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manodeoro last won the day on May 28

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About manodeoro

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    This just keeps on getting better...

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  1. Too bad ... FIRST lesson is "good and clean place = good and clean work" ... I learned that one from direct experience Keep the link as it gives really good advices aboutu "how to position this or that" ... using that document you could desassemble and reassemble a 28xx keyless works in less than 5 minutes and get perfect results. Just take note that the movement used in that tuto is a no-date so the combined setting lever jumper has only 2 positions on the setting lever spring (setting + winding). Have a look at the last pic and you will see how the U-spring should go to left of the yoke return pin ... that could explain why your movement didn't wind after reassembly. IMPORTANT : do NOT throw your broken movement away ... kep it aside, gather spare parts along the way ... someday you will repair it
  2. Problem YES but not big at all as you can fix it yourself with the good informations. Here you go http://kronometric.org/article/eta/eta_keyless_assy.html Of course you'll have to first remove the date wheel if your movement have one and you're ready to go. I've never worked on 2846s (only 2836s and 2834s) but I've read somewhere here that some of those have hacking function. If your movement was hacking (before you screwed the keyless works of course) then take care of placing the hacking lever in the clutch groove before putting everything back. If you don't remember just have look at the balance side of the movement and check if there is a tiny lever close to the balance wheel ... if not so your movement wasn't hacking andyou can skip that step. Feel free to ask if you need some help EDIT : BTW ... is your movement a 2836 or 2846 ? cause sometimes you write 36 and sometimes 46 Nevertheless 36 or 46, and A or ETA, the link above wil be usefull to fix your keyless works. One usefull thing your sould do, before putting the setting lever on, is to lubricate a little the hole on the movement plate where the setting lever's pin goes ... doing that way you'll be certain that the pin will come back to place after pushing on it to remove the stem. Another usefull thing you could do is to put some grease on the "squared" part of the stem before putting it back on, then turn it both ways while putting it back, so that the square part of the stem can be aligned with the square hole on the wheel
  3. Beautifully watch !!! It may be just me but ... doesn't something look sort of strange with the plexi on side views ? Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  4. You CAN shave down a caseback. I did that on my Daytona and slimmed it down about 2 mm (1.5 at the least). And redoing the brushed part is easily doable with 320 sandpaper. The only problem is you will change the profile of the caseback (increase the diameter of the flat part). Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  5. Na I'll relume it myself but I have to finish a custom vintage diver for a friend before (yesterday I achieved a domed negative gild dial ... will show that beauty somewhere on the forum). BTW ... the hands you sent me are really great .. I've just had to rework the hour wheel and the cannon pinion a little as the hands are 1.50/ 0.90 and the movement specs are 1.60/1.02. At first I wanted to enlarge the hand holes but it proved to be easier to sand the hour wheel to 1.50 and the cannon pinion to 0.90. Of course I took some pics along the work and I'll post everything when the build is finished.
  6. Better and better M !!! Congrats [emoji6] Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  7. Hi M ... I would say clone I'd be happy if I could get one [emoji39] GEN CLONE Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  8. Another way is to build a custom dial spacer, same diameter than the BP dial so larger than the new dial. That's what I did for my A/6538 build ... dial was 26mm and smaller than the inside diameter of the rehaut (26.3mm) and it worked perfectly. If you look closely @8:00 on the pic below you can see the tiny gap between the dial and the rehaut ... I've been really happy to achieve that.
  9. It depends ... which movement is used in that watch ? Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  10. You could have kept the lug-holes and build an early 16800 ... Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  11. I will ask but the seller doesn't even know how to open a watch so ... BTW ... the rehaut on my A/6538 seems sometimes woky, a proof that crystals can create distortion because I KNOW that my rehaut is 90 degrees (custom made on a professional lathe). Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  12. Hum ... sorry but no [emoji6] After reading what automatico an Sogeha said about that model and knowing that it's sold about 1/2 the price ... I can't give a link because I'll buy it. Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk Thanks !!! really informative and helpfully. It seems that at $90 it's a steak ... about 1/2 the price. That baby's coming to me [emoji16] Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk Thanks !!! Good news, as I already have a spare WSO 5413 bezel assembly [emoji16] Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  13. Hi guys, I've been thinking about building a 5513 those days as I have a gilt 5513 Serpico Y Laino decal dial that's waiting in my drawer. I prefer too put time than money in that build so I'm searching for a cheap start case. I would like to know what you think about Tiger Concept 5513 V2 as I can get one for $90 shipped with a Miyota 8215 inside. My questions are : 1 - is the bezel on those watches easily removable (even if not Gen soecs) or not ? 2 - which size is the dial opening on those cases Here are some pics of the watch I'm offered. The lugs are a little pointy but I can rework them and the CGs too and I can redrill the lugs so that they take 2mm bars. The worst part is the plexi IMO but I have some waiting in my drawers too. So please tell me what you think about that watch. Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  14. Thanks ... will do that. Do you work from the upside or downside of the hands ? About my A/6538 ... YES it needs better hands [emoji39] and thanks for the infos about JK and Raffles (which handset did you order from JK ?). I first wanted to be certain I could achieve that crazy build (so much work and custom parts ... almost everything) before trying to source a perfect handset. Now I will upgrade it with an ETA movement (still a 2813 inside) and better hands ... while also enjoying it on my wrist just as it is. Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  15. Wonderfull job @jimcon11 ... I will try your method this week-end on my 6429 Commando hands I recently found an almost proper handset after searching for one year, right overall dimensions but with a lume plot too thin and too much metal on the sides So you definitely save me and my handset will be perfect ... supposing I can do the same modd you did without ruining those hands.
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