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mojo2001

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About mojo2001

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    United States

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    East Coast

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  1. Clarks dome 39 is really very nice and worth the price. I'm wearing one now (on a watch, of course). I have tried the Helfands flat 39 and it is nothing to write home about...but not bad as a budget solution. I say go for the CWP dome!!
  2. The mag on a 1680 is way higher because the crystal is higher, i.e. farther away from the dial. I have a gen crystal on my MBW and the date FILLS the cyclops. This is the way it is....COOL, huh?
  3. Did the whole stem come out or did the crown unscrew from the stem (or did the stem snap)? Each represents a different repair job. If the crown simply unscrewed, that would be the easiest one to fix...a pulled out stem could be an easy fix unless the keyless works are screwed up, then it is a moderately complicated fix, probably requiring a watchmaker's aid
  4. After installing a gen crown and tube on my MBW 1665, it appears the stem is too long. I can't get the crown to screw down and the cause appears to be that the crown will not push in deeply enough to engage the threads on the tube. Need to get the crown in by few more mm. My question: What is the best way to cut a threaded stem to least distort the threads? Any hints appreciated mojo
  5. That same watch was listed by the same seller a few weeks ago. Discussed on RWI Scams section at the time. If it is NOT the same watch, that is even more suspicious...how many Daytonas did this guy buy back "in the 80s"?? mojo
  6. Man, I like that effect... "Rolex" indeed looks good! What about if, instead of using a sanding cylinder on a dremel--rigid and can't "dig" into the letter--you use a piece of fine emery cloth on the tip of your finger or some other flexible sanding medium that will get down into the nooks and spread out the top of the engraved letters? I am thinking about the fiberglass fiber sanding "pens" but that would require a mask so that not too many microscopic fibers are inhaled in the process. Maybe even a rough ink eraser...or some emery cloth wrapped aound a pencil eraser? Anyway, good work Bro! I can't tell you how much I appreciate your experimentation so we can all learn from your mistakes and successes! mojo
  7. Lookin good!!! Are they the Clark Tudor hands? I like em.
  8. I had one and must say that that Silix "Cartier" is pretty nice as the general run of vintage cn reps goes. Otherwise, you're right...ain't much around.
  9. Changed the crystal on my 1680 in 20 minutes. However, I'm a bit stuck with my DRSD. I can't get the crystal retaining ring off. Usual method of prying it up with razor blade to get started following with a stout knife is getting me nowhere. Crystal ring is totally flush with case and I can't find even a slight crevice to wedge a prying device between the ring and the case. This thing is well put together, I'll say that much... Anybody have any tips?
  10. Freddy...I hear what you are saying about the dials. It would be nice to have a crystal that would turn the MBW "SEA DWELLER" text the right color of cherry red, wouldn't it? I was looking more at the black. The spurious reflections and haziness of the stock crystal don't even do the MBW dial justice. Anyway, screw it....I'm gonna go buy a Clark and at least take that step in the right direction! Thanks for all the interesting SD discussions!
  11. Thanks for the pics!! I can see how the Clark enhances the color and visuals of the dial while the stock MBW seems to cloud up the image. I notice the same thing on my DRSD....and I saw a parallel change when I put a gen 127 on my WM 1680. Suddenly the dial sort of clicked into focus. The stock MBW plastic is funky...doesn't seem clear and smooth. Also quite soft and easy to scratch compared to gen acrylic I noticed...but whattaya expect, I guess. Does the Clark have the well polished look of a gen crystal? Does it catch the light and sparkle like a gen? This notion of material quality to me is more important than exact geometry. From these pics, I'd say the Clark looks fairly promising.
  12. Fascinating...especially since I am in the market for a good T39...not too impressed with the Helfands 9 buck job sitting here on my desk for the last two months. Compared with the gen 127 on my 1680, the plastic looks like junk. The gen is so clear and sparkly in comparison. Does anybody have pics of the Clark 39 on a watch, illustrating the effects of the distortion? I'm tempted due to price and easy availability.
  13. Great post! I have a PR-516 black dial like this on a black kevlar strap. This is indeed a nice watch!! You inspired me to wear mine tomorrow. I see the leather strap versions on ebay for around $200 and at discount retailers online for under $250. I think this might be a discontinued model, available at attractive prices...well worth it. I really like that white dial version with the "rally style" metal bracelet! Excellent choice!
  14. I don't know if it the BEST way, but I took edges off a bracelet yesterday using a medium-fine file. I tried using emory cloth on this one especially "edgy" bracelet and it didn't do the trick. A file used carefully got me closer to where I want to be. Next step will be dremel buffing wheel. Anybody have a tested scientific approach?
  15. I don't know, Mon....that caseback does not look like it was re-engraved to me. Totally perfect and even in all dimensions. When pros engrave stuff like that they use stencils or a pantograph driven by a stylus riding in a stencil. NOBODY could do that freehand, I don't think. How about polexpete's suggestion of sanding and buffing. That seems like a recipe to enlarge the opening at the top of the letter a bit. Downside risk is certainly lower. Otherwise, I'd ask somebody who engraves for a living what they think.
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