ThePadd

Oh well, mines going to be a cheap looky likey. It'll do till I can afford the real thing.

These watches will keep evolving over time, so this review may well be out of date by now. I do though think that people spend hours and hours pondering which sub rep is best, I know I did before buying a TC 16610LN V6 In reality 99% of people that see you wearing one of these will either assume its real and will not have the means to judge whether it is a fake or not. So its best to just choose one, buy it and wear it. If you really want the nearest thing to the real thing, then the best path is to invest that time in something that makes money, then buy the real thing. Now I have my TC, that's my next move! Padd

Wow, yes, great thread. I was having a quick look at this as I'm doing my own super budget 5513 build using a super cheap 16610 style case off FleaBay on RWI. The thing that has made me re-think it, is this video on YouTube - ...where we can see that, about 1:45 in, that the crystal on the 5513 fits over the case (ala Explorer) rather than set into it. How does the Cartel case work? It looks like the crystal is part of the bezel assembly?? I was thinking of getting a better case as I'm loving the rafllesdials dial and hands on a HZ6300 mov, and wanted to give it the case it deserves. I have an Athaya 700 crown ready to go on something.

The ETA clones from Seagull and Hangzou perform very well, and after initial run-in can be regulated to within a couple of seconds a day. These are in a sterile sub and sterile explorer rep. I also have a TC Sub 16610 V6 and the TC (Asian) 2824 in there is just awesome, extremely accurate and great (40 hour) power reserve. Okay the cost of the ETA clone movements mean your rep wont be cheap, but it will keep adequate time and wont just stop. I am thinking of getting a DG2813 now, just to see how bad it is!