riffram

21J movement--like ETA's--has an overlay with correct fonts glued over the datewheel. and if the glue loosens in a spot or two, the xhange can hang up. Fix is to take the dial off and reglue the overlay--or just not worry about it. It may loosen up and get better with use. Riff

Actually, I've done three dial and movement swaps before, and replaced hands--rep to gen omega and rep to better rep but with better lume--with no problems--just haven't had to remove an inner day wheel, and couldn't see the clip on the OFRei photo. Looks easy, obviously. and my SSD won't self wind--even though the gears in the winding deck are moving fine in both directions, and there is no apparant problem--and the watch works fine if wound by hand--I have decided that I'd rather do a swap myself than send it off for a repair for about the same (or more) cost once you include shipping. Also, the crown guards, pearl and bezel have been modded and replaced so well on this that I want to keep using them.

Great--I'll get the 2836--but I'm not sure how I can reach the clip to unfasten and remove the large day wheel inside the date wheel. (I'm going to leave the date wheel on, and just glue the SSD overlay onto it). I thought that just lifted off, once the dial is off--any trick to removing it?? Actually--can I just leave the day wheel on--since it's covered--or will it cause problems?? Riff

I need to put a new ETA in a SSD--the one it came with is a 2836-2-- Can I put in a 2824-2 in its place? The 2836 sold at OFrei is a day and date movement, and the 2824 is a date only that looks more correct--most dimentions are the same, but height on the 2836 is half a mm or so thicker, and I wonder if that would mess up where the crown inserts? I can't find a source for a 2836 with a date wheel only-- please give me insight on what I need to get-and were to find it. Riff

can't seem to find Clark's-- the only hands I find on ebay are vintage--also--any eta hands on reps have lume that's close enough for me--more info??

Help--I bought--and finally got--a nice SSD missing a minute hand. I thought the 21J minute hand I had on hand was the same spindle diameter as the ETA, but not so--it's a much larger hole. So--I need an ETA minute hand for a SD or a Sub (they are the same--or plenty close enough) Anyone have an extra, or know where or how I could get one? Thanks Riff

Here is my attempt to rework the cg's on a beginmariner. Have I trimmed enough?? Also, this watch has rather bold font on the dates--is this worth changing out--and if so, is this something someone on thius board does? (I've changed a dial and hands, but dont think I'd want to try to swap a date wheel.) Not sure where to source one either. On the positive side, the 21J movement in this watch is very solid and smooth--feels the best on resetting of any 21J I've had, by far. Bracelet is good, now that I've made it smooth. I will replace the pearl (which ins't bad as-is) and insert--but I'd like some input on the font first. Thanks,

Actually, I see that Andrew still has the 21J version of both the 42 and 45 watches. I haven't bought one yet, because my research showed a bit more difference between the 21J and ETA models than I had hoped for, and I just decided to wait. I do think the 21j option is a bargain on this watch, even if it's not absolutely first rate.

Gift from my brother-in-law, who bought it in Shanghai--for about US $20. Very elegant looking--photos are poor--and the "croc" band is very thick and looks great. My wife thinks it's outstanding, and as a formal watch, I'd say it is. Hands are very fine, and runs accurately and smoothly. See-through back, no less. subdials keep day/date (I won't bother with that) and has duplicate seconds at 6, with a rotating logo that's kind of cool.

Check this out--priced as a rep (he has 17 more) and seller admits a Japanese movement, but claims this is the one "sold in stores", and photo looks loke a gen Omega to me. Questions don't go through. Odd. Here's the ebay link: Visit My Website

I suspect the dial will only fit--at least easily and with the correct match up on the date wheel--on the ETA. You might well be able to make it work though, but i'd say it costs enough that I wouldn't put it on a non-ETA version. The hands ore the wrong size to correctly fit the pin on any non-ETA spec movement. The aftermarket bezel fits the ETA and 21J versions fine (but the insert on the 21J is already pretty good--the onw on the ETA had numbers that are too puffy looking, to me at least. Mine is the ETA case and crystal, which fit the gen parts fine. The case on the 21J may well be OK, but I don't know. The band and crystal on the ETA watch are good, at least good enough for me. Good luck.

Here is my effort--an ETA version, that I put a gen dial and gen hands on, then a better bezel insert from ebay. I couldnt find any version "as is" that was satisfactory. The 21j version from Andrew isn't bad, but the dial markers are too big and too green, and the hands have a bit of a coarse appearance. Alao, only the ETA will fit gen hands. Here is my result:

Just got a Super SD from Andrew. I'm not a Rolex guy, but the hype on this made it irresistable. My reaction is that the "weak" points on this watch are not bad enough to bother me--my pearl looks pretty OK, and I'm not bothered by the crown guards. Watch is running great, and the size is nice--a bit smaller than I thought, and feels good. But--I have no crown etched on the crystal--and yes this is the "Super," (even had the amusing AAA sticker on it). Anyone else get one with no crown at 6 PM??? Actually, I'm not sure this is not better, particularly that an overly visible crown. ---------------------- Corretion--just used magnifying glass and sunlight, and I do see a super subtile crown--more like a watermark tham what I've seen on Daytonas. Anyway, it's all good, as they say.

Not exactly what you're asking, but I bought several 21J Tag and Rolex items in Saigon this summer for US $21 to $40, depending on complexity. Also got very nice quartz Cartier and Rado items for my spouse. All look good, and are running well. Some I passed on were not so good. These reps are about the quality that go for about $100 when purchased from the dealers. It was fun to poor over a huge selection at retail in Viet Nam, but we no doubt do much better in selection and consistent quality with the reliable dealers on the board, at only a bit more cost.

Search button tells me nothing, but I have to believe some of us have bought this--I'm looking at Andrew's $118 version--to save a few bucks on a watch I'll only wear very occasionally. I'm fine with the 21J movement--but how good or bad is the overall look/quality of the watch itself compared with the 4th gen version? Obviously, it's not as good, but what are the main differences? I'll appeciate your input. If I get some encouragment, I'll get this. Otherwise, I guess I'll take the safe route and but the 4th gen--but, for only occasional use, might this 21J be just right?

Don't think you're discribing a slipping hand--when a second's hand is loose, it doesn't behave like that. Your problem is likely internal to the movement--but not a hard fix for a watchsmith. Still, as long as you just let the chrons run, as I do, it won't matter a bit.

I'd like to find one in the bay area too, San Fran or Oakland area would be good.

A classic, and I just added gen dial and hands all by myself, so I am not sharing.

Here you go--on the right is my ETA now featuring gen face and gen hands, which I istalled this week--so you can use that as a reference. The origional rep hands are well made, but just as short as they look in the dealer photos. Still, the watch is nice and very solid--runs great. On the right is a 21J purchased form Andrew recently for $108--Hands are virtually right on in length, face is pretty good, although markers are more green in daylight than the gen, and markets are--as you can see here--a bit too large, especially at 12. here is a better shot of the ETA, so you can really see the correct hands and face.

Or it seemed big to me. Alligned the bezel, and them installed gen face and gen hands on this ETA version--where the origional hands were quite short. Actually, the rep dial was darn close, but a the dial markers looked a bit too greenish in daylignt, and anyway, now the lume has gone from good to exceptional. Gen dial is a perfect fit (except dial feet are too short to reach the holding levers on the ETA movement (the rep dial had long feet and was fitted to those holders expertly--it was really well assembled), but the gen dial feet fit into the foot slots perfectly, so no issue there. Date window is right on. Rodico, toothpicks and post-its were all put to good use--the post-it approach to delivering the seconds hand to the post for the setting tool was a key for me--and having the right hand seting and removal tools, of course. Thanks for all the info on this board. My result:

A link would be a good help, since I'm lazy, and not sure what model you meam. But I have the Black sword hands SMP Andrew and Josh sell at that same price, and think when I looked at the Silex version of that watch a couple of monthe ago, it had a white backgroundwith black number appearing through the date window, which was incorrect for that watch--the sword hands black SMP. Of course, if you are looking at the blue face, skeleton hands version, you can disregard this completely (but I still wouldn't assume they have the same sources, or it's the same watch. There are lots of different makers on these. However, different sources may just mean diferent strengths/weaknesses--and you may like both versions about as well for different reasons, depending on what appeals to you. Look at the pictures very critically).

---------------- I couldn't find it. I eventually bought the ETA version from Josh and am now buying gen hands and face to install, which should be the best, I guess, but expensive. I also bought the $108 21J version Andrew sells, and that is an excellent bargain version, with good lume, correct hand length and a/r on crystal. Also--the pringing/numbe size on the bezel of the $108 version is more accurate. The movement feels very solid so far, and has been very accurate. I've been wearing it for 2 weeks while deciding what to do on the ETA, and getting the info/confidence to install the hands/dial myself (which I'm going to do). good luck--and let me know what you find-- Riff

Not to hijack this thread, but does anyone else have problems on SMP bracelets with the first link/wing piece that is next to the buckle (and suppposed to be held in by side pressure from the clasp) popping out of place--and not going back unless you push/snap it back by hand--very annoying. I have put some thin cardboard in the clip mechanism, which seems to help hold the wing peice tighter, but it doesn't solve the problem. Also--is there a source on speedmaster-style bracelets with half links, since the size is always in between for me, and with such a heave piece, It is annoying. Thanks.

I have a new ETA black SMP sword hands I really like, and I'm going to purchase gen hands and get them installed--but it looks to me like a coat of anti-reflective would really benefit this watch. Also, I have a 21J version of this watch which has the same big, heavy crystal, but does seem to have A/R, and it makes a significant diference. I've searched, and can't tell if this is something a local watchmaker can do, or modders here, on a single watch basis, nor do I have any idea what it costs. Alternatively, is the gen crystal a fit on this ETA version--because those are availible at $156 or so. Anyone done this? Thanks.