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tourbillon

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About tourbillon

  • Birthday 01/01/1964

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    United States

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    USA

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  1. Hint: I'm sure he means ETA 2892-A2. Use the search function.
  2. Demand seems to have risen the price. Ofrei has them now and again. The last one I acquired was from here: http://www.jewelerssupplies.com/ETA-2846.html
  3. Here's another 5508. Again, one can work with this dial. No cigar for the bezel though. The bracelet is a little closer although I can't tell if this one has hollow mid-links. The Eta 2836 is too much engine for this vehicle but swapping out is a snap. http://www.pc-80108.com/rlsv10014-vintage-...362-p-3285.html http://www.jewelerssupplies.com/ETA-2846.html
  4. Absolutely dead on with the above replies. It has to do with the number of points of friction. Generally speaking, a movement with the dial up will have "half" of its pivot points resting their weight in their respective jewels and therefore, less friction. A watch held crown up or crown down will have all of the gears' weight/friction on both its top and bottom pivot points, and therefore will run a little more slowly.
  5. You can work with that dial but this silix watch has the wrong bezel. The 5508 has a smaller bezel and it does not have a coin edge. Rather, they are a series of squares and equal spaces. Also, this movement has an Asian movement and you never know if the dial feet will line up with an ETA. Had it an ETA, I would swap it out with an ETA 2846 since this motor has a bph of 21600 bph (6 beats per sec as opposed to the original's 5) and is non-hacking, another trait of the original. The bracelet, of course, would have to be changed to the riveted type with the single clasp.
  6. Sorry for such a small image. I kept reducing the image until I was allowed to upload it.
  7. That's a great finish. I think for that era, the clear matte finish and white markers works quite well. Lipton Tea is an easy alternative for an older look. You can matte and mottle a dial, and add layers of tea to the hands until they are stained the yellow you want.
  8. I find that some something as simple as Lipton tea is enough to age/matte the dial and markers. It does wonders for the hands too. If I make a mistake, I just wipe it off and start over. It looks great.
  9. I have acquired 2 beginmariners in the past month and there some differences between them. The bezel is nice and snug on one and really loose on the other. The numbers on one bezel insert are acceptable and way too fat and blocky on the other. Fortunately, the good points occur on one and the bad points on the other -- Oh well. 3 More observations: Both cyclops seem not to be centered on the number and bear a little to the left. The crown stamp on the clasp is a little iffy. And yes, the circle on the second hand is too close to the dial markers. Having said all that, I bought these for the case and am still very satisfied with the first one.
  10. What a nice collection of Breitlings! I had this one (I have given it away) and I have a black dial on order. But I haven't seen any black dials in this collection. Does Breitling not make Gen Black dials? After seeing so many white dials, I'm wondering if I should have gotten the white dial!
  11. Hello Gentlemen. Because of the fine information available herein, I have searched out the perfect Rep. I feel very indebted to all, as I think I have finally found it -- the Breitling Steelfish. In addition, because of the talent that is clearly displayed on these pages, I have been inspired to brush up on my photography. I used to pick up the camera back in the days of darkness, developer, and fixer. Again, thank you.
  12. I know this is an old post but it goes to show how some folks have similar tastes. I too switched the bezel insert to black because I couldn't get used to the green. And I like the larger markers. I'm going to try to upload some pics now. On a similar note, does anyone know where I can get the right dial for this? I still would like the option of switching as my whim does. It would have to fit a 2836-2.
  13. Beautiful pictorial! Care to detail and excellent craftsmanship is quite evident. Down to switching the cannon pinion, changing the crown, the wonderful lume, the use of Rodico and the blower....It all bears the mark of a true pro. Great work!
  14. Hello to all. What an awesome writeup! I wish I would have had this info years ago! I use brass rods acquired in Home Depot, about 3mm thick, cut to the appropriate length, shaped and bent so as to pry the hands off in the manner of de Carle. Two are required, of course, and I would strongly suggest protecting the dial with a piece of plastic (Bergeon #6938) as it should never be touched. I use a Horotec tool to replace the hands which is simply a plastic nib on one side that resembles a ball point pen without the ball point, and a flat surface on the other side of the tool. To handle the hands, I use a fine plastic tweezer that I remember acquiring off of Ebay. I had to switch from metal tweezers as my coffee drinking causes me to shake too much and I have nicked a few dials and the plastic tweezers are much less prone to damaging the hands. I try to temper my shake with some Johnny Walker Black and that seems to help too. You guys have inspired me to mod a rep sub. When I'm done, I'll post some pics.
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