Dizzy

Wow where have I been… I wasn’t very active on the forums for a couple years and I am just seeing this now. He was a great man. I sold him my old super patina distressed Comex 5514 build many many years ago. I didn’t even want to sell it but after I posted pics of it on the forum, he fell in love with it and wanted it. I couldn’t say no. I am so sorry for your loss. RIP.

That’s a nice dial. I am starting to really like the tropical dials and I think I need to get one for my next build. Nice work man!

The new ST case will work with the clone 3135 but like you guys said, the rehaut is deeper. If you find an older ST case for the 3035, it will have the shallower rehaut but the 3135 stem won’t line up. A good case if you can find one is the old “Noobmariner” 16610 as they have a nice shallow rehaut. For my 16800 I used a JF v1 and shaved off the rehaut engraving and it’s a bit shallow like you want and still takes the 3135. You need to upgrade the bezel assembly though becasuse it’s junk. I don’t have an old noobmariner anymore but from what I remember it would be perfect for a 16800.

Wow I can’t wait to get mine. Ordered it today! Looks amazing.

The ARF with the SH3135 is the perfect package. The A3135 is a lower end movement and doesn’t accept all the genuine replacement parts like the SH3135 does.

The black dial is one of the worst dials I have ever seen on a Daytona. Look how thick those subdials are! 🙈 swap in an ARF dial and bezel and then you’ve got something. That’s my plan. Next step would be Gen dial, hands and bezel. Dizzy.

Depending what Dw case you have, either the v23 or the v72 will fit. The stem height is different I believe. But yes your watch smith is correct, the dial will need to be glued on and the MM stem will def not fit the v23. My dw case needs the v23 I know that for sure. Maybe you need the v72. If you decide to sell your v23 let me know. You can also just get the MM serviced like I did about 10 years ago and it’s still working fine. Dizzy

Yep as stated above. Clean and scuff both surfaces and clean with rubbing alcohol. Use a good clear two-part epoxy and not any of that quick dry stuff. You won’t need much. Like one drop. Attach the crown back on there and clamp it lightly or put weight on it and let it dry for 24 hours. It will never come off again.

The ARF bracelet is very good. I’m not very familiar with the yachtmasters or the 16622 bracelet but I think the end links are different than the submariner. Maybe an ARF Daytona bracelet would be a good match but it might not be period correct. The older Rolex bracelets are pretty light especially the ones with the hollow middle links. So “wobbly” is sort of the way they were back then. You might want to try to find a JF16610 sub bracelet. They are very well made and would be closer to the era of your watch.

Someone needs to make a ready made eta datewheel with the silver flat top so we don’t have to mess with aligning it. I hate aligning them.

I will have to check my 1680 and report back. It’s an old one I’m guessing 2007 or older. Dizzy

Wow man that sucks. Straight up scam. Sounds like his dealings with Sillix Prime over on Repgeek right now. Paid them western union or something and put all sorts of notes about the website and watches on the payment info and the bank stopped the payment. And now he’s blaming Sillix even though they never received the money. These trusted dealers wouldn’t be around very long if they scammed people out of money. Hope you get this sorted out and there’s an explanation for this. Dizzy.

We shall see how reliable it is and wait for a movement tear down by one of the masters on the forums. Dizzy

I’ve got a yellow gold BP day-date 40 from Andrew supposedly with ETA movement. I doubt it’s real ETA but it keeps good time so far. It’s actually a very nice watch with a pretty good dial. I can’t comment on the gold plating as I’ve only had it for a couple months.

I need a set of those 571’s also. I’ll buy the ones with the wrong markings if you wanna get rid of them. I’m in Canada.

My JF16610 failed within 2 weeks. I sent it back and it took over 2 months for them to “repair it”. But of course I got it back and it wasn’t fixed. Had the same movement issue as before. Now I sent it away again this week. I paid for the watch 4 months ago and it’s just being send away again for repair. It’s a very slow process but I don’t think it’s puretimes fault. They prob get a lot of returns they have to deal with. Dizzy

I used to get the date just cases from a jewellery store in Florida. The only parts missing off the watch were the movement, hands and clasp. They were probably putting the movements into MBW 1680 cases haha. They also seemed kinda sketchy whenever i talked to them. I remember getting one with a white gold bezel but it was really worn. I don't remember what I did with it. I might still have it in my pile of gen parts.

I used a gen case with 2824 and movement adapter brass rings off eBay. Worked perfect and the stem is pretty darn close but not perfect alignment. I don't know where you would find gen cases these days. I used to get them off eBay for $100 back 10-15 years ago. You could get an entire stainless date just with water damaged rusted out movement for $350-400. I think they are worth more than that now. Haha.

I was actually thinking about getting another 16610. I sold my old mbw a while ago. I saw the JF on Andrews site and it looked good but I wondered why it was $408. The BP 16610 is a bit less but looks good also. I wonder what movement that would have. Are the normal Asian 3135 not very good yet? I'd prob prefer a nice real Swiss movement if available. It's not like I'm going to be opening it and looking at the movement all the time anyways. I've been out of touch in the watch world for a few years so I don't know much about the current Asian 3135 movements but it seems like the Yuki is the one to look for. I might get the JF and swap in a black insert. I like the maxi dial markers. Dizz

I can pull the cyclops off and AR the crystal properly as rolex does at the factory. The crystal itself needs to be done top and bottom under the cyclops as well as the he bottom of the cyclops itself. That's how you get that black hole effect.

I would never send a rep back to China. I did that once when a watch arrived literally rusted up from Paul one of the old dealers on another forum. 6 weeks later the tracking number still said undelivered and he said he never received it. What a nightmare. Hopefully You get things sorted out. I'm sure the dealer will make it right. The guys here are pretty good.

I don't bother with gen movements. I go for as much gen construction as possible and then use a good ETA movement. Just as reliable. The only watch I would use a gen type movement in is a v72 or a El Primero in a Daytona. I might put a gen 1570 into my mbw1680 if I ever came across a good deal on one but only because I plan on keeping that one forever. The 1680 has always been my favorite Rolex. I'm working on a 6152/1 panerai right now and as soon as I get this one sorted out, in going to get a Yuki 7206 and build this stainless president. I've been holding onto this black day date dial for a while now. Can't wait to put it to good use.

Ok cool I'm going to look into that or getting this crystal properly AR'd.

Well I received my BP sub today via Sead. Overall impression is pretty good. Not bad for $155 watch. Dial is nice and date wheel is very centered. The "AR cyclops" is pretty lame though. It's got a bit of a blue tint to it but definitely no black hole effect like the gen. It doesn't really do much of anything at all. I was expecting a lot more and I would have gladly paid extra to have it correct. It's a huge feature on these new ceramic Rolexs that they are failing to replicate. Don't let anyone tell you it's the correct AR because it's not even close to the genuine crystal. The case and bezel are nice and the crown is ok. The bracket is pretty good and my only complaint about the clasp is that the glued/soldered on rolex cornet is WAY off center on the flip lock. That seems to be a weak point in a lot of rolex reps. Not sure why they have so much trouble centering the crown on the clasp. Mine is way off and I'll probably have to replace the clasp because it's too far off center to live with. I'll see if I can find a noob clasp somewhere. I've seen some guys puttin gen crystals into these watches. Does anyone know if a gen crystal will fit into the BP factory rep?

I have a gen black president daydate dial that I am going to put into one of my Franken datejusts. It's all gen construction with eta 2836. I'm going to swap in the pres dial and put on a yuki 7206 bracelet. I'm going to go with the stainless president 6611 look or whatever that watch is. I think it will make a nice looking watch especially with the rivet bracelet installed for the vintage look and feel.