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Velasco

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Posts posted by Velasco

  1. I've always used lye (caustic soda), either in drain cleaning products or caustic soda pellets.

    The best IMO is caustic soda in small pellets or flakes, as you have more control of the process since you can use a small amount and check the results. I've also noticed that the better the quality, the more uniform and slow is the fading process.

    Best of luck

  2. Hi Guys,

    I had recently a very interesting discussion with another tritium addict about what makes tritium to age so beatifully on our watches.

    We didn't reach any conclusions, but at least we managed to get some pictures of good old tritium dials...

    Let me introduce:

    - a 5513 (5.7 mill)

    - a 16800 (6.4 mill)

    - a 1675 (1.2 mill)

    496.jpg

    498.jpg

    486.jpg

    489.jpg

    485.jpg

    484.jpg

    491.jpg

    490.jpg

    504.jpg

    503.jpg

    488.jpg

    487.jpg

    493.jpg

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    499.jpg

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    Hope you've enjoyed the pics...

    Cheers

    V.

  3. Thanks very much for the kind words... I have to say I caught the Vintage rollie bug in RWG long time ago... and it's getting worse every day... :whistling:

    The watch came with the Oyster 9315 band... love the idea of having a jubilee on it but the prices are just mad. The "PATETED" extension is one of the few Rolex failures and it's well known amongst collectors.

    I'd like to ask the experts: I thought the hands to be luminova but they are completely dead (no glow at all). Although the dial shows some patina, the hands are still pristine. So I guess they're tritium... Am I right?

    Thanks

    V.

    P.S.: "travesty"... :lol:

  4. A 40-year old watch should look, at least, used. Furthermore, if these beauties were exposed to extreme weather conditions... they should look like Polexpete's 1680. Fantastic work, congratulations Pete.

    BTW, the destruction process continues...

    IMG_1350.jpg

    IMG_1354.jpg

    IMG_1352.jpg

    Cheers-

    V

  5. Nice job V, I think it looks great. I would leave the insert/pearl (or lack thereof) alone, and concentrate more on the case softening. What crown/tube combo are you using?

    JJ

    Thanks JJ

    Yep you're totally right. After seeing the pics... the case looks too new - and edges too sharp.

    I'm using the standard mbw crown/tube.

    V.

  6. Hi all,

    thanks to a fellow member from RWG I've been able to keep modding my 1680.

    It is still a work in progress but the new dial makes a huge difference... :victory:

    IMG_1320.jpg

    IMG_1322.jpg

    IMG_1317.jpg

    Next steps:

    - new insert

    - vintage pearl

    - some case aging

    - vintage overlay...

    ...any suggestions will be much appreciated!

    Thanks for looking.

    V.

  7. Nice! :D

    Is that from the case set you were selling earlier, or is this a whole new project? It looks great!

    Yes, the very same case... In fact this is a subliminal sales post! :rolleyes:

    Could somebody please recommend me where to buy aged-but-cheap aftermarket hands...

    thank you...

  8. It's not a V5. By the shape of the case near the CGs, the dial, and the insert font & cloudy pearl, it's a V3 with the V4/V5 crystal.

    Thanks Gio. I guess the Eurotimez v5 and the cartel v5 are not the same version. Maybe even the version concept does not apply here.

  9. Hi all,

    this is allegedly the "ultimate" version from the cartel. I say allegedly because this is v5. But, correct me if I'm wrong, this v5 is different from Eurotimez v5. Have a look at the (not) beveled window and the pearl.

    Some pics...

    IMG_0919.jpg

    IMG_0901.jpg

    IMG_0903.jpg

    IMG_0916.jpg

    IMG_0917.jpg

    IMG_0902.jpg

    Any comment from the experts would be greatly appreciated!

    V.

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