indept

Thanks for the extensive reply! Indeed the GS and Sternkreuz crystals are usually a perfect fit, as well as ST and Clarks. Unfortunately, all of the Tropic 12/5500 crystals from abovementioned manufactures have the beveled edge. I've checked the ST RC 12, and it has the sharp edge and high wall as well. It seems that the manufacturers all focus on the shape of the later replacement crystals, which indeed have the sharp/beveled edge. I will try to find the blue frame labled 'watch parts' one which you mentioned, and hope this will be a good fit. In the mean time, maybe someone could confirm the shape of the PA 459-46 as I haven't seen it in real life or pictured without the packaging.

I'm looking to buy a (replacement) crystal for my Rolex 5500 Explorer build with gen 5500 case. I've read multiple threads and forums, but can't seem to find the definitive answer on which crystal I should use. It's difficult to tell the exact shape and size, as I'm looking for the vintage domed version with rounded edges. There are several options/possibilites available: Clarks Tropic 12 (has the sharp/beveled edges) GS PA 459-37 GS PA 459-37A GS PA 459-46 There are also some other Tropic 12's available on Ebay, but they seem to be a hit and miss when it comes to shape and size. What do you think would be the best option?

For now I will put the build on hold though, until I receive the H4 CP kit. I hope this will resolve the issue.

I double checked, and you're indeed correct. How stupid...

When I was starting to line everything up today for the build, and decided to go with the H4 CP option, I all of a sudden noticed that the dial is actually rather small compared to what I'm used to (28mm). In fact, the dial measures 27mm. This seems pretty odd to me, as I have never seen a 27mm pie-pan dial before, nor any Rolex watch with a 27mm pie-pan dial. Could someone enlighthen me to which this type of Rolex watch the dial might belong?

Thanks for your quick reply! Great tip about the stem/tube alignment. That's definitely something to take into consideration when using this type of dial. I've indeed read that when using a pie-pan dial it possibly means that I have to change to an H4 cannon pinion. As I'm quite new to watch building, I was hoping that the long post hands would provide enough clearance on its own. Replacing the cannon pinions might still be quite a challenge for me. I know it can be done (i.e. using a pie-pan dial with a ETA 2836-2 clone movement, 16200 Raffles case and Raffles hands) as is demonstrated in the picture below (not my picture) and explained by the builder in the Reddit post in the link in my opening post. The builder of this watch is using a Seagull 2836 clone movement, but he isn't saying anything about changing the cannon pinions. He does say that "I had to hand fit the hands and the hand hole at the center of the dial to get everything to go together/fit and work." But I don't really know what he means by that exactly. I was hoping this step would be some minor adjustment or something. Do you perhaps know what he could mean by this, or how he fixed the (possible) clearance issue (it's an older post and he doesn't respond to my messages, so can't ask him directly)? Btw. I do have the open 6 & 9 DWO.

Hi guys, I'm currently working on a Franken 1601 build with a gen Rolex 1601 'pie-pan' dial. These are the specs of the build: ETA 2836-2 clone movement Gen Rolex 1601 'pie-pan' dial Dial spacer ring (Raffles) 16200 DJ case for ETA 2836 movement (from Raffles) DWO 2836 (from Raffles) Silver DJ hands longer post (Raffles) Before I start to put everything together, I have one concern and that is about the clearance of the hands compared to the stick markers on the dial. I have seen several similar builds come by on the forum and elsewhere on the internet, but never with a 'pie-pan' dial. I could find one build with similar specs, but I can't seem to get in touch with the builder: https://www.reddit.com/r/RepTime/comments/gx7w83/just_for_fun_build_1601_dj_mickey/ The builder states that: "I had to hand fit the hands and the hand hole at the center of the dial to get everything to go together/fit and work." But I don't really know what he means by that exactly. Therefore, I was hoping if one of you could help me out, either by confirming that my specs would work or explain what the builder of the Mickey watch actually implies.