justudor

Phew, tube installed and stem cut to fit. I swear the crown isn't sitting as flat as it should. That is, against the case. But it could just be my perception. NEED to do this cannon pinion. I can't believe it bothers me so much! Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Sorry guys, so is H4 or H3 more suitable for 2824 movement? Thanks

Yes. It looks great. A nice touch and look gen or not! Here is how mine sits on my black and white. Might order 2 CP and install onto pumpkin and this one. Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk

Nice! It does make a nice difference I think. Do you know if you have to remove much to fit the pinion? Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Great dialogue going on here and good info for all. Thanks! Thanks Adrian - So, a H3 or H4 is fine on the 2824/6 movement. H4 being higher and more accurate? Yes, it looks like such a challenge to do! *sigh

Very nice sir. Is it a simple upgrade? H3 is shorter than h4? I don't think it's worthwhile to get a gen case. I'd go second hand gen, considering the cases would be $5-700? It is definitely a compromised option to glue the tube but seems to be the accepted method on the forums. I'd be willing to listen to other options but not for the cost of a gen case! Very nice. Easy to do I imagine? H4 is the ideal option? Thanks Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Are you suggesting that the entire process of a glue in place to seat the tube is not sufficient or should one use epoxy? I have paid for tube and stem and will be looking to assemble when they arrive and compelte the above pumpkin (finally!) Does anyone know if the H4 cannon pinion is a worthy upgrade? Would be nice to get the stack a little higher.

Everyone, FYI - I have successfully installed the Gen Bezel assembly onto the V5 4813 PO 42mm Case. Just need stem, tube and I should be complete.

I haven't seen a 8500 drop past 3800USD. 42mm PO 2500 start from at best 2600-3400 I've seen, of varying conditions and included items.

Hope you're ok. I hate mindless moronic acts of violence or stupidity. Everyone should grow up. Looks like 21J, but let someone else confirm. Definitely not 2824/2836 or 25J

Version 3 Case Swiss 2824 Gen Dial Gen Hands Gen DW Unknown crystal with good double AR (odd dull brown hue) Gen Bezel insert Rep bezel (Could NEVER pull the bezel off this too) Transplant into: Version 5 Case 4813 shipped variant. Swiss 2824 Gen Dial Gen Hands Gen DW Gen crystal (more AR scuffs than I remembered and possibly marks on the inside too) Rep bezel (Could NOTpull on the genuine bezel )

Hi all, Further to this thread, I just finished a trial fit of franken parts into a V5 4813 case. I had no issues whatsoever except I couldn't get the bezel to seat onto case. No matter what I did. It was so tough. Anyone know if this should be an issue or was I doing something wrong? The rep bezel came off so easy it was funny. I even used the brass (?) movement holder but flipped the securing tabs upside down to get a better seat of ring against case. The gen crystal pressed on fine but was almost too easy so I do question the water proof-ness. The tube was screwed in and I used pliers to remove. From what I read epoxy is a good option to seating new tube (which I don't have yet). I also noted that the version 3 case and rep crown used a shorter stem into the 2824 clone movement. The gen crown is 'shorter' and will require a longer stem.

Also happy to assist, as I'm based in Sydney. Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk

2 releases of 100 each were sold out in a very quick time. I think a day or so. Incredible response. I actually bought a genuine because I like it so much and will forever be uncomfortable wearing reps. In any case, it's looks really, scarily accurate. Pearl was an issue and some minor things that no one would notice. Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk

My example was listed as 2836, but when I ran into problems weeks into ownership. The movement markings said 2824. So not sure why. Sent from my GT-p6800 using Tapatalk

You are all welcome guys - happy to contribute to the forums

Dear All, I have always been intrigued by Lume and a little more recently, Anti-Reflective coating. IMO it really sets off any watch and simply exudes quality and improves clarity extraordinarily. I love it! I really can't stand a watch face being obstructed by the dispersion of ambient light across the crystal's face; rendering it hard to read; harder to appreciate the watch;and allow a silly spread of light over the face. I have really been spoilt lately by the AR on my Omegas. Please see some really amateur shots of 3 different crystals I have in my possession. Taken with an older Canon Ixus 80is in macro mode, and fluoro desk lamp as lighting. Steinhart watch, I believe has an aftermarket sapphire with no AR. Really terrible actually. Sunnydale 42mm double AR - really impressive. Genuine Omega 42mm double AR - also impressive. Sunnydale 42mm Double AR I believe this was the Omega: Omega again: Omega: Pretty sure the Omega is on the bottom, or furthest away from the watch head Omega on the right: NO AR: Snowflake homage with same Steinhart watch Hope this was interesting or helpful. I am led to believe Sunnydale is also opening up a new offer on AR crystals of buyer specified dimensions. Considering the great work as exemplified on the forums, you can't go wrong and would be silly to miss the opportunity - should you find AR as important and impressive as I do. Best-

Dear All, Sorry about the delayed reply, forgot about this! Thanks for the insight everyone. I will NOT be diving so I think the necessary precautions as mentioned will hopefully suffice. Thanks again

Dear All, As above. At what point is a pressure test warranted? Is it a matter of course that they should be done every time the watch has experienced any disassembly? Would a caseback removal and replacement using grease warrant a pressure test in your opinion/experience? Thanks all, dainese

have a look on the RWI PLanet ocean parts thread. Try cross referencing the part numbers

I also wondered about this too. We all know lume degrades with time but is it from light absorption and release or physical ageing? Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Would typical practice be to grease seals and check fit etc before they test? I'm just wondering about the order in which to do it. I want to waterproof but if I can do it locally I will. Modders want 70usd to waterproof. Sent from my GT-P6800 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Screws? Not pins!

Haha Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 4 Beta