuine clone or very nearly like the SA3135 has been done, which is pretty much piece for piece indentical to the Rolex 3135. When I put this to Joshua, his reply was "Correct that watch does have an A7750 movement. The 4130 is still in the making" So why state that this Daytona has the new cloned 4130 ?? Can't help feeling conned!! Anyway its the Rotor I want to remove if anyone can help me please? Thank you.
  10. Sorry, this has probably been asked a thousand times, but i cant find one of them via the search. This is actually on a Hublot Big King, which uses a 7750 with all the chrono parts stripped off. I had to adjust the spring tension and cam screw to get the running seconds to even work properly, as it just kept stopping because the transfer gear was not engaging onto the seconds wheel. Works fine now but very jumpy and obvious to the eye. Is there away to rectify the jumpy seconds hand, or is it a question of adjusting the cam and spring tension until it runs smoothly. I am newly self taught watchmaker and strip these 7750's on a regular basis so pretty up on the understanding of the works. Can a more accomplished watchmaker point me in the right direction please? King regards Neil
  11. Hi Chaps, Thanks for the info, very willing to become a supporter, can't seem to find much info on it though? Have clicked the upgrade icon and sent message to the admin, so hopefully i can pay and become a supporter. I have a 7750 in bits at the moment and need pics for help in reassembley. I must make more time to come on here! I have found some great reads since yesterday. Unforutunately i have to many other interests and not enough time in the day. I promise to make more effort. Cheers Neil
  12. Hi, Haven't been on here for quite a while, i was trying to track down the 3 part strip down of a 7750 that The Zigmeister did a couple of years back, it was on the old site and was very detailed with good pics. Does anyone know if The Zigmeister is still contactable or the info he did on the 7750 is still available. I have tried sending him a private message but it won't go through and i can't find that very valuable strip down of the 7750 he did anywhere??? Any help would be good. Thanks Neil
  13. Sorry never used it before not sure about doing that. I did try to upload one on here but it didn't seem to appear. I have just examined another 7750 movement and the tab is broken on this 7750 therefore it is not pushing the lever to reset the 12hr subdial. The bottom tab seems to be held by a single rivet of sorts. How do i remove this to replace the tab lever? Shame it wasn't the top tab as thats held on by a post and screw which i have taken off before. This is the first time i have had trouble with the bottom tab. I have a spare here, it's just getting the old broken one off? Regards Neil
  14. HI The Zigmeister, Think you just hit the nail on the head!! What i didn't realise is that the metal tab the pusher operates has what looks like a piece broken off it. Please email me so i can send pictures for your expert opinion. Thank you kind regards Neil
  15. Hi The Zigmeister, You helped me before on an autowinding problem on a 7750. The problem i have this time is on a 7750 daytona (6oclock running secs). The 12 hour subdial won't reset, have been reading your post on this area and understand it quite well now. The spring lever is sticking out the side of the case up by the top pusher, when i push it in with a small screwdriver it does reset the 12hr subdial. I note you say that if this dial does not reset on the pusher the tabs are not ligned up on the levers. Is there a way to rectify this without stripping the movement down. ie pushing this lever back in position somhow? Everything else works fine, starts/stops resets. Only the 12hr subdial is not. I don't think i'm ready to dismantle that bridge you mention as it sounds really awkward to get everything back in position. i.e. The spring for the reset lever. Posted as a topic because wasn't sure if the private message sent of not. Regards Neil
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