giorgio

This one is $60 plus shipping: I might have to pick one up! Hope yours is the real deal though. Good luck!

A 22/18 strap will look rather "wimpy" on the BCE, but if you like it, you can look for an 18mm gen buckle (the chronomats had 20/18 straps)

and the "SWISS MADE" Shhhh!!!

The measurements are in the post above. I don't have a micrometer or anything, so they are pretty rough, but it seems to be pretty much the same dimensions as the old Chronomat (listed at 39x14.5mm). The only part that concerns me is whether the case is thick enough for the rotor to wind freely (I don't know how they measure the thickness of the case) The paper it's sitting on in the pictures is to scale if that helps. I got it on iOffer a long time ago, but the seller I got it from is no longer registered there. The thing about ioffer is that sometimes what you see is what you get, and other times they put up a pic of a good rep (or gen) and send you a $60 watch. In your case you're looking for a $60 watch so that shouldn't be an issue, as long as you get the one with the right caseback. The problem is most of the sellers only have one stock photo they use for each watch and dropship from a catalogue. Hope that helps and good luck on your project!

True - the 904L Rolex uses is something like 25% nickel. But I read somewhere that most of their watches (i.e. bracelets and casebacks - not cases) are now made with 316L because of nickel problems (either Nickel shortage, or customer allergies - can't remember now)

The unfortunate reality is that our world has always been built on one form of slaveery or another. It's just that it's not in our own backyards anymore (for most of us, anyway). For most people it's simply out of sight and out of mind. Far more products than we care to imagine are built in third world countries using one form of slavery or another ("sweatshops" being a type of slavery - i.e. long hours, poor working conditions, children, little or no pay, etc.).

The nickel allergy is becoming quite common these days. My dermatologist says that many cases of eczema can be attributed to an undiscovered nickel allergy (sometimes the reaction occurs between the fingers or on the tops of both hands, but not at the contact site) I guess you don't have a lot of steel watches then?

It's not my behaviour I'm trying to justify, TwoTone. The thread is here for everyone to read. You obviously didn't kick me for the OP (as you just stated). I only made two posts between that edit and your PM's, and here they are:

First I'd like to clarify that I'm not the one calling you out. I simply responded to a post that cites you as an example. Second, I have no private agenda. This is the second time you've mentioned this, and I don't know why. I do not have a "score to settle" with the collector, as you insist - or anyone else for that matter. Finally, I'd like you to cite this name-calling that you're accusing me of. You claim you made one observation based on name-calling. I don't do that and never have, but I was kicked off the board this weekend nonetheless. If someone here does indeed have an agenda, it certainly is not me. Nice choice of post icon by the way, it shows your level of maturity and sincerity. With that I'll accept your (rather forked and twisted) apology and offer you mine: I'm sorry that you decided to become involved in this.

@Twotone - I sent both you and Admin the same Personal Message, did you read it? Cause I sure didn't get a response. If you hadn't have kicked me off the forum and then blocked my PM so I couldn't respond right away we wouldn't be here. I even tried to communicate with you using the shoutbox (the only thing that worked) and got no reply. I stated that the collectors can't think we're dumb enough to fall for a 20 second lume exposure. I've heard a lot worse on "Looney Toons". I even *politely* asked you to explain what the problem with my post was, since I had edited that part out before I even read your post. I wasn't being facetious. If the question about the collector asking you to delete my post didn't ring true - then you shouldn't have been offended by it, and indeed you didn't seem to be. You then sent me PM's about my attitude towards Longshot and Robj? I'm going to assume that you two are good friends because, after being corrected by four different members, Longshot refused to admit his misunderstanding and proceeded to launch a personal attack on me. So really, you booted me off the board because Longshot didn't bother reading six posts correcting his error, then calling me a tool. Every other thread on this board has actual instances of rule violations in them. The only rule that was broken in here was broken by Longshot. I did nothing here that warranted so much as a warning - let alone being kicked off the board. So now you and 1 other person don't like my "tone". Four other people couldn't find anything wrong with it - you even warned one of them when he was one of two people who spoke up (thanks). I'm sorry, but the reader has to inflect their own tone into written literature. It sounds the way you want it to sound. Notice how that other person seems to be goading me into an argument? Sorry I didn't fall for it. Thanks for participating Z3K0. You tried your best. The only thing I have done is ruined a couple of people's chances to rip off n00bs and sell broken watches in the sales area - I'm sure those long standing members and their long time friends aren't happy about that. But I'm sure that's not what this is about - Should be pretty obvious to anyone who reads this thread from the beginning, but I don't get it. As far as the membership goes - yeah I was p*ssed off. I voluntarily upgraded out of gratitude - and then made a second donation out of the goodness of my heart. I didn't do it because K222 offered me a free A/R service, and I certainly did not do it so I could sell my junk for a profit and rip off n00bs - I have never sold anything on this board and I never planned to. I'm not interested in the money - that's never what this was about. Getting kicked off the board after being personally attacked by another member really upset me. But I also explained it to Admin and to you in those PM's I sent. As I have said to the both of you - this felt to me like an unjustified personal attack. If this is the case, and I am no longer welcomed here then say so and I'll be on my way. If it was all the result of someone having a bad day, or a big misunderstanding that spun out of control, then I offer my humblest apologies. Either way, you do what you feel is right.

Not sure if the quartz reps use the same case as the automatics. Here's a few on ioffer that might be worth looking at. You might be able to get them for $60-80 shipped. Ask them for more pics. The Chronomat GT was a couple of mm bigger than the early Chronomat. here,here, and here I bought one of these cheapies a while ago for a similar project (different seller). Never got the dial. Now that 7750 clones can be had for a buck and change (ajoesmith is selling them), I might get around to it. Dimensions: 38-39mm without crown 45mm lug to lug ~15-16mm thick 30mm dial 35mm caseback 20mm lugs pushers are ~10mm apart from centre of crown to centre of pusher at 2:00 and 4:00 Here are some pics of the one I got: p.s.

Thanks for the info.

Thank you. I understand that Pt and PD are in the same group, and so is Ni. Plating steel with either one of the three can yield a very similar appearance to it's corresponding white gold alloy. Nickel obviously being the least expensive and most readily available. Nickel is also the most durable and would be resistant to scratches or fading. The difference being the white gold will eventually wear and take on a yellow hue, while the Pt, Pd, or Ni plate will not. *edit* I have heard that Palladium plating can be done fairly inexpensively, but have no way to verify this. I call that asking questions and having a discussion, I apologize if you or anyone else believed that I have a problem with the collector. I assure you that this is not the case. The collector stated the watch was in the prototype stage, meaning that corrections/adjustments might still be possible. Best regards.

Oops, I meant 97, sorry about that, But I've already seceded the point about the date to -O I was neither complaining, nor insisting that they make a less accurate rep. I simply stated that the genuine BBK is in fact Palladium, and not white gold (which is gold plated with Nickel, Rhodium, Platinum, or Palladium), so plating the watch with gold would actually be inaccurate.. Thank you kindly for your input.

Okay. I don't have a genuine B&R (or a BBK for that matter), so I wasn't sure. I scaled both images in PSP and overlaid the B&R ono the BBK and they pretty much lined up. Obviously this method is not accurate to within a millimetres. SO maybe a 7750 is necessary then?

Thanks for taking the time to respond. The gen is actually Palladium (as Balosch mentioned), so unless you're plating your Gold with Palladium (which you're probably not) then it would be closer (not to mention far cheaper) just to use polished S/S with a nickel plating which is probably what you'll be doing anyway (without the gold). So you will be using a genuine Eta 7750 in this watch? By interchangeability, do you mean that all genuine parts will fit this watch and vice versa? The gen is $30K - is interchangeability really that important? Did you guys purchase a gen to replicate? Isn't the dial on this watch and the date location almost identical to that of the B&R BR01-92 (please don't jump in and tell me the B&R is 46mm while this is 48mm) which gets better results from the 2892? The 2892 has a smoother sweep, and is quieter) AFAIK, The only reason the gen BBK uses a 7750 is because they make 7750 copies in house at Hublot now.

Thanks to longshot for giving us even more examples of watches with 7750's and seconds at 9:00 complications - he even through in a Ferrari CHRONOGRAPH for good measure. Also, thanks for calling me a tool - you showed us who the man is, eh?!?!!!!!

I'm sorry about this topic guys - apparently I'm doing something here so it's going to get locked down and deleted. I apologize to Longshot (since apparently I took a "slap" at him? even though he's the one calling me names), and to robj, since sarcasm is now forbidden in this forum. Thanks for bringing this to my attention TwoTone. I would not have realized I was doing anything wrong, had you not been so swift as to inform me. Now you can lock it down and delete it, as you wanted to all along. Good day to all.

Yes they do...

Just for the record - I do like this watch, and my questions are serious questions. I really do want to know if there is any reason why this must contain a 7750 instead of a DG4813 other than to justify a higher price? Is the engraved rotor really necessary when the resources could be put to better use (e.g. fixing the pearl)? Does the "triple wrapped white gold" really make a difference? Almost every white gold rep I've seen (mostly Rolex) did just fine with polished stainless (even the sandblasted bezel insert on the Yachtmaster). So are these things really necessary, or is it simply a way to justify a $300-400-500+ price tag?

I'm generally discussing replicas in a replica general discussion forum. I don't care who's in bed with whom. I did not say anything wrong, or make any offensive comments in this thread, so if you're not interested in discussing this watch then don't post here. As for "a lot of non-chrono reps" I'd love to hear about all the non-complicated reps that use 7750, 'cause that's news to me.

I really don't understand what you mean. Maybe you ought to point out the problem.... Please clarify.

Oh yeah, I forgot to ROTFLMAO at the lume shot with a 20 SECOND EXPOSURE!!!!!

Josh and Andrew have unveiled their newest "prize": The Big Bang King!! Though they have not listed a price, knowing them they will want $300-400-500 or more for this watch. Knowing that their both here on the forum right now, in the off chance that they might answer, I have to ask: Why would you put a 7750 into a watch that has no chronograph or complication? Is a sculpted and engraved rotor really necessary on a watch with a solid caseback? Heavy white gold plating on stainless steel? This watch should be perfectly replicated, with an $20 4813 in a steel movement holder for a total price under $200 (maybe in the $100-150 range) Just my thoughts.

WTF is that? I figured you'd be all over that!