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Timelord last won the day on February 25

Timelord had the most liked content!

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About Timelord

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    This just keeps on getting better...

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    Falkland Islands

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    Timepieces both genuine and reps, trivia, 1960's memoribilia,

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  1. Yes exactly what I was referring to! What do those codes mean on the white label? How do you know it is a 25 J or 17 J without opening the packet? A local here has the following codes RO3648852 on some of his 2836-2 followed by 8.11 and 1P! How can one tell what type of movement is in it without opening it? I cant make him an offer as I don't know what is inside it
  2. Yes All good! For a moment I thought I was reading a typical reply one would normally see on the. watchuseek forum Yep, more like a miracle maker! Thank goodness!
  3. Ehhhh?... What language are you used to talking in? What is this 20 years time bull€+^&.? Are you reading the right post??
  4. Great information ! Thanks ! The 8 less jewels in the 17 jewel mechanism would mean that there are less jewels in the auto wind assembly! I never really noticed. I too prefer the 25 J over the 17 J version, but if buying new sealed from the packet it is usually impossible to tell as they never say how many jewels are in the mechanisms!
  5. How many of you ever came across to a sealed eta packet containing a new 2836-2 but no other information whether it is the 17 jewel or the 25 jewel version of it ? Is there a code on the packet that would give his information? The best would be to open them but then it is too late if it is the wrong one! Would the 17 jewel version be less inferior to the 25 jewel one due to less jewel count?
  6. That is very eloquent and useful! Thanks is the best word I can find! One thing puzzles me is that a stepped crystal as with the genuine crystals must have some kind of bezel or retaining ring to hold them in place!! Unless mine was replaced with a different type and held by sealant which makes sens as to why I lost it in the first place I take your advice on the detergent method to clean as best as possible under the bezel. I tried he razor blade but just scratched the top side instead! An absolute pain to come off! Would yours be for the f series or M series?
  7. I recently pulled out my prized noobmariner F520117 to wear as I like to rotate my watches every now & then. Upon returning home I noticed my crystal was missing!! Luckily I was wearing a short sleeve polo shirt and the hands were intact!, I looked all over and no sign of it! I tried the crystals from some of my silix cases and cartel cases but they all seem to be wrong size! Has anyone ever replaced one and if so, where is it possible to source one? also I tried to remove the bezel to clean any grime underneath it with no luck! How does one go about this? am having a bad day! Thanks for any feedback!
  8. Yes, that is exactly what I meant!!!!. Yet, I would still be hesitant of departing with the 4-5 digit asking prices that not just milsubs demand but most vintage rolex models in general. I believe Automatico (correct me if I am wrong! ) hit the nail right on the head regarding this topic many moons ago!!! My main concern is; with all the state of the art evolving technology and with how cloning is becoming a closely perfected science, so too is cloning of most technological pieces!!!. I wonder how much of these collectible items which come with high prices are truly what they claim to be and how much of it's content is truly original ( if any) and how much is not? Just yesterday, I was lurking on the http://www.vintagerolexforum.com sales section and was quite shocked with how an honest seller was skinned on a White gold day date which sent me in a tail spin!!!!!. check this out ; https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/vintagerolexforum/fs-rolex-1803-white-gold-with-long-story-still-ava-t251327.html?sid=faa7f728084cd687de8f02865933f22a In the days when I owned genuine rolex models, I had a few of these 1803 Day dates myself and makes me wonder if any of mine were in this category. Only because I regret selling all of mine to make way for health expenses I would still like to own just one genuine one for old times sake, if the opportunity was feasible !! I would never have been able to tell what was the giveaway in the above white gold model referenced in the sales section. Yet with all the time I have been here and learnt a lot from you guys ( most grateful to say the least !!!) I would still be burnt if I went along with that transaction unless the seller had not been transparent in his declaration. Until wiser, I stick to replicas regardless of how much the purists see me as a fake!!
  9. I know this subject has been raised countless times; both on this forum, the VRF forum and other areas of discussion!! I recently got into a discussion when I was asked by my bank manager if my milsub replica was real or not and obviously with the type of car I drive and house I live in, anyone that knows more about these rare pieces would know it isn't, regardless if it was real or not ( as one could have inherited it from the original owner for example) My reply was that I had better things to do with my money. He went on to say that if he won the lottery it would be the first item he would buy!!! But if money was not an option and you had the possibility to buy one, would you at the 5 digit premiums they ask on today's market? Silly question - maybe? but what are your thoughts!! Just curious!!
  10. Good question! i can only share with you my experiences I had with the 2836-2 which is basically the one which has the day wheel in addition to the date wheel with some small other differences. Let me say that I have purchased from three different sellers where they ranged between 60 and 100 dollars US. I did not find any difference in terms of quality . In fact, one seller that sold between the 2 different high and low price ranges happened to be the same seller (with different identities) as I received the same quality movement from the same name and address but at different prices! In my opinion, all I can say is that if you are able to service your own movement, then buy a pre owned one for circa US60 and you should be ok. With the clones I had all sorts of problems especially with the keyless works not working well and upon setting the yoke, then positioning the parts, they just kept falling out of place where I even had the cover plate and yoke snapping when trying to set them into place. Upon replacing them from a genuine, they did not mesh and there was so much stretch. On the 100 dollar movement, when I removed the screw for the cover plate spring , the head of the screw broke in half. On my cheaper clone, the automatic assembly seemed to be welded onto the main part of the watch as the screws just would not unscrew!! I wanted to service it myself but instead I stripped the heads of the the screws and believe me I have pulled apart well over a dozen of them without problems. The other clone, just stopped every 3 hours and when I messaged the seller about it, his reply was that I should oil the movement. In other words, it needed a service which was not mentioned in his description! In the end, it use have costed me the same as getting a genuine new one without tags.. Two of the three were almost dry without lubrication. This is just my opinion according to my experiences. As the Americans say, "Strike 3 and your out"!!. Hope this helps you have a better experience with your clones!
  11. So does your idea! A brass spacer sounds quite solid and you can use whatever cement you wish as you would be adhering metal upon metal, whereas plastic has very limited choices of appropriate glues. I opted for the plastic spacer purely because it sits rigidly as part of the movement and once the dial is adhered, it stays firm to be worked on without the chances of it moving. The plastic spacer also has holes for dial feet and I would cement another pair of dal feet onto dial as extra backup to a total of 4 which includes ones that sit in the movement! My question is your brass spacer would be held by bent case clamps onto the movement to the dial while you are working on it?
  12. I hope not to hijack this post but since the issue of the OP has been resolved, I believe this is a very interesting question which I haven't any recollection on this forum since I first became a member. my understanding is that a 2834-2 can be reconfigured into a 2836-2 by removing plastic ring and day wheel,. I cannot see how the inverse operation in creating a 2834-2 from a 2836-2 is not possible unless someone can spare some information here! Suppose you have a 2834-2 and a dial without feet, gluing a dial directly onto one of these plastic rings must not interfere with the dial window diameter of your case. Supposing you have a 28.5 mm dial and the widest diameter of your dial window is 29mm, the plastic spacer must allow some clearance between the dial thickness and the plastic ring so that the plastic ring does not heave the dial from directly sitting on the shoulders of the dial window seat (as plastic ring diameter is 29.4mm). This may run inti to problems with the stem alignment! If your dial is exactly 29.4mm and you have the right diameter dial window in your case, then you may have nailed it well! Just be cautious!
  13. Now that is a very clever suggestion! I was unaware of the eta 2834-2 having that plastic ring as all those xx34-2 movements that I had all were without the day ring! I guess that the plastic ring could also serve as a substitute for the brass raffles ring when they are not readily available! Not sure if it would fit in a submariner case made for a 2836-2?
  14. It is only a matter of time if one isn't out there just yet. It all comes down to cost and profit. $600 is still a good price for what t actually is and making a knock off that is cheaper is really the issue. Most items that are made in Europe would probably already use parts made in China and just assembled there! Speaking of coffee, I grew up in a neighbourhood consisting mostly of Neapolitan families or from around those regions! One family that owned a cafe had one of those machines when they were still considered a novelty. One thing I noticed was that Gennaro the owner of the cafe never drank coffee from it whenever we visited them as friends at the back of the cafe! I always saw that he would use the old aluminium/ stainless steel perculator that was octahedral in shape to make his own coffee to drink. I questioned him about it and his response was that coffee tasted better from the percolator and the espresso machine was meant to serve as a substitute for big commercial turnover, otherwise you would be washing the percolator most of he day and a cup of coffee would cost 5 times more because of the time involved. He then proved it to me and made me a cup from both of them using the same ground coffee and just as a flower that blossoms in spring, he was 100% correct,. He made me guess which was which! BTW, as this forum is about watches, I might add that he wore an omega Seamaster from the 1950's
  15. All I can say is that this has been a great thread!! I could not add anything close to what others haven't already done! Thoroughly enjoyed it as it as been entertaining as well as educational as most threads are on this forum. This filled a large gap of ignorance in my understanding of this particular build., almost enticing me to take up one of these projects myself! As for winter, being a good title for this post, it is one of the cosiest times of the year to fulfil indoor activities such as these ones, which otherwise would always be delayed! Thanks for sharing and enjoy to good Health!
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