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  1. A member sent me this link. Any of you Rolex experts ever heard of these crystals? Please chime up. Thanks! http://www.startimesupply.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY_X&Store_Code=1&Category_Code=1D_Rolex_Crystal_Sapp-CY-GMT&Product_Code http://www.startimesupply.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY-30&Store_Code=1&Category_Code=1H-Parts-Gaskets-Crystal-Rolex&Product_Code
  2. I'm going to purchase a jk factory 1665 for an upcoming build. My question is there any mods that need to be done to fit 26.5mm dials? I'm thinking I will get a dial from Minh and don't really want to have to make major changes to it or the case if I don't have to. Also is there a TD that anyone recommends over the others? I've been in contact with Mary, Toro, and Sead. They all seem about the same price and all claim they can get the JK Factory 1665.
  3. Hi, Do you guys know where I can buy a decent 1665 rolex insert? I saw that pmwf inserts were no more available. I saw the yuki one http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/9020785/10270361.htm and the Phong http://www.jewelryandwatch.com/contents/en-us/d242_Insert_Bezel.html what do you think of these ones and do you know better 1665 insert on the market?(except gen ones of course) thank you for your help.
  4. Hey all !!! Today I want to introduce my last mod, a Rolex 5512 marked as Serpico Y Laino. (For those who do not know who was Serpico & Laino, you will read: http://www.rolexencyclopedie.nl/english/models/212/). A few months ago I found here in the forum (of a very nice member) the following Dial with damaged lume on two. Have it repaired! And I started to build: Cartel Case completely Revised and modified as "Square Crown Guards". As Movement I decided for an ETA 2451 with 18.000 A/h, just like the Rolex caliber 1530, it carries out this model in his time. Yuki faded Insert. Gilded hands of Tiger-concept. I hope you liked it my presentation
  5. Wanted to know if any of you fellow members have purchased the seemingly impossible to find new 2016 Daytona. I have seen the ones the TD offer. Even msged back and fourth with a few of them. To my knowledge one factory is better than the other but at the end of the day it may be personal preference. Has anyone gotten a rep of the new 2016 Daytona? If so what are you're thoughts?
  6. Recently I purchased 6202(from local market), 1680(intime), 1675(local market). Those 3 stunning watch all had been vintatage finished. 6202:sanded and faded,dot patina,dirt hand. 1680:sanded and faded to gray,yellow patina, grey with bit pink hand. 1675:faded,nipple yellow patina, dirt hand. Thank you for watching and give me some advice to make it much more better. Lost phone after 1680 vintage built.So there is some random picture of afterfinish.
  7. I recently started getting into vintage Rolex watches. Specifically the Paul Newman watch. Every time I travel to a different city I go to vintage watch stores to check out what they have. Most of you know that the vintage rolex watches are crazy expensive. Having said that how difficult is it to build a new perfect vintage Paul Newman Rolex? I know there are a few different color options and of out of those which is the coveted among the Paul Newmans? I have a few genuine rolex watches and just now have done more and more research on forums like this. I dont think I will ever buy a genuine watch again given that several websites have great replicas. I would rather pay a couple hundred dollars than $8,000+. Let me know what you guys think and if any of you members has any vintage Paul Newmans youre looking to get rid of I would be interested. Thanks.
  8. Brand New to the forums and so excited to be here. I have been reading through a lot of different topics and getting acquainted with the lingo and members. I can't believe this community is so tight knit and you all share of love for the perfect replica. I'm still working on getting my hands on a great Rolex watch at the prices listed on here. It's so thrilling to share my thoughts and experiences in South Florida with you all. I can't wait to meet more of you and become a notable member here. Please stop by and introduce yourself and show the noob some love. Can't wait to get on my replica game like all of you!
  9. Hi there fellow collectors and watch lovers! Thank you for the chance to be a part of this great community!!! Collecting vintage watches and reps since ever. So I really remember the times when I bought my first reps in the 90s ... oh my, compared to todays great pieces I can say, they really changed a LOT for the better :-) My favourite brands are AP, PP & Rolex Especially vintage style reps and modded reps with a special creative touch I like a lot. Hope to get more inspiration, ideas and knowlege here in future to work more on my planned rep mod projects. (hope to have also enough time off my job for that ....:-) Have a great time! Elias
  10. Hi I'm a new one here in this forum. I bought a Rolex Daytona 116520. Here are the pictures of the Quality check. What do you think? I noticed the difference in color of the hands. This might only b reflection. I'm waiting for another picture. What do you think in general? thank you for your help
  11. Another amazing watch hidden away surfaces. This 5517 came up on the Antiques Roadshow a while back, it was valued on the show at £40k and later sold at Bonhams for £120k. The original second hand was swapped at some stage, which wasn't mentioned in the appraisal (starts at 43.30): https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/22790/lot/129/
  12. Hi here are the quality check pix of my Rolex 116613 LN. What do you think? For me everything seems to be fine. Please help yours Felix
  13. So, I've started to collect the parts for my 1655 "Freccione", so far I have: Gen Service Dial, Gen Service Hands, Gen MK IV bezel, Gen 1575 GMT movement. Gen old style NOS Tropic 116 Still on the shopping list: Phong's 1655 Mid case + case back Gen 6mm winding crown + tube Gen Bracelet, either 78360, 62510H, 93510 (I'm still deciding although I'm leaning toward the "D link" jubilee) I need to know which 6mm winding crown should I buy. I know that the1655 uses a men's Datejust 6mm crown as opposed to the 1675 5.3mm crown. Has anyone got the correct Rolex part number for the crown + tube? thank you Max
  14. I purchased a Rolex datejust from a trusted dealer. Beautiful watch. Very happy with how it looks. (It's the larger of the two datejust sizes; I can't remember which movement t it has, but I paid about $250 a year ago. However if I wind the watch up in the morning, it lasts less than 24 hours. Typically it will stop at night (when there isn't any movement on my wrist). The next morning I need to reset the time and wind it up again. (I've had the watch for a year now, but this has been happening since day 1) Is this normal? How long should I expect the watch to 'last' without having to rewind it? Thanks for your input.
  15. Hi Gents ! For those of you interested in 50'Subs and their evolution, here are few shots borrowed from P. STAHL Instagram, about one of his recent acquisition : a beautiful military version of our beloved Ref. 6538. Take a look to that bezel, "prototype-lly" made to be even easier turning around in deep water missions for the MOD divers. Big crown, "german silver" Bezel and Red Depth dial... Cheers!
  16. My goal was to build a 5513 that aged like it's seen the world. It's not about beating-up a watch, but making it believable that it is 50+ years old. I guess I'd call it "giving the watch it's character". It's the little details that make the difference on your wrist! I absolutely love the way the dial, hands & case turned out on this one. The dial in particular is absolutely gorgeous and the way the GILT Rolex letters reflect the light alter certain angles is unmatched by any cheap printed dial. There's a reason why a GILT dial alone on a gen Rolex adds about 30.000$ to it's price. Doing these build properly takes a lot of time, I often start work on a watch and then abandon it for weeks until I have an eureka moment about something I could do to get the look that I want on the dial, hands, case, and so on. I also lost count on how many hand-sets, bezel inserts and dials I wasted due to experimenting (so don't feel bad if you ended up damaging parts while trying something new :)). What I used: CASE: 5513 from Sead BEZEL: Phong Fat Font Insert BRACELET: Yuki 7206 Folded Bracelet MOVEMENT: Replaced w/ a low-beat 2813 DIAL: Tropical GILT dial from Vietnam HANDS: Clark's GILT Mercedes Hands CRYSTAL: Michael Young (CWP) Tropic 19 CROWN/TUBE: Athaya 700 What I did: CASE: The stock case was too round for my taste and the stock lugs slightly too thick, so I completely reshaped the case from all sides and angles (including the lugs from top, bottom & side). I re-defined & polished the bevels/chamfers several times to make them look like they would look on a watch that has been polished (but not extremely over-polished) the years. Crown guards were trimmed on the inside and re-shaped from the outside. After getting the case in the correct shape, I aged it & polished it several times over and over to give it character. Last but not least, I drilled the tube hold, tapped new threads and drilled a cut a countersink to install the 700 tube properly (without the countersink, the tube and as a result the crown will stick out too far and look hideous). DIAL: I aged the lume of the gilt dial & gave it a nice patina as I'd expect it on a watch that has gone so tropical. I also aged the dial itself a little to give it some patina that goes well with the tropical turned brown color - not full-blown radium dust like I did on another build recently (since this represents a tritium watch), but a little to make it believable that there was some radioactive substance, sun-light and other corroding factors present. HANDS: I used several steps involving different mixtures made of various minerals & chemicals and even soft-drinks to get this look that resembled old gilt tritium hands. BRACELET: The 7206 bracelet from Yuki looked like it was brand new, especially the inside of the bracelet (which was brushed) bugged me, since I own a few genuine folded rolex bracelets and a bracelet this old shouldn't be brushed on the inside anymore - even if has been restored at some point. I aged & polished the inside of the Yuki bracelet to mimic the look of my well-taken-care-off gen folded bracelets. BEZEL: It's a phong fat font insert that was aged, browned, re-coated and pressure-fit into the the bezel ring. - Note about my Vintage Builds: I often receive PMs from members asking me if I could build a specific watch for them, but I declined all of these requests for the reason I mentioned earlier - doing these vintage builds properly takes time and passion for the work. I don't think you can do this on a "contract basis". I end up selling many of my watches, but even if I start building something with the intention of selling it later-on, I build each one of them as if I'd build them for myself. So if you like some of the watches I build so much that you want one, I appreciate the trust and I'm definitely flattered, but I'd ask you to not PM me and ask me to build a specific watch for you. I'll put up whatever I decide to sell in the Sales Section. Eye-candy:
  17. The second just stopped. Crown, hands and date are all smooth. Rotor spins quietly as well. No amount of winding and case tapping revive it. What are my options to repair or swap out the movement? This is a v6s hulk.
  18. Hi Gents, When I first got myself in the RepWorld, it was mainly related to early Bond Movies: I was looking for - as many of us - to replicate Connery/Broccoli famous wristwatch. From that time, my taste evolved and I ended with one 6200 and one 6538. But that's not the point here. Here are two detailed screenshots I took from Goldfinger and Thunderball BR-rip, we all know about: From what I can see, this is not - as some of us use to believe - a Gilt Dial & Hand Set but rather a Service Dial (white and printed) and a Silver Hand Set. Is that it, or am I missing something here ? That would be the question I'm asking you, as I never really find a good answer/explanation to that... question
  19. Just wanted to fire up a thread on a 6541 Milgauss build as I get started with it and progress through it. Wanted to share some initial QC pics of the dial and case, etc. Literally all the components of the build is en route to me and needed parts start showing up first thing next week... (Some inspiration for the build:) Dammit Slay... A genuine 6541 Milgauss is an extremely rare bird indeed with auction estimated well into the six figures if and when they even do pop up on the auction block. Accordingly, a 6541 build of your own can get EXTREMELY expensive. Maybe not a quarter mil like a gen, but still... There are few case options out there for vintage Milgauss builds and what is out there is pricey. More with this build than some others perhaps, but the case, as much as the dial, makes or breaks this project. The case is especially important because of the unique internal construction of its Farraday cage shielding the movement from potentially harmful magnetic fields. Aside from the frankly terrible budget (Cartel?) out-of-the-box versions of the 6541 that are floating around, you're left with what appears to be pretty much just two (albeit two very good) case set options: Phong or MQ. And if you've ever looked into the case prices of either, you start to understand why so few people endeavor upon these builds - Minh Q's case comes in at around $1250 and Phong's around $1800(!) iirc. So before you even start looking for dials you're already in the hole for over a grover. Damn... Now, I'm not one to skimp on my builds, but this was already staring to look like a money pit even if this is essentially a mid-shelf "budget" version of a Milgauss build LOL. So I put the idea of the build on the back burner for a while and turned my attention back to the gen-dialed 1016 build I'm working on. That is until I saw Slay's sales post with his absolutely STUNNING 6541 franken build. Slay spared no expense, MQ case and dial, gen 1030 movement, gen hands, the works... My jaw hit the ground. It was damn near perfect and now I had to build one. So I re-started my search and began weighing my case and dial options in earnest once again. Dial As luck would have it, a "new" guy had popped up on Instagram about 6 months ago peddling high end rep dials and a few cases, Tonnywatches. I started following him and was pretty impressed with the quality of the dials he was posting; "Vietnam" dials that were, to my eye anyways, on par with or very close in quality (maybe even the same?) to the dials Minh Q offers (some of the better aftermarket dials for many builds imho), but at less than half the price in some instances. I'm always weary of new sellers (who isn't, right?) but his 6541 dial looked an awful lot like MQ's and it cost about 40% of what the MQ dial costs so I said what the hell and pulled the trigger and purchased one. Looks pretty good to me; the coroner is so-so, but I have a gen white gold dial coronet to replace that one, and I'm might give those lume plots a very understated aging/re-lume. Love the fade on the reddish-pink Milgauss text and the SCOC printing/spacing looks pretty good compared to reference photos of gen dials. Certainly not "perfect" in any sense of the word, but pretty good all things considered and again looks almost identical to the $750 MQ dial. The printing is a little heavy handed and they didn't get the "crippled" R in Perpetual right amongst other minute details, but you really can't beat it for the price. Hands Only one really strong option imho for the 6541's characteristic thunderbolt seconds hand and that's Michael Young at CWP. Looks great and it's long enough to extend into the dial's minute track as per gen. The hour and minute hands, however, are the leaf-shaped hand type with the lume and I want to fit a set of the no lume all-metal "leaf" hands that were also fitted to the 6541. Luckily for me, Offrei offers the near-exact same style hands in an array of sizes and fit for ETA so they'll be compatible with my movement choice and I can get the lengths just right (like a 12.5-13mm minute hand extending into the track like the seconds hand). I'm going to remove the red paint from the thunderbolt tip and age the hands with some sulfur, acids, and some light abrasives. The below reference photo of a gen shows the style, length and aging of the hands I'm going for: Since I'm using an ETA movement (more on that in a minute) I won't have to broach the hands either (which I have an atrocious track record with). Might have been the easiest sourcing yet: a quick email exchange with Michael, payment sent and hands on their way in a matter of days. Ordered a spattering of differently sized and shaped leaf hands from Offrei. They were so cheap I was able to buy enough that I'll be able to make sure I get the aged look correct and possibly file down a larger sizes minute hand to match the length of the CWP thunderbolt. Case When I was going back and forth with Tonny about the dial, I happened to dig a little bit deeper into his Instagram and saw that he actually had a 6541 case set he was offering mixed in amongst the photos of his various small crown, big crown, etc. cases. It looked pretty good in the photo he posted and I already had some experience with one of his 5508 case sets that I had purchased for a friend of mine, so I knew the quality was pretty good and that, generally speaking, his cases were pretty gen-spec. For sure, some modifications would have to be done (lug bevels need some tlc for instance), but again the price was right especially considering the case construction had the correct Farraday cage that is central to getting this build right. All said, case set and dial would cost me less than half of what just a Phong case set would've cost me. So again, I pulled the trigger and asked Tonny for some quick QC pics before making my purchase: (Photo from Tonnywatches Instagram:) (QC photos:) You get the idea... Pretty good if you ask me, but still much work to be done. The dial/cage construction is correct and I'm comfortable re-doing the perlage on the Farraday cage back. The only thing not pictures (which is, in fact, included with the case) is the cross-shaped metal tension "spring" that seats into the inside of the case back and keeps the cage snugly sandwiched together around the movement protecting it from magnetic field variations (well, in theory anyways haha). Other than that, I'll weigh my options on having the mid case re-shaped/thinned and maybe re-do the lug bevels. Should make a good base though for sure... Bezel, Insert, Crown, etc. Some of the finer details of the case set have yet to be seen since I'm still waiting on it to show up from Tonny, but there are some modifications that are inevitable: Gen crown is an easy one,; already have a few various 6mm gen crowns in the parts drawer and a gen 602 tube which are way less problematic than installing a 600 tube which would have been "more" correct for a 6541. No question, a 602 would've been installed during a service however, and requires no broaching/modification prior to install. I picked up a gen T-16 beveled service crystal, and as luck would have it, also happen to have an aftermarket domed T-16 from Phong sitting gathering dust. I love the look of the Milgauss with its domed crystal, but much prefer the practicality of the lower-profile beveled service so it'll be nice to have both should I ever decide to switch between one or the other. The insert that comes with the Tonny case is suspect and I had already acquired a Phong 6541 insert before I got the case, so I'm going to give the Tonny insert some heavy aging for a more worn-in/beat up look for the watch should I ever want it. The Phong insert is pretty spot on; the only thing I might do to it is bleach out the red triangle a little bit and give it a good fade. The bezel ring looks pretty suspect in the QC pictures as well, but I'll have to wait to have it in hand before I can see if it's up to snuff with the shape of the coin edge or if I'll be able to properly age it to give it an older, polished worn-in look. Tonny assured me its plates brass so I'll be able to sand/age/tarnish/polish the bezel and take it down to the brass in what I feel is a more appropriate look for a half-century old watch. If the bezel construction or shape isn't good enough however, I'll just buy one from MQ as I feel his is just a tiny bit better than the one Phong offers and both are pretty solid stand-ins for the genuine article. Yet again neither option is cheap (see a theme developing here?), so I'm hoping the Tonny bezel passes muster. The case should be here in a week so I'll know for certain then. The engravings also look a little iffy in the QC photos, and if they're too are not good enough then hopefully I can send the mid and back to JMB to be re-done. Plenty of bracelet options as I've got both an NDT and Yuki 7206 waiting in the wings and picked up this really nice NOS StyleCraft 20mm tropic rubber strap that I think will look good on either my 1016 or the 6541 for a more subdued look that's still somewhat substantial and fitting for the era of the watch to a certain degree: Movement As you can see, I've already got a decent amount invested into this build, and as nice as it might be to put a cal. 1030 into a build like this, it just doesn't seem all that practical to me because: a) the Farraday cage covers the movement so you don't see it, b ) sourcing parts and servicing a 1030 movement is becoming increasingly difficult and cost prohibitive, and c) I plan on wearing this watch. A lot. And the ETA 2782 I'm using is far more rough & tumble-ready than the 1030. I found a brand new NOS watch with a 2782 that had been sitting untouched and unused in storage for the last few decades. It's in really great shape, and after a good cleaning and oiling, will run like a dream. The 2782 has a nice low beat rate, good stem height, good canon pinion height, and the same Kif shock absorbers Rolex would later use in its 1500-series movements so it should be able to handle a fair amount of wear and tear. I got a Yuki 1030 ETA movement ring to make it fit in the case correctly, and one of the only internal modifications I'll need to do is notch out the middle ring of the Farraday cage so the movement clamps can seat the movement in the case properly. The Farraday cage is 3 parts: the interior case back, the middle ring section with a small opening for the winding stem, and the dial (the bottom side of which "completes" the cage by capping over the movement and lining up flush with the middle ring section. Like the Phong dial and cage, the dial has no feet so as long as I can get the cage pieces to line up properly and get the movement with the Yuki adapter seated firmly in the cage install should be relatively painless. All things considered, once I have all the pieces in front of me the assembly will go rather quickly hopefully. I'll update this thread as o go along with each part of the build so hopefully I can glean some insight from others and maybe be the "guinea pig" with one of these Tonny cases (and dial for that matter). Stay tuned...
  20. Hey all, I'm exploring a Big Crown build. This will be a first. I understand that not all movements fit into the case properly, and therefore you either need the right movement or the proper adapter. That said, when exploring Yuki's store, I saw that the dials said " 6538 Dial adapted for ETA " I noticed this dial was 28mm vs 27 mm on the standard dial for the case. My question is....what does the dial have to do with the movement? Also, if the case is a certain size...how can a bigger dial work? Anyway, I'm sure this question shows my ignorance. Can anyone explain whether the dial matters vs movement? why? Thank you all for your watch wisdom.
  21. As I type this, Aurel Bacs and his merry men are wrapping up their weekend of auctions in Geneva, and most likely patting themselves on the back for a "job well done". At least, in their eyes anyways. (100% sales totaling over $25M on the first day alone. Sheesh...) Saturday's chrono-only "Start. Stop. Reset" auction produced some seriously crazy numbers, watches hammering at prices never seen before: a mere FIVE Daytons hammered in for a total north of $7.5 MILLION. That's right, millions. For five watches. In fact, only one vintage Daytona on the block hammered for less than six figures yesterday, so it doesn't seem like the Daytona bubble is bursting anytime soon. There's was the Paul Newman "Sotto" coming in at right under $2M: Or the (gorgeous) 6239 "Medical" and its silver dial with blue Pulsations scale: Or the star of yesterday's auction, a Rolex Split Seconds chronograph from the 40's, realizing almost $2.5M: Make no mistake, these are stunning, amazing timepieces, but the prices at auction are getting to the point of being almost laughably outrageous, even to the uber-rich collectors to whom these auctions cater to. To wit, a 5500 Explorer hammered in this morning's second auction for over $20K: Sheesh. I might need to take my Explorer 5500 build a little more seriously I guess hahahaha... To be fair, I think Phillips didn't disappoint with some of its more interesting finds, both Rolex and a plethora of lesser-known (yet still amazing) chronos from the 40's, 50's, and 60's (It's totally worth it to download the Phillips app and look through the hi-res catalog pictures of all the lots. They did an outstanding job photographing the auction, no question). For Rolex, there were some lesser-seen rarities like a gold cased 6238, a rarely seen (and mint!) all gold 6542 GMT with its dauphine hands and salmon-hued dial (just look at that coin edge bezel and all-red Bakelite insert too!) and a two-tone 1675 with the sharpest insert I've ever seen: Lest we forget the black dial triple calendar Moonphase 8171 'Stelline' that's sure to break the million dollar mark later today as well: Personally though, and as much as I love vintage Tudor and Rolex sports models, my absolute favorite of the weekend was neither Rolex nor Tudor (although I was salivating over the Tudor Home Plate that sold on Saturday. Be still my heart...). It was an absolutely STUNNING Longines fly-back chrono that hammered in at a "humble" (LOL) $75K: Amazing, right? Bears a striking resemblance to the Patek that sold for TEN TIMES that amount a few lots later too, doesn't it? Hmmm... (I know I'm late to the party, but it might be high time to start looking at collecting Longines haha...) And the bonus awesome lot from today for me was one of the coolest Patek Calatravas maybe ever. A possible "piece unique" with a 3-6-9 "Explorer" dial. Classy. And a steal at the estimated $120-180K! I just think this thing is so, so cool: I'd be curious to see what others here thought about this weekend's auctions. In my humble opinion, it was a surprisingly strong showing considering the economic climate in the certain parts of the world right now; because of my day job, I know the rare wine market at least has taken a massive hit lately due to the economic downturn in China and the barrel price of crude in the Middle East, so it's very interesting to see million-dollar Daytonas literally fly off the block and 100% sale results from the likes of Phillips (it's looking like only 2-3% of the lots will have hammered for below pre-sale estimate) and their mega-auctions, with no signs of depreciation or slowing sales on the horizon either it seems. I wonder, how many of us here on the forums may be looking at the V72-powered Phong 6263s and 6239s in a very different light after this weekend...
  22. Hi all, I am after the white/grey dial YM and need some advise. I see a lot of reviews about the following: 1. TC YM 2. Sean 3. BK Which one is the best? Its all very confusing. I have done my research but still dont have the answers. TC perhaps has the most good reviews but then there is the issue of long waiting time. Please give me one option and how to buy it. Also where is BK's website? Thanks much in advance. John
  23. New Submariners from the noob maker v6s Completely new construction case, new bracelet, this time focusing more on the details. Dial painting remains same. 1 Updated bezel engravement, much better than the v6, the color was too dark silver, now is more light 2 The pearl on the bezel is thinner than on the v6, much more closer to the gen 3 Bracelet SEL fitting better than V6, before the was a tiny space, not a perfect fit like now 4 Clasp LOGO much more better 5 Case parts now can fit gen bezel, for SA3135 version can fit gen movement, and dial too bezel pearl crystal has more angle and fit in more thinner steel ring. For the GREEN one there is a new dial with SUM finishing 6 Bezel pearl crystal has more angle and fit in more thinner steel ring 8 Rehaut is more all aligner, closer to perfection and more deeply engraved , also correct font match same as the gen 9 Inside the LUG all markers are engraved same as the gen, not by laser as before. 10 SA3135 is amazing, all correct position adjusting time and date works smooth Watches will be available for shipping shortly after the chinese new year holidays
  24. I'm considering Trusty's vintage Milgauss ref 1019. I've been researching by looking online at Gens. Its no easy task, however. For one, it seems like there are multiple dials. Same silver dial and colors but different font widths and sizes. In addition, Trusty's Quality shots seem to have different font sizes than the website posting. You all have more experience and a more trained eye. What are your thoughts on this rep vs the gen? http://imgur.com/a/76e9a http://www.ttw8488.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_103&products_id=623
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