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Timelord last won the day on June 19 2020

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About Timelord

  • Birthday 01/26/1965

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    Falkland Islands

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    Timepieces both genuine and reps, trivia, 1960's memoribilia,

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  1. Thanks guys! That was very helpful as I could have damaged my mid case if I had bought a replica case back! Thanks Ben for the link! I also found a couple more ! Thanks for clarifying! seems like your case was galled where the threads cold weld which is a typical property prone for metals like stainless steel,titanium, platinum and worst of them is aluminium! if the threads got stripped, it is surprising that it screwed down at all at any stage of closing as there would be little left on the walls of the case! Maybe it wasn’t as bad as you could have chased the threads if you had a tap and die! A spare case back (sacrificial) could be made into a tap& die by cutting a couple of lines at right angles to the thread and hardened by heat ! Thanks for sharing this experience!
  2. Greetings to all! This question may be a long shot but I won’t know if I won’t ask? I have a genuine date just case (reference 1601 made for 1570 mvt) without a back and was wondering if anyone knows if the thread on a replica case is the same pitch and measure so I can buy a replica to close it until I find the genuine? Has anyone ever tried measuring it as I don’t have one to try ? Also, if I recall correctly, the same thread dimensions were also used on the 18k day/date presidential as were on the SS date just! I just can’t find the post on any of the other forums to confirm this? thanks for any input
  3. True!!! natural ageing is more than just scratches and dents!! It is not just mechanical but chemical as well. In particular stainless steel, has an interesting property; that upon the moment it gets scratched, it begins to develop a passive layer where it heals itself like a wound on your skin. This is due to the oxidation of the chromium layer evening out the appearance. This happens with the appropriate time needed and fast-forwarding this may not allow this passive layer to form in the natural way it would have if exposed to other types of wear such as rubbing against your clothing for example. It would be lovely if we could artificially age wine indistinguishable from 30 or 40 year old vintages!!! Beaten up and put through a box of nuts and bolts etc. is a different mechanism of surface deformation. Although some look rather convincing as different processes are used to give this lustre (or lack of), you will always find sections that will highlight that it might indicate abuse instead of normal wear, especially on the back section as it gets a uniform sort of wear with natural ageing. As said earlier, it is what fools the fool!!! I had a 1978 Seiko which was given to me as gift from an aunt and it went through normal wear and tear especially when I wore it in high school (with lots of sports activity) and at University. The visible section of the watch including the crystal showed fairly even wear but the back part of it especially under the lugs was intact. I foolishly polished it when I put it away but natural anything is unique!!!
  4. Greetings, I a not sure if this is the right section to post this, but I am doing my first sterile Pam111 build with a sterile dial as no trusted dealer I know is able to get me the replica since the raids! Therefore I purchased a generic case on eBay and a 6497 to fit the case! Upon assembling it, I noticed that the interior thread on the crown is way too wide than the 0.9mm tap threaded stem on the movement! Does anyone know or have come across a similar situation and if so, what adapter would one use to attach crown onto the movement thread! I do know that some thread extenders come with different end measures for different crown and stem thickness! Any input much appreciated with thanks! 🙂
  5. Has there been any updates regarding to factories that were raided and if any have reopened or are to reopen soon? I am just hanging out to place an order but don’t know which direction to go☁️☂️☔️⛈🌤
  6. I agree! I visit often, but don’t post as frequent as before, - not because I have lost Interest (on the contrary ,my interest is as strong as ever) but there is very little movement in this hobby since the parts policy has become as bad as the genuine parts policy! Most of us here are quite knowledgeable and like to experiment with our builds within our own limits of skills and then share & seek the services of the more skilled members of this forum depending on our desires. In a way it feels as though this era of the rep game has been done by design to eradicate this hobby of replicas as nothing else seemed to have worked in removing the rep game from the attraction many of us have been able to enjoy! Therefore prices of replicas keeps getting higher and most of us that have been here in the earlier years have been more advantaged in comparison to newcomers facing a tougher challenge!
  7. This is going t impact some of our trusted dealers too! Hopefully, what has happened is just a storm in a teacup! By the way, who are our remaining trusted dealers? I just had a look at the introductory post written many moons ago for new comers and most of those dealer sites may need updating! So many greats of this hobby have also vanished like TC, Paul, The Zigmeister and Jackjo to mention a few😒. The world is a sadder place🤧
  8. Very valid points!! i myself had these issues in the past! I noticed that if the movement is not held firmly by case ring screwed in properly)I seem to have issues where the stem does not always seem to pull out into the right position! You have lateral play and this causes stretch on your keyless works! When you cut the stem, do you measure it with case ring tightly fixed or with the dial just in position of dial seat where stem is just slightly longer pushing against the case? I have had this problem also if the stems are generics or faulty! Sometimes it is also the keys works that have some slack! At the moment I have 3 mvts with keyless works problems and unless you replace the whole keyless works they don’t always mesh up by buying individual parts I have also experienced some of the issues you mention when the movement is not right for the case! Ie fitting an eta 2824-2 into a case made for the eta 2836-2. I assume you are referring to the eta 2836-2 you are having these issues! I find the correct case clamps also play an astronomical difference, as ones that come with the case from factory seem to be dead right ! Making your own or trying to file down the right size is either a hit or a miss! I struggle with case clamps in getting them right! Hope this gives some feel for what I have noticed! good luck!
  9. This one is a hard call from just these pictures! Bracelet is no doubt a replica, even if one were to contemplate white gold as this type of bracelet seems to have the design of a later model! The Helvetia hallmark as stamped here was replaced by the St. Bernard dog head on this type of bracelet! So that rules out the bracelet for me! The watch itself may tell another story as one striking feature on the exploded image of the movement shows the cap jewel spring exactly the same as the Zenith eta 2832 that I once owned! The picture of the collette wheel which is covered bythe rotor would nail it for me to rule it either a clone eta or the modified 2824-2 by Rolex Tudor themselves!
  10. Gentlemen, thanks for your input! my failure is towards the end of the last turn while feeding in the mainspring! Just as I am turning the last part that latches onto the arbor,it gets a sharp bend and breaks!! Maybe it is that I am not putting enough pressure on the initial turns that makes it hard for that last loop to go in? Or maybe arthritis in fingers compounded by carpel tunnel or even lack of skills! Thanks for your support!
  11. Well, I was in two minds whether to vent here about something that I have always been unsuccessful in my horological journey! I have over the years managed to pull apart and put together many watch movements from most of what I have learnt here and from the good will of other members volunteering their knowledge and patience! During any of my services , I have only been successful in removing a mainspring and only have been able to put it back in the barrel with the plunger tool that is specifically made for the eta 2824 which I bought o eBay many moons ago! Cheap thing but has worked so far! My embarrassment comes from the fact that I have never been successful in putting a mainspring In the barrel back by hand! 😔 on two occasions I have come close to the end and the spring just broke just before the last wind where the arbor sits! Maybe I have been winding them in the wrong direction! Maybe I am not up to it! I have even seen the already coiled up in a round steel holder which I believe is just pressed into the barrel by hand! This also makes me wonder I how to line them up straight and correctly pressing them in? I have two questions : 1. Is the one sold in the holder just pressed in and if so , are there any traps one needs too avoid from the spring flying out into my face? 2. How do you tell the direction of the mainspring before beginning the wind by looking at the shape of the spring? thanks for any advice!
  12. Gentlemen I would firstly like to express again my thanks for your input towards my problem !!! I spent the last 2 weeks pulling the whole thing apart and re serviced the mechanism myself, after inspecting every single part . it turns out that the 3rd wheel pivot was worn and was causing side shake. It had enough power to get the pallet moving but then recoiled upon losing energy. At first I thought it was the mainspring that was broken or perhaps even the reverser wheels not transmitting energy to the mainspring, hence not forwarding enough power to the motion works. Out of curiosity I tried a generic third wheel and it works great!!!! Maybe I was lucky with a generic part for a change.. Time will tell,!!!! excuse the pun!! It is now ticking well. In all my years of tinkering, I have never had this issue. This is what makes this hobby an art, a science and a journey of passion, which is truly rewarding beyond any other!!!!!
  13. Thanks for your reply! I disassembled the keyless works to clean them again too so that I also put enough lubrication in the joining parts! in fact this is my only mvt that has flawless keyless works! All my other 28xx series have faulty/worn keyless works. No matter how many times i reposition the parts, they always go out of place after a couple of uses as stem also pops out and Setting lever needs to be pushed in from the side! I was once recommended that lithium white grease is better for hardwearing parts! going back to the movt stopping, my only other theory workdays be a barrel issue with stem connection as there could be some wear around that area??
  14. I just assembled (not the 1st) 2836-2 upon replacing a part ( correct part ) after a thorough clean and oiling. It kicked start brilliantly !!!!!🙂 Weird part is that upon setting the time with the winding stem, caused the balance wheel to stop.~~🤢 My first thought was that the hack lever may have got dislodged, so I removed the barrel bridge to see if this were the case!!!!. No ~ ~ all good with everything in it's right place!!! So I tried to re- set time again & same thing happened!!!🙄 Removed the barrel bridge off again to remove the hack lever (which looks like the numeral "7") hoping it may have resolved the problem! Again NO go!!!!! 🙄😒 Now for all of you with more experience in watchmaking, is there any connection between the stem positions (or keyless works components) upon setting the time and the train wheel motion works or even the balance???? I cannot see any real correlation apart from the hack lever, unless there is something that I do not know about how the movement components network together. It seems very strange that even pulling out the stem and pushing it back in can cause the watch to stop (even upon removing the hack lever) Any thoughts, comments criticisms or insults would be welcome for me to resolve this issue??? Thanks again guys!!!!🙂
  15. Good point to investigate before purchasing !!!! I myself discovered a while back that apart from the obvious differences between the 28xx ( : | xx := 24 , the 34 v 36 ) is that the hour wheel and seconds wheel come in different heights!! However the other parts in which the escape wheel as catalogued by eta packaging is only one according to the following website; https://evergreenparts.de/spare-parts-for-ETA-2824-2 quotes also that the part number # ETA 2801 #705 (176027) is interchangeable with 2801-2 2804-2 2824-2 2834-2 2836-2
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