spazthecat

I’m interested. Count me in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tried the printer at work and it definitely gives a better result. Black is denser and more even and text is sharper. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sort of. I’d like it sharper but I think it’s a limitation of my printer. There’s a small bit of ink “overspray” into the white areas. I’ve cleaned the print head, even removed it and rinsed it with alcohol until the run off was clear. Ran all of the realignment and print test utilities and the result is the same. I have access to an HP DesignJet printer at work, I might give it a try with that if I can get a little private time with the printer. Yep, those pinholes are annoying. Fortunately they aren’t present on each dial on the sheet. And, like you, found you can pretty effectively make the disappear with a little sanding another another layer of Krylon. Thanks, Andy Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Finally got my print driver settings dialed in. My first dial attempt is below (unfinished, freshly slid onto dial plate)It’s got some defects in the paper so, I’ll have to be a little more careful when I do it “for real” but, all in all, I’m pretty happy. Thanks for all the tips in this thread and others. —Andy Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Well, I figured out what the issue is and though I’d share it as it might be helpful to others. It did turn out to be the printers black and white printer resolution. I ended up making a basic dial in Illustrator. Just a chapter ring and hour markers. Printing a black dial looks like crap but changing the dial color to blue turned out great. So, I guess I’ll try fooling around with the dial color. I think I could go with a really dark navy blue and would be able to get it to look black. Either that or just buy a new printer... Thanks, Andy Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi, After a little break from reps, I thought I’d give dial printing a go and I’m running into a little problem with print quality that I can’t quite figure out and was hoping someone might have a few pointers for troubleshooting. Basically, the dial text is quite blurry and looks kind of too small for the dial. No where near as crisp as what I’ve seen in some of the pictures in this thread. I’m working with the 6610 template that Bart so graciously donated to the forum. What I’m doing to print is as follows: 1. Open dial template is Photoshop 2. Create a new 4x6 document at a resolution of 2400. Its glossy photo paper and I picked that resolution as that appears to be the resolution of the dial template. 3. Copy and paste the dial template into the new document repeatedly arrange them in a grid. 4. Print the newly created document of dials. I’ve tried a variety of print settings for print quality from “normal” to “super fine”. Only difference I can see is the black is much smoother and darker under “super fine” than the Lowe settings. Printer specs show it supports 9600x2400 for color printing and 600x600 for black and white. Only thing I can think of is that I’m getting limited by the black and white printing resolution. Thanks, Andy Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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Hi, Basically just doing due diligence here as a know nothing about Breitling watches. My brother-in-law found an old Navitimer II in a drawer and wanted me to take a look and get it running again. Caseback has a model number (6323) that I can’t find any info about and it’s a Miyota quartz. From what I can tell, Breitling never made a quartz based Navitimer from that era. Thanks, Andy Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I might be in the minority, but I have nothing against the DG2813 movement. The few I've owned were just fine and I'm reasonably comfortable breaking down a movement and cleaning it. So, provided I don't need to buy parts, I should be OK in that regard. I'll have to look for that thread on RWI when they are back up. It sounds interesting and would be helpful. Appreciate the responses. Thanks, Andy

I’m in the market for something relatively cheap and was leaning towards a Regmariner but then I came across a Noob Seadweller on Toro’s site for $138 http://www.tb-2018.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1419 Just wondering if anyone has one and what they think? Seems like it can’t be all that bad and the price is right. Thanks, Andy Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi, I've got a Daytona my brother-in-law picked up in Tailand and one of the pushers is stuck in the "out' position. That is, I can't get the crown of the pusher to screw down and when I do push it down it will stick there. So, I was trying to dissamble the pusher and try to repair it. It's the type of pusher with a tiny c-clamp which I thought was holding it in place. However, with the c-clamp removed, I'm still not able to remove the plunger. Any suggestions? Thanks, Andy

Last two cartel subs I received had the white gasket you are talking about. It’s meant to take up the extra space between the crystal and the retaining ring. Basically, the crystal is too small. I’d measure the ID diameter of the retaining ring and then order a PA crystal that Jackflash mentioned. There are a couple of different sizes to pick from. Worst case is you have to glue the crystal in place. I ended up doing that on mine because the bezel assembly plus crystal kept popping off. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi, I have a Tudor Black Bay Bronze and the stem broke off in the crown. I was able to successfully dissolve the remaining stem by soaking it in an alum solution. The crown seems fine, but won't the alum solution also affect the integrity of the spring causing it to eventually fail? Thanks, Andy

Toaster oven. Lowest "toast" setting for 10 minutes. I was really pretty surprised it turned that quick. Other dials that I've baked took quite a bit more time. I had the hands in for the same amount time and they look brand new still....

Thanks. I just might take you up on that. Just curious, but do you still sell budget Explorer dials? I really don't feel like waiting for another one from Raffles and my effort at printing a decal for a new dial is not moving quickly/smoothly either. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Well, another Explorer dial, another mistake made in dial aging. Glad it was a cheap Raffles Dial. Tried baking this one and it went a bit too far. Looks pretty bronze in person.... The more I try this the more respect I have for you guys that do this and it looks good. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks for the replies. So, I'm playing around with tracing just the basic stuff on the dial. When you zoom in to 200-300% things get pretty pixelated and there is a definite solid white edge and then the pixels get significantly lighter. Do you trace around just the more defined obviously white pixels or are the lighter ones important to capture in the shape? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Great work on these decals. You've made me think I can give it a go myself! So, I've been reading through the thread and had a general question before I download a trial of Photoshop. When you start your project in Photoshop, are you starting with a empty picture and drawing in a circle for the dial and then placing all of the various elements in picture? Or, are you starting with a decent quality picture of the dial and then doing a tracing of it in Photoshop? Thanks, Andy

Hi, I've taken glossy dials and made them matte and the results are usually pretty good. But, is just as easy to go the opposite direction? That is, take a matte dial and spray it with a good quality gloss or semi-gloss varnish to get a glossy dial? I don't have a test dial I can try it out on first and didn't want to ruin the dial experimenting. Thanks, Andy

Hi, I've got a rep Explorer 214270 that I picked up cheap with the intent of using it to learn how to relume a watch dial. The numbered indices even came with lume on them and I wanted that off. So, I gave them a good acetone soak and rubbed them lightly with a q-tip and the lume and base paint layer came off pretty easily. Now, however, the problem is what was under the paint. There are a fair number of scratches and dull spots on them and I'd like to polish them up a bit. I'm not expecting perfection, just a decent improvement. Any suggestions for a process or product to do this? I tried a cape cod cloth already and that didn't make much of a difference. But, I also didn't go at it very hard as I'm afraid of rubbing the plating off of them. Thanks, Andy

Hi, I think this is correct but was looking for confirmation before I buy one. In a Rolex crystal reference number, does the middle set of digits represent the crystal diameter? For example, a 25-315-C2 would have a diameter of 31.5 mm. I'm looking to replace the crystal on my Explorer I 214270 and that crystal measures 31.5. Thanks, Andy Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks for the replies. Yeah, I think I need to use a little thinner from the start so it flows better into the corners. I always seem to get into trouble when I try to keep it thicker and push it into the corners. So, I'm thinking a little thinner and then multiple applications is a better way to go. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

So, this was my first attempt at resuming a dial. Didn't turn out terrible, but it's not as even as I'd like. Not sure I'll redo it though. The lume is still damp at this point. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks for the responses. I was shooting for something more natural looking. Funny how it didn't really look that "aged" when I was working on it. Then i got it out of the sun and let it dry completely.... For the hands I use 2000 grit sandpaper and coffee grounds. I roughed up the hands first and the covered them unevenly with a thin layer of wet grounds and let it dry in the sun. That was really it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

So, tonight I finished up another Explorer 1016 build and I think I over aged the dial and hands. It was a cheap-o dial, so I wasn't worried about ruining it, but it might be too much. What do you think? Thanks, Andy Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk