Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About mzinski

  • Rank
    I'm new. Be nice!

Previous Fields

  • Country
    United States

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. mzinski

    JKF 1680 Red Dial Sub Relume

    Thank you for the compliments! It’s my first dial (if you don’t count the many practice print dials a did in advance of it). Hopefully it’s not just beginners luck - I am still very much a novice learning as I go. I posted in hopes to share my learning process and resources in a consolidated location. I would offer one more thing, the mix is critical. I noticed if the lume is too thin, it spreads uncontrollably. If it is too thick, you don’t get liquid tension to create a droplet but rather clumpy texture. I found it was about getting the right amount of that mix onto the oiler, placing it in the center of the marker, and gently spiraling out to the edges. At that point, it’s all about releasing the droplet and letting the surface tension take over, forming the nice pillow-like shape. I’m sure I’ll get thrown thru a loupe (hahaha) when I try to work on reluming my gen 1940’s Wittnauer. The lume job on this has bothered me since I got it like a decade ago. I’ll certainly have to practice up to this one! I’ll post the results in triumph or shame in a month or two
  2. I’m thoroughly enjoying the dial on this JKF 1680 Red Dial Sub - the crown, font, and alignments are all close enough to pass, particularly on the wrist. But what’s been bothering me is the lume. It’s very, very flat. I decided to learn how to relume a dial and hands. I needed a handful of things to get it done: Tutorial on luming: http://forums.watchuseek.com/f6/watch-luminizing-tutorial-673983.html Lume: www.noctilumina.com I contacted Scott at Noctilume for recommendations on mixing a high-glow, “vintage” lume. He was very helpful! Recommended I mix his G15F with AG40F to get a light-yellow appearance but high-glow output. I ended up buying my binder, pigment, oilers, and mixing bowl from him. Tools: - Set of Oilers (fine and medium used most) - Ceramic mixing bowl - Ag40F pigment - G15F pigment - Binder 3 - 3x Loupe - Paint Thinner - Xacto Knife Practice: I used images of 1680 dials, printed and lacquered (to scale) as practice runs. This worked very well for me. I got used to working under the loupe, mixing, and applying lume. In the end I think it turned out quite nice. Clean edges, nice pillowing, and good color consistency. After it cures for 72hrs I’ll reassemble and get back to wearing this. Thanks for looking!
  3. mzinski

    Yukiwatch Experience

    Is there a password or secret email to contact Yukiwatch? I submitted an order with them about 2-weeks ago now and no word in return. I've followed up with emails and tried private messaging them on the forum - nada. Any help, pointers, or ideas people could offer? Thanks!
  4. mzinski

    ETA keyless tutorial

    This is a great post and tutorial! Any chance the pictures can be re-linked or re-posted? They appear as broken JPG files when I view this.
  5. mzinski

    Yukiwatch Experience

    What is peoples' experience with ordering dials + hands from Yukiwatch (http://www.yukiwatch.net/)? I've submitted an order a few days ago, received confirmation that the order was in the cue, but I haven't received anything about payment. I'm asking the collective about what to expect? After the quick orders from TrustyTime and PerfectClones as well as quick responses to questions submitted to Phong, Mary, etc, I expected this would be a similar experience.
  6. mzinski

    Replica Reliability

    I ended up ordering a BP Factory 1680 Red Dial and a Cartel 1675. Looking forward to the 1675 build but I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the BP 1680. What TD is selling MBK/MBW?
  7. mzinski

    Replica Reliability

    Thanks for the reply! The last time I said, “relax, it’s no big deal” I ended up with two kids and a wife... But in all seriousness I’m trying to avoid throwing a couple hundred bucks at something that’ll die in 6 months. I presently have two watches in rotation: - A Junghans Max Bill Mechanical with leather strap for the office and dressing up. - A 1940s Wittnauer Military mechanical with nylon bond strap, SS casing, 15j Swiss movement (services once in 10 years), and never properly sealed for knocking around. Both serve me well but I’m looking for something to replace the Wittnauer as my rough-house watch. It’ll get knocked around with the kids and most definitely wet - whether that be from the 8 months of rain here or plunging my hand in the bathtub to pop a kid out. I like the aesthetic of the Subs. I like the concept of a durable, well-built watch. I somehow really like the idea of getting a replica for 20x less that will serve me as well (or better since I didn’t shell out 20x more). Unfortunately the homages always seem to get something wrong with the aesthetics. They don’t ever seem to look quite as nice. If Reg gets back to me I’ll probably take the plunge and try one out.
  8. mzinski

    Replica Reliability

    Hello, new to the replica marketplace but have been reading as much as possible. I’ve noticed no one seems to be talking about two things I’d like to know more about: reliability and construction of all the parts of a replica. (Please post links of discussion that exist that I haven’t found yet) First, reliability. What should ones expectation be for these replicas? For instance, a Regmariner from Narikaa is in the same price range as an Invicta 9937 ProDiver. Can one assume they will perform similarly over time? At this price range, what is expected to fail after 1 yr, 5 yrs, or even 10 years (if anything)? Comparing the next price level up, how will a Noobmariner V7 perform in comparison to, say, a Steinhart Ocean One? Asked a different way, when buying a replica, are you buying a lesser watch with better aesthetics/branding than a name brand at that price point? Or are you buying a similar quality? Second, can anyone speak to the construction of replicas as a whole? Everyone points out the bezel, band, crystal, and movement but what about: - Dial material - Hand material - Pearl material - Marker material - Luminescent paint type - Rubber gasket material - Type of screws holding the band together - Type of spring bar - And how are these things attached (Elmer’s glue, solder, etc) I get it, it’s a replica marketplace - there is no QC. But there is plenty of opportunity for QC by those buying the watches. Add that extra layer of construction information and follow up on how your watch is holding up after some number of years. Thanks in advance for your thoughts and insights.